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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/05/2019 in all areas

  1. I think they are a good car if you are realistic as to what you are buying . 1) they don't like to be hustled off the mark once moving into second then they pull really nice ( if rushed of mark they rev to quick and 1st is over before you know and your over revving the old girl ) short shifting is your friend with this car. 2) if you are going to tune it I wouldn't bother its quick enough ,your only burn out the clutch and flywheel £1000 3) run quality diesel and make sure it has a 40 minute run at 2k revs and 50mph if dpf fitted once a week idling in traffic all week on school runs will do it no favours . 4) invest in quality tyres and decent brake pads (if your a roundabout to roundabout racing junkie) of course this is only my opinion mine was. 2012 2.2 estate
    2 points
  2. yes it’s also good to use on cross channel Ferry’s especially if its a rough crossing if it’s not turned off and the ship rolls it may trigger the car alarm
    2 points
  3. As @Mike169 posted it allows you to leave the windows open a hot day. It proved useful the week before last.
    2 points
  4. Hi Anthony. I think you will find it is to turn the interior sensors off if say you leave somebody in the car but you leave it for a short while to pop to the shops or whatever. The car detects movement on the inside so this will make the alarm sound so just by pressing this button, it will not stay in or out but just pressing it deactivates the internal movement sensors so if you are wanting to lock the car with even say a dog inside but you feel the need to lock your car up, the engine will still not start, the button only works on the movement sensors. Regards, Mike.
    2 points
  5. just to let others know.... I have a Touring Sports with Keyless fob. I've read about thieves sending signals to your fob in your home to start your car. I bought a Mission Darkness Faraday bag for Keyfobs from Amazon for £17 to keep my keyfob in overnight. I tested this faraday shielding bag with the Faraday test app, and it gave so much more shielding that other faraday bags out there I also went to Settings on the car and disabled SmartEntry&StartSystem (so now I have press the Start button with the fob to start the car): I think this further reduces chances of KeylessEntryTheft While I was there, I changed setting such that my double clicking the lock button on my fob, it Double Locks the door locks. I suppose that's also good right? But I don't know why that doesn't come as default! Hope people find this helpful. Do leave comments if I've done something whacky! I'm new to this forum, and find people Really friendly!
    1 point
  6. but on a hybrid you will get brake regen. but you can't buy the Corolla saloon with the 1.2T (or indeed the 2.0 Hybrid powertrain) in the UK - 1.8 hybrid only.
    1 point
  7. There was a Technical service bulletin for something similar: EG-0014T-0114 Subject: 1AD-FTV V-Belt abnormal noise Models: AURIS; AVENSIS; COROLLA; VERSO Model codes: ADE150; ADE157; ADE186; ADT250; ADT251; ADT270; ADT271; ADE150; AUR20; AUR21 DESCRIPTION OF PHENOMENON Some customers may experience and report squeaking noise from BELT, V-RIBBED around 1500~2000rpm, due to slipping of the belt on the pulleys. PRODUCTION CHANGE The design of the BELT, V-RIBBED has been changed to avoid slipping. PARTS INFORMATION Previous part number 90916-02724, Current part number 90916-02736 REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Check the ''TENSIONER ASSY, V-RIBBED BELT'' after disassembling the BELT, V-RIBBED according to the repair manual. 2. In case of abnormality of the ''TENSIONER ASSY, V-RIBBED BELT'', replace it. If no abnormality is present, then do not replace. 3. Only replace the BELT, V-RIBBED according to the repair manual You say you have had a new belt, do you have an invoice, what part number belt was used? as the bulletin is a field fix only and was not included into production it is possible the dealer hasn't seen the bulletin so may not have used the modified belt
    1 point
  8. My car is kept in a locked garage overnight and private car park at work so I just don't worry about it. There're some good hints there but personally I like keyless entry and wouldn't want to have to go back to holding my keys 🙂
    1 point
  9. So as it is RHD, it will almost certainly be a grey import from Japan - where the domestic market is RHD, and the headlights will be set up for RHD. So no need to change the headlights.
    1 point
  10. Hi Mick. Watch this short video, it may be of help. Regards, Mike
    1 point
  11. Hi again Mike. ex-Rental I'm sure you're correct. Bought new, you're correct too. Bought secondhand is the issue. How do you know that the previous owner didn't have one fitted? I very much doubt ours has one, but you can't guarantee it for every secondhand vehicle, ours included. You would never know unless you were told about it. Why worry? Dunno really, but although I would have no real objection to having one, I don't want one fitted against my knowledge - active or inactive. Mick.
    1 point
  12. Have a look at Devon Aygo's post of 18th July in the following topic - Usually you get either the tyre repair kit (TRK) or spacesaver spare.
    1 point
  13. Arrr, Jim lad, that be the futtock shrouds slacking off again 😉 I would get under the dash with a spray can of GT85 (silicone lubricant) and see if you can spot the column bearing. Worth a try.
    1 point
  14. I believe in years to come all cars will have black boxes fitted as standard and this will mean automatic speeding fines as your speed will be monitored by satellites/sat nav systems. This will be to save Policemen standing with speed guns saving £ millions in wages and equipment but I believe this will take a long while to introduce but it is being spoken about now. Regards, Mike.
    1 point
  15. You may be right, Mike,...No doubt E will enlighten us further ..is it bulbs...or is it units.?
    1 point
  16. Marc, welcome to TOC 🙂 You need to be aware that a small % of 2.2s (2AD- series) pre-Feb/2009 in Avensis develop head/headgasket issues that would cost more than the car is worth to fix according to Toyota's standards. Toyota did have a free customer service campaign for those that did up to 7 years or 112,000 miles (whichever came first) but that ended several years ago as all the potentially affected engines were now over 7 years old. afaik the encryption on the ECU was finally cracked so can now be remapped by some outfits. If you do buy it & chip/remap it I would strongly suggest that you also upgrade the brakes, if only to improve feel, & if you drive at night fit uprated headlight bulbs.
    1 point
  17. lots of hybrid Auris TS used as private hire cars too.
    1 point
  18. Just a wild guess, but is there, in that area, a bearing for the steering column which may need lubricating?
    1 point
  19. Hi Mike I am not aware of any annual fees for them being left in the vehicle but I think they are taking liberties by not removing them when not active,(it should be included in the fees paid upfront) but then again who's to say that they're not still monitoring how and when the car is being driven!
    1 point
  20. Just a quick hello to all that may remember me from a while back, Ive not been on here due to serious illness ..... ie the Big C I still have the same 2 cars as my profile, I will try and get back on here when I can soon. Regards Pete.
    1 point
  21. Engine wise buy what’s in the best overall condition within your budget, the diesel ‘hate’ is largely misplaced if you aren’t averse to a little work and follow some basic common sense. I say that having owned two diesel 4.2’s that each saw out 100k without any engine issues and something close to 350k total on 4.2 & 4.3 diesels in the family and the 4.3 2.2D has known issues. My current 55 plate XTR from November (so the last production run) has been pretty reliable since new, a DMF/Clutch at 80K? was nothing to get excited about and Toyota picked up a decent chunk of it as goodwill without being asked, the SCV’s were free even out of warranty, yes it needs a timing belt every 5yrs/60K, but even the main dealer fixed price isn’t unreasonable (£275). Everyone worries about turbo’s, but if you follow basic common sense (the kind of thing anyone who has ever owned a turbo’d car should do anyway) then they seem to hold up well. The biggest issue is oil starvation followed by carbon buildup on the control rings leading to hesitation/surging. The former is mitigated by regular oil changes using a decent quality oil, drop the sump every 10yrs and check/clean and replace the pickup if you’re genuinely concerned, the latter takes me about 60 seconds to alleviate at each service by manually actuating the mechanism and avoiding supermarket diesel and using millers eco seems to helps minimise/reduce carbon buildup. I say that with the original turbo on 120K, so I like to think I must be doing something right? EGR issues are easily preventable, again use quality fuel, and every few years clean the thing, £2 for brake cleaner and an old toothbrush + 30 minutes of your time isn’t that bad. Even after 95k when I first did my current RAV’s EGR (ran on Shell most of its life), the buildup was very minimal. The 4.2 2.0 D4D lacks a DPF, so no worries on that score. Cheap and reliable at this age are highly subjective terms for a car that has been round the earth four times (100k), by this age/mileage irrespective of engine type, rust and general wear and tear come into play, not so much on the body/chassis (though if you work on your own car, it’s likely at the point where preventative maintenance is a good idea), but things will be starting to wear out and any work that is required, usually leads to more work as parts don’t dismantle as easily and it’s sometimes a false economy to put them back on without renewing them. For example this month I started overhauling my RAV, it has an MOT and no significant issues other than needing a shock absorber and a diff seal, I initially eyeballed the first phase of work at £4-500 for parts including £190 on tyres. By the time I finish, i’ll likely be 50% over the top end of that, unless you look closely and get underneath it, you really won’t see much obvious to show that money has been spent. I could have done things cheaper if I used lesser brands/used parts or just done the bare minimum to keep it road legal, but my point is expect to get your hands dirty - or pay someone else to - sooner rather than later. Rav’s are generally pretty reliable/well built and easy to get along with - we’re on our 4th in the family so far 😉
    1 point
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