Leaderboard

Yes, it happens all the time.There have been a few answers on this site, which include warming up the cooling system so the heater is ready if required, something to do with preparing the brakes (pressurising the hydraulic system, as with a non hybrid, the power brakes don't work unless the engine is running, not so with a Hybrid) , and other things I can't remember now. So the ICE does run when it is not charging the battery or powering the wheels. Basically, the Corolla is more computer than car. It is a shame Toyota don't issue a tutorial on how it works, for those interested owners who take in all the little quirks these Hybrids have. We just have to share information, and speculate on what is happening, much of the time! Unless a technician sees our query on this site and answers.

So last night me and a friend of mine were sitting in my car with the car in the ready mode, after sitting for a bit the engine came in as to fill the battery a bit since it was nearing empty. After a minute or so the engine went from about 1500 rpm's to 1000, the noise levels were reduced quite a bit and the animation on the screen showed that the battery was no longer being charged. The engine was still on for 2 more minutes, i got really confused as to why the engine was still on doing nothing instead of the battery taking over and switching the engine off. Has anyone experienced this before? Did the ecu not know what to do at that point? Note that i had already been driving around before coming to a stop so the battery was already warmed up.

Update July 9. Today the dealer examined the car and concluded: There is a fault in the A/C system. No disagreement that behaviours like the A/C turning off every now and again and delivering no chilled and conditioned air, only ambient, are not normal. In their inspection they noticed traces of oil on a component in the A/C system. They said that shouldn't be there! A full inspection and system testing will take place next week so that they can get Toyota authorisation for repair under warranty. In the meantime don't use the A/C (turn it off), just fresh air. (Hope they fix it before this alleged 30+ heatwave hits us next week.) They'll need my car for a couple of days and will provide a replacement for the duration. So not an ideal situation to have a fault like this in a brand new car, but it happens. What's important to me is how they address it and fix it. The dealer (Jemca in Bracknell) have responded to this very well and I'm impressed with how they have done that. Further update next week. Thanks again for everyone's insights.

I have a place near where I work that goes from national speed limit to 30 entering a village, after 20 yards I turn left and the limit goes back to national (normal large signs either side of the road), the car still indicates 30. After quarter mile limit goes to 30 again. When I go in the opposite direction I get the same. I think it uses speed limits in the sat nav as it's main reference and the camera as a back-up.

More likely because when you first tried the battery was too hot for the software to allow selection of EV Mode. The large amount of charge while descending a long, steep hill will have heated it up considerably.

The Corolla 1.8 and 2 ltr have different batteries. 1.8 is Li-ion , 2.0 is nickel-metal hydride. I have the 2.0 and it never shows full battery driving locally. But on a trip to Devon last year I descended a long Devon hill, and it showed full and kept charging for 5 minutes under breaking.

On my auris icon+ the engine never ever charges the battery to full but using the brakes down a long steep hill will. Interestingly when the battery meter showed full I could not switch it to ev mode it said ev mode not available until some of the change was used up.Don’t know if this will be the same on the corolla I am yet to find out as I haven’t got it yet! i am wondering is it because the corolla batteries are lithium where as on the auris they are nickel metal hydride I think.

Many thanks for the replies, the explanations given make sense. Quote from AndrueC - "They will generally beat the fuel economy of a petrol engine and with care can match that of a diesel" My last petrol engine car averaged about 38 mpg. My last car, a diesel, averaged 59 mpg and the Corolla, (using my own stat's), is doing 53.08 mpg after 14 weeks, so I am happy. 👍

In fact, if the gauge ever shows all 8 bars lit, and it's continued receiving charge until the battery will not accept any more (referred to as "Maxed out" - generally some time after the 8th bar lights up), the true State of Charge (SoC) is actually 'only' about 80% full. If empty (no bars lit) it would still have about 40% SoC. The gauge displays a 'window' of usable charge ranges that the Hybrid engineers deemed safe to allow. This, along with managing rates of energy flow into and out of the battery and cell temperatures is part of the 'secret' to the long life of the rechargeable battery pack. When the original Prius arrived in 1997, lots of doubters predicted masses of owners regularly spending a fortune buying replacement battery packs. Here's a diagram showing the ranges of charge the relates to each bar of the gauge from an older Prius versions, but the principal remains on current models: A 2002 first generation Prius I once owned had some 70,000 miles on the clock before I experienced a true 'maxed out' condition for the very first time. It was on a holiday in Scotland when I encountered some 5-6 mile long 1 in 5 (20%) gradient hills, and descending those saw the battery max out after 3-4 miles. The original Prius didn't have an EV button (nor ECO or PWR for that matter) but when I reached level ground I found I could accelerate moderately briskly up to 60 mph on electric alone, as the system tried to use up some power to make room for any further 'free' regenerated energy that could be had. The design philosophy appears to try to stay in the range of 2-6 bars lit. Any lower and the engine works harder to add charge, any higher and it tries to use some charge up. This is so that there's always enough energy to proved extra boost for acceleration or hills when needed, and nearly always enough room to receive regenerated energy from slowing or braking.

It is unusual to see a fully charged battery on the display. It usually varies between two or three bars of charge left at the bottom and one or two bars space free at the top. I've never seen a message saying that the battery is not available - it just refuses to take over. It's also worth considering that since all the energy in the battery originally came from burning fuel and since the process of putting energy into and taking it out of the battery incurs losses it's probably not optimal to force electric running at every possible opportunity. The battery is best kept in reserve to take over from the ICE at low RPMs (urban driving or maintaining speed on a gentle downward slope). The losses from an ICE running at low RPMs will be greater than the losses from the battery/motor so overall you save energy. This is why hybrids make great Taxis but are less 'spectacular' on the open road. They will generally beat the fuel economy of a petrol engine and with care can match that of a diesel but around town they are only beaten by a true EV.

Had the bonnet release stuck in the open position (as you said you opened the bonnet that morning). The mechanism needS to be cleaned/lubricated occasionally.

The computer system is programmed such that the battery will never be full, nor will it ever be empty. It’s to protect the battery, complete fill to empty apparently hurts the battery and will shorten its life. Just let the computer do it’s job, relax, and enjoy the drive.

This item AURIS Hatchback Oct 2012 Onwards Got these from amazon uk they are just like the originals £19.99 they’ve been great for me HTH

Toyota list them on their eBay store https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Genuine-Oil-Filter-Assembly-90915YZZJ1/322352370487?epid=645163305&hash=item4b0db2d337:g:0XcAAOSwdqNcSQcK £10.75 inc post https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Toyota-Lexus-Oil-Filter-90915-YZZJ1-OE-Petrol-New-Original/254374688597?epid=645163305&hash=item3b39e9b755:g:P4QAAOSwB8NdkbdL

It's a good question. But, no I don't, not yet got around to exploring the different driving modes. In normal all the time at the moment.

Many thanks to you both - I've had a look and there is a rubber pipe section to the breather pipe, and a chunk of it is missing! It looks like something's taken a bite out of it. It's secured at either end by hose clips, so will be a cinch to fix, but I will have to find a replacement hose from somewhere. My local garage won't do petrol tank repairs and no way am I using the main dealer again. So thanks again - I was able to go straight to the pipe thanks to Devon Aygo's exploded diagram, and Kithmo's response pointed to the likely problem area. Glad I posted!

May only be affected if a warranty claim arises which is dependent on correct servicing.

Picked my car up today. £120 for the service (not bad) but he only stamped the no 3 box in my service history book, so 1 & 2 empty boxes. Paid another £300 for fixing the damaged wheel and tyre. But at least my car is safe and running perfectly 😃 and remember to put a reminder in my phone for the next one! Thanks for all your comments x

Lots of people buy service plans for many reasons including 1) you can pay monthly 2) it’s usually cheaper then paying for services annually 3) you know you getting main dealer service 4) warranty is kept in tact. My Prius and the wife’s Auris service books include an air filter inspection at 20,000 miles, and change the cabin filter at 20k. Of course you can ask the dealer to change them every 10k if you want. Filters only costing a couple quid, my search says even the cheapest cabin filter is about £8, but if you want a better quality charcoal filter you paying more. And as for recommending an owner with a car still in warranty to “ go to a local indie garage with some kind of good reputation”. It’s ok to go to an indie garage for service whilst under warranty, but you forgot to add that the indie has to be VAT registered and in case of a warranty claim it is on the car owner to prove parts used meet Toyota standard. Other main car manufacturers will be the same. You may have a grump against Toyota, it when advising others what they should do, don’t forget the facts need to be right.

Possibly because if the 12v were to drain the hybrid battery then you really do have trouble. Apparently to charge an hybrid battery requires a special device and there is only one in the uk (it is so little required and probably costs too much for each dealership to hold one) and needs to be booked. If you leaving your hybrid standing for so long - i understand removal of one fuse will stop the draining problem - good theft stopper as well.

Unless they have changed something from the Auris hybrid to the Corolla it should not be an issue. Last year we parked our Auris and flew away for five weeks, when we got back the car opened and started no problem. Had the person with the problem got something active in the car like a dash cam etc!

Oiling all door and bonnet hinges and catches and checking and cleaning the battery terminals should be done by every good service mechanic as routine at every service.

I have just been out to oil my 08 Avensis bonnet catch. Thanks for the "heads up".🙂

Hahahaha yea man me too, had my car serviced yesterday and was told it was pushed back towards the end of the year... sad times indeed.

Don't take this personally Mary but what this Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk