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  1. Heidfirst

    Heidfirst

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    Ant182

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    Catlover

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  4. mickburkesnr

    mickburkesnr

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/05/2019 in all areas

  1. Always remember, the alternative to a Hybrid car is either an ICE or EV. Downside of ICE is pollution, which is main reason getting away from ICE. Downside of EV is low mileage travel between charges, main reason I kept away from an EV within my budget. An Hybrid is a compromise. It is self charging, so no need to worry where nearest charge points are, it has an engine to keep me going in all situations except running out of fuel - and I would only do that if I was stupid, it gives good mpg and less pollution of the atmosphere due to running on petrol less. On that last point, my on board computer shows I running on battery in the summer 57% of the time,and in winter 43% of the time. Battery technology is getting better all the time, smaller, lighter, more powerful. Until the lower priced EV can do 300 miles on a single charge,and can be “refilled” to the top within 20-30 minutes, and charging stations are more common, personally I think an Hybrid is brilliant. Until then, life is a compromise, and Toyota, IMO, has got it right in bringing to the market now for 20 years Hybrid vehicles. You can be sure though they will have EV’s being developed and tested right now, but what’s the point on bringing out a Leaf or Zoe that can only do 100 or so miles between charges (first editions). And what cost and how frequent is a battery replacement that’s being used all the time.? I don’t know about the Yaris Hybrid, but the my Prius and the Wife’s Auris hybrids have a 10 year HV battery warranty so long as they are checked annually (free as part of a service, £40 otherwise). My Prius Gen4 was doing just over 80mpg summer and just over 70mpg winter. And I can drive past urban schools with playground full of kids knowing full well most times I can be running on battery, so less pollution then petrol/diesel. I have watched a lot of YouTube videos on how to drive a hybrid car to get full advantage of high mpg. I had to make changes as to how I drove, but always making sure I don’t hinder or road users. I read recently someone in a Toyota hybrid saying it’s painfully slow trying to get from traffic lights stop to 30mph in a reasonable time, using battery, without annoying others. I don’t even try. Sure, I use the battery to get the 1.5 ton car moving (thus save a lot of money) but once moving I use the petrol engine to get me up to a reasonable speed in a reasonable time - you can’t run forever on battery 1) it’s not got the power to accelerate quickly, 2) I am mindful the system is self charging and so accept there are times it needs to run on petrol. I choose the times to my advantage when I can. Battery cars seem to be the future, maybe hydrogen cars will rule (and Toyota market an hydrogen car), but until the day batteries have a good capacity, taking up less space, weigh less, are cheaper, can be charged quicker and more fill up places, Hybrid is the way to go.
    2 points
  2. Will check it out! Just an update on this. For once the cold didn't stop me, it was the clutch! Couldn't release two bolts of the clutch to the flywheel as the flywheel kept moving. Remembered I had to use a pry bar (which I found!) and push the flywheel when I turned the bolts. Managed to do all of that, only to be scuppered by not being able to remove the bolts of the flywheel. Tried everything, but nothing seems to work. I ended up gambling on as universal a flywheel locking tool I could get hold of. It's made by Sealey, product code VSE2394, and it arrived yesterday. Didn't really have much time to use it but I placed it on the flywheel and it lines up with the holes for the gearbox bolts to attach to. So I think this will help me loosen and tighten the flywheel! I wanted to get a universal one as after the Corolla is on the road I've another car to restore. So I didn't want to buy two flywheel locking tools specifically for different engines! This week I should be cleaning up more bolts, some of the suspension bolts are currently sitting in the vinegar/salt bath. Hopefully I'll be able to do the driveshafts this week too ready for the weekend.
    2 points
  3. Really nice looking SR . Just got myself (wife) a Yaris 1.33 icon ,white and black with tinted rear windows on a 62 plate. Start reading your tread and spotted the transporter bridge in your pics . I can just see it from work when I go up the tower . Wanted to ask if you notice and difference after fitting the k&n and the induction kit ? I'm just waiting for the better weather then I'm going to get out and give the car a good clean inside and out and tidy it up a bit . I'll start a thread here when I get round to it.
    1 point
  4. What is the gunk actually for? It's a simple plug-in device that you use rather than jacking up the car and using a wheel-brace to change the wheel. Given the personal choice - that I now have because I've bought the space-saver and jack - I would jack up the car etc. If I was less able, I would be tempted to use the gunk and the connection devices, but the way I see it, you pays your money and you takes your chance. The space-saver is the best bet of both worlds. If you can't do it, you phone someone who can. Doing it that way, you can at least save the damaged tyre and get it repaired. Use the gunk instead perhaps, but there's a chance you'll still have to phone someone but I suspect they'd rather have changed the tyre in the first place. Mick.
    1 point
  5. 1 point
  6. You can get punctures that are too large for the gunk to seal. Like you I prefer the security of a spare (even if it is only a temporary, speed-limited spacesaver).
    1 point
  7. I'm going for a ..... Bit'o Bling! Stainless, no less... Replacing the 2 acorn nut (plus a random rusty nut) on the Cambox Cover. I need cheering up 2sav
    1 point
  8. the spacesaver uses a higher profile than a standard road tyre so the actual rolling radius remains very similar.
    1 point
  9. We're down to 48mpg now. Hills and cold weather are the enemies of fuel economy, closely followed by shorter journeys on rural roads. Mick.
    1 point
  10. My Yaris MPG is pretty rubbish really. The best I've had is 60mpg and worst on my last fill up 42mpg. I basically use it for an 8 mile each way commute in Sheffield which is quite hilly. Recent cold weather hasn't helped though.
    1 point
  11. Hi Haitham, welcome to TOC 🙂 You won't have any problem - it's just a straight dipstick
    1 point
  12. So after the work this weekend I thought I'd have a quick play around with our sponsor decals on the car. I anyone would like to come up with a different design or have any thoughts please let me know, some computer renderings would be great 👍 it's coming along slowly.
    1 point
  13. I have a 2005 Yaris T-Sport and all I can say is that it's one of the best little cars that I have ever owned & I have gone through a few over the years. I bought mine when it had 54k on the clock & FTSH. A number of years later it still has FTSH and has just turned 82k and has flew through it's MOT a few weeks ago with no advisories. Mpg wise I am getting close to 40 & it has been ultra reliable with me only having to replace a few parts where corrosion has got the better of them such as the exhaust & fuel neck filler pipe. You need to remember this is a different car to the 1.3 and is huge fun to drive on twisty roads if you like that kind of thing. I love mine as you may be able to tell
    1 point
  14. Yer at least when it starts complete it will be sound forever 👍 Our team has a twitter feed now if you are on there it's Team Ya'race identified with @ya_race come follow us 👍
    1 point
  15. Get a old laptop running Windows xp and get the Toyota techstream interface very cheap on the likes of eBay can do almost anything the dealership can do. Most of what the other poster said regarding setting door locks and other things will only work if your car is equipped for the option of these.
    1 point
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