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    RAV4-D4D

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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/28/2020 in all areas

  1. BlackCircles are owned by Michelin, of course, and that's why they're always doing discounts on them. But their other promotions come and go. It's always worth taking a look. This one's for £40 off 4 Goodyear Vector All-Seasons, or £25 off 4 Kumhos. https://www.blackcircles.com/offers This one's for 10% off two Michelins: https://www.blackcircles.com/offers/flashsalemichelin . There seems to be another one on Michelin CrossClimates, which ends next week. Anyway, get yourself onto their mailing list,and they'll tell you what's coming up. Alternatively, think "what the heck, it's only a tenner a wheel", and get the ones you want now. 😂
    1 point
  2. Change the $%^%$%£ Battery
    1 point
  3. You'll see I tried heat wrap in one of my attempts to fix the problem - it did help for a while but the problem got worse over time (the heat cover is still on so that wasn't the cause of the deterioration). Clean the earth cable connections before you do anything and see what that does first.
    1 point
  4. You are right, These days fitting is so expensive that almost make no sense to buy tyres and pay for fitting separately, £15 upwards per tyre it’s insane. Will see next week what I am going to buy. Maybe a call to Toyota dealer if they price much as they said on the website.
    1 point
  5. No, not heard the name before, I'll search him and give him a try, thanks. Just spoke to Paul, great guy, cant believe I've not dealt with him before! Hes sorting me out so wanted to say thanks for the pointer.
    1 point
  6. Well, I used to have P6s on my Focus estate, and they were just fine. That £44 looks cheap compared with the £64 that BlackCircles are asking, but of course you need to allow for the fact that the Amazon tyres don't include fitting or disposal, or any of the other gubbins that they usually hit you for. 😐
    1 point
  7. I use CC quite a lot - I even activate for a couple of miles on the way home from work even though that's a single lane road. It comes into its own on the motorway and the addition of radar control was much appreciated. If it doesn't work in snow it wouldn't bother me since I'd probably not use it under those conditions anyway as it would be safer for me to be in control of the pedals. I would never buy a car without some form of CC as I consider it to be a safety feature for long journeys.
    1 point
  8. Cars which start fine when cold - fail to start when hot but start OK when left for a while often suffer from heat soak of the starter motor. Engine heat causes the starter motor to increase in temperature - this increases the resistance of the windings - the current load increases and the car becomes difficult to start. If the motor is left to cool for a while - the car starts fine. Proprietary heat covers are available but at least one forum member solved the problem by wrapping the body of the starter motor with exhaust heat wrap.
    1 point
  9. Hi, thanks for the reply. I was aware of the head gasket issue so if I went ahead and looked at this motor then that would be the one question i was going to ask!
    1 point
  10. That sounds like a well worn engine. Does it make a lot of noise - rattling - when cold. That is timing chain wear. The sound you hear could be tappet clearances and timing chain. A change is a PIA - done it myslef - and with genuine parts will cost at least £200 in parts . You need to remove one engine mounting and the crankshaft bolt can be VERY VERY tight. It is NOT a job for the incompetent, inexperienced or badly equipped mechanic.. Then you will want to replace the auxiliary belt.
    1 point
  11. Hi, I did on mine at 100k miles, once under the alternator could see there had been a small leak from the thermostat seal., just make sure the little hole in the stat is uppermost. Also used comma G30 after a good flush of the system and used De-Ionised water, ( in most large supermarkets/motor shops) , putting the concentrate in first then adding the water.
    1 point
  12. Better to ask your Toyota Dealer, its their warranty.
    1 point
  13. I have a corolla 2019. Speakers are not bad. I've just fitted underseat subwoofer and that does the trick. Deeper bass without losing space.
    1 point
  14. Diag process says check fuel supply from filter to Pump, check for contamination or debris blocking the fuel filter or fuel pick up gauze in tank. I have seen this code a fair few times where a black sludge bio matter has grown in the diesel fuel in the fuel tank, it clogs the pick up gauze and clogs the filter. Beyond that the diag become much more involved perhaps register and pay for a few hours access here: www.toyota-tech.eu and you can access the full repair manual for your car.
    1 point
  15. If there is no audible rattle, dont touch it. Main thing to keeping the chain healthy is regularly changing the oil and filters, so dont skimp on those.
    1 point
  16. Does anyone with a Prius PHV gen2 know the maximum charging rate when hooked up to a 22kW (or even a 43kW) charge point? My gen1 PIP can do 2.4kW/h when connected to some 22kW units but only does 1.9kW/h on my home 3.6kW charger and public 7kW chargers.
    1 point
  17. I believe it's capable of 3.3 kW max. There may be inaccuracies in smart meters and the likes.
    1 point
  18. Very close to 3.5 kW/hour on my home 7kW charger. I get a half hourly breakdown from my electricity supplier. This shows just under 2kWh for three half hour cycles, then a reduced amount on the third. Total charge from empty, as recorded by the charger, is usually just over 6kWh.
    1 point
  19. This is going seriously off-topic, and you probably know this, but anyhow... An influence on this exhaust design, as I always understood it, is that there is an economy/efficiency benefit to having separate exhaust pipes for each cylinder (in an in-line 4 cylinder engine, at least), and then joining them together at a calculated length. Each positive exhaust pressure pulse has a negative pulse following it down the pipe, and this pulse can be used as a scavenging aid to another cylinder that is in a different part of its cycle - if the exhaust pipes are joined to be the correct 'tuned' length, anyway. I think there is a design conflict in 'losing' these separate lengths of pipe when having the catalyst close to the engine as possible, for rapid heating. With a turbo fitted, this pulse scavenging opportunity is lost, but then the exhaust energy is recycled mechanically through the turbine instead. On the Yaris they would seem to have fitted the cat. integral to the end part of the manifold (called a 'manicat'), perhaps there was more space available for the pipe length? On three cylinder engines (and so 6 cylinder also?) the exhaust pulses aren't phased correctly, so there are little/no benefits to be had through tuned lengths (new Yaris hybrid 1.5 triple?), so the exhaust manifolds can be short, keeping the cat. close to the head, and the warm-up cycle short. I think on some small modern engines the exhaust manifold is actually part of the head, to make this engine smaller, cheaper and 'cleaner'. The shorter manifolds allow the catalyst to be close to the head/block, and therefore much harder to steal. Happy to be corrected if any of this is wrong, obviously.
    1 point
  20. Dinitrol products highly regarded, way better than Hammerite. A little more expensive but worth it. Another less well known one is https://www.bilthamber.com/ Probably on a par quality wise
    1 point
  21. Take a look at my post, top of page 5 on this thread. Start by cleaning the electrical contacts - free and takes about 30mins and for the benefits of others please post back how you get on - thanks!
    1 point
  22. The fourth Generation Prius was, in most respects, the best car I've ever had, but with a couple of caveats: The roof starts sloping downwards from above the drivers's head, and it's the first Prius version with compromised rear headroom - it's ok for some, but I found it hard to get in the back, and I couldn't sit upright because the roof was too low. But the killer for me was the low floor and seating. It was really comfortable while seated in the front, but getting it and out caused such massive problems with my hips, which spread to my knees and back, I just had to get rid of it. I was very sad to see it go, and I wish there was some way I could have kept it. I quite like my RAV4 Hybrid, but I like it an awful loss less than the Prius, except that my pain had completely vanished by the time I'd had it 4 months. I even started investigating having the Prius fitted with air suspension so I could raise it for getting in and out, but it quickly became apparent that would have been way to problematic, not least because I'd have lost the spare wheel well and some of the boot. Plus I didn't relish trying to persuade my insurer the modification wasn't about getting extreme handling capability! I ruled out most other manufacturers' Hybrids because I also wanted the planetary drive train of the Toyota/Lexus system, and not a dual clutch system or some of the other Hybrid variations used. In fairness, I must say a friends Skoda with the DSG gearbox is remarkably smooth for that type of transmission, but I still would find it annoying after some 330,000 miles in Toyota/Lexus Hybrids. Some reviewers in the USA think the latest incarnation of the Honda Hybrid system is now better than Toyota's system, but it's only available on the C-RV SUV in the UK - in the US there's the Insight, a Prius lookalike that now has the new system too. As far as I can ascertain, the electric motor does almost all the driving at most speeds, and when extra power is need the engine starts but powers generator to give a boost to the electric motors. At higher speeds, when needed, the engine can be connected to the drive train via a clutch with a single speed gear, but only at higher speeds. It means the Honda system can now do all the tricks of electric only, electric plus engine and engine only, but achieved in a very different way to the Toyota system. Before this, all Honda Hybrids had either a manual gearbox and clutch (like the first Insight), or a 'proper CVT gearbox (containing cones and belts) mated to a torque converter. I would have chosen the Honda C-RV Hybrid if it had a spare wheel, but it didn't. Also, the Hyundai looks like it has even worse rear headroom than the 4th Gen Prius, so if that matters it would be worth checking it out before considering one.
    1 point
  23. I've had, since 2002, RAV4, Corolla, Prius 2, Prius 3, RAV4, RAV4 Hy, Prius Plug. In the 90's I also went through 3 Diahatsu ( same marque now ). I've had Land Rover, Datsun (!), Hillman, Fiat (yeuch!) and Rover. None have compared to the reliability of Toyota, though Toyota have had some niggles and questionable interiors/switch positions to their cars :D. If only they'd hurry up and sort out an EV that's worth looking at. Mind it'd have to be good to surpass the usefulness of the plug-in ( even in HV mode with a heavy battery! ). We're likely coming up for a change this Summer....
    1 point
  24. We looked at the Hyundai and thought, yes, this is impressive and it doesn't compromise the boot space with the battery! However no one came over to us and we were not impressed with the showroom overall - so we went to look at the Kia Niro - smaller with variations from HV to EV. Tempted but then went back to Toyota, for a more expensive plug-in - but at least we know Toyota! ( Mind we change dealership which helped..... )
    1 point
  25. Hi, I had this with my RAV; I replaced the battery, replaced the starter, heat shielded the starter and cleaned all the electrical terminals (in that order). The first three masked the problem to some extent but in the end I think the main thing that sorted it was cleaning the electrical connections. I do quite high mileage so I've done approx 5k miles in that time with plenty of hot starts and it's not recurred once. The first connection between the negative terminal on the battery and chassis is easy to find, the cable is only about 6 inches long and you just need to unbolt them and clean with wire brush or similar (I also took the paint off the chassis to help the connection as I think it relied on the bolt). One day I'll pop a little battery paste on them connections to prevent corrosion. The second cable is found under the air filter box and it's a hose connector and three bolts to remove this., Underneath you'll find another cable and you need to clean it up as before. I'd start with that as it's free and takes about 30-45mins. Good luck!
    1 point
  26. The 1.8 valvematic petrol engine as fitted to the T27 (2009 on) has plenty power, but needs higher revs to get to it.
    1 point
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