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It's not the dreadful MMT then. If it's the same style of box as fitted to the Avensis of similar age then it's pretty bulletproof. My 2005 one had 4 gears too but the box also 'locked up' at about 52mph giving the equivalent of a 5th gear. However, above 52mph 4th gear is not available, therefore you either have a gutless feeling 5th gear, or a very high revving 3rd gear.

The oil consumption issue was fixed on production models from July 2005. Some built prior to July were fixed under warranty.

Hi, Yes, the 1.6 has a timing Chain, and 2005 probably is post the oil burning problem. Nothing special from any other older car, though some of the earlier ones do have problems with the heater matrix blocking, so check the heater and air con both work ok Looks good and clean tarted up for sale, but no pics of inside the boot or engine ? Unusually low mileage for 4 owners, so check the online . gov mot mileage history / advisories and HPI of course. You really need to see if first hand and test drive it. Plenty of power in the 1.6 and I get 40mpg mixed.

Thanks for replies. I suspect these are pretty old tyres. Sidewalls look fine just the cracks between the treads. I have them booked in to be replaced tomorrow. I would have left it a while for just pottering about locally but motorway journeys need more certainty with the tyres.

Each of our cars have had air conditioning since 1998 - ranging in engine size from 1.0 litre to 1.8. With the first, a 1.3 Corolla GS, there was a noticeable performance effect when turning the air con, but as air con has become more efficient, the effects have been greatly reduced. With the Aygo we have the air con on all the time, and there is a slight effect when the air con and fan are working to capacity to cool the car down after it has parked for a while and the inside temperature has built up. Once this initial cooling has brought the temperature down any effect is far less noticeable.

A lot of people do not realise that the Aygo does not have a self adjusting clutch, so when the clutch gets high they get a new one fitted rather than manually adjust the cable.. it (takes all of 2 mins to adjust as well)

Following on from Konrad's post. If you have a multimeter with a continuity function and with the piggy back out of the fusebox, check the two blades on the piggyback which fit into the fuseholder. Obviously with the fuse in place. That will confirm whether or not the current will flow from blade to blade. Or even try a different piggy back, they are very inexpensive. It will still work whichever way round it is fitted in the fusebox but should be fitted the correct, in link from Konrad, way to maintain the protection of the acc. socket fuse.

Assuming it's the same as the original PiP (which I only drove for a day), the HV battery gauge stays like that while it has enough charge to work as a 'proper' EV. Once it gets to the point it can only work as a Hybrid, that battery changes to the 8 bars we're used to (unless you'd only drive Gen 1 Prius, which had 4 bars). Although the PiP only has one (larger) HV battery, the software treats it as if there is one for HV operation and another for EV. I believe (from what some owners have written) if you go down a long hill just after the level drops below the threshold, enough regen can put it back into the EV range and the gauge briefly switches back to the solid display. I'm surprised by your comments on the HUD, as all the Gen 3 & 4 Prius I've driven with HUD have been perfectly clear, and I think a major safety aid. Maybe that one had a poorly positioned windscreen. My original (2000) Yaris had digital instruments in the centre of the dash, as has every Prius (all 4 Gens) I've driven since, and personally I like it. The rationale is that the closer the instruments the more eye muscle needed to refocus between distant and dash. It is said to reduce fatigue on longer journeys and I believe it based on the 300,000+ miles in such cars over the last 18 years. Apparently, as your focus gets closer the extra work the eye has to do increases more significantly, so moving the focus from about ½ metre to 1 metre reduces the eye effort more than you might think. I find the radar cruise control helps no end keeping within speed limits, and for 20 zones I switch to the speed limiter, which quickly becomes instinctive and is very effective.