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Toyota have just published details of the new MY20 Corolla 1.2T is dropped for all grades. MM19 Audio to include Andriod Auto / Apple carplay on all grades Leather seats on Excel and Power tailgate on TS Excel New GR Sport & Trek Grades for HB/TS New Ash Grey colour for GR sport Scarlet Flare replaces Barcelona red on Saloon On sale from 1st November Deliveries to start 16th December GR Sports grades include Unique GR Sport Styling, new 18" wheels on HB and 17" on TS, Sports seats with partial leather, Heads up display, 7" 3D TFT Screen, TREK grade only on TS include Unique TREK Styling both inside and out, New 17" Alloy wheels, +20mm Suspension height, Power Tailgate,

No - Devon Aygo has provided the UK specs as announced by Toyota GB.

I've spent the last week fitting custom made plates to Auris's for a hire company. They cost £9 to manufacture, and perhaps £2 in fittings. Takes around 8 minutes to fit too (after doing a few!).

That’s ok. Plus the ev race lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good post Bob. 🙂 I always think it's a shame when an unusual and interesting post like this which gives lots of new information (as far as I know) that will be really helpful to many in the future gets no replies at all after a week. I think my screen is the earlier and dumber type. 😞 There are few things I'd like to change on my screen. Top of the list is to add a clock function because the small clock in driver's binnacle is so small. Next on the hit list is to ban safety message that obstructs the view slightly at the bottom of the reverse camera screen..

“P” is for Park and is only meant to be used when the vehicle is parked because it locks the gearbox.

Highway Code rule 114 says; In stationary queues of traffic, drivers should apply the parking brake and, once the following traffic has stopped, take their foot off the footbrake to deactivate the vehicle brake lights. The idea of keeping your foot on the brake until they stop is to warn the people behind. I always keep my foot on the brake until I am happy that I am safe from the people behind.

Battery condition all depends how the car is driven and maintaned, you may get 10 years out of it, you may get 4 years out of it, If you replace it fit a good quality battery like a Bosch S4/5 or Varta A friend has a 62 plate and the 12v battery has just died - i drained it and refilled it with deionized water and put it on a trickle charge over night - it now test about 90% of new one

I bought a space-saver plus jack etc from eBay. £60odd if my memory serves me. I just went to the eBay site and put in my tyres size and 2014 Yaris. Since given away the gunge and the electric pump to someone who wanted it. Goodness knows why anyone wants them! Mick.

The Yaris Hybrid has a 12v auxiliary battery under the back seats

Sorry for the tardy reply. I actually lost faith in ECP and purchased from Toyota. £180. Ouch! I was pressed for time and didn't want to be let down again. About double the price of ECP. ECP were somewhat surprised by this fault but i seem to remember that although the replacement was Pagid branded and boxed that the paperwork was for a different company- an engineering works.

https://www.toyota-tech.eu/aimuploads/{DDF86109-38EC-5E1D-3912-FFCBC11B38EC}/Fog lamps, non prewired, Auris10, PZ457-E9517-00 AIM 001924-0.pdf https://www.toyota-tech.eu/aimuploads/{4D334E18-4477-B00A-0A96-2AAB5F954477}/Fog lamps, prewired, Auris10, PZ457-E9518-00 AIM 001925-0.pdf https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Toyota-Auris-2010-Front-Fog-Lamps/350740154779?

it needs re-calibrated. Konrad will be along shortly to tell you of his experience or you could search the forum.

I've tested out another Mclaren cleaning product, and thought I'd share my view on it with you all.

Very interesting experiment and it validates what I have always thought about Toyota/Lexus hybrids, just bung it in D or R and let the computers do the rest.

Experiment complete. Came home, all eight bars green, and came up the drive in reverse. By the time I was at the top, only six bars green. Neutral and coasted back to the gate. Neutral doesn't charge the battery, so at the gate, I selected reverse again and drove hard back up. Four bars green, and then repeated, then two bars green. Next time up, the engine revved high and at the top, I still had two bars green. Repeated another four times, and each time the engine revved and it stayed at two bars green. After the next one, I was a bit bored so didn't do any more, but it seems that two bars green was the minimum. The car wasn't as eager on the latter runs than on the first few, but it still did well. There you have it. Probably no limit to how far you can reverse. Mick.

That's another issue. What equivalent gearing does a hybrid use? There's so much torque with an electric motor, the "bottom" gear doesn't have to be that low. No doubt reverse is the same as forward. Mick.

22bhp for a 25% hill? Dunno at all about that. I was considering trying it to see what happens. Going forwards gently with 7 or 8 bars green with the system warm, I can get up some of the hill, but the engine starts up within 200yds or so. No doubt the battery is getting too hot and the engine takes over. The way I see it, in reverse, the engine cannot take over, and the battery alone has to get you up the hill. Can the engine provide enough power to replace the energy consumed from the battery? Is 22bhp enough for a 25% hill? What happens if you have five adults in the car? I reckon 22bhp won't do it and the battery will stop producing power and the car will stop with the engine racing to try and top it up enough to carry on. I'll have to give it a go. 😀 Mick.

You can probably drive in reverse as far as the fuel tank will allow! You really need to look at the power available. I noticed that the maximum regeneration is around 17kW and this is about 22bhp - I suggest this is the safe limit for the inverter hardware. 22bhp in reverse should be enough for any hill. What is really interesting is "what is the maximum speed attainable in reverse"! Note that old DAF variomatics have raced, but in reverse 'gear'. Will the unwanted Toyota hybrids race this way in 20 years time …. DAF CVT racing

Like I say, 8 bars lit doesn't mean full - at least, not straight away. Maybe the Yaris is different, but on Prius 1.5 & 1.8 Hybrids I've driven, the very few times I've experienced a truly maxed battery is after more like 3-4 miles on a 20% gradient. I never experienced it at all for over 3 years and some 70,000 miles until a trip to Scotland. Once the battery maxes out, on hitting level ground it behaves like a true EV as the system tries very hard to make some room for more regenerated power. I wish I could find it now, but some years ago someone published a great colour diagram showing the charge levels for each bar - there was some overlap, and the gauge would change at a different point depending on whether the SoC (State of Charge) was increasing or decreasing, and not all bars cover the same range. IIRC, bars 2 and 8 cover a bigger band than any others.

Be aware you don't have to use B mode, but if it helps to maintain control then of course that's fine. Using baking alone recovers more energy unless: 1. the hill is too steep to hold speed with regenerative braking alone, or 2. the HV battery has 'maxed out ' and won't take any more energy. Note: this occurs quite a while after the 8th bar on the battery guage has lit. In the latter case, I'm told more recent versions of the Hybrid systems (from 2009 Gen 3 Prius onwards) automatically enter something like B mode when the battery has maxed whether it's selected or not.

Just been checking ................... No brake dust on our rear wheels, and I can't remember seeing any either. The dirt is road dirt, not brake dust. We live in a steep valley, and a hilly area too, and brakes - or should I say breaking - is/are used frequently just getting out and about. We use the B gear coming down the hills many times too. Mick.

Both of my petrol Auris had the same from new - rear wheels accumulating more brake dust than the fronts.

It's all down to amount of use and type of braking. I recently read a post (somewhere) from a US owner with over 200,000 miles on original discs and pads. My last Gen 3 Prius had less than a quarter wear at 60k when I sold it, and my current Gen 4 at 37k shows the same very low wear. I try to plan ahead to get the best regen energy recovery, as well as smooth and comfortable progress. Since Gen 2, cars have had a Hybrid System Indication which I use to good efect (plus in the Gen 3/4 Prius the HSI is visible in the Head Up Display). I know another owner whose brakes were fine at 100,000 on a Gen 2 when he sold it (although his was garaged, unlike mine). My last Gen 1 Prius had minimal wear showing as the car reached 70k, but then for a year I used a company Prius and mine only got driven once very week or two, and then usually for short journeys. As Scott said, the rust was the killer, and the brakes were very noisy with grinding sounds and all the discs/pads needed replacing within the next 10k miles. The car was then used daily until I sold it at 9 years old with 163k and the discs/pads were still well under half used. This car was not garaged either. From 2007-2011 I was manager of a fleet of Prius London minicabs (about 40 cars when I started and nearly 300 when I left), and some (but my no means all) drivers managed to wear out their brakes from using them enough in slow traffic (earlier generations only used the disc brakes below 7 mph, later versions from 5 mph) and hard enough above that to use the disc brakes as well as the regen.

It is not unknown for hybrids to need replacement rear discs more often than normal cars due to corrosion as they do so little friction braking that they don't clean surface rust from the rear discs as a normal car would & it gets a firmer hold on the disc. & of course, when you replace discs you should also fit new pads.

Thanks guys. This is all very interesting eh? It seems very mysterious how this all works together for braking. Our car is the first one ever that it's the rear wheels that get dirtier than the fronts. "Normal" cars have loads of brake dust on the front wheels and ours never has. The only dirt on the wheels is road dirt. This must mean that pads and discs must last far longer than on a "normal" car. Mick.

I am curious also. I was wondering if just taking your foot off the gas uses the mg1 the smaller motor to regen and under braking it uses the other motor. Which would explain more regen when actively braking. Since heat recovery wouldn’t be as effective over short periods of time and would still incur brake wear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've tried all 4 of my Toyota hybrids on ordinary fuels, both from major supermarkets and major companies and also BP Ultimate and Tesco Momentum. No difference on any of them, performance or MPG Never had any fuel systems issues, never needed any magic cleaners or boosters.

Then I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on this since I've used such products previously and seen them used (not the cheap sTp stuff though) and have seen first-hand the effects, how the engine itself is quieter, the idle is smoother, and acceleration is more responsive. This is on diesels though, and the quality of diesel varies greatly from country to country, and not all countries have access to good stuff. It might be that you can't see any difference since everything in your cars has been working perfectly, but for those in worse areas with no access to good fuel it's only logical that stuff gets fouled up. Heck, I've also seen first-hand what cheap diesel does to the intake manifolds of cars versus premium diesel from Finland, for example.

I know plenty about "the subject" thanks and is exactly why I have NEVER filled up with "the cheapest fuel available"! (and I wouldn't touch a diesel with a barge pole either...) Read up on them (after market fuel additives). Most proper tests show that they have a negligible effect on a well maintained and serviced vehicle. By "negligible", I mean an ongoing "repeatable cost benefit" when you use the stuff regularly. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

I have also had a few hybrids, 2 Prius, one Yaris and a Lexus CT200. They have all been left for 60 odd days, however, always pulled the fuse that runs the equipment that is live with the ignition off (immobiliser/alarm etc). The cars were left in a locked garage which is integral with my house, so does not get too cold. The 12V batteries have always provided enough power to start the electrics and the traction batteries only lose 1 or 2 bars over that time, so they always started first time too.

My Yaris GRMN has just started after being left for 62 days, not even a flicker from the dashboard, it cranked normally and fired up within 2 seconds. A 12V battery should not discharge within 3 days unless lights or accessories have been left on by accident.

True what you say about load, Mick. One can buy load testers, but for the private motorist a new battery is probably more cost effective. I've just never had a battery that stayed at 13V.

Voltage is only half of it. You need to do a Drop Test to get a better idea. How does the voltage hold up when under load? Just coz it sits at what you think is a good voltage, doesn't mean it's got good regulation. High internal resistance will kill voltage. Aim for 13v on a battery at rest, and you'd be more than likely fine. 12.56v is ok as you've not replenished the battery after a couple of 30min drives. Mick.

Fully charged batteries should sit at 13v or nearly 13v. I reckon you've got a duff battery and need a new one. We had a Fiat500 up until a year or so ago and it had a Stop/Start system. We bought the car out of warranty and I noticed after a while, that the SS system wasn't stopping the engine for the designed full three minutes. I carried out many experiments to prove it. I took the car to three separate independent garages and they all said that the battery was fine ........... even though it would sit at 12.5v. They all, to a man, said that that was a good battery. I knew different, and hoped they would back me up. I paid £100 for a new battery - Stop Start batteries are expensive!! - and the fault was immediately cleared. Trouble is, unless you give the car a good run, the SS system stops being perfect, so I bought a battery charger with a plug connection (not croc clips) to the battery. Each and every time I came home, I would pop the bonnet and connect up the charger on a long lead from the front porch, then lower the bonnet. The job took less than a minute to do, and even quicker to disconnect before driving. The SS system worked perfectly for years, and probably better than when the car was new. The issue really, is that when they build cars, they are parked for months sometimes in a big carpark waiting to be sent out to be sold. They then go to a main dealer by lorry and may sit on the forecourt for weeks before a punter wants to buy the car. It then goes for a pre-delivery inspection, cleaned, battery charged, and then test driven. The battery at that time could well have been flat .......... and that's the worst thing you can do to a battery. If so, from then on, it's on its last legs. Mick.

Sorry I was going by another post and probably misread it. An hours drive should put back what a standard starter motor takes out. So it could be a faulty battery. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Toyota hybrids use the 12 volt battery, for things like alarm/central locking, When shut down. When powering on it powers the basic systems The downside is the charging rate is low, maybe you might consider a modern battery charger that you can use while it's in the car. A hybrid car charges at 4amps and if the battery is low it could take 12 hours to charge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Some journeys are short - about 20 minutes, but most journeys are closer to 1 hour. Let me ask a different question: how long do I need to drive to recover the energy used to start the car?

A battery that is in a good state of health should last over 2 weeks without any problem. Does the car only get used for short journeys? If yes then it might the problem as the battery never gets a full charge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Speaking of Hybrid Assistant, I'm loving Alessandro's sense of humour today! [emoji6] Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

If you have an android device go to google play and search for "hybrid assistance". Apple may also have it?

How to Switch on power without engine starting hybrid in garage

The cars only charge in D, R and P and so if the battery level is low and the engine is running, then you must be in one of said 'gears'. If the battery level is high and the engine is running, then it is probably just trying to keep warm, as it were, so using N is probably OK, but not efficient. If you are in D with the handbrake on, you are wasting energy.

Don't put you foot on the brake pedal when pressing the start button if I remember correctly. I think there are 2 levels of "on" depending on how many times you push the button. You will be discharging the small 12V battery in this mode, not advisable for anything more than very short periods.

I can understand this - I have to have 2 cars for the same affect, one being an old school V8 convertible - good for country lanes and setting off car alarms in multi-storey car parks. Regarding the carwow drag races, I would like to see all the Yaris options in one: petrol, diesel, hybrid and GRMN. My guess would be the hybrid would get to 50 yards first and then the GRMN zooms past to win. Chuck in a Zoe and BMW i3 to add to the mix.

It's perfectly fine as a daily driver, fun on winding country roads and overtaking is much easier than in my previous hybrids. I am actually enjoying have 3 pedals for the first time in 23 years. Seats are very comfy too for my 59 year old backside.

What are cars like this actually for? Absolutely pointless on public roads, and can only be used effectively on a track. If you have one, what do you do with it when not racing? Sorry, Mick.

I have one, it's fun and very fast. There are a couple to be had as mentioned above.