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The day finally came on 13th July 2019. My new car arrived to the dealership on Friday and after they added the Toyota protect to the outside and the inside, we picked it up on Saturday. I have to say, the pictures don't do the car justice in this case. I'm so glad we went with the red color because it's stunning! It looks great on pictures but has an extra WOW effect in person. I went all in on the car, 2.0 hybrid, panoramic roof, HUD. JBL and Adaptive suspension were the only things I didn't go for. I'll add some pictures so everyone can see 🙂 As for the car itself, coming from a 2006 Ford Fiesta 1.4 TDCi, this feels like a space shuttle 😄 The level of noise in the car can't even be compared, the ride comfort, acceleration, ease of driving. I really feel like I'm driving in a premium class and brand car.

You are all overthinking this. Firstly, Toyota don't make brake pads - like most Toyota parts, they are sourced from an outside supplier. Secondly, there are really only two big friction material suppliers in Europe, they supply the friction material which is pressed and bonded to the backing plate. Within the braking industry there is lots of rebranding, so the pads branded as 'Bosch' are manufactured by a third party - most likely Pagid. The Pagid brand is owned by TMD Friction, which also owns the Textar, Mintex, Don and various other brands. The upshot of this is just make sure that the components meet R90 standard (means they are within +/- 15% of OE spec). Personally I have never had a problem with TMD parts (Mintex, Pagid, branded).

If you've got the new model with All Wheel Drive, you might have come across this display that sits below the "Drive Info" & "Energy Monitor" displays in the speedo's screen. As well as showing the direction the front wheels are pointing, which wheels are providing torque and whether any wheels are spinning, if you select Sport Mode it gains an additional g-force meter with a trace showing g-force history. Don't suppose I'll ever really need it, but looks cool!

Insist that the dealer fixes the car, or reject it and get your money back, and have a clear head. Whoever sold the car probably sold it because of that issue. just FYI, these transmission often have issues with clutch actuator, i'd personally go for the manual.

Press the power button once without your foot on the brake, that will bring up accessory mode. The radio is now available (along with other media sources). Press it a second time without your foot on the brake and you'll get "ignition" mode, where the ventilation system and other electrics will be available. Press it again and everything goes off. Note that you wouldn't want to do this for very long as the 12v battery isn't large like it is in non-hybrid cars.

I have them in my car but to be honest at night if there's no street lighting (proper dark) they are a bit to bright, I'm thinking of taking mine out. If you fit them (which is quite a fiddle) make sure you test them as they are polarised before you put all the dash back.

I think I was far from asking for a perfect response. That would have been to repair the car (which oddly you were offered) as well as recompense for the tints. In the end I got neither. All I wanted was £60 to redo the tints. I went into the whole thing very diplomatically and didnt raise a fuss. I was shown the hand from the outset. I am not sure that this recall is any more noble than on any other brand of car. Its dangerous (in fact you yourself titled this thread as such) and I wouldnt expect anything less from any other manufacturer. In fact I think it should have been issued/brought to task far earlier. There were numerous reports (which did reach Toyota) a very long time before they confirmed the defect. I do accept that some other manufacturers use the same delay tactics, but to suggest the recall for the Aygo windows is in some way better than other car makers...no, sorry I dont buy that. Repair is holding well and I have no doubt it will continue. I have used 291i on boats before and once cured its not going anywhere. The only way to remove it is to cut it out as it wont shear/tear nor, once bonded to a suitable surface, detach.

It was in response to Frosty. Your post slipped in just before mine.

Your Clio was certainly a shining example of what can achieved. I've had the my A/C recharged twice, once at 4yrs and once at 8yrs, not because of issues but just as preventative maintenance. I felt after the first recharge that it was genuinely better and then didn't really notice any difference after the second. Like you I keep it on 24/7 I suppose we should all check the vent temperatures on our new and recently regassed cars and then keep that as a baseline to see if deterioration has occurred at any future point in time.

Did you scroll down the page? £59 is for an 'air con service', £39 for just a regas. Personally I would be inclined to get it done because if it is slightly low on charge then it will only get even lower over the next 12 months. Published figures for 'natural' leakage for R134a A/C systems seem to vary from 5% to 20% annually so even at the lower end of that scale the loss adds up significantly over time.

im not sure, but can i use a 2zz ge cylindred head in a 1zz fe block? only experinces plase.

That is a rear pad from my Avensis. It isn't clear because the focus isn't very good but, inside the little square on the back of the pad it says Pagid. So, it's an original Toyota pad for a Bosch caliper stamped Pagid. You just don't know what you are getting. Go to Toyota and get the originals. Or buy Bosch and get the originals. Or buy Pagid and get the originals. The choice is yours. All brake pads create dust, it's a by-product of the wearing process, you can't stop it.

My Avensis is the Icon Business Edition 1.8 petrol Tourer. Its saloon equivalent 0 to 62 mph official performance is 9.4 seconds. Not bad, even compared to more modern cars. Interestingly 0 - 62 mph for the same Avensis 2.0 diesel version is 9.7 seconds and for the 2.2 diesel it's 9.5 seconds, suggesting the petrol is quickest of the three! (Up to 62mph at least). In my experience the petrol engine version is quiet and refined but if you choose to drive it hard it will accelerate quickly enough; but then the engine sound becomes quite raucous. It's not a great performer going up hills unless you keep the revs up and use the gears. I expect the diesels will be better in this respect. However, it cruises effortlessly on the motorways and although not important to me, it's quick enough for my purposes.

They are still updating the older TNS systems from the 00s (e.g. TNS700) with current data so I imagine that they still are for a 2011.

Looking at the pictures online, you can now lay stuff across the back seat without the lump in the middle getting in the way. Picture 2 in the gallery https://www.toyota.co.uk/new-cars/prius-plugin/

Thanks for that. I have messed around with it quite a lot but the buttons on the mount still dont do anything. (The other issues were resolved to an extent by the way)

In the interests of dodgy science, I've done some more playing with Charge mode as well. 1. It appears to be a terrible idea to do the 'fifty-fifty' approach of charge/EV mode on normal journeys away from motorways/dual carriageways, if you are seeking to maximise economy. That makes sense, because by doing so you will actually reduce the time spent in EV mode. I routinely see well above 60% of the journey with the engine off when in HV mode, so forcing the engine to run for 50% of the time is bound to have a negative effect. On my commute of 32 miles, it seems to trash economy by 10-15mpg. 2. It is a far less terrible idea to do 'fifty-fifty' on the motorway, which is the approach Tony has posted about. A brief experiment on a mainly dual carriageway journey netted me 85mpg on the way out using HV mode and 81mpg on the way back doing a 'half and half' with charge mode. That's not a saving, but it's close enough with all the other variables involved, and far closer than what I managed on my commute. It should also be noted I am sad enough to have spent years learning how to maximise HV mode economy in a range of hybrids. For someone who is less interested in all that nonsense and just wants to drive, I could well imagine switching between Charge mode and EV mode would yield better results to the point of it being more economical.

Which is obviously easier said than done for blind or partially sighted people, and not all blind people have a guide dog. Thread locked.

Every time you turn the car off the odometer is displayed on the MFD screen. It's not difficult to work out when the next service is due, by just looking at the odometer each time you turn off the car, when it's a 10,000 mile interval is it. 🙄