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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/24/2020 in all areas

  1. £350 to get the wife of your back ....sounds cheap at the price 👍🏻👍🏻
    3 points
  2. Rims Real Big I had these Borbets lying around from my old 306 XRDT. I only had it about a month before a bus wrote it off. Insurance wouldn't pay for the wheels, and I could barely give them away let alone get decent returns on them. After they sat for a month, we sidled up those deep dishes against Carry's steel wheels and had a vision - one that would not be realised without toil. This all had to be done before we move out. The offset looked about right, and the diameter was perfect. I knew the 185/50 r16s would give a good balance between comfort and responsiveness, whilst the heavy alloy would facilitate smooth wheel rebound after bumps. Thankfully, their centre-bore is oversized so no issues there. Our first problem was that the Peugeot's PCD is 4x108 (unlike the Toyota's 4x100) - some Lithuanian eBay adapters would solve that. But the hubs are studded, so how to fit a socket around a nut within the adapter? Internal drive tuner nuts are too long and would contact the wheel. Best to order first and think about later, I concluded. So yes it turned out that we needed 19mm (rather than 21mm) nuts. The only available candidates were Ford, and cost £44 pounds from HK Automotive. But some lazy measurements would see us in the woods yet still. A few hours of shaping the wheel's back face later and they were ready to go on the car. Let me tell you how it is. Like that? Buy that. 16s ride that. Ladies, Gentlemen, gangstas, pimps, b&*^3s, stunnas, shiners. The fitment is excellent, however the fenders do need to be rolled perhaps 2cm or so. I'm very happy with the look. After all was said and done, we found some 19mm M12 nuts that would have fit inside the adapter perfectly (and so not require any shaping of the wheels) in my mate's possession. Here's what he had to say about it:
    2 points
  3. Hi. I have a 2004 t-sport. Rear brake discs need replacing. Have managed to remove ns disc and caliper so all fine there. Problem then started when got to the drivers side. Managed to remove bottom caliper bolt, but have then managed to round off the other one as well as the 2 slider bolts. Does anybody have any tips as to get them off and what the replacement part numbers are and where to get them during this lockdown. Cheers Trev.
    1 point
  4. I’m sorry to hear of your trouble with the MMT. This is a known weak point on these cars. I have (extensively) posted my experience with this box in our Aygo, so I summarise here for you: I bought this car brand new in 2009 at the time of the original scrapage scheme. It came with a 3 year factory warranty. I knew the car would be trouble but we bought it as that’s what my father wanted. At the end of 3 years and (IIRC) 20K miles it suffered gear selector failure (wouldn’t go into gear). Recovered to Toyota who diagnosed it needed a new clutch and assembly - covered under warranty. I opted to renew the warranty with Toyota as I figured it would break again and I didn’t want the hassle of grappling with third party garages for repair. In the 11 years we’ve owned it, it has needed a new clutch and actuator assembly like clockwork every 3 years. The Toyota warranty has paid out every time without quibble and I don’t think I’d want to pay £1.5K’ish every 3 years. I’ve said it many times before: if you own an MMT, buy the Toyota warranty. The cost will pale in comparison to getting the MMT fixed as it will go wrong. We are on our 4th clutch/actuator and when I can no longer renew the warranty, that’s when I’ll sell it.
    1 point
  5. most of the 4x4 systems are transverse engines with the box and transfer case as one (bolted together) eg.. 2L gt4 anything is possible, if you have the time, money and skills, edit. What about a later 2GR Project Binky, goes into a lot of detail of the gt4 4wd system
    1 point
  6. All good information, Tony. Just on the quantity though, this is a 2008 Prius, so Gen 2, like mine. I found that I put back in a tad over 3.7 L. Go slow with the last 100-200 mL, you don't want to waste any new oil. Also agree, use only Toyota ATF-WS. Mine came in a 4 L tin. You need a 24 mm socket for the fill plug (recommend a 6 point socket) and a 10 mm hex-key socket for the drain plug. I filled it from above. To do this I used some vinyl tubing to extend a standard funnel, but if you have a pump, you could pump it in from underneath. It is a quick and easy job, just as easy as a regular oil change. Maybe easier, as there is no filter to change. All the best, Stephen.
    1 point
  7. My daughter has a MMT Aygo and as a retired mechanic I look after the car , I’m fully aware that if the MMT gearbox has a problem it’s a main dealer only fix as they have the electronics to do the shutdown and calibration procedure. I’m my opinion you need to get the car back off the garage working on it and bit the bullet..... get it fixed by a Toyota dealership .
    1 point
  8. The Toyota MR2's name was changed to MR for France as "MR deux" sounds like the French word for sh*t.
    1 point
  9. it seems a bit steep to me but without the codes it's hard to tell if they need someone to diag the codes i would be going elsewhere - the actuator would also need to be calibrated
    1 point
  10. 1 point
  11. Scar, on the touch nav system. Press setup, general, scroll down to software update, here you will see the state of your system. i think latest update should read Audio 1011 Nav 1530 navdb-version 2020v1 This sorts out the problem with the nav always defaulting to north good luck
    1 point
  12. Thank you Eddie, I agree, and hopefully later on I'll be able to get the car resprayed professional.
    1 point
  13. A little early in the day, but here's this weeks episode of my car show, thanks for watching and sharing folks.
    1 point
  14. Many thanks for that. Order now just waiting for delivery next week. Now to complete the undersealing and fit these when they arrive cheers Trev
    1 point
  15. After some spirited driving last night the brakes on my t sport had overheated and when i needed them, they werent rly there. This scared the ***t out of me. I was just wondering if other Tsport owners had the same problem. And what they did about it/what they upgraded to looking forward to ur replies regards
    1 point
  16. I'd try to write the guy a message. I see he has not been around for some time, but maybe he will get it in the mail. This is just a guess, but have you checked the intake manifold? Maybe the problem is in air delivery, or flappers inside the manifold are somehow obstructing the air intake, but get cleared, or more open when warm?
    1 point
  17. Riccs breaks were far better than ine. And I was running RedStuff pads and EBC Discs. Ricc will agree that my breakes were garbage. I've just bought the same breaks as Ricc and will be fitting them tomorrow. When I drove his the other week my head nearly went through the windscreen.
    1 point
  18. The CTS (PFL, not sure about FL) unlike a lot of other modern cars needs the brake pedal applied hard as it doesnt have electronic brake assist, its a proven fact that in a lot of accidents the Driver doesnt apply the brakes hard enough. Our old CTS had Mintex already and they were an improvement on the original OE stuff, however the pedal still had to be applied with the same of force.
    1 point
  19. I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask this but I have an Aygo which I bought last year, because even though it's 2009 year the car has only travelled 9000 (proven) miles and it is like new. It was well above the average forecourt price but I didn't do my homework and now of course I'm paying for that. I lost drive in town without warning, I thought it might be the drive shaft so had it moved by AA to my local garage who said they did not want to repair it since they thought it was the Actuator (no idea what that was at the time), they introduced me to some one they use who said they could fix it and have quoted £1,000 (after I got up off the floor) I left it with them. Three weeks later it's still not fixed and more excuses. They have apparently fitted a refurbed actuator but have found it was the wrong one - how many are there in a little aygo? Now apparently they have to get someone who knows the Digital Trouble Codes (DTC) and so it goes on. So far it is currently cheaper than Toyota who quoted for a new actuator at around £1,350 plus fitting at extortionate rates. I just want to know if the estimated cost of this is about right, or am I being ripped off? SallyX.
    0 points
  20. Had a little bit of fun yesterday. I thought to myself, how hard can it be to remove some of the sound proofing in the car, well.... I picked up a couple of cans of -55 spray, and thought a quick flash of cold spray, and I'll be able to lift the stuff off the boot floor. 3 hours later and pretty much 1 complete can used.. So I'm now heating it and lifting it.
    0 points
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