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    oldcodger

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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/13/2019 in all areas

  1. The car is booked in for a check and an MOT tomorrow afternoon. I've told them that the wishbone bolt needs tightening and just to give it a check. But last night I drove it a little further and that really is the only knock I can hear and it's under me where the bolt was a bit troublesome. The number plate came in the post today, the guys did a grand job on it. The wife is less impressed with her tribute however...
    2 points
  2. Good that you have got the ball rolling with CAD. but do get other quote /suggestions from the other big online car audio places, to mention just one - eg https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/ Cannot help with the rear screens, never used them , but again a Google search should bring some info /help - https://www.driving.co.uk/news/products/products-in-car-headrest-dvd-player-head-to-head-review/
    1 point
  3. you might find this of use https://www.toyota-tech.eu/aimuploads/{21BA5C89-3C95-4B2D-B9E7-A5339C11349B}/ICE RHD AIM 000 094-2 PZ462-E8371-00 PZ457-00370-00.pdf & from https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/100551-replacement-dvd-player/ you may be able to connect a new player to connections in the rear console
    1 point
  4. Think if you can check the clutch plate is still in line by using a rod or something similar through the cover. As well as a trolley jack to raise the gearbox up off the floor, I used a beam and chain that allowed it to be suspended and therefor a lot easier to wrestle around to get it to engage with the plate, it does go in with a bit of a push, the relief when it does is quiet something after all that sweat !
    1 point
  5. Would say the best way would be to select one or two head units that meet you needs /price range then find out whats needed to connect them all up. Toyota have there own wiring standard so you need various adapters so check out with the makers and suppliers to confirm what they have that works/fits .eg. - http://connects2.com/ http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/contact-us A simple search on these forums shows the odd verso din unit - see the last entry to this one and search yourself for any more. https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/111229-2002-corolla-verso-double-din-install/?tab=comments#comment-1007047 Cannot help with the rear screens but again try the 'Search' box above. - being 13 year old tech, which is very old in that sense, doubt you can do much with them other than replace with modern new aftermaket ones.
    1 point
  6. If no one offers any specific help, think you need to look around those online places in more detail. This page shows Verso specific adapters -http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/install-adaptors?cat=1060 This one of 5 pages of double Din units with all the bells etc http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/head-units?cat=63 As well as speaking direct to CAD you might find checking out the Connect2 site to ensure their adapters will work ok - they should know ! Single Din and Double Din is an industry wide fitment standard . As for options 1 to 5 , you gets what you pays for, or buy a far east cheapy with no realistic warranty. Don't forget sound the is only as good as the speakers, I replaced mine with some Pioneers, such an improvement I did not bother changing the head unit. As for the rear screens, never read about doing anything with them, but again, search all the Toyota forums to see if anything shows up anything.
    1 point
  7. Hi, You will find some of the online ICE shops like this one a good place to look and buy, used them myself. http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?cat=&q=toyota+corolla+verso As you will see from that Accessories page they have a variety of fitting for the Verso, but do double check they are for your exact model. You will have to check if the steering wheel controls can be used via an adapter as they are not compatible with none Toyota head units. Have not been in a Verso but assume your radio will also show mgp figures etc and they will be lost , as there is no conversion for that function. Sound wise, replacing the front speakers will give you a really big improvement, as I did , also fitting some with separate tweeters at dash level. There have been quiet a lot of posts about fitting new head units, though mainly the standard Corolla, but if you search this forum you will find some details, hopefully of help.
    1 point
  8. Just a quick update, I got a letter from Goodyear giving me some money back for the tyres (55% for each one) so quite a good result even though it took a while.
    1 point
  9. I am fairly certain that these will be 5x114.3 with a bore of 60.1. These are the same as the Auris & the 2009> Avensis T27 (also earlier 2.4 petrol & 2.2 diesel Avensis T25) & certainly some RAV4s. You will need to check offsets (although if you are close you'll be OK). Wheels from those won't be type-approved for your car though (at least in the UK some insurers will care about that, some won't as long as the specs. match). Don't know what C1 C refers to, sorry. Steel & alloy wheels usually require different bolts or you get wear issues (they may also require a different seat flat v cone). My Avensis allows for the car learning 2 sets of TPMS so that you can easily swap between summer & winter - hopefully Corolla similar. I just run my winters without & put up with the warning light (i wasn't paying the money for another 4 Toyota oem sensors). When it comes time for it to be checked for it's MOT it will be on the summers with working TPMS.
    1 point
  10. Try resetting the system by disconnecting the car battery for say 10 minutes.
    1 point
  11. Not in our experience. We've had air con in both cars since 1998, and have used air con plus the heater to demist since then. The air con provides dehumidified air to the windscreen. An extract from an RAC article, where they recommend the use of air con when demisting, in the following topic makes interesting reading, and also doesn't support your theory:
    1 point
  12. After nine years it isn't unreasonable to need a regas. Five years would be considered pretty good on most cars. My wife's VW only managed two years on its first charge! (Although, to be fair, VW did recharge it under warranty ,and it was still good five years later when we sold it.) The issue, as I understand it, is that the refrigerant gas molecules are small enough to slip through the tiny microscopic pores in every flexible joint, no matter how tightly you seal it. So, over the years, a fair number of them are bound to get away. Nothing particularly suspicious about it.
    1 point
  13. 1 point
  14. They are not 100% sealed and, in spite of what some might tell you, do lose some gas over time. The biggest culprit is the compressor's shaft seal. That's why it is recommended to run the system over the colder months. Even around 10 minutes a week is sufficient. I had mine "regassed" last year, local garage, and over the four years it had lost about 30g of refrigerant. Capacity and type of gas should be on a plate under the bonnet. UV dye added to the system, a Sniffer" and/or pulling and holding a vacuum will determine whether there are any potential leaks. All done using a dedicated machine which extracts the old gas and oil and adds the correct amount of gas and oil. My system is essentially tight in spite of the small loss.
    1 point
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