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Panic over. When I removed the cabin filter there was a layer of "compost" on the filter which consisted of leaves and laburnum pods. I still find it hard to believe that a strong chemical smell could have come from the rotting debris but with a new filter all is good. Thanks to all for advice and exploding diagrams.

Haven't experienced any clutch slip in mine - although mine was bought new - so perhaps you need to be a bit wary.

I found when piggybacking the fuse for the 12v socket the fuse stays live all the time even if the 12v socket only comes on with the ignition/auxiliary mode. In the end I used the fuse for the seat heater even if my car hasn’t got heated seats.

Access is via www.toyota-tech.eu and can be purchased by the hour for a few Euros the info can then be saved/downloaded

Yes, it has a timing chain. One of the reasons I bought one. When you test drive it, you may be concerned that the clutch bite is quite high. Rest assured that the bite is high on all gearstick shift Aygos. Check the boot for any signs of water ingress into that area. I believe some Aygos of that era can leak elsewhere, but I can't remember exactly where. Maybe another member can help out here. Oil level can be a pain to check, especially if the engine has been running recently. Take some kitchen roll along to wipe the dipstick, as you may have to check and dip a few times before you get a satisfactory reading. Also, I've found the steering to be a bit sticky around the straight ahead position. It's the same on two Aygos in the family, so think it's an Aygo character. Obviously, if the steering doesn't return at all to centre after a turn, then be wary.

Tyre cracks are common on older tyres, it is a natural drying out process of the rubber compound, chemical and ozone damage can also affect them however if you have cracks on the sidewall it is time to change your tyres. Whilst in the UK the legal limit is 1.6mm, the tyre becomes far less effective below 3mm, so it is probably time to think about changing your tyres, especially if you can see anything untoward on the sidewall Kingo

I cannot answer from experience having not used a piggy back fuse, have a look at this link I found within a minute of reading your problem - https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/piggy-back-fuseholders-a-right-way-and-a-wrong-way.7524/ I would use a multimeter to check the current and resistance across both fuses. I would remove the fuses from the piggyback holder and measure what the current is doing, across the terminals. There is a possibility that the piggyback fuse holder is faulty and not connecting the cigar lighter, only the dashcam. That is why the cigar light works when the piggyback is removed. Hopefully the link above will help you.

Seems a good price: https://carvaluation.confused.com/valuation/7b10a903-b638-49bf-973f-4b8b6329e796 Obviously take a good look round, check paperwork and test drive the car first. If you like it, go for it 😉

If it’s for use as an Irish taxi , if the tinted side window (excluding quarter panel) have a V stamped on it it won’t pass the test, both the rear door glass panels (each side) need to be replaced , mine cost €220 in main dealer just over two years ago. Pic not of avensis but shows the position of the V

Does the aircon still get cold? A smell inside the car when running the aircon is more likely to be bacteria inside the heater/aircon ductwork than leaking refrigerant. The amount of refrigerant inside the system is relatively small and it is continually under pressure so even a tiny pinhole leak will totally empty the system in a matter of hours without using the aircon, rather like a punctured tyre going flat overnight. If the smell is an ongoing problem, and the aircon still works, then it's probably not refrigerant.