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My Fuelly sig shows over 4 years I get over 55 mpg all local, 2-3 mile, short journeys and without trying, I just drive it normally. I doubt if my ICE even gets warmed up during winter. Show me any petrol or diesel 1.8 litre automatic that can do that.

You’ll love it, the best Corolla ever and that’s saying something.👏👏. Send a few pictures when you can.

The underside looks more or less like like mine, since we got same age/engine. Nothing serious, mostly surface stuff, and mine newer spent more than 10 days near the sea, and only in summer.

Thanks Tony Not sure about quiet - determine to get those all seasons you recommended last time - even if it's a slightly different profile...

I am glad that the poster got his money back. The work carried out was not professional and it's like a cover up work. The underside doesn't look too bad for a 2007 car.

Well Lee, at least he owned up to his attempt to con you. But I would imagine your threats to expose him publicly led him to do so rather than his conscience. That’s one guy that you won’t be going back to again. Stick to the man who is doing the air conditioner

Just had a call from the dealership, I have an appointment to pick up the car 3rd June.

Having a relative who works in the industry (not refining), theres a few points. Don't use supermarket fuels, they are generally poor quality imports and don't form the necessary droplet size for modern engines. Apparently budget fuel has some serious issues around crap in it, and the forecourt tanks bear this out (water content etc) Yea, V power type fuels are better as they are gas based, not refined as in the usual stuff I used to use additives, but they don't mix consistently, and yea that's logical, they are pure placebo, and may do more harm with washing oil off the bores etc apparently With regard to better mileage, this could be ambient temperature increases, as well ad driving style now you have the additive in. From what I understand there is very little, if any research to support any additive. Yea, racing teams use similar, but they blend custom fuels very carefully, they don't pump it on the forecourt.....

I got a result guys. He's going to give my money back! I took my car to another mechanic down the road (who is currently re-gassing my aircon, he told me to come back at 11am) and told him how upset and angry I am about the undercoat job. He put it up on the ramp and we took a look underneath. First of all, two of those pipes are RUBBER! I squeezed them myself. They're just covered in mud and obviously not rust! Yet he unnecessarily painted the rubber and didn't even rub off the mud first. The two metal pipes that lead into the rubber pipes are not that bad and don't really need replacing. However, the mechanic doing my aircon said the metal pipes can be easily replaced without replacing the tank, they're £130 from toyota and with labour would cost me £265. Not £600 to £700 job with new tank as I was previously told. While the guy is doing my aircon, I took the opportunity to walk to the offending garage mechanic which is only a 5 minute walk. I didn't go in guns blazing but I didn't mince my words and gave him the information I'd just learned. Told him he'd ripped me off for £150 for a job that was not only done wrong but was unnecessary. Told him he should have at least cleaned the surfaces instead of painting over mud clumped rubber. He reckoned he wire brushed the metal pipes and he tried to demonstrate to me how his spray can of black paint goes all clumpy, saying that's the way it's supposed to look. I told him that he could have just replaced the two metal pipes, or inspected it and told me nothing really needs doing. I told him he didn't sandblast it as he said he would. He kept making excuses for everything I said, it was his word against mine. The mechanic doing my aircon even told me that you shouldn't sandblast those pipes anyway. So I'm taking the car back at 3pm. He never got stroppy with me, he just kept trying to justify his terrible work. He said he'll clean off all the paint he put on and refund me the money. I probably helped get my money back because I said to him I don't want to have put a bad google review with before and after photos of how he painted over rust and mud. Also, while it was up on the ramp, we had a good look at the rest of the underside and it's ok, not particularly rusty like I was told.

I'm with top comment, just looks painted over. Check the surrounding areas, still look the same on before and after pictures, there was no sandblasting there. Looks like he just painted it from the bottom side, and the top side could still be untreated. Check the top side if you can, it does not look trated, like he just sprayed from the bottom side and done with it. If yes, and there are still entry points for water on the top, the bottom which is painted will just keep the water in making it worse. If it was me, i would just get a steel brush, knock off what i can, then apply some thick oil to it and drive down a nice dusty road.

I would check with the dealer. You have not experienced abnormal temperatures. I doubt the roof has anything to do with anything. I have no problems, and it's been 26 here, much hotter in the car when left outside, so you have something else going on specific to your car. Maybe you have a battery fan failure, an obstruction in air flow around the battery, or something like that. If you were driving across the Sahara, maybe the car would behave differently, but temperatures are hardly at those levels yet. Best get it checked out before the summer starts , or as soon as your service centre reopens.

It's look like 3 coats of paint on top of the rust! Did the person rub/sand the rust off before applying the pain to?

I doubt that you are forensic investigators based on your last reply. Even if toyota did listen to what you said and would monitor your location, what would they do with that information? Unless you are doing something illegal or maybe work for a secret organization (which if you did you would know how to disable the module) you have nothing to worry about. Also watch out for those 5G antennas, i hear they are quite dangerous these days....

Your English is perfect, I understood your writing but my point with the water is that sometimes even the drainage tube looks clean from inside the car, may have been disconnected or blocked from outside end from driving through high grass in woodlands or something, just double check again under the car, if water runs after ac use and it’s hot outside your drainage works fine, You said that you had use some cleaning sprays to clean the air vents and passages, that can also cause you a problem. If you have a fungus built on air ducts best way to get rid of them is to start the engine, turn on heater at max temp and set the air flow middle of dash, once the engine temp is high enough turn the heater blower fun to speed 3 and leave it like that for 20 min, the high temperature will dry completely your system and kill the bacteria. When using AC switch it off 3min before you turn off and leave your car parked, this procedure will dry eventually any moisture left after air con use. You can try this tips. Good luck

Needs to have the features removed for UK market Blind spot monitoring Rear cross traffic assist (now with braking as per my20 chr)

Wayne it’s not safe to drive anymore on those tyres, especially on a motorway where high speed is involved. The three main safety issues on a car, are tyres steering and brakes. If any one of those are not in good condition, then it’s an accident waiting to happen. For not only your own safety, and for other road users change them asap.

I’ve always used V Power and as well as muting the engine note a little bit (to my ears) it burns a lot cleaner than regular or supermarket fuels - so good in the long run. When I worked at a dealer I asked the techs about this and premium fuels are better for the engines.

The 2.0 Hybrid is fitted with a P711 type transaxle: HYBRID TRANSAXLE SYSTEM GENERAL GENERAL OUTLINE A P711 hybrid vehicle transaxle is used. Containing the motor (MG2) for driving the vehicle and generator (MG1) for generating electrical power, this transaxle uses a continuously variable transmission mechanism with a compound gear unit that achieves smooth and quiet operation. This hybrid vehicle transaxle assembly consists primarily of a generator (MG1), motor (MG2), power split planetary gear unit, counter gear, final gear, differential gear unit and oil pump. By utilizing a pluriaxial configuration for the generator (MG1) and the motor (MG2), the overall length of the transaxle has been shortened. A compound gear that consists of the ring gear of the power split planetary gear, counter drive gear and parking lock gear is utilized to drastically reduce size and weight. By using high accuracy machining for the gear tooth surfaces, low-loss bearings and an oil sling type lubrication mechanism, driving losses have been reduced resulting in improved fuel economy and reduced noise. This transaxle has a 4-shaft configuration. The power split planetary gear unit, an oil pump and generator (MG1) are provided on the main shaft. The MG2 reduction gear and motor (MG2) are provided on the 2nd shaft. The counter driven gear and the final drive gear are provided on the 3rd shaft. The final driven gear and the differential gear unit are provided on the 4th shaft. A differential pre-torque mechanism is used. Straightline stability and acceleration performance during periods of low load and low differential rotation when the vehicle is being driven normally are ensured. Lubrication for each gear is performed via the trochoid oil pump of the main shaft and final driven gear slinging up ATF. Through the use of a lubrication structure (oil sling type lubrication method) in which the gears sling up ATF, reduction of oil pump drive loss and enhanced transmission efficiency of the powertrain system have been achieved. Also, a water-cooled type oil cooler which optimizes the flow of ATF is used to achieve high cooling performance, resulting in a high efficiency and high output powertrain. *1 Generator (MG1) *2 Oil Pump *3 Motor (MG2) *4 Final Driven Gear *5 MG2 Reduction Gear *6 Final Drive Gear *7 Counter Driven Gear *8 Planetary Ring Gear *9 Power Split Planetary Gear Unit *10 Counter Drive Gear *11 Parking Lock Gear - - *a Main Shaft *b 3rd Shaft *c 2nd Shaft *d 4th Shaft *e Differential Gear Unit *f Compound Gear SPECIFICATION Item Specification Transaxle Type P711 Shift Position P / R / N / D / S Power Split Planetary Gear Unit No. of Sun Gear Teeth 30 No. of Pinion Gear Teeth 23 No. of Ring Gear Teeth 78 MG2 Reduction Gear No. of Drive Gear Teeth 16 No. of Driven Gear Teeth 49 Counter Gear No. of Drive Gear Teeth 53 No. of Driven Gear Teeth 49 Final Gear No. of Drive Gear Teeth 22 No. of Driven Gear Teeth 76 Total Speed Reduction Ratio*1 3.193 Fluid Type Toyota Genuine ATF WS Fluid Capacity Liters (US qts, Imp. qts) 3.8 (4.0, 3.3) Weight (Reference)*2 kg (lb) 96.7 (213.2) *1: The ratio of the combination of the counter and final gears. *2: Weight shows the figure with the fluid fully filled. HYBRID TRANSAXLE SYSTEM CONTROL SEQUENTIAL SHIFT FUNCTION The sequential shiftmatic system enables the driver to select an appropriate shift range among 6 stages of engine braking force by operating the shift lever or shift paddle switch (transmission shift switch assembly). By controlling the engine, generator (MG1) and motor (MG2), this system improves the generation response of the engine braking force. In addition, the engine speed is controlled to maintain high speeds, enhancing acceleration response when the driver depresses the accelerator pedal. By moving the shift lever to S, the automatic shifting mode will be switched to shift range selecting mode. By operating the shift lever or shift paddle switch (transmission shift switch assembly), driving in the shift range selected by the driver is possible, and the accelerator pedal characteristics and acceleration response can be selected. Performing a "-" (downshift) operation with the shift paddle changes the system to a temporary shift range selecting mode when the shift lever is in D. By operating the shift paddle in the same way as when in S, shift range selection is possible even in D. As a result, the level of engine braking force can be selected by operating the shift paddle without the need to remove hands from the steering wheel while driving. In shift range selecting mode, when low shift range is selected, the engine braking force becomes greater during deceleration and the motive force between the accelerator intermediate and fully open range becomes greater during acceleration. Table 1. Acceleration Characteristics when in Sequential Shiftmatic Mode Shift Range Characteristics Low Shift Range Change in the driving force output between when the accelerator pedal is intermediately depressed and the fully depressed position is increased, improving the vehicle response to the driver's pedal operation. High Shift Range Change in the driving force output in accordance with changes in the accelerator pedal depression amount is decreased more than normal, thus enhancing accelerator control making it easy to maintain the vehicle speed during constant-speed cruising. Tip: The sequential shiftmatic system does not indicate that maximum vehicle speed and maximum motion performance have been improved. Also, when the shift lever is moved to S, accelerator characteristics in drive mode (Sport*1, Sport S/S+*2 and Eco) are disabled. *1: Models without adaptive variable suspension system *2: Models with adaptive variable suspension system An S mode position signal is output from the transmission control switch to the hybrid vehicle control ECU when the shift lever is moved from D to S. Then, the system switches to shift range selecting mode in order to enable shift range switching operation using the shift lever or shift paddle switch (transmission shift switch assembly). By performing a "-" (downshift) operation with the shift paddle switch (transmission shift switch assembly) when driving with the shift lever in D, a shift-down signal is output from the shift paddle switch (transmission shift switch assembly) to the hybrid vehicle control ECU the sequential shiftmatic system switches to the temporary shift range selecting mode, which makes it possible to perform shift range selection even with the shift paddle in D. In shift range selecting mode, by performing a "+" (upshift) or "-" (downshift) operation using the shift lever or shift paddle switch (transmission shift switch assembly), a shift-up signal or shift-down signal is output from the transmission control switch or shift paddle switch (transmission shift switch assembly) to the hybrid vehicle control ECU, and the shift range is changed. While using the selected shift range as the upper limit, an optimal shift point is automatically selected in accordance with driving conditions. Holding the shift lever to "+" (upshift) in S will change the shift range to the S6 range regardless of the current shift range (S1 to S5). In order to protect the transaxle, when accelerating while any range between the S1 range and the S4 range is selected in shift range selecting mode, sequential upshifts are automatically performed up to the S5 range by exceeding a predetermined vehicle speed in each shift range. The temporary shift range selecting mode with the shift lever in D is canceled in the following conditions: The "+" (upshift) side shift paddle switch (transmission shift switch assembly) has been operated for a certain period of time. The accelerator pedal has been depressed and held for a certain period of time in the same shift range. The vehicle has stopped. The shift lever is moved to any position other than D.* Tip: *: When the shift lever is moved to S, the system changes to the S position shift range selecting mode. Limitations Regarding The Sequential Shiftmatic System Upon receiving a downshifting request issued by the driver through the operation of the shift lever or shift paddle switch (transmission shift switch assembly), this system limits the changing of the shift range if the vehicle speed exceeds the limit speed, and informs the driver by sounding the buzzer in the combination meter assembly. Table 2. Limit Speed for Downshifting Downshift Request Limit Speed (Reference Value) 6 → 5 - 5 → 4 160 km/h (99 mph) 4 → 3 119 km/h (74 mph) 3 → 2 85 km/h (53 mph) 2 → 1 47 km/h (29 mph)