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  1. Wayne2015

    Wayne2015

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    TonyHSD

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    MagicBoy

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  4. Auris James

    Auris James

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/11/2020 in all areas

  1. Of the first two letters of the current number plate system (known as the memory tag) the first letter is an area identifier used by DVLA, and the second letter is the postal area. So in the case of James' Auris, the 'F' is 'Forest and the Fens', and 'P' is the postal area of Nottingham.
    3 points
  2. There is a way to wash your cars without hose and running water, it is ok , I personally done it many times and no badly scratches. You will need two buckets full with water, one with your regular shampoo mix and the other one with two synthetic chamois clothes inside. Do wash only if the car is cold and under shade , never under direct sunlight! 1. Start washing your car from roof , windows, windshield, bonnet, boot, halfway doors, bumpers, if the car is very dirty change the bucket with new mixture fresh water and shampoo, now wash the bottom half of the doors, bumpers and wheels and tyres, use as much water on the washing mitt as possible, keep it wet and clean as much as you can. 2 . Rinse the car using very wet cloth from the second bucket, start again top roof and work your way toward the bottom of the car, wheels and tyres last , use as much water as you can each time you apply the wet chamois cloth. 3. Once the car is all rinsed dry with micro fibre cloth. 4. Dry and c,Dan the door shuts, boot and bonnet shuts too if you like. 5. Now you can do the windows the way you like. 6. Interior clean, you can use small 12v hoovers powered from cigarettes light socket or battery one. 7. Johnson baby wipes and microfibre cloth for interior panels, or microfibre cloth and Spray some multipurpose cleaner that has no strong agents in, I use detoll Bacteria killer without fragrance works best, and kills bacteria. Well that’s it, now your car is clean and you can have a cup of tea or cappuccino and enjoy watching it. ☕️👍🚙
    3 points
  3. 2.0 petrol in the UK is 1AZ-FSE engine which feature Direct Injection. More complex and less reliable than the 1ZZ-FE in the 1.8 I live half the year in Thailand and the Corolla is by far the most popular taxi. For many years there were 80000+ Corolla with 1ZZ-FE running around Bangkok. They keep them 7 years or 700 000 km. They have a tremendous reputation for reliability - I spoke to many drivers over the years and never heard a bad word said about this engine.
    3 points
  4. Thanks. As a fish tank owner, got the buckets already ... the issue is more getting the two buckets of water down to the car park from multiple floors up! Did a have a camping type water carrier somewhere now I think about it... Interior is clean - luckily have a cordless Dyson.
    2 points
  5. 2 points
  6. That is a hell of a nice present to receive from ur wife, (I should drop a few hint's to mine - ha.) nice colour, ur previous Celica was beautiful. The new one look's pretty mint to. They are a lovely looking car, Enjoy.
    2 points
  7. Your cars alway look like new, I like clean cars a lot. 👍 here some pics from my job yesterday. Lockdown otherwise I will probably not pay that much of attention as I need only two days of work and the car will be dirty again, but weekly mini valet keeps it on good condition. Twice a year hand polished and first time clay bar. Here is my job from yesterday:
    2 points
  8. 2 points
  9. Mine the same Looks shiny and pristine from the pics (after a wash) - but in fact it's covered with stone chips, scratches and dents
    2 points
  10. Hi Wayne, I haven’t done any pics but it looks same clean from outside but I did deep clean on door shuts, and all gaps between different panels then clay job all around and hand wax to preserve the paint. The whole car suffers from stone chips, but I mean a lot, some are very tiny and some are so large and deep that the metal is damaged under, but this is the price for excessive motorway journeys. Overall the car looks like new if you don’t pay attention to that. May take some pictures later and show them . Regards
    2 points
  11. You only need to remove the bottom bolt, the caliper will then swing up to reveal the pads. The bolt is going to be tight so, you'll need to use a decent socket because you don't want to round off the head. I like to use a six point socket (single hex) to make sure that I get it first time.
    2 points
  12. Hi all, used to have a Celica T Sport but had to let her go two years ago [emoji17] Adored that car...anyway fast forward to three weeks ago and I posted on Facebook how this was my favourite car I’d owned (had 30 cars now!)....didn’t think anything else about it until about ten days ago...when the wife turned to me out of the blue to say she’d bought me another one as a second car! Now it need some love but it’s solid and everything works and she goes as she should...going to start work on it once the bits arrive, keeping it standard and want to get it back to its best so if anyone has any bits knocking about please let me know [emoji4] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  13. Lovely shape! Your one lucky man, to have a wife who buys you your ideal 2nd car! James
    1 point
  14. Cheers buddy, this one needs some work but I’ll get it sorted Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  15. Just a short update in case someone else might have this issue in the future.. After i deleted the code, it has not come back. Some 3-4 starts, mostly short trips + heavy pulls, and a bit higher rpm here and there to see if anything happens, so far nothing, MPG is normal. I established that the car runs great on cold, or for 10 seconds or so when warm, but restarted, and sluggish on warm, which i presume is when the pre defined variables are used, instead of a closed loop and calculations based on sensor data values. My suspicion is still on MAF, but im waiting for a cleaner to arrive. Air filter ok, service done 5 months ago, new NGK spark plugs also fitted then, cca 2.5k miles or so.
    1 point
  16. There are many sites with simple guides like iFixit, i have been repairing phones, consoles and laptops/notebooks since the early 2000's, every one and their dog does it these days tho
    1 point
  17. 1 point
  18. Thanks. It was the colour that drew me to it and that it had done 26,000 miles. I wasn't keen initially on the wheels colour but have grown on me and don't show the brake dust. James
    1 point
  19. Nope, Nottingham But, only James can confirm that
    1 point
  20. It has been changed as bought from Inchcape Burton On Trent as they have added their business name on the bottom of the plate. I believe the car was registered in Nottingham initially on a google search. Could have lived in Edinburgh at some point. James.
    1 point
  21. Toyota list colour as 11bk01
    1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. Ah I was talking in general (not lockdown) But, if it was open, will the police still tell you to do one (non essential) ?
    1 point
  24. 1 point
  25. Do what I do: 1. Just the glass/lights/alloys - 2 wet cloths to clean as much dirt from glass/lights/alloys as possible - spray RAINX 2-in-1 for quick clean/rain-repellant on all glass/lights. Then buff with microfibre cloths 😎 - baby wipe clean alloys - dry alloys with kitchen towel - add sealant to alloys. Buff with microfibre 2. Inside, just needs a good trims cleaner 3. Car wash, not much I can do apart from take it to a car wash (or friend) - but I also have a neighbour who would wash my car for £5 (quick) or £25(mini valet) in my next street
    1 point
  26. I am not that fussy when it comes to car shampoo - it's the preparation and wax/sealant that I am particular about But, in the past I tend to stick with AutoGlym or Turtle Wax 😎 Since, I no longer have a drive, I rarely wash my car - but ocassionaly do take it to my friends to wash, last time he used...
    1 point
  27. Alloy wheels don't tend to have paint codes as they vary from batch to batch black is a hard colour to match too, you will need to get a paint shop to match it or take a gamble on the colour https://www.paints4u.com/
    1 point
  28. Some nice clean cars there! I gave mine a quick wash last week. Now dusty! James.
    1 point
  29. errr Bosch flat blades are called Aero-Twin https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/auto/wiper-blades/oe-specialty-aerotwin A single pantograph wiper has its benefits - no triangle of doom for a start
    1 point
  30. You have to watch the height on an elgrand as well! took one of mine to Paris couldn't park anywhere! all the car parks where 100 mm less that the height of the elgrand. Took a 3.5 v6 estima last time and it was fine everywhere but the mpg killed me ! if you are looking for an acr50 give me a shout back!
    1 point
  31. I have had aero twins on many of my cars, give the blades a wipe once a month to keep them grit free, one thing I don't like it style the yaris uses, the black cover tends to pop open if you don't clip it on exactly right combined with Autoglym screen wash i have never had an issue, but be aware there are fakes and b-grade/old stock on eBay that ship from Jersey and Europe
    1 point
  32. “non-Toyota Bosch flat wiper blades? “ - Correct, I did a research and according to all reviews these are the one to have especially if you are a motorway driver. There are claims that this type are the best in heavy rain plus high speeds 😂 my 65mph it’s very high indeed, but anyway I just wanted to try them, and yes they actually are good but they all good when new😊. That guy has some nice reviews.
    1 point
  33. Most people don't clean inside the fuel flap, so respect I missed my electric closing mirrors non-Toyota Bosch flat wiper blades?
    1 point
  34. They also incorporate a blade to cut through the safety belt. Handy for when you u hanging upside down after a crash.
    1 point
  35. My car was a 1.2T with CVT. The dealer was pretty happy, a non-hybrid with automatic, and capable of towing 1200 kg. That would be sold pretty easy. The car was just serviced, gearbox oil changed at 40.000 miles, always washed by hand, whats not to like?? But it turned out to be a 5 months sale... Apart from that, my experience is, that Toyota dealers trade in used cars at very good prices. And gives nice discounts on new cars as well.
    1 point
  36. Dear Frank Your math is more than right, but we're looking at very different vehicles and the proportions are not linear. Let me explain in more detail. Full-hybrids have an electric motor that helps the petrol engine, so both the maximum power of the electric motor and the power and capacity of the hybrid battery are very small, just enough for that purpose. On my Corolla hybrid battery has a capacity of 0.75Kw/h !!! Let's assume that both a Toyota Corolla and a Renaul ZOE need the same power of 20 kW to run at the same speed. The Toyota battery has to deliver 26 times its capacity, while the Zoe, thanks to its large battery, only needs about 0.5 times. In these years of activity on electric bikes I have learned that when you overcharge a lithium battery (but maybe it's true for all of them) you lose drastically a good part of its capacity. This is the only way to explain the poor EV range of Toyota. As far as Plug In Hybrids are concerned, the ratio is more in line with pure electrics. In fact they have batteries around 10 Kw/h which are subject to a lower discharge rate. In my project I refer to the power consumption of the Plug-In and that is about 5 Km every Kw/h of energy. Best regards Nuccio
    1 point
  37. Maybe we should do some math (please allow me to use metric dimensions, I am far more familiar with that): My Yaris Hybrid uses a NiMH battery which enables the car to run about one kilometer in EV mode. According to the specs I found, the battery has a capacity of 0.9 kWh. Let's assume that the car needs one full battery charge for one kilometer, then it would use 9 kWh for 10 kilometers and 90 kWh for 100 km. This would be absolutely hilarious, because a Renault Zoe needs about 15 kWh for 100 km. On the other hand I know that Toyota uses only 60 percent of the technical battery capacity in order to maintain a long battery life. So, normally the battery is never completely charged nor completely discharged. If I take this into consideration and assume that my car may be able to run up to 2 km on electricity only, i get a power consumption of at least 25 kWh per 100 km. This sounds disappointing, but also reasonable. I have read that the new Mercedes C300de burns more than 40 kWh per 100 km, which makes it cheaper to run on Diesel instead. And people who make a mission out of burning as little fuel as possible with their Toyota Hybrids stay away from running the car on electricity too often, because recharging the battery costs more fuel than driving the car. The next problem: If I would install a bigger battery and a plugin charger, I would not do that to get my lousy electric range from 1-2 km to still lousy 2-4 km. I would like to have at least 40 km, enough to go electric from my garage into the city and back. That mans that I would have to tenfold (at least) the battery capacity of my car. Now I have a battery pack which is about 30 to 40 liters big (bold assumption) and weights 35 kg. Let's tenfold that, and you get a battery which is 300 to 400 liters big, weights 350 kg and costs 10,000 Euro (when built with used components). This does not sound promising, I think... Best regards from Bavaria Frank
    1 point
  38. Thanks PeteB your information is increasingly convincing me that doing a Plug-In retrofit can be invasive. So thanks to the arguments read on this forum I think that what can be done without complicating things is a downward compromise. We can call it - light Plugin -. I've drawn a rough sketch that I hope will give an idea of what I'd like to do. Then we will discuss whether this can solve the long list of issues. The plugin is drawn in red on an old Prius diagram.
    1 point
  39. I read somewhere that in the very earliest experimental versions of Plug-In Prius Toyota used two 'ordinary' HiMH Hybrid batteries, one on top of the other (half filling the boot). It was said to be an early attempt to develop the changes to the rest of the Hybrid system to manage the different charging and discharging requirements, and the changes necessary to allow higher cruising speeds and better acceleration in EV mode. I guess they had other teams working separately on developing the LION battery technology necessary to make it all work. I awaited the arrival of the 'official' PiP with eager anticipation, having had occasional use of a company 2007 Gen 2 Prius with a Plug-In conversion by a firm called Amberjac. It used LION technology and they managed to fit enough juice into it to give almost 40 miles EV. It still had the problem of needing the engine as a heater, and didn't have the benefit of heated seats. The clever thing about the conversion was they made no changes to the Hybrid setup - it plugged into the same connector as the old battery and 'lied' about the state of charge, claiming the battery was maxed out until the State of Charge got down to (IIRC) about 15% then behaved like a standard Prius. The maxed out condition made the system use EV mode as much as possible, and with medium acceleration would get up to around 60 mph without bringing in the ICE. I could get up to about 1½ thousand miles out of a tank of petrol sometimes. The 40 mile range almost covered my journey to work, and at home I charged it on overnight off-peak electricity, plus daytime recharges at the office. Even at 70 mph, although the engine would be running, it was only doing 1100 rpm and was assisted by the electric motor while the HV battery had enough charge so used much less petrol than a normal Prius at the same speed. AND they managed to keep the space saver under the boot floor. By 2011 Amberjac ceased operations as with the imminent arrival of an official Toyota Plug-in Prius demand had all but gone. The conversion at the time cost between £8,000 and £10,000 on top of the donor Prius. Because the conversion was done with no modifications to the core Hybrid systems, apart from the battery swap, all other original parts of the car were still covered by the warranty, although as it happened this car never required any warranty work. After a few years my old firm sold the car to a chap who worked in the Hybrid industry and had significant skills to support Hybrids. He ran the car until a few years ago, charging it entirely from his wind turbine. He also hacked some setting in the ECUs to stop the engine starting to warm up. [The same chap bought by 2nd Gen 1 2002 Prius saloon when it was 9 years old with 163,000 on the clock. Last I heard, he had sold the Plug-In conversion Prius and it was still in daily use].
    1 point
  40. Watch some good youtube videos on it before you even take the wheel off.
    1 point
  41. Toyota and other car manufacturers have spent millions of $s £s on Research & Development to bring a new model through all its stages of testing etc into production, let it be a fully plugin electric, a self charging hybrid or a plugin hybrid, using the best automotive brains and technology available to them. Therefore I think its highly unlikely that an individual would be able to improve on that, no disrespect intended. Enjoy your new lovely Toyota Corrolla.
    1 point
  42. There is no need to use copper grease (it's not grease in any case) on brakes. The only part that needs lubrication is the slider pins. New cars don't come with their brakes covered with any type of grease and if the job is done properly, it should be like a new car.
    1 point
  43. Brilliant, thank you both for the advice, I really appreciate it. Chris
    1 point
  44. Just buy a T-Sport they are so cheap in the UK these days. You need more than just the engine
    1 point
  45. I wouldn't bother !! Find another car the cost by the time you swap the engine/box, sort all the electrical, fuel system, suspension and sort out the brakes then the added cost of insurance as it would be a modified car, its just not worth it Eg. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Yaris-1-5-VVT-i-2001MY-T-Sport/143545479387?hash=item216bfa30db:g:w8EAAOSwFxhddqwe
    1 point
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