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In the manual for mine:

I bought my Yaris Hybrid due to the mechanical simplicity. Environmental concerns were second, and then only because this meant lower fuel consumption! I must drive automatics, and my previous torque-converter automatic was a reliability nightmare. My hybrid has just rolled over 40k in 3.6 years, and is as good as the day I bought it. She needs a bit of TLC inside and out, but you could put it back in the showroom.

Well I am now eight months down the line with my Excel Plug in Prius, I have done 5000 miles on one tank of petrol and I was wondering whether over this time span does petrol goes off and lose some of its qualities, on my second refill I have used Shell super unleaded thinking that this might help. I have experienced exceptional fuel economy my last longish round trip I did 280 miles and averaged 95.8 miles to the gallon. This was cruising between 40 to 65 mph when I could. Another small round trip of 70 miles, coming back, just on regenerative battery alone, I achieved 96 mpg. Fantastic!

I would get the existing wheels refurbished and stick with the same tyre size. I bought a secondhand wheel so I had a fifth alloy, though it is a different colour.of the same design. It came in handy a few times, when I had to wait a couple of days for a replacement tyre. Anything is better than the space saver that comes with the car. A full size wheel fits without the tool tray.

Hi Danny, welcome to TOC 🙂 First off for either question contact uour insurer & see what their position would be if you change for either of your suggestions. You could of course get the existing alloys refinished. If your spare tyre from the KIA is still on a wheel you could probably reuse that simpy by using a bore/spigot adapter. However, hopefully your spare is rarely needed & then only very temporarily so personally I probably wouldn't bother.

Hello and welcome 😄

Diesel probably isn’t ideally suitable for your usage, the engine will take longer to reach the correct thermal condition to operate efficiently, a short cold run isn’t going to do that.

I'll second that. One of my late mother's carers bought a diesel Astra, and found the battery kept going flat because the very short hops between clients were too short to replace the energy used to start the car. A new battery didn't help, and she ended up getting her husband to charge the battery at least once a week.

It is odd that this is happening on both back lights. When a bulb fails it is normal to expect it to be permanent, but if the the two ends of the broken filament touch together (vibration) they can temporarily weld themselves back together again for a while. I have seen this happen whilst a plugged-in 'dead' bulb has been in my hand - a tiny spark and the bulb comes back on for a while. That was a 15w bulb though, but on that size it was quite common to fail that way, this confused many owners as that car had a bulb failure warning which it would trigger, but when you stopped the car and checked at the bulb it was lit. Perhaps yours are the failing in a vaguely similar (but weird) way? In that situation changing the bulb stopped the problem completely. Also worth looking at the bulb holder and bulb contacts for surface corrosion whilst you're in there. A tiny amount of WD40 into the bulb holder wouldn't go amiss. I would put the applicator pipe into the holder and put a cloth over that it to stop squirting WD40 into your face! For ease/cheapness, I would be tempted to change the bulbs for new ones anyway, at least they can then be ruled out. The tail light is probably a W5W, also known as a 501, but worth checking that as I don't have your car. They are cheap and widely stocked.

Get a multimeter and test if there is power to the wire when you turn on the lights. Do other lights works, break light, blinker, reverse?

Forget a diesel, because you do short, stop, start journeys. I just looked on Autotrader and there's a fair few three door petrol auto and manuals to chose from for the budget you mention. Unless you need the extra space etc, I don't see the point in you dragging a heavier five door option around and using more fuel !! Look for a tidy one with as much service history as possible. Good luck.

Sorry to say that the faulty bearing I had was from Car Spares Direct, your seller. Even though their address is shown as Great Portland Street, London their returns address is in Essex and is the same as several other e bay motor spares sellers including Bahuha who I also bought a faulty bearing from. Yours may be fine just be sure when you fit it and you have the wheel on that you try it for play-you cannot feel the play with the bearing in your your hands, you need the wheel radius leverage for it to be felt. Getting the bearing out is as follows. Loosen the bolts but do not remove them. Use a lump hammer to bang loose the bearing, one side then the other and then the opposing two bolts. The bolts have special large flanges that the socket bears on. This will only work if your bolts are at the back. If they are inside the brake drum (as the original poster) then I am not sure, but he descibes how to do this on an 09 Yaris. The torque for the hub nuts is 38ft lbs or 51NM so not incredibly tight. Good luck with it-my experience of these things is that it is better just to do it at a convenient time, without the pressure of a pending MOT and when the weather is kind, also if the bearing is bad you can send it back as you could just put the old one back on for a while.

16/02/19 first test drive - at that point target delivery was 3rd of May 19/02/19 ordered: AWD Excel, white, white/silver interior, with towbar option - target delivery changed to "18th of May" In April: target delivery changed to 28th of May 25/05/19: the Altair Leader and Daedalus Leader ships, inbound from Nagoya, arrive in the Avonmouth harbour (Bristol) and unload 31/05/19: car confirmed at dealer, requiring PDI and roof wrapping (we like the Dynamic look) Today 10/06/19: car collected (finally!). It could have been a week earlier but I was away.

Just an update on my problems, in case this is helpful to anyone else in the future. I am trying a number of 'cheap fixes' first as some of you suggested: - It's been almost a month now that I have been observing the symptoms. There is a pattern: Engine warning lights (plus VSC+PBK) go off after a couple of days. Then on again after a week or so, or after a number of miles driven (city mainly) with consistent DTCs P1047 + U011B. - Cleaned MAF sensor, just in case, it didn't make any difference. Did not look bad at all when removed. - I have invested on a Techstream adaptor clone and will do the diagnostics again when it arrives. - Off to change oil to the Toyota recommended 0w20 this weekend. - @Konrad C: wonder if your suggestion is worth doing, easy for DIYers: - It does look more like a replacement of the variable lift controller for me as @mrfixer initially suggested, but still hoping to get some further diagnostics done, plus test for power failure to the sensor. - There is a LOAD of info I have obtained from numerous Russian sites, highlights below. Some fellows there are very enthusiastic and have taken the variable lift controller off the engine. Either replaced it themselves with new part or some claim to have been able to fix it. Problem is apparently related to high temperatures and age. One guy blames the led-free factory soldering of the electronic components, which makes them crack under varying temperatures; they've been able to open the kit and re-soldered it with success. Pretty amazing. Which reminds me, my problems started after a 450 mile trip at ~33 C (in the UK!) in congested motorways. Over 6 hours of driving. Not sure whether this is the cause of my issues, but seems consistent to what the Russians are reporting. Same engine and variable lift ECU in the RAV4 and few other models: https://instadigg.com/p/1958847326555990504_6180271962 There's this guy in Tomsk who tests them: Removing the valvematic ECU:

Chuckles - One day, perhaps, I'll have a closer read of the manual!

I was driving when wing mirrors were fitted to the front wings. It was, I believe, due to EU regulations, requiring mirrors to adjustable from inside the car that necessitated moving them to the doors. There were some wing mirrors adjustable from inside the car via Bowden cables, but I guess costs ruled them out for new cars. Don't know the term for mirrors on single seat racing cars, as they don't have doors and mirrors on the wings would be useless. Don't get me started on PIN numbers, LCD displays and people that pronounce aitch as haitch!....................................................nurse.

Engine wise buy what’s in the best overall condition within your budget, the diesel ‘hate’ is largely misplaced if you aren’t averse to a little work and follow some basic common sense. I say that having owned two diesel 4.2’s that each saw out 100k without any engine issues and something close to 350k total on 4.2 & 4.3 diesels in the family and the 4.3 2.2D has known issues. My current 55 plate XTR from November (so the last production run) has been pretty reliable since new, a DMF/Clutch at 80K? was nothing to get excited about and Toyota picked up a decent chunk of it as goodwill without being asked, the SCV’s were free even out of warranty, yes it needs a timing belt every 5yrs/60K, but even the main dealer fixed price isn’t unreasonable (£275). Everyone worries about turbo’s, but if you follow basic common sense (the kind of thing anyone who has ever owned a turbo’d car should do anyway) then they seem to hold up well. The biggest issue is oil starvation followed by carbon buildup on the control rings leading to hesitation/surging. The former is mitigated by regular oil changes using a decent quality oil, drop the sump every 10yrs and check/clean and replace the pickup if you’re genuinely concerned, the latter takes me about 60 seconds to alleviate at each service by manually actuating the mechanism and avoiding supermarket diesel and using millers eco seems to helps minimise/reduce carbon buildup. I say that with the original turbo on 120K, so I like to think I must be doing something right? EGR issues are easily preventable, again use quality fuel, and every few years clean the thing, £2 for brake cleaner and an old toothbrush + 30 minutes of your time isn’t that bad. Even after 95k when I first did my current RAV’s EGR (ran on Shell most of its life), the buildup was very minimal. The 4.2 2.0 D4D lacks a DPF, so no worries on that score. Cheap and reliable at this age are highly subjective terms for a car that has been round the earth four times (100k), by this age/mileage irrespective of engine type, rust and general wear and tear come into play, not so much on the body/chassis (though if you work on your own car, it’s likely at the point where preventative maintenance is a good idea), but things will be starting to wear out and any work that is required, usually leads to more work as parts don’t dismantle as easily and it’s sometimes a false economy to put them back on without renewing them. For example this month I started overhauling my RAV, it has an MOT and no significant issues other than needing a shock absorber and a diff seal, I initially eyeballed the first phase of work at £4-500 for parts including £190 on tyres. By the time I finish, i’ll likely be 50% over the top end of that, unless you look closely and get underneath it, you really won’t see much obvious to show that money has been spent. I could have done things cheaper if I used lesser brands/used parts or just done the bare minimum to keep it road legal, but my point is expect to get your hands dirty - or pay someone else to - sooner rather than later. Rav’s are generally pretty reliable/well built and easy to get along with - we’re on our 4th in the family so far 😉

why oh why i have not seen this guy before!!! will be calling tomorrow thanks tp94

I am really surprised that at a routine service the refrigerent pressure is checked in the air con. It looks to me like a garage looking for some work. If you have had the car 9 years, have you just had the aircon serviced, otherwise why not picked up before. Fishy!

You may be sceptical, but switching to BP Ultimate, actually improved my Aygo's road handling and braking efficiency 🙄

The genuine Toyota hub/bearing and ABS sensor unit was quoted as £356 by my local Toyota dealer for our 04 1.3 Yaris a little while ago when I did one of mine. Therer are lots of pattern spares on e bay for around £28-£40. However I bought one which fixed the ABS problem I had but then had an MOT advisory for play in the (new) bearing. After much hassle I got a refund and ordered another from a different supplier. I fitted that one and there was play in it, again more resistance to giving me a refund. Different makes but both faulty. I eventually bought from these https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/carpartsgermany2016?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 It is a very easy job although the 4 shoulder securing bolts need a long socket extension to get at and soaking in penetrating oil helps to free off these very tight bolts. By the time I had done it 3 times I could get one off and a new one fitted in about 1/2 an hour. You need a tiny flat screwdriver to push down a plastic tab that holds in the sensor to the hub. Good luck with it

I've tried this on my Yaris and it still switches everything off. I still have to press the start button to switch the radio back on.

I'm not very active on this forum anymore, so please PM me if anyone wants a PCB plus necessary components. I still have at least 3 PCBs left.