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You have a volume control on the steering wheel so I think it makes more sense to have the rotary one where it's more convenient for the passenger. I don't use the radio myself but I'd expect than in DAB mode at least you could move through stations using the track selection buttons on the steering wheel. It might be worth reading through the manual again as none of the cars I've owned with an infotainment unit required me to take my hands off the wheel for that kind of stuff. As long as it's in 2D I find that automatic map zooming works fine. In 3D mode it doesn't seem to auto zoom at all. The E-store is crap, plain and simple. Badly designed, badly implemented and best ignored.

I retro fitted a oil heater into my gearbox which brings the oil up temp and then switches off giving silky smooth changes from ice cold .it pre heats for an hour on a timer circuit from the house then I just disconnect the plug and lead at the cars grill I fit the plug cover jump in start the car and it's give a perfect gear change .

Yes, I got that screen when tethering is not active. Because I have to switch on tethering every time I get in the car because wi fi and tethering don't work together on the phone, I only tether if I need to use sat nav on a journey. AndrueC, you can tell you are tethered when the "radiation" icon is black and solid on the top right set of icons, to right of the Bluetooth icon.

Its a t5 bulb same as whats behind the heater controls

I filled up last night, just after the light had come on suggesting 30 miles range remaining. I put in 39l against a capacity stated as 43l, so there was 4l left, which at my current consumption of around 40mpg would give 35 miles range.

My Gen4 Prius Excel doesn’t even have a knob, the entertainment screen has a up and down sign to press, though it is near side to driver. However it would be unusual for me to reach for it as I have volume control on the steering wheel, and have had with the last few cars I have owned.

I have an RFID shielded rucksack and I affix my key to the carabiner attached inside (the spare is in a locked steel safe). It's my "man-bag", so it goes everywhere with me. I used to work in IT and with radio and I confirm that no signal passes through that rucksack. I've even tested NFC on my mobile and debit card and they're blocked too! It's a Targus one that I bought in Tel Aviv a couple of years back. Of course, you can always be carjacked! If a big nasty thug really wants your car, he'll get it regardless! Anyway, the odds are remote so just enjoy it. Back to the subject... My main gripes are/were: - Unlit interior buttons (no longer a problem now that I can feel where they are) - Unlit and uncooled tiny glovebox - Wheel changing tools unsecured (easily fixed) - Boot cubby-hole covers very stiff to remove (job for first service) - No windows up/down with remote (job for first service) - No scuff plates (to be added soon) - MPG down from 53 to 47 now that it's got colder (still pretty damn good for an auto mid SUV) On the whole, I'm very pleased with my AWD Excel and couldn't be happier. I actually like the infotainment console and couldn't care less about no Android Auto. The standard system is much easier to operate than reviews say once you get used to it, and it sounds pretty good to my ears. Every SUV that I test drove had shortcomings, what car doesn't?

Did you see my last 2 posts in your other thread, where you can Flash out the SRS error code, so that should direct you to the faulty line.

I’m presuming both the vehicles you mention are the 4.3 model? My 2010 XTR didn’t have roof rails originally but I bought a pair of proper Toyota ones and fitted them myself a few years ago. Dead easy job. From memory there are just two plastic covers to remove on each side of the roof and four bolts the fasten each rail to the roof. No special tools needed or anything of that nature.

I’m on the forum as and when I need to - there are other things to do like drive around in my TS! My issues: 1. Bluetooth doesn’t seem to show track information when I’m streaming audio. 2. The volume control knob is on the far side and tuning is near me. Who thought of the usability of this thing? 3. Zooming in and out of maps - it would have made sense to map the tuning knob or maybe the track controls to allow zooming - I don’t want to have to divert so much attention away from driving to have to pinch and zoom, or worse move that slider with my finger - as I’m driving. I had a different car before this that had a very useful control knob that meant I could do all these features without having to find various controls and constantly look at the screen to ensure I’m pressing in the right place. 4. E-store - where are all these fabled connectivity apps? Still awaiting licensing? Primarily it’s from a usability standpoint. The car itself is lovely. Great drive, sufficient power and fun. I don’t agree that features that are available in other markets should be limited to the UK one - give us the ability to add on features and choose what we want to pay for. The HUD, Android Auto, Power Tailgate, Blind Spot monitoring - the features exist, are built in Derby, but we can’t have them in the UK unless we wait for the MY20 cars... Which is too late for me. I hope my response wasn’t too breezy for you. d

Here's a review of them: https://tinyurl.com/ub4pqd9 Personally, I find my Yaris the worst car I've ever had for stability in crosswinds, other than my bubble car.

Mine's that age. Apart from annual Toyota servicing, I've had to replace just one wiper blade. And my 12v battery isn't what it was ... It has been quite brilliantly boring! I like the goodies on my Excel, but I wish they didn't have to go with low-profile tyres (on 17" rims). I reckon the taller tyres are more comfortable on our imperfectly surfaced roads (and probably quieter too). Having higher rolling resistance, the 17's also have a negative impact on fuel economy. I don't use the inbuilt sat-nav, (won't pay a fortune for slightly newer maps). I prefer Google Maps on my phone, and wish Android Auto was available as a retrofit/upgrade. The Panoramic (glass) roof on mine is covered most of the time, in sunshine it cooks the occupants! And my insurers use that "modification from base spec" to hike the premium by a few quid. Nice but not worth paying for! A Greyhound can get its head round the sides of the official Toyota dog guard... but even without a dog, the official rubber boot liner is VERY nice to have! I still think the headlights are a (the?) relatively weak point of the car, even after the semi-recall no-charge upgrade swap (for which my thanks, Toyota!) Doesn't seem there's anything else can be done about them. Overall, I'm very happy indeed with the thing. I'm not looking for excitement or 'character', boring is just fine! Hopefully I won't need to replace it until I can get something with a plug that is equivalent and affordable.

Our hybrids have a pretty minimal 12v battery. I've recently had a couple of "flat battery" events and am looking to replace mine. The 12v battery doesn't do the same work it would in an 'ordinary' car. But we have a fairly ordinary battery, just an unusually small one! In a petrol or diesel vehicle, the battery is selected for its ability to turn over the engine to start it. A massive but brief effort - think of it as a 100m sprint. In our hybrids that job is done by the massive hybrid battery pack, not the 12v. The work our 12v batteries do is more like a very long walk, with a brief gentle jog at the end - never a vein-bursting sprint! But the 12v is needed to "boot up" the hybrid system and thus allow the big battery to do its work. A flat 12v means it doesn't 'boot' and doesn't start. Good news - it takes very little 12v power to "jump start" the system (so the big battery can get to work) and Toyota thoughtfully provided an easy-access connector for the purpose. Once the system is rebooted ("Ready" showing on the dash) the 12v will be charged from the big hybrid battery - so the jump start connection is only needed for a few seconds. Bad news - 'ordinary' 12v lead/acid batteries get damaged by going flat. So it happens more easily next time. EDITED TO ADD Because my battery is in a back corner of the car, and the rear hatch-latch turns out to need 12v to operate it, you can't easily check the battery state before you start recharging it! So what does our 12v battery do? It does a slow and steady job while the car is parked, running the alarm and (if fitted) the keyless entry system. It works the central locking and in "Accessories" mode it'll run the radio etc for just 20 minutes before nanny Toyota shuts things off to protect the poor little 12v battery! And when you try and start the car it has to reboot things - seemingly the most energy intensive part of that task has to do with (electrically) restoring hydraulic pressure to the brakes (which I gather draws about 8 amps from the battery - less one tenth of a typical starter motor peak current). Given that its work characteristic is so different from that of an 'ordinary' battery, it is kinda surprising that we have an 'ordinary' battery. Now that my 12v battery looks to be nearing the end of its life, I recalled a thread on here that referenced a Priuschat thread about using a 12v battery that should be better suited to the duty cycle in an Auris (or Prius, or Yaris) hybrid. The idea was to use a battery designed not for brief intensive sprints, but one designed for really long jogging sessions. Such batteries are employed in electric mowers, mobility scooters, solar power banks and computer UPS, for example. Big ones got used on forklift trucks and, back in the day, milkfloats. The favoured battery in the 2010 Priuschat thread was a Ritar RA12-55, which seems to be no longer available in the UK. In March 2018, a member of this forum fitted a Lucas battery to his Yaris hybrid, but was going to have to somehow redo the clamp to secure it. https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/175037-does-12v-auxiliary-battery-in-auris-hybrid-need-to-be-agm/?do=findComment&comment=1469349 That battery is available today, and for less than £100 should provide not just greater capacity than the standard one, but much greater usable capacity as it can be "run flat" without suffering significant damage. Charging rates, gassing, etc do not appear to be anywhere near being a problem. My first question therefore is "Does anyone know if the Lucas LSLC55-12 will fit the Auris (hybrid) Touring Sports, without modification to the battery mounting?" Yes, I know that you need to add screw-in posts to the battery - no problem, £9 eBay from the UK. The height dimension (thinking clamp) looks to be the one that is closest to the standard dimension... Or is there an alternative mobility/leisure (deep discharge) battery that anyone has fitted simply to the Auris hybrid? (Do hatch and estate share the same battery tray?) Secondly "Can anyone recommend a small, cheap, reliable 12v reboot jumper battery, as it seems prudent to have one, given the twee little 12v fitted as standard?" (eBay has some very cheap, very small ones - but a month or more to ship from China!) I should share that my first no start episode was the day after I'd awkwardly lifted some shopping over from the front passenger seat as I exited the car, and may have brushed the interior light (or, old chestnut supposed to have been fixed, the hazard light switch) leaving the light on overnight. The car unlocked normally, and the dash lit up briefly before everything went off - except the Hybrid Malfunction warning light! I had a few kittens before I realised that opening the door, the interior light wasn't coming on... (my lightbulb moment!) Just a few days after that, the car had to be left parked for 3 days, leading to a similar event (but with a blank dash). No dash messages for me, but anyway... I reckon it is time for a new 12v battery to be sourced... Closing thought - If Toyota had designed the start-up sequence slightly differently, this wouldn't be so dramatic a problem. The priority could have been to reconnect the 12v to the big battery, before asking the 12v to do any serious work (like running the pump to repressurise the hydraulics). That way, even a very flat 12v could 'start' the car - ideally with a warning being displayed. But hey, they seem to have expected the 12v battery to be in great shape. Maybe they did this with the 'facelift'? (The OP's car is 2 years old, so facelift, mine is the older one.)

Could have a look at the following - Moved to the Rav4 club.

Last time I had this problem was on a 1946 Rover 16.(half a century ago..eek!) Worn tyres/ poor tracking were the issue. New tyres and retracking solved it..

Lots of discussion about Airplay etc but that doesn't bother me..(Shh!! don't tell anyone but I don't really understand what it does so obviously not missed not having it). I am far more upset that forthcoming models will get the anti-theft keys that 'sleep' when not moved for a while, making it impossible for thieves to relay the signal and nick your keyless car so easily. What are Toyota playing at? this problem has been known about for years and the new RAV was recently developed at vast cost for a global market. Why on earth wasn't the better key shipped from day 1? it doesn't even need any vehicle changes, its just a smarter key with a motion sensor that costs peanuts to implement. Toyota should be replacing the insecure keys with the new ones for free to us early buyers as its not like its a post facelift model or such a year or two down the road, its literally months after releasing the first vehicles here. I am assuming they have added the new keys reluctantly to gain some better recognised security rating or insurance grouping rather than customer care.

My 2018 RAV4 was worse. In the dark I would turn off engine and open drivers door to find passengers could not get out their doors. I would then have to faf around looking for switch to open all doors. They 2019 seems to default to this as well, but at least you can change this setting via MyT app that allows remote change of settings like door opening, interior lights stay on time etc. I drive a lot in the dark so I do not like to see my car looking like a Christmas tree inside. But 2019 has made a great improvement on my 2018. Switches before had no lights at all, were too far way, or too small or hidden in a recess. Yesterday in the dark, I needed to open side windows to remove water droplets using the rubber window seals. When I looked for the switches there was a faint light directing me. Nice. Incidentally the 2018 the window seals never touched the glass so never cleared the windows. There has been a big improvement for the 2019, auto folding mirrors now exists. It seems Toyota does listen to the owners and action much of irritating issues.