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Personally, considering we are going into winter, I would be getting shut of all four ASAP. I value my life.

The low fuel light should come on when there is either 1.6 gallons (1.2T) or 1.4 gallons (hybrid) remaining.

Mine's that age. Apart from annual Toyota servicing, I've had to replace just one wiper blade. And my 12v battery isn't what it was ... It has been quite brilliantly boring! I like the goodies on my Excel, but I wish they didn't have to go with low-profile tyres (on 17" rims). I reckon the taller tyres are more comfortable on our imperfectly surfaced roads (and probably quieter too). Having higher rolling resistance, the 17's also have a negative impact on fuel economy. I don't use the inbuilt sat-nav, (won't pay a fortune for slightly newer maps). I prefer Google Maps on my phone, and wish Android Auto was available as a retrofit/upgrade. The Panoramic (glass) roof on mine is covered most of the time, in sunshine it cooks the occupants! And my insurers use that "modification from base spec" to hike the premium by a few quid. Nice but not worth paying for! A Greyhound can get its head round the sides of the official Toyota dog guard... but even without a dog, the official rubber boot liner is VERY nice to have! I still think the headlights are a (the?) relatively weak point of the car, even after the semi-recall no-charge upgrade swap (for which my thanks, Toyota!) Doesn't seem there's anything else can be done about them. Overall, I'm very happy indeed with the thing. I'm not looking for excitement or 'character', boring is just fine! Hopefully I won't need to replace it until I can get something with a plug that is equivalent and affordable.

'For now'.. yup, mine's been fixed 'for now' for the last couple of years and going strong! 🙂

I’m on the forum as and when I need to - there are other things to do like drive around in my TS! My issues: 1. Bluetooth doesn’t seem to show track information when I’m streaming audio. 2. The volume control knob is on the far side and tuning is near me. Who thought of the usability of this thing? 3. Zooming in and out of maps - it would have made sense to map the tuning knob or maybe the track controls to allow zooming - I don’t want to have to divert so much attention away from driving to have to pinch and zoom, or worse move that slider with my finger - as I’m driving. I had a different car before this that had a very useful control knob that meant I could do all these features without having to find various controls and constantly look at the screen to ensure I’m pressing in the right place. 4. E-store - where are all these fabled connectivity apps? Still awaiting licensing? Primarily it’s from a usability standpoint. The car itself is lovely. Great drive, sufficient power and fun. I don’t agree that features that are available in other markets should be limited to the UK one - give us the ability to add on features and choose what we want to pay for. The HUD, Android Auto, Power Tailgate, Blind Spot monitoring - the features exist, are built in Derby, but we can’t have them in the UK unless we wait for the MY20 cars... Which is too late for me. I hope my response wasn’t too breezy for you. d

Hi, Had to laugh, did not even know there was a bulb in there till we just had a look, its rather a dim light ! bit had to see in the dark , but it may be a miniature wedge type that just pulls out or turns and pull ? Have the owners manual which details changing the bulbs but no mention of that one so just wonder if its a soldered in led or bulb and not considered a user replaceable bulb ? Expect you will see better with a good torch on it. Got any further with your airbag problem / code reading/flashing ?

Because my phone says Bluetooth tethering is enabled (and it only says if the supporting device has requested it and capable) and weather data and Google searches work from maps.

You really need to get the exact fault codes for anyone to advise further, but unfortunately Valvematic issues are not unknown on this engine. For some reason cars built in 2010 and 2011 seem to be particularly prone to it

Mine's been 'fixed' with the base out of a Coke can for a couple of years too!

Our hybrids have a pretty minimal 12v battery. I've recently had a couple of "flat battery" events and am looking to replace mine. The 12v battery doesn't do the same work it would in an 'ordinary' car. But we have a fairly ordinary battery, just an unusually small one! In a petrol or diesel vehicle, the battery is selected for its ability to turn over the engine to start it. A massive but brief effort - think of it as a 100m sprint. In our hybrids that job is done by the massive hybrid battery pack, not the 12v. The work our 12v batteries do is more like a very long walk, with a brief gentle jog at the end - never a vein-bursting sprint! But the 12v is needed to "boot up" the hybrid system and thus allow the big battery to do its work. A flat 12v means it doesn't 'boot' and doesn't start. Good news - it takes very little 12v power to "jump start" the system (so the big battery can get to work) and Toyota thoughtfully provided an easy-access connector for the purpose. Once the system is rebooted ("Ready" showing on the dash) the 12v will be charged from the big hybrid battery - so the jump start connection is only needed for a few seconds. Bad news - 'ordinary' 12v lead/acid batteries get damaged by going flat. So it happens more easily next time. EDITED TO ADD Because my battery is in a back corner of the car, and the rear hatch-latch turns out to need 12v to operate it, you can't easily check the battery state before you start recharging it! So what does our 12v battery do? It does a slow and steady job while the car is parked, running the alarm and (if fitted) the keyless entry system. It works the central locking and in "Accessories" mode it'll run the radio etc for just 20 minutes before nanny Toyota shuts things off to protect the poor little 12v battery! And when you try and start the car it has to reboot things - seemingly the most energy intensive part of that task has to do with (electrically) restoring hydraulic pressure to the brakes (which I gather draws about 8 amps from the battery - less one tenth of a typical starter motor peak current). Given that its work characteristic is so different from that of an 'ordinary' battery, it is kinda surprising that we have an 'ordinary' battery. Now that my 12v battery looks to be nearing the end of its life, I recalled a thread on here that referenced a Priuschat thread about using a 12v battery that should be better suited to the duty cycle in an Auris (or Prius, or Yaris) hybrid. The idea was to use a battery designed not for brief intensive sprints, but one designed for really long jogging sessions. Such batteries are employed in electric mowers, mobility scooters, solar power banks and computer UPS, for example. Big ones got used on forklift trucks and, back in the day, milkfloats. The favoured battery in the 2010 Priuschat thread was a Ritar RA12-55, which seems to be no longer available in the UK. In March 2018, a member of this forum fitted a Lucas battery to his Yaris hybrid, but was going to have to somehow redo the clamp to secure it. https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/175037-does-12v-auxiliary-battery-in-auris-hybrid-need-to-be-agm/?do=findComment&comment=1469349 That battery is available today, and for less than £100 should provide not just greater capacity than the standard one, but much greater usable capacity as it can be "run flat" without suffering significant damage. Charging rates, gassing, etc do not appear to be anywhere near being a problem. My first question therefore is "Does anyone know if the Lucas LSLC55-12 will fit the Auris (hybrid) Touring Sports, without modification to the battery mounting?" Yes, I know that you need to add screw-in posts to the battery - no problem, £9 eBay from the UK. The height dimension (thinking clamp) looks to be the one that is closest to the standard dimension... Or is there an alternative mobility/leisure (deep discharge) battery that anyone has fitted simply to the Auris hybrid? (Do hatch and estate share the same battery tray?) Secondly "Can anyone recommend a small, cheap, reliable 12v reboot jumper battery, as it seems prudent to have one, given the twee little 12v fitted as standard?" (eBay has some very cheap, very small ones - but a month or more to ship from China!) I should share that my first no start episode was the day after I'd awkwardly lifted some shopping over from the front passenger seat as I exited the car, and may have brushed the interior light (or, old chestnut supposed to have been fixed, the hazard light switch) leaving the light on overnight. The car unlocked normally, and the dash lit up briefly before everything went off - except the Hybrid Malfunction warning light! I had a few kittens before I realised that opening the door, the interior light wasn't coming on... (my lightbulb moment!) Just a few days after that, the car had to be left parked for 3 days, leading to a similar event (but with a blank dash). No dash messages for me, but anyway... I reckon it is time for a new 12v battery to be sourced... Closing thought - If Toyota had designed the start-up sequence slightly differently, this wouldn't be so dramatic a problem. The priority could have been to reconnect the 12v to the big battery, before asking the 12v to do any serious work (like running the pump to repressurise the hydraulics). That way, even a very flat 12v could 'start' the car - ideally with a warning being displayed. But hey, they seem to have expected the 12v battery to be in great shape. Maybe they did this with the 'facelift'? (The OP's car is 2 years old, so facelift, mine is the older one.)

Which explains the ~20% differences then. And I feel obliged to point out this wouldn't happen if the minority hold outs switched to metric. There is only one litre and everyone everywhere knows what it is :) For my part the only time I use imperial is for driving (distance, speed and - yes I admit it - mpg) and for golf. But I have plans to change the latter, just as soon as my game improves to the point where the difference matters

You don't have a CVT, you have a "Multimode Manual Transmission" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multimode_manual_transmission

Last time I had this problem was on a 1946 Rover 16.(half a century ago..eek!) Worn tyres/ poor tracking were the issue. New tyres and retracking solved it..

I'm guessing diesel? How do you turn key few times, do you mean crank it few times? You need to update your user profile with correct car model/engine.

Inspect and/or replace the cabin filter, it more that likely hasn't been touched in years

Are they Chinese no names ? aka ditch finders, i take you have checked the tyre pressures ? Decent tyres and get a 4 wheel alignment, tyres are personal preference i have Avon's on mine at under £50 a corner all in, the oem Dunlop's are around the £65-£70 mark

What issues are you referring to with the manual? I can't say issues with either manual or auto boxes on the Avensis get mentioned very often on here.

Hi I put a pair of the Vredesteins on last month and I would agree with the other member, I like sure footed handling for time to time spirited Driving and these are good for me. No regrets would purchase again.

Hi again, Got a quick reply from Autel about that 619 reader working with SRS etc as the ads imply. For your request, we suggest you the following MK808 http://www.autelstore.co.uk/wholesale/autel-maxicom-mk808-diagnostic-tool.html it is with one year free update online, and with multi-language. Which is £359 !! As in my last post, you should be able to jumper the OBD2 socket and Flash out the not only the SRS codes but also the ABS codes by the same method. hth

You are welcome, I fixed mine the same way with washers for now.

Should be bolted on, just remove the bolts, put bigger washers, or even cut some coca cola can, and use that instead. On my old car i even used high temperature silicone to stuck it back to the car, no issues for 2 years until i sold it.

It is a good idea if someone knows independent Toyota specialist and make a listing here, people can look at it and help themselves . I personally never see a garage specialising in Toyota cars , Audi Vw, bmw and mercs plenty but Toyota none so far.

Hi. If the car is less than two years old go back to the dealer.

Two things to consider when changing tyres - tread depth and ageing. Advice from tyre manufacturers on tread depth varies. Some say 1.6mm (eg Michelin) - tyres become more economical as the tread wears and changing tyres too early costs more in terms of energy used in manufacture and pollution. Some say 3-4mm (eg. Hankook) - better grip with deeper tread. Ageing - evidenced by cracks in the sidewall, between tread, or both - can result in weak areas, which may be more prone to puncture, etc. It is recommended that tyres over five years old are examined annually by a professional. Tyres over ten years old should be replaced.

I have been following this thread for a while in excited anticipation of getting my new RAV 4 Company Car which was ordered in May this year. I received a call last week saying the the car would be delivered to me on Monday and my 140,000 mile Audi would be collected. I just received another call this morning to say the car has been damaged in the flooding at Toyota Derby to the extent that it has been written off. The only option offered was to resubmit the order and go to the back of the waiting list - likely May/June 2020 for delivery. I am so disappointed. I guess that when people are losing their homes to flooding, it would seem crass to complain too much. Probably now going to opt for another make (Tiguan or a Sportage) both of which could be available by February. Oh well very nearly a RAV 4 owner.