Leaderboard

Hi, I myself am one of the biggest sceptics when it comes to factory fuel-, emission- or performance figures. I don't know your driving style, nor your proficiency in math, but my RAV4 currently shows 5.5 L/100Km (which is 51.36 mpg rounded) after 6 months of ownership. Also, I meticulously administer a spreadsheet of all my fuel stops. When I do the math, the outcome matches the car's computer almost exactly. My spreadsheet shows the same result, with only a negligable rounding difference. Ofcours I have no way of checking the car's CO2 emission, but the onboard computer figures are certainly not much off! I'm sure you can prove a low mpg with any car, by putting the pedal to the metal and cross the UK south to north and back. Even with a RAV4, but that does no justice to it, or to any hybrid car. I'm very satisfied with the RAV4, and I only wish the driver's door switches were illuminated and it had a bigger traction battery. 😒

I've taken the plunge and swapped my nil tax 2017 Aygo for a new 2020 plate X play Aygo with all the new features like the touch screen etc. I had enough equity built up so I had no deposit to pay either and monthly payments are essentially similar. Just a shame I'll have to start paying tax now 😞

Just driven an X-Cite courtesy car & must say I was impressed. The ride/handling is really good for such a small car & very similar to the Yaris in ride & controls with the handling approaching Mini quality. From off, the engine has a pleasant thump & I found I tended to use the lower gears as their range is long. The 15 mile outbound journey was a joy but then, just when my wife was going to drive us back it started snowing heavily. On a good 2cms of snow the car excelled despite many drivers struggling to negotiate said obstacle (Traction Control excelled) Still we get another drive when the weather improves. Chuffed Tel

I was looking around like yourself a few months back. I considered a skoda Octavia 1.4 petrol DSG as relative had a 2007 L&K Octavia diesel manual they owned for 11 years and changed at 130k for a late 2019 Octavia L&K DSG. Only issue in my price range the Octavia was just the same price as a 2015-17 plate Auris Hybrid and a basic spec. Budget at 12-15k I read about the DSG troubles and thought Toyota would be more reliable overall. The other thing I wanted was a reversing camera. Most skoda models don't come with one unless you buy the L&K model but well out my budget. So I bought an Auris Hybrid 2015 Icon plus in blue with extra 3 year warranty and 3 year service pack. I have fitted a cat cover and wouldn't claim if cat stolen. I went for the Auris as wanted a hassle free drive, reliable and auto to waft along like my 1996 Volvo 940 petrol with 202.000 miles. James.

I remember 5 years ago when you bought yours at the same time we had our first Auris hsd too. Owning and enjoying a Toyota hybrid for a long time takes its tool and choosing a different car may be more difficult than you think unless it’s another Toyota Lexus hybrid or full EV. , any other type of auto gearbox behave very different and may not put the smile back on your face again. Cvt transmissions in general behave closest to Toyota ecvt for relaxed driving, but they are not as reliable as is the ecvt. Toyota ones perhaps are one of the good ones. It is a tough decision to choose a new car and maybe best is to test drive first other autos like dsg, cvt, conventional auto and see how you like and which one then you may shorten your list and make easier decision. If you decide to go dsg or manual vag cars are really good. Vw has a very interesting engine 1.4 petrol mounted with manual 6 speed or 7 speed auto dsg. The engine has “active cylinders “ technology that switches OFF 2 of its 4 cylinders in cruising speeds in ideal situations and helps economy and reduce emissions. They have it in golf , Jetta which is a car that worth looking at or Passat . I personally never driven one of those but I am considering if anything wrong goes with my auris and non hybrid replacement needed. I don’t want to make your choice even more difficult, just an idea. Toyota auris 1.2 T cvt or manual is also a good choice. It is a hassle process but you need to test drive the cars that you give as examples. Wish you good luck Wayne 👍

The whole catalytic converter theft issue is something that has me on the fence about purchasing a Prius. Seems someone already requested info from Northumbria police (Northumberland, North East) which saves some effort! https://beta.northumbria.police.uk/about-us/publications-and-documents/accessing-information/disclosure-log/crime-statistics/catalytic-converter-theft-133319/ Another FOI: https://beta.northumbria.police.uk/about-us/publications-and-documents/accessing-information/disclosure-log/crime-statistics/thefts-from-mv-123618/ Note, these are catalytic converter thefts in general and not specific to Prius. The low number is quite surprising - I wonder if there is a lot fewer hybrids/prius in the North East than elsewhere? --- An interesting read here: https://blog.toyota.co.uk/catalytic-converter-theft-how-to-protect-your-car Check out the comments at the bottom of the page, Toyota UK is replying as recently as 4 days ago. If you have a catalytic converter theft it may be worth kicking up a stink in the comments to see if Toyota will help at all. --- Some interesting things to note: https://www.fleetnews.co.uk/news/car-industry-news/2019/09/23/huge-rise-in-theft-of-catalytic-converters-from-cars So Honda has taken responsibility and protecting catalytic converters from 2008 onwards, that's 12 years. A comment from Toyota blog: Reply from Toyota: So Toyota have not even bothered to hide the catalytic converter or conceal/protect it as standard even for newer models.

Ever since I have owned a car, I have done my own oil service. This is the first time I have done an oil change with my current car. It was last done July 2015 before I owned the car. I did some research and bought the oil filter removal tool - The other problem was getting the correct oil (0w-20) which is quite expensive. I bought my oil from Euro car parts at £30 plus the oil filter. My earlier post below mentions the "wrong" grade by some of the major sellers. My drive is raised about 1.5ft above the ground level of my house, so I can access the under side without using ramps or jacks and stands. The under tray hatch is secured by three push fasteners - same as on the engine covering. Just push the centre of the fastener in, then pull the the outer to remove. Very easy. Old filter and gasket. Oil filter housing with new gasket plus the new oil. Sump plug before draining. Location of the oil filter under the car. Note the additional new fibre washer on the sump plug. The new filter also came with a smaller plastic attachment and seal for a different type of fitting. These were not needed. When everything was replaced, tightened and checked again, I reset the fasteners by pushing the centres out, then placing them with position after closing the under tray hatch. Press the centres home to secure the fasteners. Then refill the engine with the new oil. The key point is, Toyota saw fit to add the hatch to the under tray, instead of having to remove the whole lot, like other cars. That is a major time saving point! The only thing I may need to do in the future is the auxiliary belt. When I last checked it, the belt was fine. Probably get a spare.

I don't blame Toyota. They seem to have done the right thing in offering to supply/fit a plate at cost price. Maybe its not that simple/practical to just move the cat converter to some other place. You could put the blame to the government of the day for all the cuts to policing and local authorities. Or you could say it society itself where badness is deemed acceptable.

Thanks I’ll sort it out ASAP

I wish lol Built the bike batteries at work, used cells that were classed as past it lol

my advice is if it looks deep then dont try going through its not worth the risk of replacing the engine . i have locked an engine in the past with water i was very lucky as it didnt do any damage probably the fact i was driving slowly and my car at the time was diesel so the engine parts are stronger after it dried out (3hrs later) it turned off the key and started i just had to flush the engine and change the oil & filter.

I am sure, Ant can make his own in his hi-tech private workshop of his! 😉 When you do, Ant, remember commissions for James (for his pointer), cut for TOC (for the selling platform) and a free beer for me (because I am not heavy, I am your brother) 🍺🤣

Hi Tony HSD, thanks for your reply. I wont be going through anything too deep as I want to keep the car long term. I don't want to damage it. Think 8 inches deep is plenty as my most expensive car! My 1996 Volvo 940 auto cost me £250 3 years ago and is still totally reliable workhorse at 202,000 miles. Also had a 1989 240GLT estate auto for 10 years as my only car. Sold last year for £500 with 237,000 miles and for more than I bought it for in 2009 and put 76,000 on myself. I have always liked Toyota/Lexus and the rear wheel drive Volvo 2,7,9 series. James.

Hi James, you can literally float through deep water without problems as long as you keep air intake dry, and best slowly in ev mode. There are videos in YouTube crazy Russians driving Prius gen 3 through rivers and lakes where usually “Uaz and Kamaz “ goes, those are heavy duty local made off roaders and trucks 😉, however engine hydrolock it’s not the only issue you will have. I don’t recommend you going through water deeper than 15cm or 7-8”, water needs to be max 1/3 of the full size of the tyres, the most vulnerable things are your wheel bearings, they are not designed to work under water and despite are well sealed water will get inside if they are submerged, consequences are premature wear and failure., plus water may well goes into your boot through the air vents that you have behind rear bumper. Water is not a good friend with the cars especially the winter salty cocktails that we get here in UK , they really help the cars get rusty as hell, I don’t think anyone needs more than that. Brakes , suspension, ball joints and anything that has a lubrications is at risk, plus going through deep waters you will get water inside your transmission where the damper clutch is, you don’t need that. While you crossing waters once you feel water is touching footwell under you feet that’s it , no need to go deeper if you want to stay on the safe side and has no trouble with you car in long term. Regards

Try driving in a multi-storey car park if there is one handy nearby, open the windows and/or moon roof and you can really hear it then. Also, the volume is higher in reverse than forward gears.

Cheers Tony Ahhh, we go back a long way then (even though I am not so active on here) Showing my age now, - I did love my old MK4 Golf V5 auto (petrol) - And the MK2 Skoda Superb DSG (TDI) - The most fun was the Mk1 Focus manual (TDI) - As was the Mk1 BMW 120 auto (TDI) But, as I aged 😞 , things are no longer the same. I freak out at the sound of snow on roads, I panic when my car is near its warranty expiration date, a twitch in my auris when I break over metal covers on road just sends a bolt down my spine - eeek! 😲 I really want another Toyota Hybrid, but it's just too risky in the current climate. I think I just need a reluable run-about for my 20,000 annual commute, then I be back buying the Toyota CH-R in a couple of years time when they are cheaper and 'cat' theft is back to norm of single digits a year We shall see what I get, and god forbid, be reporting on here how bad and costly the new car is in a couple of months time - and when 'cat' theft are almost non-existent due to new legislation/enforcement and I then wished I stick it out and stuck with. Toyota Hybrid ....hmmm🤔

Have you had the codes read ? p Lock is usually a flat aux battery - replace the battery with same type only (AGM) You can check the 12v battery voltage by putting the mfd into maintenance mode There is a work around by pulling a 7.5a fuse have a look on youtube

Glad you found it useful, Brendan 👍 I have submitted an FOI request for breakdown by vehicle models for the latest data available from the following Police forces: 01. The Met 02. Nottingham 03. West Yorkshire Hopefully, we get something back in the next couple of weeks....

Thanks to Wayne for coming up with the FOI data from the Met Website - very interesting. A very quick look shows that about 2/3rds of Catalytic Convertor Thefts appear to be from Toyota Prius. But interestingly the more detailed list by model from Barnet shows Prius being misspelled and thefts being allocated to several different models of the Prius. If you add all these up, then in Barnet from Oct 2018 to April 2019 then almost 80% of the recorded thefts were from Toyota Prius models. This data is only up to April 2019, but the upward trend is striking with each month showing a large increase in the number of thefts. Our Catalytic Convertor has (fortunately) not been stolen, but we know several people who lost theirs last summer/autumn. We have an "early fourth generation" model, and our Toyota garage just a few days ago said the catloc device is not yet available for this model, but will hopefully be available from March or April. If you have a "later fourth gen." the catlocs are available. But they only offer limited resistance to theft, said the garage. Not a good situation!

Fun car and agree a lot nicer to drive, loving my X-Trend Aygo 👍

Shame about the stickers saying that still looks good, that spoiler looks canny too.

I live in central EU and cat thefts are more or less nonexistent here. The laws can be changed, your government just does not care. If i was in such danger of getting the cat stolen, i would investigate alternatives, like taking the cat out myself, putting a straight pipe, or cheapest cat i could find, and if needed some dummy sensors to not impair cars functionality. Spending more money on a cat lock, then having that destroyed too, and your insurance premium also going up, is absurd to me, you try to play nice while everyone else out there is playing another game.

I find the Yaris boring to drive in comparison, yes its smooth, but I prefer the Aygo's way of going.

Maybe I should buy my next car from you (eBike with even bigger battery) 😅 Ps: it doesn't have a 'cat' does it ?

I think the figure of 1L/1000km has been in the handbook of every car I've ever had, Fords, Vauxhalls, Datsun, Audi and of course Toyota. Its just some ancient industry recognised figure that seems to be rolled out to cover every engine.

Probably the only car that is safe is Fred flintstone’s car Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm having a total 'mare sourcing a factory 'bootlip' wing for mine, m8. The 2.0L is regarded a bit iffy for serious revving.... A long legged loper + ideally on an Auto (see: Camry). You can't save em all..... 2sav

I may have a little news regarding spares for my Carina E, but I'll be able to say more later in the week. All I can say is that the car is a 1996 2L auto, with about 77,000 miles on the clock. I only wanted the bumpers as they are the smooth style ones, so I can put my stickers on them, where as mine are the rough plastic type. I've ended up buying the car, as the doors are better than mine, as is the boot lid (as mine was magically dented). The down side is, the doors have electric windows and mirrors, neither of which I want, and yes I understand it would be an upgrade, but I plan on having carbon door cards. The boot has a Toyota spoiler fitted, which if removed will leave holes in the boot lid, and I'm not sure if I want the spoiler on my car, as it's not in keeping with the 1994 BTCC version. So I may end up with it, and do a kind of Super Touring Car thing, who know's.. I may just get a Focus ST or Clio 197 lol (joke). The "spare" Carina has a few marks on each bumper, and a few little marks on the doors, but are in better condition than mine, and although both cars are Toyota white, we shall see what 2 years in age has done, and although mine is white, it's almost like a Honda championship white. The "spare" Carina has more mod cons than mine, and to be honest, it's to clean to scrap, far to clean. I've lot's to research as although the engine is bigger, and about 20 bhp more, it's not really what I want to have, plus it's an auto, so converting it to a manual is a ball ache ? or so I would assume. The other dilemma is, how many spares do I keep ?, as I still plan on changing/up-rating my discs and calipers, and doing a rear disc conversion, so that kind of rules out the brakes. Or do I keep this as my daily, and just make mine full on track car lol. One thing I do know, it will provide plenty of content for my YouTube channel lol.

Here's this weeks episode of my car show.

I suspect it's the Benefit In Kind tax for company car users that will be of most interest of those affected. That said, I never ceased to amaze me the number of people I've known who switched to diesels when the VED cost saved them the equivalently of just one of two tankfuls of fuel a year. Quite a few of them had usage patterns that not only didn't benefit from diesels over ordinary petrol equivalent, their mpg was actually worse (on a more expensive fuel!). Add in the fact that (at the time) the cars a couple of them bought (a Corsa in one case) were about a thousand dearer to buy than the petrol equivalent, servicing was more expensive and the resale value at about three years old was significantly less than a petrol model - and that was before diesels fell out of favour.

All Corolla are same as Prius gen 4, there are some cat plates on eBay , they look well made and can do same job as Toyota ones. I personally fitted to my cars and all looks pretty good, will stop the thieves, I am not sure but will slow the whole process down and that might make them look another car. Hopefully. This is the plate: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283661401217

I have replaced the connector. It was not too difficult. Take clear photos of the plug and cable colour/order. Just remove the white insert to access the terminal pins and tags. Then using a small flat bladed screwdriver, release and push out each of the pins. The wires are firm and stay in place, so it's a matter of swapping the plugs. Push in all the cables until they all click into place, then replace the white insert. The new plug is tight on the coil pack, and everything runs fine as before.

Just wanted to share this with you guys. This is the AVAS sound on mine... I ordered this in May and it arrived in Jan.. gues I got a lucky MY20 http://s000.tinyupload.com/download.php?file_id=97797596339248041694&t=9779759633924804169492652