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Wheel alignment isn't checked on service. If you have an alignment problem then an indicator would be that your tyres may show signs of uneven wear either on the outer or inner edges. Have you hit a pothole or kerb recently? That would be a reason for it pulling and if it's only just started you wouldn't see any tyre wear initially. Take it to a decent garage to get the alignment checked. Anyone with a Hunter system would be my personal choice.

.... Just in case you didn't know, If you do choose to swap the front tyres around, there is a jacking point (for a trolley jack) under the middle of the engine bay, it has a slight bulge to locate into the jack's cup. So no need to jack up each side seperately with this. Axle stands best used as well. Something else to look out for, some garages have been known to mistakenly jack the car up from just in front of the sill, on the seam that is the joining point of the front wing. This then bends as it's not designed to take the car's weight, the wing then sits proud at its base. The owner assumed the garage knew what they were doing and only (angrily) notices days later when it is too late to complain.

As above, this could be unequal tyre wear. I have found on several of our cars, including the Auris, that the left hand front tyre (UK, RHD) wears quicker than than the right hand, almost certainly due to roundabouts being clockwise, and to an extent the road camber. But wear through cornering would seem to wear the tyre more on the outer edge than the inner edge of the l/h tyre, so the tyre becomes slightly cone-shaped, which may move the contact patch a little, I am reckoning. When I swapped the front tyres across the axle the steering bias and steering wheel offset reversed. On other cars the problem has also gone when new front tyres were fitted.

Never ever have to demist the windows. Never ever had to with the past two cars either due to having aircon. Leave it on permanently, never turn it off, and it will dry out the car internally and the windows never mist up. Mick.

Ok, may I said it depends your needs and where the car will be driven mostly. If you live in a big city there is no doubt Hybrid is the one to choose simply because it’s automatic and it’s most efficient auto and easiest and nicest to drive in town. If you live in a village or small town with little or no traffic jams and if you are enjoying driving manual than you have your answer, petrol manual, also if you are doing a lots of motorways petrol manual can do almost as good as the hybrid one. I am using my Auris Hybrid for my business driving and I am covering 1000+ miles every week mostly motorways average consumption around 50mpg winter and 60mpg summer, in the very cold I keep the car ready and ice running for hours and using heating a lot, not a big difference, maybe another 4-5mpg wasted but warm and cosy inside.

Hi Jon. Had the same problem with my Auris. When the car had its first mot this month I mentioned about the steering and the dealership carried out the adjustment free of charge. It was only a minor adjustment. Cheers.

Computer average is only 51mpg this month - mainly town driving.

I don't use that site, but pay attention to the Ave MPG display on the dash. Sometimes, it's not been reset for months. We seem to be getting circa 50mph though it has been down to 48mpg and as high as 55mpg. Hills round here kill any fuel economy figures, though on a long run up the motorway, we'll get 65mpg+ Winter, plus hills, plus short runs are the lowest. Mick.

My first ever Japanese car and it's done more miles than any car I've ever owned! £300 Yaris with 4 new tires, 12 months MOT and 313,000 miles on the clock! The little engine seems tired, but that's to be expected. He gets me to work and back now that I've fitted a new battery. I'm hoping to nurse Yaro along until I decide I can afford something bigger. I make and fly RC gliders as a hobby and Yaro isn't really big enough, but for the winter, he'll do. I'll just make a glider that fits! I'll be looking for some parts, such as exhaust manifold and maybe headlamp. The other side one is not fogged. Oh yeah. Torquemada has been my forum name on the vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk for more than 15 years. 😎

Purchased a 2010 Auris diesel in July 2018. Great car! I didn't want to mess around so went for a Toyota approved used, complete with service plan and extended warranty. The car has all the service stamps from approved Toyota dealers, which was the only reason it could be sold as an approved used. I had it used today and had the following: front brakes - discs lipped, pads recently replaced non genuine (cost to fix £127) rear bleed nipples seized in calipers (cost to fix £700) I was wondering if this is indicative that at some point the brakes were serviced by an less reputable garage, and if, as well as using non-genuine pads, they could have over tightened the brake nipples. Is this a possibility or is it likely the seizing is just a sign of age? Should I try to negotiate a discount given the presence of non-genuine parts? Thanks for your help.

i can only speak regarding the 2013 Auris hybrid model and that retro fitting CC works perfectly

IF you bought the cat from a dealer, i'd return the car, and get back to searching for another one, it simply has too many problems, and even if they fix it, which i doubt would be a propper fix, i'd not trust the car itself. https://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/advice/the-second-hand-car-i-bought-has-a-problem-what-are-my-rights Rejecting a second-hand car If there's a problem with a second-hand car soon after you've bought it - for example, the car develops a problem you wouldn't expect for its age and mileage, or it turns out not to be what you’d been led to expect - you may have the right to reject it and get your money back. If you bought the car any time after 1 October 2015, you have only 30 days to reject it and get a full refund under the Consumer Rights Act. Cars bought before 1 October 2015 would have come under the Sale of Goods Act, which has now been replaced by the Consumer Rights Act. This stated that you must have rejected the car within a reasonable time frame (probably within three to four weeks – less if it was an obvious problem). If you reject a second-hand car bought in the UK, you must stop using it immediately. New car problems? There's more information about your rights if something goes wrong with a brand new car in another guide.

Welcome Peter to the club.You will find that there are many friendly members on here who are always happy to answer anything they can. Not suggesting you do not know, but that sometimes toothpaste and elbow grease can work wonders on hazy light lens and an electric polisher used carefully helps the job to be easier Del

You have a pretty long topic of people installing the CC, and saying if it works, or not. From what i remember, only some model engines do not work, and those were both dieseles. I'd browse through the topic to see if anyone has the same year/engine you want to buy. As for MPG, give some info about your commute, urban / rural etc. With my 1.6, i can get around 48 mpg cruising on highway with ac on, and 60 mph, on rural roads with 50-ish limit around 45mpg, with 42 mpg in city, but this is all during summer. During winters and on short trips it often shows around 35 mpg, longer trips around 42 mpg. Seeing as your car would have same, but a bit newer engine, maybe you can get slightly better mpg. I do tend to drive consistently, and i'm pretty satisfied with consumption. Even with a bit more aggressive driving, the mpg does not change much.

Toyota Corolla AE101 Wagon Lips Making https://youtu.be/jN849--scYE

That's great to hear, the last used car that I bought (Skoda Citigo) had an engine failure just after 12 months forcing me to scrap it, so I'm being more careful this time around. I'm deciding between a Yaris Hybrid/Kia Picanto/Honda Jazz, so far Yaris seems to be the better option.

Definitely, no gearbox or gear linkage issues, no clutches to go wrong and they are gentler on the brakes too due to the regen. Take a look at some of the YouTube vids about the drive train and you'll see how simple it is.

Hi, all info helpful and correct, only to notice that most of modern tyres has a direction so swapping front tyres left with right will not work unless tyres are taken off wheels, swapped and balanced again. You can rotate front left with rear left on your own and same on the right side of the car. Also tyre pressures should be checked when car hasn’t been driven for a few hours otherwise will not get correct pressures. Second important thing is to get all wheels alignment and suspension check, if your Auris has rear independent suspension that needs adjustment too, and if not correct can affect handling same as the front axle.

It makes your wonder if the Hybrid works more like a stop start system and when pulling away from traffic lights helping the MPG, loving the car all the same but would i pay the extra price over a 1lt or a 1.5? again only time will tell.

Our previous Yaris Sport averaged 50 mpg over the 3 years we had it, and the new Icon Tech is doing the same.

Greetings Tanya and a big welcome to the club Of course there are many factors involved in the life of these parts that I am sure you are aware of.Some times a small piece grit can get it'self lodged between a pad and disc and embed in the pad.this can manifest in a scratch mark on the disc which you will be able to see through the wheel. Del

as far as I know current Toyota Smartfobs can disable their transmissions via button presses so that you can have it sitting in the house & there is no signal for thieves to boost. Or you could get a Faraday bag and/or a good old-fashioned steering wheel disklock. or indeed if you so wished you can switch off the smart system via the menu system on the infotainment head unit.

I think it only occurs with cars that unlock automatically as you approach ….. …. but what happens if they break into a 'normal' keyless car (with a start button) and use the same key signal boosting system - will our cars start even though the doors have been 'breeched' - windows broken for example?

Could be tempted back into a manual 1.5 petrol Yaris next time but then again in 7 to 10 years will you be able to even get a Yaris without it being a hybrid? good in a way because am liking the idea of Hybrid but price Vs MPG seems a close run thing over a normal 1.5 petrol or even a lot more closer run thing over a lighter weight Aygo with a 1lt engine?

Hi, Dave, SWMBO has the same 2006 Gen 2 T4 as yours and she's had it for 9 years now. In terms of repairs, over the 9 years of ownership, she's had one new 12v (about 3 years ago IIRC), one broken rear spring (worth checking on your creaking), a full set of brake disks and pads and a very expensive replacement rear light cluster. Sod's law every light in the cluster is a bulb, except the LED brake light which failed and is not repairable. The only complaint she has is that the steering is heavy compared to my Gen 4. She bought it at the same time as I bought my first Prius, a Gen 3 T-Spirit and I was surprised, after reading how much the Gen 3 was supposed to be better than the Gen 2, it wasn't all that much. IMO the Gen 2 had a more comfortable ride, seemed to have more torque and pulled away better than the Gen 3 at lower speeds. Specification differences aside, the only advantages of the Gen 3 were better mpg and better handling if you need to push it. If you are considering a Gen 3, take a good test drive first, you may be disappointed. If you can wait until you can afford it, you'd be better saving up for a Gen 4, a totally different beast IMO, I can honestly say the Gen 4 Prius is the best car I've ever owned in my 48 years of driving.

Back in October 2015 the Sales of Goods Act was replaced by The Consumer Rights Act 2015. Excluding private sales, for vehicles purchased within six months a fault is presumed to have been there at time of sale. If purchased over six months ago, the onus is on the owner to prove the fault was there at time of sale.

If the bleed nipples are seized I would say they were seized when you bought it. As it's an "approved" used car I'd be going back to the dealer and complaining and also have a look at Sales of Goods act. You may get some more info here https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/forumdisplay.php?f=70 although some people can be a bit harsh :)

I bought the correct adaptors from Halfords and now have a fully working stereo, I have never installed a car stereo before so was completely clueless as to what to even search for, thank you to everyone for your help

Swap your tyres front to back first and see if the symptoms change.

if it's a TNS700 then the firmware updates are included on the satnav mapping update discs - update your maps & if a new firmware had been released since your last your unit firmware got updated. You would probably need a replacement fascia panel & possibly a harness adaptor/interface - something like http://www.connects2.co.uk/Product/ProductItem/CTKTY12

Sadly when you are demising the windscreen i Gulps fuel like there's no tomorrow in winter time. Best way is to get a window vac and remove the water that way. 😁 While using eco driving mode with the heating on the low 20's on Auto. it doesn't keep the engine running constantly.

My post to the OP was to check with her local ICE installer for an ISO adaptor... as stated it is a shame their is no uniformity such as the ISO standard amonst car manufactuers; it would negate all these adaptors if their were. Years ago there were hardly any adaptors and the only option was cut and block... once you have done enough of them it only takes a few minutes and I never had any subsequent problems! Not ideal I know, but when needs must...