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Thanks to all who contributed to this thread, I contacted Toyota customer relations and within the hour I was contacted by the dealer who ordered and arranged with me a visit to replace the light. I was lucky that when the fault was discovered the car was ten days inside the warranty. LEDs are efficient but why not fit standard LEDs instead of a unit costing £130 to replace.

Main problem with two-door cars, is that the doors are way too big! We had a Fiat500 recently, and even as a "small" car, the doors were huge and heavy. Very difficult opening them on an upward slope as well as in a car park. Four-door cars have smaller and lighter front doors and are dream in comparison. We wouldn't have a two-door car again. Mick.

My handbook recommends 0w20 fully synthetic oil to be used. That’s what I used on my last oil change but it’s not easy to get hold of, can’t buy it anywhere locally so have to buy online and it’s so expensive for engine oil! I do notice that is says 5w30 can be used but it should be changed to 0w20 as soon as possible. Is it that important to use 0w20 and how much difference does it make compared to using 5w30?

The problems you are experiencing you will need to find a good and honest mechanic to work on your car. Misfiring is the only issue that you need to be worried about. It can be one of the coils, spark plug or even the injectors/circuit. A mechanic who knows what is doing should be able to find the misfire issue in no time. There are ways to do this yourself but I am not sure how good you are with your hands. Is the engine management light on? Noisy alternator is not a major problem for now unless it starts causing problems with the battery charge etc. I am sure you can get a free diagnostics test done on your car. If not, buy a cheap OBD2 reader from eBay and read the codes your self. An OBD reader will be useful for your future cars too. You will get a lot more help once you read the codes.

Remove the glove box to gain access to the blower and check the electrical connections. This part may have water ingress over it's life and so it's possible that the connections have oxidised. Sometimes a little wiggle can sort it out, other times you'd need an electrical connection cleaner or something of that sort. This was the issue for me as these cars have a bit of a bad design right where the opening under the cowl is for the air intake. If it's pouring rain or a lot of snow builds up there and suddenly starts melting, the water will get down there, through the filter and into the blower motor. That's also why they like to squeak/squeel when they're older.

Good point Mick F, forget how wider and that bit more heavy doors are on a two door car, always seemed to hit walls more easily when cleaning inside.

I would not call 5w30 incorrect as you mentioned. There are grades of oil recommended as per vehicle usage, climate etc, and both oils are correct, though lighter oil should be better during cold starts, but the difference in mpg i would mostly attribute to cold weathers and car spending more time running lean. The actual difference between those 2 oils should be negligible in financial aspect of mpg consumption. Both oils are better in some degrees, but i would not call one more superior than the other, if they are both same brand. If 5w30 is stated in your manual, car should run just fine with it.

Presumably ease of fitment during production. Other manufacturers do similar - eg an LED rear light for a Hyundai ix35 is around £700.

Toyota's electronics manage the battery charging to maximise life. When we see it as 'full' it really isn't. Similarly, it is never allowed to get near being properly 'empty' even when the battery graphic says it is. There is therefore no need to do any battery 'management' yourself, nor any need to worry about charging it fully and driving til it is empty. I'm surprised to hear Tesla doesn't have a similar system in place. That said, even with automatic management, the PHV battery will degrade slowly over time. I think there's something in the manual which suggests this is likely to manifest as reduced range, but not reduced performance. However, at what point any such range reduction will become noticeable above the daily impact on range of temperature and road conditions, is uncertain. The cars are all too new to have any meaningful data on this.

I had 5w30 oil put in mine during the last service. It makes a noticeable difference the the mpg compared to the correct oil. Currently seeing a reduction of about 6mpg overall and some hesitation with the engine on cold mornings.

We've had three door cars in the past - the last one being owned between 2000-03. As both cars are garaged, the door opening between the car and the garage wall is a fair bit narrower due to the longer door, which makes access more difficult. So for us, together with reduced access to the rear seats, three door cars are a lot less practical. To be honest, as the current Yaris is now an old design, I can see why the GR Sport offers only a cosmetic sports trim.

Hi All, was out car shopping for my sister as trying to get her out of her C1 which she'd had forever as it came with free insurance back in the day. So while I was at the dealership I had a good snoop around the GR Sport and I like it for a five door! I've always been a 3dr fan and with having my 2 Yaris's already in 3dr. But you know what it not bad at all and with the car market changing we have to make the best of what we get here in the U.K. The seats are great and steering wheel from the GT86 makes a good addition too, if I try had a manual 6speed with the 1.5 It would be even more fun 👍

Check the charcoal canister according to the manufacturer's specifications. A common problem with them is the leakage of one of the three ports. it is a plastic lid with a port and this lid is glued to the rest of the canister. A sponge with glue is used which eventually fails. It can be removed easily and glued with a better glue for plastics. The canister is on the passenger side of the engine bay, just behind the headlights assembly. A hose is connected to this port from the throttle body housing which is under engine vacuum, thereby drawing air into the engine. Because the Mass air flow sensor is located just after the air filter, this extra air drawn into the engine is not measured. The result is a lean air to fuel mixture with the adverse effects on engine life, overheating in the combustion chambers, pre ignition and poor fuel economy. Regards, Chris.

The low fuel warning light will come on with ~10l still in the tank so yes, ~33mpg assuming that it was full to start with (but you really should do brim to brim top up). Tbh that is only slightly less than I have been getting in winter with my usage ( quite a high % of urban, often barely warming up) . Is yours a manual or CVT, saloon or estate? As already mentioned check tyres - not only pressures but what size/type they are (e.g. I am now on my winter tyres so don't expect the same fuel economy as on my summers) & that no brakes are binding. Lots of little things add up.

While I wouldn't disagree that it may affect fuel consumption it will be so little that it wouldn't be noticed day to day. It won't cause any adverse effects on the engine so unless you can get hold of the 0w 20 cheaply then I'd just be using the 5w30 it's very similar. Synthetic always recommended as you won't find anything but that with those grades.

Toyota's preferred oil is 0W-20 for hybrids and Optimal Drive petrol engines, though they don't state synthetic or semi. Using 5W-30 will have an adverse effect on fuel consumption, though the degree may vary according to usage, etc.

The very simple method of resetting everything would be to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for ~10 minutes. Then, once connected back, start the car with all accessories turned off and leave it idling for around 5 minutes, then take it on a nice long drive, or even better would be a drive consisting of mixed driving, such as a bit of city driving, a bit of motorway. I think around the 300-400 mile mark the car should start feeling normal again since it takes a while for the ECU to learn everything again and then you can check the mpg then. If it's still bad then I guess you would need to connect the car to a diagnostic computer to really see what's going on, you really don't want to start changing things willy nilly. Off the top of my head, the spark plugs could be due for a replacement, then the usual air filter, then my guess would be to check the Mass Air Sensor. Last thing is oil. There have been numerous threads on here saying that when car is filled with incorrect oil (for example, if your engine takes 0W-20 but shop puts in 5W-30) then the extra drag on the engine could very well bring those mpgs way down. If this is the case then simply changing the oil would help but I would be very suspicios of something like this. Sure, the oil could've been changed just before selling and previous owner didn't get to see the change, but it could be that the previous owner tried masking an issue with the engine by using a thicker oil which isn't unheard of.

I am exploring all the things my C-HR can do. One of the things I am looking at is the pedestrian pre-collision prevention. The online manual has this entry...... Regions Function availability Region A The pedestrian detection function is available Region B The pedestrian detection function is not available However it doesn’t explain how to determine what region the car is from. Anyone got any idea how I find out ?

Begin with the easy things - is the air filter old/choked, and when were the spark plugs last changed. My 2012 1.8 auto could get as low as low to mid 30's if driven fast on motorways, normal driving gave about 40, nun-like driving gave about 50.

Thanks for the welcome! Yes, I'll get a photo on soon. My Carina is a different shape.

Malcolm Hi, I assume you have a hatchback. Remove the cover (2 x trim plugs and 2 x screws). Prise out the light strip (2 x clips, one each end). Disconnect wiring plug.Refitting is reverse procedure. Try and get one from a scrappy, and ask if you can watch how it's done.

So long as the car is less than 5 years old with less than 100,000 miles the centre stop lamp is covered under warranty as it is a sealed unserviceable unit

So spoke to toyota today they advised its not covered under warranty. And they want £150 for it parts and labour.

Yeah my dealer wants £65 to change the bulb. I wasn't aware it was part of a warranty, but thanks will give them a call

As the lamp is a sealed unserviceable LED unit it is covered under the 5 year/100,000 mile Toyota warranty if it fails, so perhaps give your local dealer a call.

im sure replied to this ages ago oh well here goes again i have the 140 model vvti

I have a Gen7 Celica 140 sorry not t-sport but for what it lacks in power more than makes up for it in Style and Grace