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When was the last time that it had a service? I know you've said you checked the MAF & O2 sensor but there also other simple things that could potentially cause what you are describing such as a damaged / bad connection on the main earth strap or loose / bad connections on your battery although you should notice this at night as your lights will flicker when you have the loss of power. Could be dirty injectors so a bottle of injector cleaner in a tank of fuel is worth doing anyway. Gunked up spark plugs or faulty coil packs would typically cause a misfire rather than loss of power but it would do no harm to check them.

No, and I have been here for many years and not seen this reported in our cars. Presume it has had a full service including fuel filter and no engine management light then to me, the problem could be a fuel pump issue but replacing random parts will be too expensive. Sadly no mechanic wants to invest in time looking for intermittent issues that they may not be able to locate. The car has a timing chain so will not be a belt issue. Do try and run the car on a full tank of Shell Petrol V-Power for its cleaning properties (very easy to pick up the Diesel V-Power nozzle by mistake!) Good luck, it's a great little car.

That was one of several reasons I decided to simply have my dealer swap the winter/summer tyres onto the original wheels. For a one-off £40 (incl vat) charge, they agreed to store the tyres I'm not using for 'life' (although I didn't bother to explore what 'life' actually meant!). Every March and November, I visit them (sometimes able to coincide with a service or recall) and a have nice breakfast in the hotel next door while they do the swap. That costs me £30 a time, all in - including vat, new valves and balancing. I've bought almost all my tyres from them since I bought my first Prius there in 2002, and found their prices pretty competitive, even once getting a London KwikFit to price match my 25% cheaper dealer when I couldn't get up to Norfolk before they dropped below my self-imposed 3mm limit. I decided that a few tyre swaps was no more harmful to the tyres than a few puncture repairs, and my service manager agreed. Certainly that's proved to be the case so far after four winters since I started using Winter tyres (also handy when I traded my Gen 3 Prius for my Gen 4 the 15" wheels were identical sizes, so I could continue using the same winters).

Geoff, you've raised a very good point about two separate sets of wheels being registered. If you get any info on this please let us know.

The online Gen4 Prius manual pages 544 & 545 in my downloaded copy of the manual covers what you can & can't do regarding the TPMS.

See https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-OEM-Toyota-Avensis-4D-Sedan-Rear-Mud-Flaps-Set-PW3890500000-/222402740177?hash=item33c83c7fd1

Yes, that sums it up well to be fair. Same as the glove box cover, bought one yesterday for it, and it will just make the interior feel a little more complete. If they can sell them so cheap at a dealer, then why not fit them. I guess its whatever the market demanded at the time.

just found this item https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-107-citroen-c1-toyota-aygo-rev-counter-and-cowling/323582929962?hash=item4b570bac2a:g:zrAAAOSw6dhcBur1

On a low traffic run today on the way to school I averaged 42.5 mpg on a 4 mile journey so I was thinking that the low mpg is due to the other times when traffic is usually bad?

Should appear soon on swedish website since Auris has allready been removed.

That structure as said, does not compare to Scandinavian market. We will have 3 models, Active, Style/X and Premium/Executive. Scandinavian cars will come with extra winter options like heated windscreen and heated steering wheel (plus package in Active and Style, included in Premium).

In Finland, pre-sale should start early january so in Sweden, the specs and prices should be available within 2 weeks. In Sweden, the pre-sale is starting about a month earlier than in Finland.

It was actually the other way round for me. My very first charge showed a range of 31 miles but I actually eked out 32. Over a couple of weeks of adjusting my driving to maximise range (which in EV mode simply means going slower) the indicated range crept up and up each day but my actual distance travelled didn't go up by the same amount, putting it in optimistic territory. Then when I started using the heating, my actual distance plummeted whilst the indicated range has only gradually slipped back down. I did that to start with, but then discovered that it only works if the engine has already been fully warmed up by previous running in HV mode (and hasn't subsequently cooled). If the ICE is cold, switching to HV puts it into its initial warm-up cycle, during which the ICE runs but the car is actually propelled entirely by the battery. Depending on the length of the hill, and assuming EV mode will be reinstated at the top, I found I could end up simply wasting petrol on warming the engine whilst still depleting the battery which continued to power the car up the incline! When I'm already running in HV mode after the EV battery's empty, I've actually been experimenting with doing the complete opposite - if I manage to 'earn' a bit of extra EV range from re-gen then I'll 'spend' that to go up a hill, saving me the heavy-throttle petrol usage of getting up there. I'm not sure if this actually improves mpg in reality but it seems to yield some benefit in journey-average mpg as indicated on the MFD.

I would say I’m getting around 25 miles now it’s winter. All down to speed and terrain of course. In my experience nothing kills the range more than hills (well, going up them obviously...) so I tend to toggle back to ICE mode if I see a long hill ahead. I refuse to compromise on heating at this time of year so have it well cranked up. I’m all for great fuel economy and doing my bit for the planet but there is a limit...

Back in September mine had climbed to showing 40 miles (with the heating and a/c off). That was when I was driving with no heating or a/c. That was optimistic, as most days I would see 30-34 miles of actual range. I think the best I ever actually got was 36 miles. Now that I'm using the heating and a/c, it has dropped back down and settled around 31 miles (with heating and A/C on). It is, however, still hopelessly optimistic as my actual range is now 20-25 miles. Cold weather, wet roads and using the heating are not conducive to EV driving!

Not a Hybrid but a Mk1 T-Sport running Mk2 alloys with full blown winter tyres - Continental Winter Contact TS 860's. I commute to Sheffield 3 days a week via the Snake Pass and believe you and me, that road gets battered with snow & ice to the extent that it ends up being closed for 2-3 days at a time at many points over the winter. Last winter I crossed the pass safely many times when other cars were turning around or sliding all over the road due to the sheer amount of grip that these tyres provide - like the brown stuff to a blanket 😉 I put my winter tyres on last weekend after the 1st dump of snow over the Snake pass last week & they will probably stay on until the end of March as they did last year. Had I not lived so close to the Peaks where there is always a lot of snow every winter then I probably wouldn't have bothered with winter tyres.

So just a quick update, I replaced the faulty cell in the pack and I also bit the bullet and ordered the hybridautomotive.com prolong deluxe reconditioning package, not cheap but now I've got it I can recon the battery too my hearts content. The process takes a while as its a cycle of three charges three discharges that can take a while week, the difference is marked.

Thank you for all the replies so far I appreciate them, so I've got the battery out and this is the state of all the terminals, doesn't look good, I'll check voltage tomorrow when my meter gets delivered.