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The Most fantastic dealer handover experience I have very had. Amazing effort from Shelbourn Motors Portadown. Thanks to Richard & Steven. I’m loving my new Rav 4. Hope you don’t mind the pics.

There is very little scope for power increases from a naturally aspirated petrol without having major engine work done. The Sedox link posted above suggests a 10 bhp improvement which is about the limit of what a remap can achieve with this type of engine.

I’m picking mine up in the morning. My dealer has done some research and orders going in this week will have a delivery date of June 2020. Massive shortage of batteries, raw materials are produced in Congo and Congo are starting to hold car companies to ransom on price and time. Also shortage on moon roof. Mine might actually be only NI car with moonroof for some time. As for braking problem, it didn’t affect every model and any that required repair were done quickly at the ports only delaying deliveries by a week or two.

Part number 161A0-29015 £266.01 + vat from your local Toyota dealer, includes gasket but you will need Super long life coolant part number 08889-80072 for 5Lt

The links i gave you are full instructions on troubleshooting, from Toyota, with step by step, so it would be beneficial to get a Toyota Techstream cable Cable goes for around 10-15 GBP, and combined with Techstream software that you install on your laptop, that comes with it (pirated, but you can always pay..) you can get the full on Toyota diagnostic You should be able to check some values in Techstream, which should more or less lead you to the cause of the problem. I would not blindly throw cash at a part without checking diagnostic, esp since it would cost next to nothing compared to potential money spent on fixing the car. You can get the cable on ebay and like. 5th Injector is used for DPF cleaning, it was also the culprit of the issue on the topic below. Here's an example of some great troubleshooting using Techstream

Like I said, there is divided opinion about whether the MMT system is 'nice' to use, so get used to it and make your own mind up. I was very happy with my Yaris during it's first year, and had I not got the chance to buy a 3rd generation Prius Hybrid for a very good price I would have kept it much longer, but in the event I sold it cheap to my Ex who remains delighted with it. I used to drive her Aygo MMT a fair bit and enjoyed that too. The MMT system is still used in the current Aygo, and I requested one as a loan car a year or two back while mine was being serviced, and found they had made the gear changes slightly smoother since the Mk 1 Aygo. The system certainly works better in the Yaris though, as the Aygo is lighter and less able to soak up the odd jerky change. My friend's wife bought her 2008 model about 4 years ago, not sure what mileage, but has been trouble free ever since. One thing, it might be worth checking with a dealer whether the rear window recall has been done - if not, they will do it free of charge, to prevent a very small risk of the rear windows' bonding failing and them falling out. It was recently done on my friend's wife's car and personally, I find it reassuring that Toyota is prepared to do preventative work like this on an 11 year old car. Otherwise, if you or someone you know is ok with web sites, you can sign you to MyToyota and see a service history for your car which should tell you if it's been done.

that's true except for if you whack the accelerator very hard, it snaps out of the warm-up cycle and the engine joins the party again. I guess this is to ensure there's always enough power for an emergency escape. The way the engine seemingly is divorced from power delivery during warm-up (subject to above exception) and does it's own thing to warm up quickly, leaving the car behaving like a true EV, blew me away when I got my first Prius in 2002, and still fascinates me after every cold start 17 years and 320,000 miles later.

Pete has already said this but a copy and paste off t'internet "Parking: Unlike an automatic car, the P gear is absent in a MMT car. The car should be parked in the following fashion. In an up-sloping incline, put the gear to M1, or E, apply handbrake, and switch off the engine. In a down-sloping incline, put the gear to R, apply handbrake, and switch off the engine. On level ground, put the gear to R, apply handbrake, and switch off the engine. R or E/M1 substitute the P function in a full automatic. " Yes, as he also says, footbrake applied and select gear desired. Footbrake also, if memory serves, to start. I've owned one, Claire, a 2010 car too. I have to agree with Mike this has to be the worse transmission I've ever driven, or tried to drive. Toyota realised their error and used a CVT with the Mk 3 Yaris. If you can afford to "trade up" a year then do so. I took a financial hit with the one I had, it was that bad. A shame really because it was an excellent car otherwise. Added to the fact it is now 9 years old and could well be requiring attention in the not too distant future. That will be potentially very expensive.

a fabulous car enjoy . I am 😀

In terms of maintaining its value then I would say at 7 years old the value of a main dealer history becomes less important. Provided a service history is maintained then overall condition is what potential buyers will look for. OK that said... I've always used main dealers until the last couple of years for both our Corolla which is 16 years old and my 9.5 year old Auris (which is pristine and has had dry weather use only). These last two years have seen me start using a small independent garage and tbh I've been very pleased indeed. The Toyota service/mot for older cars seems like good value and in terms of cost alone it is, however all you really get is an oil/filter change and a long list of 'checks', the majority of which are covered by an MOT anyway. The independent has been far more thorough and has detailed preventative work carried out such as applying grease to parts of the brake lines to prevent further corrosion (on the Corolla) and charging only for parts for minor items. For example, although the last MOT was passed they commented that the orange front indicator bulbs were loosing their orange colour due to deterioration of the applied coating or whatever on the bulbs themselves. All done for just the cost of a couple of bulbs <£5. A 'free' courtesy car (new Kia Picanto) was an added bonus. Quite a lot of little things that all add up to a good impression.

Just to be clear, there is no P (Park) position on the Yaris (or Aygo) MMT selector. It will only start in N, but the manual recommends leaving it in R or E (for Easy - same as D[rive] in a normal auto) when parking on a slope - use the one that would go uphill - so if facing uphill use E, facing downhill use R - this is to safely support the handbrake as there is no Park function. The picture below shows the left hand drive version, on a right hand drive the - M + manual positions would be closest to the driver's knee. The only way to get to N from E or R is to turn the ignition on, foot on brake, and move the lever. Never caused any problems on our 2 cars with MMT, nor on that of a friend's wife who has the other 2008 Aygo. Many people do criticise this transmission, but also many on various Aygo and Yaris sites claim to love it. Two people I know who have them (one a 2008 Aygo, the other a 2011 Yaris 1.33 that was mine for the first year) are in the love it category. The Yaris, now 8 years old and owned by my ex-partner has done nearly 40,000 miles (including the 17,000 I did in the year I had it) and is still running just fine. Before that she had a 2008 Aygo MMT for 4 years and 38,000 miles, again never put a foot wrong (a different person to the one mentioned above) They give some of the benefits of automatic in that there's no clutch pedal and you can leave it to manage things on it's own (E position), and the advantages are that it's cheaper to buy when new than a normal auto and tends to give the same or slightly better mpg than the manual. If the driver wishes, the selector can me moved to M (Manual) and use the + to change up a gear or - to change down (the car ignores you if the engine won't support that gear at the current speed). Some models also have paddles behind the steering wheel (marked + or -) that you can pull to change gear. I don't think either of these ladies have ever used the manual change, and I hardly ever used it myself when I had the Yaris. Yes, they can be expensive to repair if they go wrong, but so can any transmission, especially a conventional auto. Certain amount of luck and how it's been looked after.

Thanks everyone for the information, yes the filter does stink, and that's without the help of the Peugeots ! Thanks Ten Ninety, saved me from explaining that one. Dimensions if your going to do the job 225 x 186 x 30 some are 1 or 2 mm different. If you search for the the late model years you are met with lots and lots of the earlier versions Check the dimensions. American video here. Drop door, damper clip off (finger job), push stop clips in right then left, givers more leverage that way, door drops down and it pulls off the hinges straight back towards you. You can do it with it on the hinges but it will probably drop off anyway. NOTE our filter housing has the slide in tabs on the right, clips on the left. Though it does have a clip on the right that does nothing. Note the orientation of the filter tray, the two ribs are at the bottom, and note the filter FITS in the TRAY. One Chinese video shows pulling the tray and filter out, then putting back just the filter! There is a rib going across the tray and this should slip in between the folds as you replace the filter. The filter has either up arrow or air flow on it. Replacements are between £8 and £50 so check what you are getting. Most ( some strange unknown brands crop up) apart from the Chinese versions are from OEM companies, maybe not Toyota but they should be of very good standard. Unfortunately Which has not got round to testing the Best Buy yet

Hi Claire. How do I put this? Many people think the MMT gearbox is probably the worst gearbox Toyota have ever made. My personal advise is part exchange it for another Toyota with either a manual or a fully automatic gearbox and suffer the financial loss. To get it repaired you are looking at over £2k and then there is no g'tee it will be OK. Sorry hun my advise would be to get rid of the car and if you get another Toyota that has not got a MMT gearbox fitted or a different make altogether. Sorry mate, that's the best advise I can give. The fact you bought it privately I am unsure where the legal side of things are. I wish you well, Mike.

Thanks, Paulinho. I've wanted one for a very long time and it has definitely been worth the wait.

Driven through a few times, and cycled through a few times too. Boring to drive through and ditto cycling through too. What I've noticed, is that the drivers brake hard for the roundabouts, go through, then accelerate hard away, then to brake hard half a mile later to go round the next one, then accelerate hard again and then repeat endlessly and habitually and regularly. The best way to do all this stuff, is to relax and drive gently ............. but they don't. Hence the wearing of the left front tyres, the wearing of the brakes, and the excess fuel consumption. Honestly, all they need to do is to relax!!!!! They would save a fortune. Mick.

This is roughly a 2,000 mile update. So the major point is that I tracked down what the knocking sound was - turned out the nut for the front right shock absorber wasn't tight enough. Tightened it down and it's been a dream ever since. I drove to Hereford about two/three weeks ago for a wedding and I was late, and it gave me the opportunity to tackle the single lane country roads early on a Saturday morning. The car is even more stable and planted than I first thought and it's a dream to drive now really. Power is suspect still, this is down to the cone. I've decided to get rid of it in 4,000 miles time when I do it's service (every 6,000 miles on this thing!). I'm going to get the K&N flat panel air filter and see what happens. In the boot I've started putting in a new "floor" to make the most of the wheel well space. So the idea is to build a box type of thing in the wheel well and for there to be a hatch on it, so I can keep the air compressor and tyre gunk in there as well as a few essentials. That's as far as I've gotten with it due to other commitments now but I'll knock it out over the coming weeks when I get chance. I got hold of a black vinyl sun strip for the car too, which was a lot thicker than normal. I went for a plain black strip just to see what i'd be like. So far it's been good, keeping the sun out of my eyes just above the mirror. I made a mistake with the application of the vinyl which left a noticable mark. No worries though, as I ordered a sticker by mistake (it was the wrong size) but it was big enough to cover the defect. Finally added the obligatory "Made in Japan" stickers on the sides of the car: I've purchased some speakers to replace the standard ones in the Corolla. Nothing fancy, although I wanted to get Pioneer speakers to match the head unit. They're 3 way speakers, so will be a little better than what is there already. They're mounted differently though so I will have to mess about fabricating brackets etc. It'll be the next proper job I do on the car actually. And, other than checking the engine for oil, I've no complaints - other than the power. Fuel economy wise it's back up to 320 miles on the full tank which is the same as what it was before. Hence why the cone is doesn't nothing. Although I will say the high pitch whine I got when doing 60mph has gone. All that means is I'm going to tape up every joint so there are no air leaks!

Nice video!

Ooof! Slick 're-branding' going on here.... 2sav

Cheers Brian, glad yours is doing well.

What you have there is known in the industry as 'creep-groan'. Its a low-frequency high-intensity self-excited oscillation of the pad-disc system. Its due to stick-slip between the pad and disc and depends on the pad/disc characteristics. It is a very common phenomenon and not a defect. You may find that as the pads bed-in and glaze slightly the noise will diminish. Don't worry about it.

Try not to be an a*seh*le when others are attempting to be helpful - it’s not a good trait!

I’ve just had a successful diagnosis for this issue, which may also link to why some people have mentioned - even had success with - changing the fuel cap. The issue finally diagnosed has been the fuel rail/fuel rail sensors. The fuel rail has sensors which control and release pressure within the fuel system. If these sensors on the fuel rail fail to work correctly pressure within the fuel system is lost at inappropriate times, causing loss of power. The solution, unfortunately, is to replace the full fuel rail as the sensors are an integral part of the rail rather than separate items. An interim step is to use a fuel cleaner first and see if the rail has just become blocked, but that didn’t result in curing the problem for me. A recovered/second hand fuel rail is also apparently not recommended as this may carry the same fault (so a potential ‘throwing-good-money-after-bad’ solution). For a while my investigations had been following the route of issues with the DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) recommended from a previous posting, which had seemed like the most sensible solution to the symptoms I was experiencing, and I was at the point of paying substantial money for this to be investigated. However, the people who discovered it was the fuel rail told me this would be an unlikely problem in RAVs over 2010, as they have a regeneration process that occurs not only when travelling above 50mph, but a secondary process that occurs when the vehicle is only driven at low speed (ie in the RAVs if the regeneration processes are working, build up should not occur even if rarely travelling above 50mph). Replacing the fuel rail is also about one-third the price of managing/cleaning the DPF, So I’d suggest you start with investigating the fuel rail first! Like many people on here this problem has not only been an absolute nightmare to discover/solve, but has had the potential for me to have spent many thousands£ on solutions that had nothing to do with the problem. The solution to this problem was - in the end - not even found by Toyota dealerships. I was fortunate in my troubleshooting that I had a good dealership who questioned solution recommendations from Toyota headquarters that were incredibly expensive (failure/replacement of the full engine management system, etc) otherwise I could have poured thousands£ down the drain trying to resolve this. Although I love my RAV dearly, I’m pretty disgusted with Toyota, their ownership of this issue (I’ve not been able to sell or trade in my RAV while it’s had this issue), and their treatment of owners who have this issue. Why they don’t have system codes that correctly direct engineers to what this fault is instead of misdirection towards ABS and 4WD failure is absolutely beyond me. I’ve had to drive round for years with this problem occurring and no one able to solve it. Finally, if wasn’t solved by Toyota either. That’s pretty disgraceful. Re the previous postings about success from changing the fuel cap, if this is successful for you I’d advise still keeping awareness of this fuel rail issue because it could be sensor issues are starting and if the problems reoccur look to the fuel rail next rather than the expensive DPF. Hope this helps everyone!

Look at www.fensport.co.uk Here is a pic. of my carina 2.0 GTI with the genIII 3s-ge engine with 175 bhp