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I doubt that can be fixed without repainting. My advice is to check the wreckers for used wing, and hinge. Should be much cheaper then having it fixed. You can do the replacement yourself, bumper removal is needed, after that the wing unbolts. One weekend afternoon should be plenty of time if you take it slow. Even if you take it to someone to replace the parts for you, should be quicker, faster, and cheaper.

You should pop along to a specialist Motability centre, somebody who deals with specialist adaptions. They will be able to advise of what is possible. I would not entertain doing anything DIY as you will have serious insurance issues if you carry out an unsafe DIY job if it went horribly wrong, take advice from some experts

Hi, I replaced my driverside wing recently, not too difficult, just a couple of notes, spray the bottom bold with some penetrating oil, mine rusted inside, head twisted right off. Also, you may have to remove the wipers and the plastic cowal to get to the top bolt otherwise you'll strugle like me....when I realise it was too late. Got mines from ebay, £37 delivered, just look for your colour code. Hope that helps.

Ditto. Mine is stored in the garage.

By wing, i meant the panel which is bent, the one that goes from your car door, to the front of the car. It should be easy to replace, if you wish to do so, and can probably find it in color, with a bit of effort. Check drivers door for a sticker, it should have the color code. I do not advise to leave it like that, because winter is coming, snow, water and dirt will just get piled inside of there, at least get a replacement panel in any color. As for the door hinge, do you see that small hole ? They are made like that so they would fail, i think on the inside of the car there would be some kind of pin or similar, stopping the door from opening all the way. By the looks of it, you would need to have the door cover removed to be able to fix that, but it should be a simple fix. Sorry, i do not know any wreckers in your area, i do not live in UK. Good luck with fixing it.

I've been playing with EV City over the last couple of days and it does seem to affect the throttle sensitivity. I find EV mode is much more sensitive than HV mode, whereas EV City isn't such a jarring change when you switch.

That's not a daft reason - that's a wonderful reason! 🙂

Here is a link to where I purchased fitted rubber mats for my Prius Gen3 (£20), then for my Gen4 (£25) and the wifes 2010 Auris (£20. The difference being in price I can pnly put down to the fact the Gen4 has a double thickness stitched in where the driver heel goes. The backing is non-slip. and I think I read the thickness as 3mm (1/8th inch. These were 3 piece sets, driver, passenger, and one piece rear. They are a very snug fit, obviously tailored for the car. Prices included p&p. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Prius-3-x-Piece-2016-2018-Fully-Tailored-RUBBER-Car-Mats-in-Black/253503444344?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Here are a couple photos of the set in my Prius Gen4.

I love the adaptive cruise control and use it on all sorts of roads, and have learned to live with the limitations, dabbing the throttle if something is turning off in front (or when approaching a slower vehicle I'm about to overtake) and flicking the lever to cancel it when wanting gentle engine braking before a junction, roundabout, queue or whatever, then using resume. I like the fact that on resume it accelerates very gently in ECO mode (although if a car in front is accelerating it seems to use slightly more power to try to keep up), reasonably briskly in Normal mode and very rapidly in PWR mode. On a bendy road I will steer slightly differently (while still aiming for maximum safe positioning) to try to keep the car in front in the CC's sights, but as I'm nearly always in ECO mode the very slightly momentary acceleration if it loses its 'lock' on the car in front doesn't usually matter for the second or two before it reacquires the 'target'.