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Use the aircon on recirculate, it helps dry the air in the car. Doesn't have to be set cold, you can use it warm, too. Give the back window a good clean. If all this doesn't help enough, remember that there is nothing wrong with giving the glass a quick wipe with a chamois sponge or a microfibre cloth or similar before you drive off.

Exactly like on my car, coming and going creaks especially on cold weather when turning the steering full pelt at slow moving speed from standing. Thanks, will have a look at the sway bars bushings. Probably will leave this like you to the tester and live with the creaks. These bushings are the original and started to creak at around 110k, car now has 120k and is ultra reliable otherwise.

My Auris is in for it's 65000 mile service next week. The mechanic said it was very impressive that original brake part had lasted that long. And maybe, just maybe, it could avoid replacement until 75000 mile service. I recall my old 2004 Corolla. Nothing lasted more than 40.000 miles, and at every service some part needed replacement due to wear and tear. It seems that Toyota has improved quite a bit, making ownership less expensive.

It is also affected by amount of use the car gets and type of braking. I recently read a post (somewhere) from a US owner with over 200,000 miles on original discs and pads. A Gen 3 Prius I had from 2012 to 2016 had less than a quarter wear at 60k when I sold it, and my last Gen 4 sold at 40k showed the same very low wear. I try to plan ahead to get the best regen energy recovery, as well as smooth and comfortable progress. Since Gen 3 Prius, Toyota Hybrids have had a Hybrid System Indicator which I use to good effect (plus in the Gen 3/4 Prius the HSI is visible in the Head Up Display) to help get max regen and min brake wear. I know another owner whose brakes were fine at 100,000 on a Gen 2 Prius when he sold it (although his was garaged, unlike mine). My last Gen 1 Prius (2002-2011) had minimal wear showing as the car reached 70k, but then for a year I used a company Prius and mine only got driven once every week or two, and then usually for short journeys. The rust was the killer, and the brakes were very noisy with grinding sounds and all the discs/pads needed replacing within the next 10k miles. The car was then used daily until I sold it at 9 years old with 163k and the discs/pads were still well under half used. This car was not garaged either. From 2007-2011 I was manager of a fleet of Prius London minicabs (about 40 cars when I started and nearly 300 when I left), and some (but by no means all) drivers managed to wear out their brakes from using them enough in slow traffic (earlier generations only used the disc brakes below 7 mph, later versions from 5 mph) and hard enough above that to use the disc brakes as well as the regen.

@bathtub tom I used to also get the "scrubbing" noise when turning slowly on full lock, which stopped after I had the front tyres replaced. This noise was a different sort of noise to the squeeking and creaking that the rubber bushings make. But indeed I was amazed to find out it was the tyres that were responsible for the grating - at first I thought the tyres were somehow fouling the wheel liners or something to make the dreadful noise, but a simple tyre change sorted the issue. It may have been down to the tread on the old tyres getting worn and the rubber perishing, as the old tyres were quite old - my car only does low mileage and still only has 31K on the clock for 13 years old, so the tyres take quite some years to reach the point of replacement.

I get a creaking noise when I move slowly. Doctor says I on the way out so just have to put up with it. 😁

I noticed a strange noise from my Yaris at full lock - low speed - cold weather. Decided it was tyres juddering over the ground. I read somewhere about a 'modified Ackerman' steering geometry on them. Ackerman isn't a perfect solution for different radii of steered wheels and I don't know how Toyota have modified it.

Depends where you live. I live in Sheffield, loads of hills and steep streets whereas if I lived in the flatlands of East Anglia I would expect my brakes to last longer. Also depends on driving style as well so too many variables.

I was actually referring to the lack of Copaslip, there is no need for it.

The fact it is intermittent again points to some poor connection issue or perhaps a faulty/intermittent relay. The whine may be normal, obviously it depends how loud it is and where it comes from but I have recollections of hearing similar when we had a Carina E many years ago. I also hear a very faint similar type noise on my Auris if I really really listen hard. I suspect your best course of action is going to have this diagnosed by an auto electrician but you need to clearly document what does and doesn't happen. For example if you turn the headlights on when it is failing to start, do the lights stay bright or do they dim/go out. Those are the big sorts of clues.

9320 miles are 15000km so the app writer must have been lazy in researching actual service intervals for the UK.

It looks a lot tidier like this.

Unfortunately, I find myself in the same position as the OP, with one LED (of six) failed. I understand this light costs around £80 from Toyota, so I took mine apart to see if I can replace the failed LED. It doesn't seem possible and I've now got a loosely fitted third brake light. The MOT tester's manual states: (a) Stop lamp(s): (i) with a multiple light source up to 1/2 not functioning Minor So that looks like an 'advisory' to me. I'll have to find some mastic to seal it to the tailgate.

Diesel. Clean. Advanced. Technology.

I changed my pads and disks around 50k purely due to corrosion and scoring. The pads had plenty of life left it them but this may be down to being a hybrid. I used to own Vauxhall's and seemed to have spend every other weekend fixing them!

Could it also be an ECU going Kaput soon?! The symptom is when I crank, there is a high frequency whine, and nothing turns on when I crank the key to start. When key is in ignition, and when turned to Acc mode before cranking, there will be the high frequency whine very faintly. It's just weird because it's not a persistent issue, only happens occasionally so very difficult to diagnose. Sighs