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I have had many Aygos, do serious mileage, and taken a couple above the 100k mark.. like you, one of mine started to use a bit of oil.. my honest recommendation is to just keep topping it up.. it will keep ploughing on..and see how things go. Mine stopped the oil burning after another 20k or so miles passed by.

Glad you got it sorted there are 3 key types, sorry i didn't see your last post in October

Although pictures only seem to be recorded while the PCSS is doing emergency braking if I am reading this correctly.

Actually, they do (as long as PCSS is on). It's just one that's only accessible by the manufacturer.

I have no idea why the RSA in the Prius is useless. Just offering my thoughts.

You mean like these (ebay)?

Wheels changed over this morning. So far TPMS has initialised with no 'problems'. Was a bit worried tackling this, as I have an hiatus hernia - but seems OK, had forgotten how 'light' the wheels are 😄

Ha ha sorry I was having a joke with you guys the only fix for the notchy gearchange from cold is switch to a single weight oil 75w gl4 synthetic oil .

I have come to the conclusion that it's better to switch it off and go back to keeping eyes open and being alert. Boringly old fashioned but there you go!

Part number 99132-YZZBJ 50p from your local dealer

Its a t5 bulb same as whats behind the heater controls

I recall [ohh... Lonng Ago!] a PR stunt with BMW. A TV show took a couple + kids (...presumably their own money!) out to the factory and the Mrs got to spray their initials on the 'body in white'. Cameras tracked the car and ultimately filmed the handover (... and bunch of flowers) and they drove off. I do believe BMW offered 'factory gate' collections... Them doing PDI & plates.... All good stuff.... Carry On 2sav

Clunk noise on lower speeds, or while at standstill is sadly normal for most Toyotas from 2006-ish to 2010-ish. There are multiple topics about it, and TSB's for Toyota. If this is the only time you get the clunk, it should be the "no security concern" clunk. To try to fix this, go to the footwell, take the plastic boot that covers the steering shaft, try to tighten the nut if possible. If that is not loose, then it could be dried up grease, for this you would need to unscrew that bolt, take the splines apart and apply some lithium grease, and retighten (before you do this, you need to puth a mark on the splines, and put some big clamp on the wheel, or something else to stop it from moving). If you have clunks for example while driving normally, and at higher speeds, then whole different matter. Use search on the forum, the topic has been discussed multiple times.

Interesting if they did make the electric side offer greater performance at low speed. This is something I said recently regarding the Yaris - during the warm-up phase the engine is held at idle (unless you floor it) so most of the performance of the car is from the electric side. It would be good if this was available during normal operation, too. Does anyone know if the battery in the C-HR is larger than e.g. Prius/Auris? EDIT: watched the video, and don't really see what the problem is? If you look at the official performance of any of the Toyota hybrids, they are all around the same figure for 0-60 MPH acceleration (around 10.5 seconds), and all have a top speed of around 105 MPH. Where they differ to conventional cars is they are faster off the mark from a standing start, but slightly slower in the latter part. If you want a dragster, buy a dragster. Hybrids are very capable. Yes, they drive differently, but IMHO they are better. Once you get used to them, you won't want to go back. The single biggest mind-set change is that engine RPM is completely disconnected from acceleration and speed. Sure, going up-hill requires more power (it's physics) but basically you operate it more like an aircraft, and set a power and wait for the car to accelerate. It takes more power to go faster (again, physics) and the power instrument reflects this. Part of learning to drive a hybrid is knowing what power setting (roughly) gives you what speed when accelerating. On the Yaris, middle of ECO will get you 30 MPH, 1 tick mark higher will get you 40 MPH, 2 tick marks higher will get you 50 MPH, but then 2.5 tick marks will get you 70 MPH and maybe a little faster if the road is level. Once you're at speed, you can lift off slightly. This is where the magic of hybrids take over - the engine is throttled back slightly*** giving great MPG, and the electric motor takes up the duty of maintaining speed, while the ICE is relegated to electrical generator-in-chief to supply power to the electric motor and charge the HV battery. *** compared to a conventional car, a lot! In fact the engine can be idling, as in 1000 RPM at 50 MPH and holding speed. Not even diesels can do that! RANT: Too many reviews focus on the "noise" made by hybrids under heavy acceleration, but that is only because the engine is brought up to peak torque RPM for maximum acceleration. A conventional car has to work its way there, whereas the hybrid drive-train allows for the engine to run at peak torque for the entire duration (this is why they actually pull so much better - they're running at the optimum all the time). If you were to drive a conventional car in 3rd gear at 60 MPH, it too can rev its guts out and make a lot of noise! /RANT.

Yep AA here and it is the battery - apparently they are about £300!!