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I would be very interested to know how long you had left the car parked up before your battery went flat. Could be a useful warning for other owners.

Hey guys, my 2016 Toyota Yaris Hybrid (German model) is fitted with a tire pressure control system which alerts you when one of your tires is losing pressure. I had issues with that system recently, so I'd like to share my experiences, maybe they are helpful to others: The system is based on sensors in the valves of the tires. They transmit their readings by radio frequency to the onboard computer. In order to work together, the valve transmitters have to be registered with the onboard computer. The computer can deal with up to two sets of tires. As far as it seems, the tire pressure warning light in the cockpit has three modes. As soon as you start the car, the light briefly lights up to show that it is working, then it goes off again - this is the normal behavior: No warning light, no problems. As soon as the light goes permanently on, the tire pressure of one or more tires is out of the normal range. And as soon as the light is flashing, the system has problems reading the sensors. You most probably come in touch with the system when you change your winter tires with your summer tires, like I did yesterday. My car was factory equipped with 195/50 tires on 16 inch rims. When I bought it in October 2019, the dealer put it on 175/65 winter tires on 15 inch rims. I stored the winter wheels with my tire dealer. Yesterday he exchanged the wheels again. And today I had a tire pressure alarm, which was both with a flashing and a permanent light. So I had both to reconnect the sensors and set the right pressure. This is what I did: 1. Locate the secret button. There is a little black pushbutton hidden under the dashboard, it is marked "Set", and you probably won't find it without a torch. 2. Start the car. I have a Hybrid, so I start the Hybrid system. If your Yaris is not a Hybrid, just switch on the ignition. 3. While the warning light is flashing, press the set buttons three times. Do not hesitate too long, three times in one second is a good try. The warning light starts to flash slower, then it stops flashing and starts to run permanently. This is a good sign. Leave your car on at least for two or three minutes. Then switch it off. If you switch on your car again, the tire pressure warning light should not flash anymore. Most probably it is on permanently now. Hint: When the warning light is on permanently and not flashing, the computer can read the sensors, but something is wrong with the pressure. 4. Setting the tire pressure: You put the pressure on your tires which your users manual recommends (or which you want to have). Then you have to calibrate your tire pressure warning system to store this pressure as "normal". This is how it is done: 5. Switch on your car. The warning light starts to light up permanently. Then press the set button a few seconds, until the warning light flashes three times. Then leave the car on for two or three minutes. Then switch off the car. You are done. You probably have to repeat this procedure when you change to wheels with a different dimension and/or with a different tire pressure. Or when your pressure sensing valves have to be replaced. This worked for me, I hope this also works for you. Best regards from Bavaria Frank

Another thing that sprang to mind is a loose engine mount. Had a thunking sound on my Leon on start and stop due to the dogbone mount that had worked loose.

I do not know if the CVT has the same connection at the gearbox end of the change cable as the earlier T25 but if it has a ball joint connector like the T25 ( I do not see why it would be very different) then the ball joint at the cable end can become stiff and lubricating will help ease the action.

Many years ago my wife took my car to a garage as there was a terrible knock each time she took a sharp turn. Mechanic saw nothing untoward. When I met her at home I took the skateboard out of the boot 😄

WD40 is not a lubricant. It will wash existing lubricants away. Use as a lubricant is possible, but it won't last long. It will clean crud from assemblies to make them move more freely, but then you need to use a proper lubricant oil or grease to maintain them.

Moved to the Verso club.

Split into new topic.

An interesting read, I can't decide if the car suffers from bump steer or camber pull. So far since I've owned it I've had the the tracking done twice, and a four wheel alignment, and on a smooth surface the car just tracks in a straight line, but the roads are basically so terrible where I live, full of uneven surfaces, and huge swells where the tarmac has been pushed up, well it's hard to tell. Don't get me wrong, the car handles SO much better than it did before, and the levels of grip are insane, but it does wander around a little over bumps. I have lowered it about 1 1/2 inches, and because the car runs on 17" alloys, it's pretty much back to stock ride height. I want to wind down the coil overs even more, and go for that touring car look, which I understand is going to require some set up changes, and even more suspension parts, but I'm very happy to do that lol.

Hi, you can spray some wd-40 through the key hole on the door and push in and out the key few times, if never used and never lubricated it is very difficult to turn indeed. If no luck again you can take the key to a local locksmith and ask if they can copy using a base of proper key so you have more power to turn. Hopefully will do it for you. Good luck

Do you suffer 'bump steer' now? Or are you concerned about this effect of lowering, once you do it? Camber and caster and roll centre are all going to be a trade off, once you start changing things..... https://suspensionsecrets.co.uk/caster-2/ Keep up the 'toobing', m8 🙂 2sav

I would not call 5w30 incorrect as you mentioned. There are grades of oil recommended as per vehicle usage, climate etc, and both oils are correct, though lighter oil should be better during cold starts, but the difference in mpg i would mostly attribute to cold weathers and car spending more time running lean. The actual difference between those 2 oils should be negligible in financial aspect of mpg consumption. Both oils are better in some degrees, but i would not call one more superior than the other, if they are both same brand. If 5w30 is stated in your manual, car should run just fine with it.