Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Leaderboard

  1. Scottydog007

    Scottydog007

    Registered Member


    • Points

      3

    • Posts

      146


  2. Catlover

    Catlover

    Established Member


    • Points

      2

    • Posts

      4,163


  3. threepot

    threepot

    Registered Member


    • Points

      2

    • Posts

      175


  4. flash22

    flash22

    Established Member


    • Points

      2

    • Posts

      13,089


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/10/2019 in all areas

  1. Continued.... only 3 lifters were not broken, the other 13 were all mashed So I painstakingly fished out all the erroneous roller pins and counted them to make sure non got away. Most of them only fell out when I put them in the tray but there were a few in the bottom of the head. So I found on ebay, a complete cylinder head for sale on ebay for £100 in birmingham from a 1.6 BMW Mini Countryman thing. It had all the rockers and cam assemblies etc. So cleaned all that lot up, and rebuilt it with those bits. Please to say its all put back together and runs lovely and quiet, really smooth. Ticks over and drives better than it did before it went wrong! Although the first time I ran it after putting it back together, it didn't run very well at all. Turns out I didn't have the timing set quite right. I re pegged it and adjusted the top pulley a bit and that transformed the way it ran. Less diesel knock and rattle, also starts better. There went another 10 hours into trying to make it run right.The amount of time that has gone into this is insane. Parts wise its stands me at about £310:- Timing chain kit £100 Timing chain setting tools £23 Oil/filter/gearbox oil £70 Second hand cylinder head £100 + fuel and time to collect. Sealant and some various seals about £20 But labour wise we are talking easily 35 hours. Probably more, I don't really want to think about it. And I would never do this job again. (well not too soon anyway)
    2 points
  2. I need some advice please. I’m a long time lover of Toyota cars; I’ve been driving a Yaris for the last 8 years which has been virtually bombproof. Im very happy with the Yaris for daily driving, but I have an MR2 for weekends, and summer runs out etc. That too has been super reliable but it has virtually no luggage space etc. I’m thinking of selling it and replacing it with another coupe, i.e a GT86, for the same purpose; fun,not daily car. Friends say to buy an Audi TT coupe instead, but I wanna stick with Toyota. Judging by my MR2 it will only do about 2000 miles a year and would always be garaged and on trickle charge in between. With this in mind I have a few questions: 1. Is the GT86 as reliable as is usual with Toyotas? 2. If properly and regularly serviced, would a high miler still be a good buy? (I’m thinkin a 12 to 14 Reg). 3. Any rust issues apart from the well documented quarter light pillar? 4. Automatic or manual? 5. Any particular problems to be aware of? Any other miscellaneous relevant info much appreciated. Thanks in advance Tim
    1 point
  3. Misutonida do some nice bits (Misutonida Mach) but not cheap https://www.misutonida.com/en/1059-2019-toyota-rav-4-hybrid
    1 point
  4. I thought it would be shared with other forum members... Like one post in which to air their niggles... I didn't think for a second that Toyota would either look at or respond to this post as its been pointed out countless times that this forum has no official association with Toyota... As much as I agree that Toyota customer services would be an idea I feel that in isolation individuals would be fobbed off.. I mean they, Toyota, do not appear at all bothered once they have taken your money. I do actually like my Rav, mostly... 😁
    1 point
  5. Hi, Just for my own interest as well as yours, have mailed Autel UK to ask them to confirm their AL619 OBD2 can read and clear our 2002-2006 ABS and SRS errors. The info on the ebay adverts as above do not make it clear, so would want assurances it will before buying one. Seems they do the 619 and a 619EU slightly dearer model which includes a few more EU / French models not sold so much world wide. Also seems their products are cloned, but you can buy direct to avoid such problems, see the link which also shows the user manual etc. http://www.autelstore.co.uk/wholesale/autel-autolink-al61--srs-abs-obd2-can-diagnostic-tool.html Will let you know what they say ...
    1 point
  6. Another new show has just gone live, thanks for watching, please like and share if possible, thank you.
    1 point
  7. Maybe the pipework from the air filter or to the intercooler and back is split or has come loose at one of the joints? Give an extra thorough inspection.
    1 point
  8. The UK specifications show that the saloon has 60/40 folding rear seats.
    1 point
  9. Hi, Its hard to say what the fault is, even fitting the resistor only excludes the airbag unit, not the wiring /connectors from the seat to the control unit, which sounds as if they are a weak point on all cars , otherwise they would not have made up those ebay /amazon tester modules. As you originally said, testing at that main connector would be better, but a mistake in getting the right pins could be costly, think I would follow the wires from the seat as far down the loom as possible and test out there, though you would need to strip the sleeving back etc, To me, getting the error codes read out seems to be the right place to look .... yes ? Before I got a basic reader like yours I had trouble with my old Avensis and found a guy at Halfords who read the code out for me without charge as its would have taken him more time doing the invoice, so even if they, or another garage charge £5 ,10 or £20 to get the codes read it would be time and money well spent ? If the error codes show its the dashboard airbag then how can your local Toyota dealer dispute that ? You could also try another Toyota dealer, though seems in your area its all the same group, apart from the one In B st Ed. ?
    1 point
  10. In the Mk2 Avensis 2003-2009 the thing to look for is D-CAT this denotes a DPF The early 2.0 1CD timing belt engine was available with & without D-CAT In the UK none of the later 2.0 1AD timing chain engined MK2 had DPF As for the 2.2 the 2ADF 150 bhp did not have a DPF the 2.2 2ADH 180 bhp did have a D-CAT
    1 point
  11. Well I booked a toyota corolla for use as a hire car in florida and to evaluate android auto. Unfortunately there wernt any so i ended up with a mazda but that had no android auto. During the week i had an issue with the car and for the inconvenience they replaced it with a dodge challenger 👍 This car has android auto and it's a much better integration than we have got on the corolla at the moment. I can choose which map app I want waze or google maps and which app I want to control my music. Spotify, apple music or deezer Can ask it to do thing via google. It's just better Hope we get it on the 2019 toyota Corolla soon Have we any updates yet
    1 point
  12. The silence from toyota is deafening isnt it. Such a modern car with great features should have had these features from the get go
    1 point
  13. Hi I, long time no speak. That is good advice. They are not cheap on Ebay at £80.
    1 point
  14. Because I now have the sunroof I lost the sunglasses storage that the 2018 model had. So I found this on eBay for £4.77 I cut the bottom extension off, put Velcro pads on and it fits perfectly behind the Touch2 screen. Perfect height and length and it doesn’t look bad. I only used one of them. bad.e
    1 point
  15. It does surprise me how some manufacturers seem to design from scratch and not take good points from a previous design. My wife had 2 second hand Astra’s which we both loved. I then bought her the top of the range new Astra and it was rubbish, we hated it. The gearbox was junk, they had made it bigger etc. Sadly I could not test drive it as it was a new design, and we were one of the few to receive it first in the country. I’m a design engineer and work for many companies. I am amazed how some companies do not allow access to previous history. Hewlett Packard printers is a good example. We had no access to other machines so was to design from scratch, we were told plenty of time had been allowed for this. We engineers used to go around the rubbish bins finding old printers and study them and copy ideas.
    1 point
  16. Maybe the oil does not get dirty due to low mileage, but there could well be water in it due to condensation through standing and then not running hardly. And depends what Toyota service the car has - Intermediate or Full..... I think intermediate with Toyotoa maybe around the £180 mark, maybe a bit lower. Here is a link so you can put the cr details in and you get a Toyota price shown. Akso on the link is details of the 5+ service mentioned earlier https://www.toyota.co.uk/owners/service-mot-maintenance/servicing
    1 point
  17. Having said that, whilst it has a lot of great features, my latest model Excel spec RAV4 seems a backward step in many ways compared to my previous 2016 4th Gen Prius Excel, which had: all four window switches illuminated a more ergonomically designed switch layout on the driver's armrest, on the RAV I keep knocking the mirror fold switch to closed when shutting the door mirror adjustment control was a large knurled knob that twisted to select left/right and was easily found without looking roof switches that were easy to find by feel and also illuminated illuminated glovebox "rain repellent" front side window glass that was surprisingly effective sound deadening laminated front side windows - I didn't appreciate how useful these were until I got the RAV that doesn't have them and hear a bit of wind noise from the mirrors at speed and more noise from diesels and cars with thumping music in traffic queues a Head Up Display of speed and Hybrid System Indicator - a major safety aid that has been on the Prius for 10 years now wireless phone charger (that's why I bought a new phone! Grrr) the best self parking system I've yet seen, made parallel parking in particular a quick affair as once selected it advised every time one passed a space the car would fit into (and could get you back out too) a poor SatNav but at least it didn't revert to North Up every other time the car was started and numerals were on the same screen as alpha characters when inputting addresses ability to use Playlists on USB music I just wish they'd copied all this from the Prius (which like for like is a cheaper car than the RAV). Also, the RAV's seat memory buttons are not illuminated or easy to find by feel, which is a pain in the dark as I switch between position 1 and 2 for driving and getting in/out. I don't remember ever upgrading a car and losing so many benefits, despite the other advantages of the RAV. However, I couldn't find anything else that ticked enough boxes, including the driving dynamics being similar the the Prius and having a spare wheel.
    1 point
  18. My 2018 RAV4 was worse. In the dark I would turn off engine and open drivers door to find passengers could not get out their doors. I would then have to faf around looking for switch to open all doors. They 2019 seems to default to this as well, but at least you can change this setting via MyT app that allows remote change of settings like door opening, interior lights stay on time etc. I drive a lot in the dark so I do not like to see my car looking like a Christmas tree inside. But 2019 has made a great improvement on my 2018. Switches before had no lights at all, were too far way, or too small or hidden in a recess. Yesterday in the dark, I needed to open side windows to remove water droplets using the rubber window seals. When I looked for the switches there was a faint light directing me. Nice. Incidentally the 2018 the window seals never touched the glass so never cleared the windows. There has been a big improvement for the 2019, auto folding mirrors now exists. It seems Toyota does listen to the owners and action much of irritating issues.
    1 point
  19. Toyota have been building cars with Hybrid system for just over 20 years, the first Prius in the Uk was 1999 I think. Doing my research before buying my first Hybrid I never saw any query’s about breaking in a new engine, nor any faults that were specifically due to bad breaking in of a new engine. I personally think today’s engineering standards and practices are far better then they were 50 or 60 years ago, and development in lubricants are much better too. SO, if I were buying a brand new car today, hybrid or not, I don’t think I would drive it to much differently then I do now. I no boy racer, in fact I drive for economy. I would just not want to exceed, say, 3500 revs for extended periods other then say overtaking. I would be happy to drive at 2500 all day. I do believe a new engine just not be driven like wrapped in cotton wool, it needs to be worked to bed in proper. It used to be said a good used car purchase would be from the little old lady who only drove a 1000 miles per year going to the local shops and garaging every night. Many times that theory was proved wrong because the car had not been run in proper, and could well be an oil burner. i would have no concerns breaking in anew Hybrid engined car. Sure the engine is controlled by computer but I believe that is to the betterment of a new engine. Toyota hybrid engines don’t seem to rev high anyway. I had a plug in Head Up Display fitted in my Auris hybrid whic showed engine revs, and rarely did over 3000 revs and very often now more then 1500-2000. The computer always ensures the engine temperature is above a preset minimum, that’s one reason why hybrid cars do less mpg in winter then summer. The computer is not going to allow a “cold” engine kick in at higher speeds, not programmed to happen. so, if I had a new hybrid I would just drive a bit easier for, say, the first 1000 miles, that being about 500 miles in a non hybrid car (my Prius is running over 55% of the time on battery at the moment). Let’s face it, a hybrid owner is likely to be someone who is interested in fuel economy of low pollution (or both), and therefore not likely to be sprinting away from traffic lights etc. So I not too concerned at all about breaking in a new car engine like I would have been 60 years ago.
    1 point
  20. Anything below 15 ft lb is snug then a little bit unless its something major or on an aircraft
    1 point
  21. Thanks William, I did what you advised and it worked. Took about ¾ hour to complete, which is faster than last update which I seem to recall took over 1 ¼ hours.
    1 point
  22. Made a how-to for the alternator removal:
    1 point
  23. I don't know if the Avensis is the same, but here is the diagnostic test for the RAV4 auto A/C system: CHECK MODE PROCEDURE 1. PANEL DIAGNOSIS (INDICATOR CHECK) (a) Turn the ignition switch to LOCK. (B) Turn the ignition switch ON while simultaneously pressing the A/C control AUTO switch and the REC/ FRS switch. © Check that all indicators and the display area are turned on and off 4 times in succession at 1 second intervals. HINT: After the indicator check is completed, the system automatically enters sensor check mode. (d) Press the OFF switch to terminate the panel diagnosis. 2. PANEL DIAGNOSIS (SENSOR CHECK) (a) Perform the indicator check. HINT: After the indicator check is completed, the system automatically enters sensor check mode. (B) Press the REC/FRS switch to enter actuator check mode. © After the actuator check is completed, press the AUTO switch to enter sensor check mode. NOTICE: The sensor check must be performed again after the actuator check is completed because sensor check mode, which starts automatically after the indicator check, cannot fully detect malfunctions. (d) Check the sensor check results displayed on the set temperature display. HINT: • The illustration shows the display when code 21 is output. • When 2 or more sensor check codes are detected, the codes are displayed in ascending numerical order. • In cases with 2 or more codes, if they are difficult to read, press the DEF switch to activate the step operation and display them one by one. • The codes are displayed in ascending numerical order as the DEF switch is pressed. (e) When any sensor check codes are displayed, refer to the DTC chart (see page AC-39). (f) Press the OFF switch to terminate the panel diagnosis. HINT: Pressing the REC/FRS switch returns the system to actuator check mode. 3. PANEL DIAGNOSIS (CLEAR SENSOR CHECK CODE) (a) Inspect, and repair or replace the malfunctioning parts. (B) Clear the sensor check codes. (1) While pressing the DEF switch during sensor check mode, press the Rr DEF switch. HINT: Sensor check codes can be cleared by removing the ECU-B2 fuse from the engine room No. 2 relay block for more than 60 seconds. © Perform the sensor check and confirm that normal code 00 is displayed. 4. PANEL DIAGNOSIS (ACTUATOR CHECK) (a) Start the engine and warm it up. (B) Perform the indicator check. © When the sensor check is started after the indicator check, press the REC/FRS switch to start the actuator check. HINT: Perform the actuator check with the engine running. (d) Check the temperature and blower levels by hand at each step while the actuator check proceeds from step 0 to 9 at 1 second intervals (continuous operation). HINT: Each step number is displayed on the set temperature display. (e) To display step numbers one by one manually, press the DEF switch to activate the step operation. The step number changes each time the DEF switch is pressed. HINT: • Each step number blinks at 1 second intervals during the step operation. • The illustration shows the display when step number 5 is displayed. (f) Press the OFF switch to terminate the panel diagnosis. HINT: Pressing the AUTO switch returns to sensor check mode.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership