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Both sides, rear of the roof gutter where the seam weld is that is Visable when the boot is open. I used sikaflex 512 sealant.. wasn't cheap at £14 a tube but it's worked a treat.. no pics I'm afraid but I'll look at tryin to get one took next few days..

Sorry for the lack of updates, sealing those 2 hair line cracks in the roof gutter has cured it. The water was getting past and goin down between the 2 body panels and coming out where the light cluster sits, hence me thinking it was the seals.

The 2008 Corolla was a saloon - the hatchback being replaced by the Auris. Saloons in the same market sector as the Corolla don't sell in sufficient volume to justify being imported, and this is common across most manufacturers. For example the Focus and Astra saloons of the same era as your Corolla, were also not sold in the UK.

You should've treated your Carina to a stainless steel exhaust 😉

Thanks for the update David, always appreciated. Were the hairline cracks on either side or just on one? Also where about exactly were there and what did you use to seal them,oh, and did you take any pictures? Sorry for all the questions but I'm sure someone will find this info useful in the future as it's what makes forums a great source of information. Thanks once again for taking the time to post.

I have tried mirror link but as soon as you begin to drive it disables it saying the car is in motion. So its either disabled to stop people using their phones while driving (watching videos etc) or looking at it like a cynic stop use of the navigation etc on phones. Again another really bizarre thing why have the option of mirror link only when the car is stationary...pretty useless in my opinion! There's lots I love about my new Toyota but then things like the above not so much 😕 I did actually provide this feedback in the survey I got from Toyota after buying the car and I hope they take notice of these sorts of things so at least future owners or owners of other models in their range get some sensible features and benefits.

Go to http://japan-parts.eu and enter your VIN number, you will then get the correct part numbers for your car.

My friend has a kit same/similar to this and it works. I saw him using it on one occasion. For £6.50 well worth it in my opinion, can’t lose.

Or this repair kit. You have to be able find the hole of course. A temporary repair, but seems to work. https://www.amazon.co.uk/TYRE-PUNCTURE-REPAIR-STRIPS-BESTSELLER/dp/B00ISFIN4Y/ref=pd_sbs_263_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00ISFIN4Y&pd_rd_r=855a9573-80b6-11e9-9ff2-d5fd6dee570d&pd_rd_w=xmBoL&pd_rd_wg=fXIDX&pf_rd_p=18edf98b-139a-41ee-bb40-d725dd59d1d3&pf_rd_r=1E39T4KJ6WB1XN6S5KPR&psc=1&refRID=1E39T4KJ6WB1XN6S5KPR

Got ours from eBay along with a jack and wheelbrace. £60ish if my memory serves me correctly. It fits coz I tried it. Does it really really matter if the diameter is a bit wrong? Our wheel rims are bigger but the aspect ratio is smaller so the overall diameter is similar. Sorry, but Mrs Mick F has the car for a few days so I can't check the accurate facts. It's better to have a spacesaver tyre that will fit the wheel-nuts and you can carry on to a tyre fixing place, than shoving that horrible muck inside the punctured tyre in the hope that it'll work. Even then, you will find your favourite tyre place wouldn't touch a repair with a barge pole. Mick.

It's a 1mm/2mm steel plate that bolts on to the engine and from what I've read on other sites about different engines is that it's used to locate the starter. Yours probably does have it? Anyway, spent the whole of bank holiday monday dropping the gearbox out, realigned this plate, put it back together and Paddy spluttered in to life on the first go - with the help of a battery booster anyway! Got to refit the subframe properly but I'll do that tomorrow. I'll book it in for an MOT for Saturday as well.

Maybe there is some official Toyota advice on this, which I have no way of knowing, but I can't see why a normal 16" safety spare for a Yaris won't fit your one. Unless Toyota have fitted oversize front brakes or wheel hubs to your model, which I very much doubt, then the dimensions should still all work out. The difference in circumference between the normal 16" tyres and your 17" tyres is small (2.5%?), so not a big deal for a temporary measure. All the more so since it is good practice to put the safety spare (if needed) onto a back wheel by shuffling the wheels to suit. There is no chance of your (GR) back brakes being too big to fit a 'normal' Yaris safety spare. So, if there is a safety spare for the 16" wheel car then I can't see why it won't fit yours, but I'm happy to be proved wrong. But the difference in grip between your 17" tyre and the puny safety spare will be bigger than with any of the other tyre options available, maybe that's what Toyota was thinking of when they said it wasn't recommended. I wonder if the differences in grip cause a problem with the VSC etc. in a 'critical' situation?

I can't hear enough from the videos but from the symptoms the alternator freewheel could be the culprit for both cars. Most modern alternators have a freewheel as part of the pulley. (sometimes known as an overrunning alternator pulley) If it fails, it usually causes belt slippage on revving, noises on starting and/or the belt bouncing around. A special tool is needed to replace it and you would need to remove the alternator first but these tools are available reasonably online if you like to do your own work. 🙂

Try getting the universal ones on ebay's and alike, they should be up to 40mm or 45mm, and you get 1 to 3 screws to fit it, installation is like 1 minute.

Another new episode has just gone live on my channel, feel free to take a look if you want, many thanks.

Think I've found it. Had friend pour water over back end when I'm sat in back with insides stripped, can see the water coming from between the inner and outer rear panels. Traced it to the top of the car, the weather strips that run in the roof gutters.. at the back of the car both sides, is a small crack in the joint where the roof meets the rear panel. Dried it all. Ran water over it and it came out round the inside of the lights.. gonna take the weather strips off and clean it all up and reseal..

My first Avensis 03 model had dreadful leaks into the boot. After lots of time spent tracing the leaks and looking at light seals, vents, boot seal(hatchback) and everything it turned out to be the welded joints low down each side of the hatch. The welds had not cracked but were leaking. I fixed it with a "creeping crack sealant" Captain Tolleys Seam Sealant. You apply it and it seeps into the seams by capilliar action and then sets hard. Worked totally. It may not be your problem but it is worth thinking about it from this angle.

Throw a neighbours kid in there, or 2. I actually opened the back door, and put some stuff, lied down. It's a bit hard to move around, but saves time.

Just strip down the plastic, open the back seats and sit down in the boot. Give someone outside 1 or 2 2L bottles full of water to pour around the lights, and you will find the issue in no time.

It will be the high level brake light seal. I had a wet boot on mine and I didn't fancy messing around with sealant,so I bought a complete unit with a, supposedly, upgraded seal as you can't get the seal on its own. No more wet boot 😀Also try putting a bit of sealant around the 2 little stops at the corners of the boot as they can, sometimes, be the culprits.

This problem is pretty common on Auris. I stripped all the plastic out, and got someone to pour water with the hose around the light. You can then spot it pretty easily. In my case water was going around the light, then inside the bumper, and somewhere between the bumper and the bodywork, it got inside between the seams, and poured in, you can see the seam on the picture below. When you check the inside, you can see the silicone being applied pretty liberal around the whole boot area, but this part was missed, so i added a long bead, and no water ever since. Above the seam is the access hole for the light cluster. on this picture, far right side.

I had a very similar problem on a Mazda 6. I used a digital camera with 'macro' and 'flash' enabled. When I looked at the images of the seam blown-up, I spotted a pinhole in the seam mastic that you couldn't see normally. I had spent hours looking for that leak (which was behind the light, coincidentally). Just sayin'!

Does this only happen when you wash the car or when it rains? Is the car parked on the level? Does the rear washer work and does the ingress of water have a smell or colour to it (screen wash etc)? My next move would be to see if the leak was higher up than the rear lights so try stuffing some paper towel in the void above the light clusters and if they get wet then I would be looking higher up. Also check that the rubber grommet that houses the wiring loom (top left hand side near top hinge) is not split or loose from the bodywork and that the pipe has not become disconnected. I know you said you sealed the light clusters but you can never be 100% sure, the use of new seals would go a long way of achieving that. Let us know how you get on. There's "nowt worse" than leaks or rattles!

Too bad so many of them don't work properly! 👹

All cars are already fitted with a speed limiting device, it's the drivers right foot! Too much is being taken away from the driver, we'ii soon have cars that drive themselves......oh