Leaderboard

I have driven the Corolla on test drives with both engines, but don't own either. As well as all the above, which I agree with, here are some other thoughts: At least initially, drivers often comment that during spirited acceleration, all the previous Toyota hybrids to varying degrees, have allowed the engine revs to climb quite high and the engine to be quite vocal (some have described this as 'mooing'). Some find this off-putting, at least at first. This is quite a contrast to 'normal' driving where the engine is very, very refined. The 1.8 engine an improvement over the older 1.8 engine that preceded it in the Auris, in this 'mooing' respect. But the 2.0 is sufficiently brawny that, even if this hybrid characteristic is at odds with the civilised character of the car, you won't be hearing so much of the noise, because the car will just get to your desired speed much faster, at which point you back off the throttle and peaceful progress is resumed. If you are well-used to driving a turbo diesel or turbo petrol car, then the extra urge of the 2.0 helps to make up for some of the effortless torque that you have given up when deciding not to buy another one. Having said that, the 1.8 is unquestionably enough, and as Autocar magazine highlighted in their long term test, getting good mpg out the car can be a very addictive game to engage in, and the car may change the way you drive and your attitude to driving in the future. Perhaps to the extent that you will no longer really need the performance that the 2.0 gives, because your driving has changed! This is all extremely subjective, and the road tests were a while back.....

I have the 1.8 and it's just alright, fortunately with the electric motor you get a pretty good acceleration from a stand still but as you accelerate more and more the less power you get. I would suggest to do a test drive with both engines and see which one you like most. However the consensus is this, if most of your driving is in the city and you're usually stuck in traffic and you don't go on the motorway all that often go for the 1.8. If you do go on the motorway a lot (and you don't want a diesel) you go for the 2.0 for the added power that you get. The 2.0 gets similar consumtion figures in town but in general i'd say the figures are usually 1 - 2 liters higher consumtion (this is of the top of my head, other members with the 2.0 engine can correct me).

So great to read Luke. I ordered my 1.8 TS end of February so im hoping mine is nearly close to being built. Were you using the app or the website to keep on top of the build? Everyone happy with their new cars ?

I once had abs, epb, vsc lights on at the same time. When I checked it the code indicated 2 faulty O2 sensors. I fixed the brakes and the fault codes cleared themselves, even the abs light (after disconnecting the battery for a few minutes)

As others have said the 1.8 is perfectly adequate for all types of journey and it is more efficient than the 2.0 in overall terms ...but the 2.0 gets my vote for a few reasons. The main reason is that because there’s more power, there’s more of a feeling of effortlessness in the driving. The revs rarely will go above 2500 in normal driving and it settles to 1500 -2000 on the motorway. Plus the ‘rubber band’ effect is a bit more pronounced in the 1.8 too - even though it’s much improved. The 2.0 seems to have ‘fixed’ points in the Rev range rather than just revving up when you put your foot down. Indeed, it will only go above 4000 when you really floor it. So it’s quieter for more of the time. I really like the paddle shifters as they allow a bit more control over the drive, I mainly use them for adjusting the engine braking effect but they can be used when driving across country with limited effect but to me it makes the drive a little more involving and less one dimensional than not having them. Lastly the power is probably going to be appreciated when loaded up with clobber and family stuff. As for fuel efficiency mine has improved more than I thought it would now warm weather is here. The trip say 56.5 for this month and 58.4 on the tank which is mainly around town but been on the motorway a bit recently too. The 1.8 would beat this though I’m sure. Hope this helps.

Reset procedure works. Make sure the caliper pots actually are positioned correctly and the pads are fitted securely to the key on the pots. Then press the foot brake to adjust the brakes correctly before actuating the epb. The same as any other parking brake system.

The 1.8's performance is fine for normal driving. I've never had any difficulty keeping up with people and rarely even push the car beyond 2,000rpm which is about where the battery starts to help out. There's some nice power even on the 1.8 if you get the battery involved but to my mind that's wasteful. I prefer to only use the battery at low rpms where it can do the most good. Some people like to accelerate hard (and often brake hard) and a hybrid will at least mitigate their worst excesses. But if it's good economy you're after then as with any vehicle moderate acceleration and avoiding using the brakes is the way to go.

1.8 or 2.0 for M-Way driving? All depends what driving style you prefer. I didnt have a choice 1.8 or 2.0 because I got a Prius, but even on MWay journeys I very happy. I can cruise comfortablly at 70mph, but dont like being in a cluster of vehicles at that spped (or any really) so if I get a safe opportunity i will acceterate away easily until their is a reasonable gap between me and the rest. So a 1.8 Corolla would be absolutely fine with me.

As the current Corolla has only been on sale for 15 months, you're unlikely to get ownership experience of both - ie you may get views from members who own a 1.8 or a 2.0. Better in what respects?

have a look at the front parking sensors install manual, it usually has a good routing diagrams LHD i take it. Pages 23-25 https://www.toyota-tech.eu/aimuploads/1305201f-3283-4e28-8e74-02225c09c235/TPA-Front-CorollaHB,TS_LHD_AIM004 331-4_PW501-02110_06DE4485D.pdf

Yes, I would agree with you. Perhaps a way to put that to the test might be to check an an engine that has not started burning oil, and see if the EGR carbon build up is proportionately (by mileage) less, or even barely existent at all. My spare EGR cooler allegedly came off a written-off Prius with 55,000 miles from a small, local breaker's yard, and it was a long way from blocking up, but it wasn't that clean either. I might have a picture of it somewhere, taken before I cleaned it. But the car breaker was able to quote the mileage of the car so quickly, you might question the accuracy of that mileage figure! On a bit of a whim, I have just contacted Shell UK technical department (now in Singapore, actually) about the use of V-power fuel, to see their opinions on it cleaning piston rings, especially oil control rings (they say they wouldn't expect it to, it's too far away from the combustion area), and also, if engine oil burned in an engine suffering poor oil control would be any less likely to produce soot if was using synthetic oil (over mineral or semi-synthetic), they wouldn't expect to see any difference in that, either. I also asked if using their V-power fuel would have any beneficial effect on EGR cleanliness at all, in a modern petrol engine, they said it would not help. The answers were what I was expecting, I was just interested to see the Shell official view on this. The chap was very friendly and patient with his answers, he was in no rush to 'get me off the line'. There were one or two questions he was a little hesitant on (but there was some time-lag on the line anyway) - he suggested I might like to try emailing - productinfo-uk@shell.com, I think this may have been because of his potentially overstepping the mark in some answers. He would not be drawn on answering model-specific queries, as he said that it was not for Shell to comment on other company's designs.

I finally imported my Toyota Century into Virginia, U.S.A. guys!! You have no idea how sleek this puppy is up close. https://youtu.be/SvsAFmHTCN4

In the event that you did need a coil pack, then it is worth shopping around. I have just bought one for our 2001 1.4 Corolla vvti (I think it is the exact same part as a Yaris, as it happens), I got an NGK branded one (made in China) for well under £40. It's a perfect fit and has cured the bad misfire (which, helpfully, did throw an ECU code up). I checked the Toyota dealer price, it is £168. This is the second (different!) coil I have had to change on this car in the last 2 years, the car's done 130,000 miles, for what it's worth. The previous coil I bought was an Intermotor branded one - there are plenty of choices, many I'd not heard of. Intermotor was a make of electrical parts I'd known about for decades. It was at the cheaper end of the price spread, it is still working fine. Off the internet, the Intermotor is available for under £29, if you don't mind the wait, and are happy that the coil is at fault. The price from a breaker is around £18, with a 30 day warranty. Not exactly a bargain.....

Get Techstream plus a lead. Check out eBay.

Thank you Eddie, I agree, and hopefully later on I'll be able to get the car resprayed professional.

Fronts = cartridge/insert. Rears = full leg. Got all mine from MicksGarage, Ireland. Quick and direct from stock.... I did do some 'ebay digging', originally, but some odd dampers would be listed in Croatia or Belarus with vague charcoal sketch imagery 😞 Mick was the way to go 😉 Springs are original and clean. The red is very fetching, m8 2sav

On Wednesday, My Toyota status started showing "In Transit"! The car is built, has left the factory and is in post-manufacture inspections, tests, checks, etc before heading out from Burnaston on a transporter to Bracknell. Yesterday I was at the dealer signing various paperworks including the DVLA paper to confirm registration details. Once the car arrives the dealer will fit some accessories I ordered so things look like they could be on track for me to pick up the car within the next week. Excitement building! 😊

Haven't looked at all the recommended links that was suggested as a solution, so my suggestion may be something that was mentioned there.. I have used the below technique on 3 of my own cars and 2 of friends' cars, and came across is on the internet. The procedure is super simple. You take a spray can of disinfectant (originally I got the idea from a US source where everyone used a product called Lysol, and I've found that the UK equivalent is Dettol, and I think the EU equivalent is Domestos). Point is, that it's a very powerful disinfectant spray to disinfect the air in a room etc, but it should be left to work and not inhaled, because it's quite agressive apparently. You start the engine and have the fans blowing on full with air-recirculation off and the AC pump running, temperature set to the coldest, and spray the content of the spray as much as you can into the air intake underneath the windscreen, where the car sucks in the air from the outside. On some cars access is relatively easy, on some it's relatively difficult - on my Avensis T25 it's unfortunately the latter. The idea is that the spray is run through the air intake system where it kills bacteria and other baddies causing the bad odour. I always had all the doors and even the bootlid open because my aim was to get rid of everything that had run through the ventilation system. I had the air blowing out on all possible ducts (passenger + footwell), started it with the temperature set to coldest, then when the can felt half empty, I switched over to warmest setting. Once the can ran empty, I ran the car for another 20 minutes (10 minutes on cold, 10 on warm blow - this was all just improvised really, I wanted to air the disinfectant out as much as possible). Finally I had all windows down or doors left open for an hour to make sure all the disinfectant is aired out of the car. These sprays come scented (even though it says on the can that it shouldn't be inhaled) this comes in handy because once you're done with the whole shebang, the less you can smell the spray in the passenger compartment with the fan on and off, the better it all aired out (at least that's my theory) I tried this method as a last resort in my old Nissan Almera first, which had a well working air con but the previous owner didn't use it and the smell it emitted was absolutely atrocious, one started coughing and spitting up one's lungs in chunks even after half a minute of the aircon being turned on. I tried a cheap Aircon cleaner product first (a la Poundland) which had a long nozzle so you could spray it deep into the air ducts and some of it also in the air intake - it made a huge disgusting mess because the foam was obviously coming out everywhere (dashboard, seats) and resulted (in my case) in no detectable improvement in regards to the smell and the throat irritation when the aircon was turned on. The dettol trick (I purchased 2 cans because I was 99% sure that this won't work either and the problem will only be rectified with some professional cleaning/flushing/whatever of the entire syste) worked flawlessly - ONE CAN eradicated the problem COMPLETELY! I couldn't believe my nose! I'm not saying it will help you, or anybody, but I've been doing this time and time again with absolute satisfaction. If the problem (smell) would have persisted, I would have definitely tried to get into the system and look for trapped moisture but even in the worst case (the Nissan) it turned out to be a permanent (and unbelievably great and super cheap) solution.* God bless the internet, the USA and Dettol, and may he have mercy for the souls of all the dead bacteria which were clearly harmed through many of the successful applications of this method! *T's & C's: your mileage may differ :)

Techstream is official Toyota software for editing these parameters. Mentioned options are non-existent and cannot be changed. I believe these functions are set in ECU and can be changed only when it is unlocked or hacked in some other way. But say goodbye to warranty then...