Leaderboard

Part number 161A0-29015 £266.01 + vat from your local Toyota dealer, includes gasket but you will need Super long life coolant part number 08889-80072 for 5Lt

I think the big elephant sat in the corner is asking how much you have spent so far and how much would a used engine cost and normally this is the best option rather than rebuilding these engines ,as I don't think I've heard of one that's lasted a few months after expensive rebuild . I feel sorry for you but you may need to throw in the towel and admit defeat for your own mental health wise

Thanks for the links, I'll have a read through them both tonight.

Thanks very much mike, I ordered the pressure regulator valve last night so hopefully I receive it asap. I am narrowing down the search for the fault! I will replace this part first then if there is still trouble I will then switch the SCV, I think that is as much as I can do,, lastly will be the injectors but hopefully it will be the pressure regulator valve, appreciate the time taken to reply thanks

Hi. Fuel must come through lines at an ideal pressure to keep your engine running properly. A fault in the system can cause for the system to over fuel and increase pressure beyond the ideal range. The fuel system on your Toyota is controlled by the fuel pressure regulator and most problems with over fueling will come from this part, or wiring to it. When there is a problem with pressure in the system, a trouble code from the vehicle's ECM is stored; when the problem is too much pressure, the dashboard will illuminate the SES or check engine light to indicate that code P1229 has been stored in your vehicle's ECM. The most common causes of this code are: Defective fuel pressure regulator Fuel pressure regulator stuck open Faulty wiring/fuel pump wiring Faulty ECM The symptoms of a defective fuel pressure regulator usually include a lack of fuel pressure, but it has been known to also increase fuel pressure instead. Much of the time, if your system is overloaded with fuel, the regulator is stuck open -- this causes the engine to become flooded with fuel, resulting in poor performance and backfiring. Another common culprit is the wiring for the fuel pump. If all other problems have been determined to not be at fault, it is possible, but unlikely, that the ECM is faulty. Some problems of a faulty ECM include stalling, loss of power, and erratic shifting for automatics. Regards. Mike.

Thanks to all. I get a IQ this sunday/monday 🙂

Hi. Interesting topic. Very occasionally I find my Rav 4 unlocked in the morning and I know I locked it the previous night, push start/stop button also. Something close to me, maybe my neighbour who has an Audi or whatever unlocks it. It starts and works perfectly and no trouble in that dep't at all. Mine has a feature (I Believe) if you unlock it and the doors are not opened within I am guessing 3 mins they self lock again but no it stays unlocked but not 100% sure on this one. Another interesting point which might help you Brian is I worked in garages for most of my life and one customers car wouldn't start outside his house so we towed it 1/2 a mile away and it started first time so something local to him was 'playing with his anti start/theft system. An AA man told me this is not uncommon and he had done it several times with the same result. Good luck, Mike.

P1271 is a fault in the fuel pressure discharge circuit. One of the potential issues is no signal from the EDU to the ECU and from your description - it sounds like your Toyota dealer has traced the fault to the EDU. A dealer will simply quote you a replacement from the Toyota parts list so it's not a case of being ripped off. However before contemplating this - speak to ECU Repairs. The unit may well be repairable at a fraction of new cost. It would be a case of posting the EDU and it would be returned in a couple of days - so a job for your mechanic to remove and install - there's no programming involved. If it can't be fixed there's just a modest handling charge

Although the 433 MHz frequency is far removed from navigation radar frequencies (8 to 12 GHz), these have been known to disable some remote controls (BMWs come to mind). I'm not suggesting this problem is necessarily caused by a radar (although if Brain lives near a port or airport...), but to illustrate that interference does not have to emanate from a source at the same frequency.

Thanks Paul Here are the main thread links to the progress on both my cars: https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=407726 https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=382716 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Most fantastic dealer handover experience I have very had. Amazing effort from Shelbourn Motors Portadown. Thanks to Richard & Steven. I’m loving my new Rav 4. Hope you don’t mind the pics.

Check the hybrid battery cooling fan, if the fan is clogged / blocked the Hybrid battery can start to get too hot and possibly overheat ( will then give a fault code ) symptoms of this are: Engine running longer/harder when driving / idling Reduction is fuel economy Remove the RHR boot trims, pull the fan out and clean the crud out, refit then add the intake filter (G92DH-47010) to prevent further blockages ( clean filter every 10k )

Protects against chips, moisture, etc, mostly used in winter

Toyota in UK (Europe) should be using frequency of 433 Mhz for keyless entry system. Same frequencies in UK are assigned to licensed radio amateurs, with output power being 26 dbW for frequencies from 432 until 440 MHz . It could be that you have a radio amateur nearby, which is interfering with your signal, fits the story of sometimes working, sometimes not. You can buy jammers for this online, but they come with omnidirectional antennas, and are very short ranged, but that would mean also your neighbors would experience the same issue. Yes, you can make a directed antenna, but i doubt anyone would actually go that far. I doubt anyone is doing this intentionally.

Those batteries hate the slightest bit of oil/moisture from your fingers. Just one to watch for.

If I close the doors with a bit more force, i would also get a temporary no key detected warning, but goes away after few seconds. The tip from Heidfirst is actually a safeguard from Toyota, in case your battery gets empty, you could still start the car by putting the Toyota eblem towards the button. As asked above, but still not answered, does this happen at other places, or only in front of your house? Could also be that the replacement battery you bought has sat on the shelf for few years and the charge was almost none when you used it, but this is a long shot.

doesn't your fob conceal a mechanical key (I know that my Avensis with keyless did)? Have you tried starting the car by placing the fob against the start button?

Are you near a mobile mast? Providers are beginning to test/introduce 5G networks and that might explain what has changed.

It could be radio interference, though why it should start happening just now is another question ... Can you confirm that both cars are (or may be) affected at home but never have a problem anywhere else? If so, local interference does seem likely ...

If you are an diy person best is to get work done by yourself. Plenty of info here and other websites what and how to service, follow manual too and nothing to worry about it.

There is very little scope for power increases from a naturally aspirated petrol without having major engine work done. The Sedox link posted above suggests a 10 bhp improvement which is about the limit of what a remap can achieve with this type of engine.

Driven through a few times, and cycled through a few times too. Boring to drive through and ditto cycling through too. What I've noticed, is that the drivers brake hard for the roundabouts, go through, then accelerate hard away, then to brake hard half a mile later to go round the next one, then accelerate hard again and then repeat endlessly and habitually and regularly. The best way to do all this stuff, is to relax and drive gently ............. but they don't. Hence the wearing of the left front tyres, the wearing of the brakes, and the excess fuel consumption. Honestly, all they need to do is to relax!!!!! They would save a fortune. Mick.

Which, oddly enough, was how I came to purchase mine last year. At the time, steep initial depreciation on the PHV plus low demand meant that at 12-18 months old there were quite a few PHVs available for less money than an equivalent Gen 4 ordinaire. In the time I was searching, it wasn't unusual for the cheapest Prius Excel with <10k miles on Auto Trader to be a PHV. Not sure if that is still the case, as I haven't checked prices recently. That said, nobody sane buys a new PHV because they want to save money. Nobody sane buys a new BEV for that reason, either. As Geoff said above, going 'green' is not an economic decision. However, very few new car purchases are economic decisions or else we'd all be smugly tootling about in Dacia Sanderos or trying our luck in the classifieds with a bit of bangernomics. I bought my PHV because I found it aesthetically pleasing (or at least less ugly than the standard Gen4), I wanted the adaptive headlights (which turned out to be hopeless), I wanted the joy of driving in EV mode for extended periods and I had a serious thing for that carbon fibre tailgate! Even though I paid less than what an equivalent standard Gen4 would have cost me, I fully expect the PHV will cost me more in the long term because its depreciation will almost certainly continue to be steeper. However, I do not care, because it brings me joy every day.

What you have there is known in the industry as 'creep-groan'. Its a low-frequency high-intensity self-excited oscillation of the pad-disc system. Its due to stick-slip between the pad and disc and depends on the pad/disc characteristics. It is a very common phenomenon and not a defect. You may find that as the pads bed-in and glaze slightly the noise will diminish. Don't worry about it.