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Just being charitable

Laser light pen, that sounds so 80s I'm using a state of the art Galaxy Note 5 pen for those class effects. Am glad to hear it's solid though, the amount of heartbreak I have felt over a car going to that great breaker in the sky because the rot starts like always in the rear arches and blazes out of control, by the time you see it it's got its claws in too deep. I'm glad to say I've eradicated all corrosion in my outer sill and the Avensis lives to fight on some more [emoji38] [emoji38] Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

That sounds really nice, I bet everyone loved that.

Yep! Crazy. Also means if sitting in Ready mode in a car park, garage etc. the lights will come on if the car thinks it's dull enough. One could switch on parking/side lights manually, but if driving these aren't as good as DRLs unless it's pretty dark, in which case headlights are better anyway. Also happens in Ignition mode - all warning lights on but Hybrid system off, so running off 12V battery only so not a good idea to use this unless it's bright enough not to bring the lights on. Why would Toyota make 2 different lights switches, but with only the one with no Off position available in the UK (and presumably some other markets)?

I made my 'before' video, of the exhaust pipe sounds, this morning at Tesco. Hope the New Version isn't too.... ...... LoLzzzz 😵 2sav

Ok, it's all fixed! It was clearly the relay that had failed, despite the garage telling me the motor needed replacing. As this thread is now showing up on a Google search for Auris wiper relay, I should probably just outline how to fix it here for anybody running into the same thing. The part you need is a relay 85940 02040 and it looks like this: Should be around £15 from a breaker, obviously a lot more new. Mine was from ebay and is a genuine Toyota part. It took a while to work out where it was on a RHD car (as most schematics are for the LHD version), although it turns out the position is similar in both cases. It's behind the lower right panel below the steering wheel, where the mirror controls and headlight levelling dial is. This just pulls off very easily: In this photo you can also just about see the double-locking door relay (which is blue) in case you ever need to get to that. Anyway, the windscreen wiper relay is dead centre once you have this panel off: Really easy to access, just one bolt and out it comes. Swap the wires and that's it. One of the easiest repairs it's possible to do on a car like this. Took about 5 minutes and cost £15. A bit better than paying a garage over £175 to muck about with the motor (or they'd probably just change the relay and then charge me the same anyway). The wipers now park correctly, auto rain sensor works, wash/wipe works - all good. Thanks to everybody for their advice, and particularly the link to PartSouq which is where I started. For anybody having trouble locating the RHD relay locations guide, here it is:

I can see clearly now, the rest of the pipe has gone... This clamp will grip the lip and allow the hanger/bobbin to be attached. This cobble-up is made possible because the original layout includes a sleeve [cut off & here reused for the butt joint of the up curve] 2sav

Gahh... The curse of the Laser Light Pen ho ho.. Nope 'brick outhouse solid'.... As this is painted with a semi gloss grey [Lidl] not matching factory metallic bloo.... It Looks $H.ITTY Solid ftw 2sav

I would go with Yuasa batteries as well they are very reliable and have a good guarantee. What i would do is go on the YUASA UK website and put your car details in then see which battery model number fits your car then go to eBay put your battery number in and get the lowest price. Good luck

I had mine replaced last year by Halfords, Yuasa Silver 5yr. 85ah 800a. same size,just! been fine since ( 2.2 T180 spirit )

Have you tested the battery? I don't know what the lower CCA limit for your car is but I don't think you would notice a drop of 20. I don't think you should stray too far off, however. If you have the auto start/stop function, you should get a battery that is designed for this. I've personally only had good experiences with Toyota batteries but I put a Varta Silver battery in my old T22 back in 2012, which I moved over to my current T25. Seems quite solid, and I can run the stereo with the engine off for quite some time. At the end of the day, I guess it all depends on what you use your battery for. If you're just using your car in a normal way, I think any battery approximately matching the original specs would do. If you tax the battery a lot, an AGM battery might be worth the investment. Remember to buy the correct battery size (short code, I think it's called). <-- That's apparently just a Varta thing, look for the correct measurements.

Just to update on the topic fan finally kicked in by itself just as the gauge was under half way checked sensor all good it’s seemed to be a while before the engine really heats up to trip the fan on cheers

Cheers just wanted to check when I disconnect coolant temp sensor fans kick in and temp gauge in dash doesn’t goes to cold when I reconnect fans stop and gauge in car goes back to half way mark just wanted to see if this was normal

The fan should run if you disconnect the wiring on the temperature sensor attached to the radiator. If not then the fan motor could be at fault. As suggested connect the fan wiring directly to the battery to determine the fault. An auto electrician should be able to sort this out in a few minutes.