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The displayed range after a full charge is not directly proportional to your battery capacity, it is based on previous journeys and other data. Your efficiency will be down during winter due to lower ambient temperatures. The battery will generate heat while charging, but that's not enough. Li-ion batteries like operating temperatures closer to 20 degrees.

Bear in mind regard;less of other factors, the range will decrease in colder weather and should improve again in warm,er weather. So when comparing EV range, you need to compare with range figures produced (or estimated) at similar temperatures. I've spoken to a few (first generation) PiP owners who said they got 12 ish in the summer and 8-9 on cold winter days even when their cars were fairly new.

It's stated in the manual that reduction in capacity is expected over time and use, and the warranty also states that this is not covered - unlike other manufacturers (maybe Nissan?) who do state a specific loss in capacity that will be covered by the warranty. I don't think the health check really takes loss of capacity into account. One thing I would suggest is to check your brake calipers are moving freely and lubricate the guide pins (slide pins?) at least every 2 years, especially the rear brakes. I gained nearly a mile in range after sorting out mine, though I had to replace all the rear pins as they were badly corroded. Regarding fuel consumption in its current state: I'd recommend starting the ICE during some higher speed/low traffic section to avoid any unnecessary idling during the startup phase. @altocumulus I'd say your observed reduction in range is down to the change in ambient temperature and road conditions in winter. It should go up again in the coming months. I don't know how you're putting up with no heat up there!

What is covered under each service is detailed on Toyota's website - https://www.toyota.co.uk/owners/service-mot-maintenance/servicing - and this has been the case for a number of years. I've had service plans on each of our last three Toyotas, and have been aware from day one of each service plan, which services were included. A plug change is included as part of the Full+ service, but if your service plan was only for Intermediate and Full services, a plug change would be extra. To know what one is paying for, in my opinion, is an essential part of any purchase. Aside from the above, as your car is over five years old, you could have taken advantage of Toyota's Essential Care scheme, which reduces the servicing costs quite substantially - for the Auris £120 for a silver (intermediate) service and £200 for a gold (full) service. Also til the end of 2019, there is an offer of a silver service and MOT for £99. See the link above.

I have a 2010 Yaris 1.3 manual and it is slowly losing power, when once I could zip up hills in 6th gear I'm now changing down to 4th gear. The car has only done 81500KMs I have had it from new, and it has a full service record. It is now starting to hunt whilst idling and sometimes cuts out on me when waiting at road junctions etc. Thinking the obvious I ran a full tank of petrol mixed with injector cleaner and this has achieved nothing, I am now running a second tank full to try again. I took it back to the agent and they said it was the fuel /air sensor and we tried a new one but it was exactly the same ( there are no dash warning lights showing by the way). The spark plugs are fairly new and have been checked and tested, the air filter is clean. Anyone experienced this before?

You need to have the engine running whilst updating (if you had the ignition on in acc. & the head unit shut down for battery saving mid-updates you would have a corrupted head unit) & if doing the full update it may take something like an hour.

Brilliant!! Just as you say, the trick is to order 6.12.0 and click thru the price to the checkout. The price then shows as zero. I have downloaded the file and have the activation code. Can't wait to try it out tomorrow. 🙂 Many many thanks. Your help much appreciated. GG.

The 1.33 can suffer from carbon build up on the valves/valve seats causing poor valve sealing and a lack of cylinder compression, symptoms can include: Poor startability / extended cranking Poor / unstable idle Engine stalling Lack of power Excessive oil consumption Engine rattle The official fix/modification was a big one consisting of modified: Rocker cover, Piston oil Jets, Piston Sub-Assy, W/ pin, Ring set, Piston and a strip, clean and rebuild of the Cylinder head in all about 20 + hours of work in a workshop.

Makes perfect sense. Thank you I think i was so pleased that my baby passed its mot...id rather visit the dentist lol...followed by my very 1st Advisory ever...i panicked...bort the bulb n off i went. Had that gentleman have never stopped me the other night i probably would never have known any better!! Bless him. I do wonder how bright it could have been for him because he seemed upset and dazzled rubbing his eyes in gesture n all sorts!

Hello Tomas - welcome to Toyota Owners Club.

I can't see anything written down in my service plan or on the Toyota website but I'm sure I heard any parts needed outside of a service plan would get 10% discount on, which is another benefit of a Service Plan. I've done my own car maintenance since 1995 when I passed my driving test, now I'm happy to pay someone the change the oil/filters/brakes etc instead of me doing it in the rain/snow/wind etc so I can enjoy more time doing what I would like to do. Each to their own but I'm 100% happy with the Toyota Service Plan I have. In my eyes it is very good value for money, my dealer is very willing to accommodate a courtesy car with my strange working hours, pricing for parts and labor is competitive & I have trust in them, they have never tried to sell me something that wasn't needed. I bought my car from this dealer at 3 years old, it has never been anywhere else for servicing so when it had a whine and the clutch pedal sticking to the floor at 4yr/50wk old they took the car straight in and a new clutch kit/thrust release bearing fitted under warranty. I also think having a good relationship with the garage helps. It's not to say that you wouldn't get the same service from an independent garage but we all have our own idea's & values for 'good value'

I think you probably right on the warranty side of things but£252 a year for a filter change and mot is abit steep they found a problem with rear brakes as carrier on caliper seized seems they don't strip clean the brakes anymore either £260 on top of the plan cost no new plugs or air filter o but they said they changed brake fluid so all in all £1260.00 for not a lot in my opinion

On dual fillament bulbs I thought they used to offset the bayonet pins so the bulb could not be fitted incorrectly.

That is very helpful thank you.