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Hello all, first post here! I have a 2014 13.3 pre-facelift. When I picked it up from the dealer it was missing the tyre sealant in the boot. I have complained about that but I was thinking that I will get a space saver anyway. I have read most of threads I can find here but I want to be really certain before I buy one, My questions are: It has 15" 4-stud alloys on it so can I just assume that a 15" spacesaver listed for my model will fit? And does anyone know if the well is big enough? The car is immaculate and I'm quite pleased with it generally but the throttle response drives us both nuts! Both the lack of feel on the pedal and the hanging. We can drive around it but the hanging is particularly bad, much worse than on any other car I've driven since they started using drive by wire throttles. I'm wondering if I could do something about it, or if mine is worse for some reason?

I'll await the cure for throttle hanging with interest. Both my last two cars suffered this and like you I find it really annoying.

Well I have kind of answered my own question. Yesterday I had a look and found a good cheap/free fix for the throttle hanging on gearchanges. I understand that a small amount of throttle hang is by design but some Toyotas are worse than others really affecting the normal pleasant drive of the earlier cars and making proper crisp, smooth gearchanges every time (even with 47 years experience of driving hundreds of different cars) all but impossible. The difference was obvious immediately. I will add a post if allowed to the 'How to' guides with pics when I get time.

This is an old post, but just in case anybody comes across it whilst searching for a solution, my fix was to use Techstream (old to up to date) with a Mini-VCI J2534 USB to OBD cable. Techstream simply removed the caution lights, and did a proper 'reset' that other diagnostics caused and could not fix. I mistakenly thought that my Launch would 'reset' the EPB after changing the rear brake pads, and caused the same issue as the others on this post. I have a notebook with Delphi that has the proper software, but the battery needed charging, so use the Launch. That was when I loaded an 'old' version of Techstream and learnt how to use it before fixing the fault. Even the Delphi or the jumper wire (paper clip) and pedal trick didn't work. It's going to happen to somebody in the future and hopefully this will give them an idea of how to fix the fault. For those who read this, but not have the fault, don't use the wrong diagnostics to 'reset the EPB' unless the software states it can calibrate. I only know that Techstream and Delphi can do this! After changing rear pads, just leave alone if you don't want a headache.

I have the wheel lock key (even took a pic of the lock number just in case). I spent a long time in the motor trade so a spare socket and breaker bar is no problem, 🙂 The original wheel brace supplied in those tool kits are next to useless anyway.

I understand a full size wheel and tyre will fit in the spare wheel well. May be worth sourcing one for less than a space-saver! Wish I'd known this for forking out for mine! You'd also need a jack and wheel-brace.

My 2019 Yaris Hybrid Icon Tech power battery indicator never shows all the bands green, the best it's reached is two less than the max. Long or short journeys make no difference. Is that normal?

You'll tend to find as it gets closer to full, the car will try increasingly harder to use up electric power to try to ensure there's always room for 'free' regenerated energy. Conversely, it tries increasingly harder to top up the battery the lower it gets (from two bars - I've almost never seen just one bar) so there's power available when you need an extra boost from the Motor/Generators. You'll notice more revs for a given accelerator pressure when the battery is low, especially if accelerating up an incline (even quite a gentle one).

Not looked. I expect the battery to be still at eight bars. Mrs Mick F is away for a day or so and she has the car, so I can't check right now, but I'll try to remember for next time. General driving, the battery settles - or at least tends to settle - with the top two cells empty. Mick.

I'd covered over 70,000 miles in 4 years in my first Prius Gen 1s before I experienced my first HV battery "max out", but a holiday in Scotland made it a daily occurrence. When reaching the bottom of a 5-6 mile 20% (1 in 5) hill, you got a good idea what an EV would feel like as the Hybrid System tried like mad to use up some of the excess electricity so there'd be room for more free energy when braking or going down the next hill. The Gen 1 had no EV button, but while maxed out modest pressure on the accelerator would see electric only driving up to at least 60 mph! "Maxed out" doesn't just mean all the bars are lit - it takes quite a lot of extra regeneration after the eighth bar lights up before the system truly maxes out (like the fuel gauge, each bar covered a range of quantities). The car's behaviour changes when this happens, and you're likely to be very aware of it because the sound changes, but mostly the braking changes. It's still well power assisted, so won't be onerous, but B mode certainly seems to make it a bit less of a chore.

I think I will just get one from ebay. There are quite a few second hand but unused with tools for £40 ish. I'm not going use it unless absolutely necessary anyway and not for long either! The sealers are useless for many punctures especially if the tyre has run flat for any distance at all or cut on a kerb. Thanks all for your help. 🙂

Is the price for the genuine Toyota tyre repair goo quite high? I had an idea that it was £45 for the Mazda equivalent, and that was some years ago.

You need two part numbers to get a spare wheel in current generation Yaris 42600-0D900 - Tools & fitting kit 42600-0DM51- Temporary spare wheel and tyre 16" Together they are about £110 but as Frosty suggests ask your dealer to contribution the cost of the tyre glue towards the total cost

This isn't quite what you were asking, but this chart (for a Prius Gen2 actually, but it is still relevant) shows how the shown charge relates to real battery charge. The battery only cycles from 40% to 80% roughly, to extend the battery life.

Yes, that is absolutely normal. The last two bars are for somewhere to store energy if you are regenerating power through braking, going downhill etc.

Outdated because if we want to update maps we'll have to pay for it every 2 or 3 years while you can have it for free on your smartphone. I've spoked with a local dealer and they've told me that while they're still waiting for carPlay, android auto is ready to go with a trick. When I have the car I'll try it.