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Shorter battery use and engine running more often can be a symptom of a blocked/blocking hybrid battery air intake filter see: There is no need to remove the seat base just the trims.

Remember, you must keep the vehicle fully switched on and running for the whole time the update is running and that can sometimes mean 40+ minutes for all the maps.

I've successfully performed the retrofit without any hitch on my MM17 system (with GO navigation) following the instructions from the official Toyota (www.toyota-tech.eu) Technical Service Bulletin BE-00439T-TME. I'm glad to have been patient enough to wait this long, and getting some official procedures rather than figure out through forums talking about the leak where there is so much confusion as to the order of USBs. Some dealers/mechanics might be reading this as well so I hope these guidelines are here to help them potentially also. If you want to do it yourself, pay 4 Euro for toyota-tech.eu doc access, get the TSB instructions, read a couple of times through, and track the steps whilst doing the retrofit. The TSB has a few screenshots out of order but the documented procedure is correct. Procedure with navigation followed sticks 1-2-1-3-2 (other people have said 1-2-3-2-1 works before this TSB was published but I didn't want to risk corrupting any of the stuff USB1 dropped in the system, it writes to memory addresses and places dropper files to help with the .sh bash script logic) Note: The procedure without navigation does not specify that you use USB1 at all, it outlines only 2-3-2. The device ID incremented by +1 verified during the version check between 1-2, and +1 again for the version check between 1-3. I speculate that a) either Toyota forgot about this or b) increments are used as some sort of operation verification during USB1's procedures or c) they are tracking how many people perform the updates. MyToyota had HARMANMM19RETROTOY along with the new total +2 incremented device ID, and I didn't have to do anything on MyToyota. Either b) or c) is likely reasons. For extra risk mitigation I checked the USB's for any errors before copying over the files from the official TSB, and checked the total byte size of files were the same, size of disk was different however but that's not a problem. I noticed USB3's VehicleParameter\DCU folder has lots of sub-folders which correspond to DCU part numbers, my DCU part number 86140-42580 was in there. Taking a look around in that folder there are configuration files env_pana and env_vehicle so I think that these correspond to my particular vehicles setup i.e. right hand drive, DAB radio etc. with this additional sanity check (which wasn't documented in the TSB) I felt confident that the upgrade will be okay for my particular vehicle. After all Toyota have done a blanket retrofit to target many different types of vehicles, its not impossible for them to have potentially missed one from the retrofit package. The retrofit takes time, be patient get some coffee or food. For goodness sakes don't turn off vehicle, or unplug any USB unless the TSB instructions tell you to. Also turning off (waiting 1 minute) and turning on the car between USB swaps must not be done unless instructed to, typically this is only required when doing firmware-to-firmware updates otherwise you do risk, and will likely end up bricking it. USB3's procedure will restart several if not more times, I actually lost count. This takes a while, and when things slow, it will tell you it may take a while. If you don't have the time to do it, pay your Toyota dealer instead. The guideline UK prices of £50 with service and £120 Corolla/£150 Rav4 without, matches up with typical hourly labour costs for garages. One the retrofit procedure was complete I had DCU:1075 and MEU:1120 for audio and navigation respectively so I manually updated navigation with http://streamtechdoc.toyota-motor-europe.com/techdoc3/audio_navigation/17TMT2EU-FA10_Latest.zip to bring the MEU up to 1140. I think that corresponds to TSB BE-00191T-TME - Toyota Touch 2 with Go (MM19) - Software fixes for MEU - Running Change 3 Whilst the TSB says "Once the upgrade has been performed, register the upgraded vehicle through the warranty channel. Please refer to the last page of the TSB "Registration of the retrofit through the warranty channel".", it doesn't have a last page corresponding to that. But the TSB also says at the end "to avoid any issues during the software upgrade installation, do not remove the USB key until instructed to do so, do not turn off the engine until instructed to do so. If you do not meet those requirements, the unit will be damaged, it will require a unit replacement, and no warranty will be applicable." So I take from that, if in the unlikely event a dealer bricks it, or the USB's get somehow corrupted causing an inadvertent brick, I would expect some unfortunate form of dispute which will have nothing to do with warranty but rather a legal argument of garage responsibility. I was apprehensive having my Toyota dealer do the retrofit especially when various official words from Toyota (pulled from other forums) say e-learning training is going to be available, colour coded sticks are going to be issued, I was already thinking crikey even Toyota tech HQ thinks that some dealers are going to mess up the procedure. I was contemplating giving mine a print out of the TSB and some USB sticks, weighing up what if they do it incorrectly are they going to blame my USBs, but after service desk said that they hadn't heard of it, and had not even investigated the TSB after I requested it a few weeks back prior to me coming in for the service, I was like I need a bit more competent confidence here, I'm going to do it myself. Toyota has done a fantastic job of making the retrofit available and actually making it not look like a exploit. They don't want people bricking units so they have complimented the retrofit TSB with instructions of what not to do on the head unit and it really is as simple as be patient, let it do its work and let it complete without interruption to the power. Product_Bulletin___Corolla___RAV4_Multimedia19_Retrofit_Delay___08.06.20.pdf

@CPN I found that out the hard way, but GUIFORMAT is a free download and runs without issue on W10. @sufy Once you have formatted the USB drive, make sure it is empty. Extract the files to a folder on your desktop, then copy the CONTENTS of that folder to the USB drive.

I have a pic that seems to show what you stated , that the pads were not aligned to the caliper cut outs and I think this caused all the problem. the guy that replaced them does a lot of taxis etc so should know what he is doing but i guess he is one of those that does the job rather than doing it properly. now that i have the equipment and knowledge i will never let anyone else touch my brakes. it is an easy job and i encourage others to DIY it.

I have seen pictures of these new Corolla with eco counter instead of tach rpms , perhaps is for the Asian market. I also did asked U.K. owners if there is an option to change that as it’s all digital but seems like only available is the clock with rpm’s .

Everyone can do traction battery check by itself using Dr.Prius app and carista obd2 adapter , paid versions also included prognosis for battery life, battery health tests and usually stats for all cells that can help determine if anything wrong with it. Usually Toyota hybrids batteries are of the small size, they can’t produce a lots of power for extended period of time, when is cold also battery loose some range, when hot also, especially using the air con is just killing the battery, it drains a lot faster than if without AC on, wind, wet roads, low pressure in the tyres and weight load also helps for quick battery discharge. Usually these cars are ok with battery, my 10 years old and 150+k miles still ok , but let’s see for how long more. If I can get 300k I will be very happy.

No, the Yaris are not prone to being stolen

I hope this soap opera has a happy ending !

(it's to prevent the head unit switching off half way through...)

Sufyan, I have no idea how proficient you are with Windows but try this... 1. if you are looking at that image that Martin sent above, select (highlight) the "nav" folder. 2. Press CTRL and A together on your keyboard. This will highlight all the files 3. Right click on any of the highlighted files and choose "copy" from the menu 4 Navigate to your empty USB drive 5. In the right hand window fo file manager (which should be empty), right click and choose "paste" 6. You're done

Format the drive to FAT32. From the ZIP folder you have downloaded from Toyota, extract the files to another folder on the desktop. Cope those individual extracted files to the USB drive. The files I have shown you in my screenshot are only a total of 4.72 GB on the drive. The files you need are shown in my screenshot above.

Thank you for answering. That's pretty disappointing that there is no option like that. I have had it in all vehicles in the past and this car has amazing LED lightning in my sight so I wanted to see it light up when coming to the car and leaving it 😃

Download GUIFORMAT and use that to format the USB drive

If they would think for more than one second they would make rev meter digital and gave user an option to choose between eco or rev display. The way that eco meter is now displayed in corolla it is useless, because it`s too small. Al the information is squeezed on 4 cm width with 10 cm black space on each side...

Detection takes less that a minute from the NAV screen. Do check you have observed the following from the PDF I linked to. Some drives come as exFAT and the formatting needs to be changed. NOTE: The USB stick needs to be FAT 32 formatted, with a capacity of 8 GB or greater. The USB stick memory should be empty. To check if this is the case, or to get more details, insert the USB stick into you PC / laptop and right‐click on the USB icon. Please note that the software should be copied to the ‘root’ file structure of the USB stick, and not saved to any other directories or folders.

Sorry to bump a thread to bring up a post from a few years ago. The NEWEST Clio now only has a 42 litre fuel tank! I think my 2001 Clio had a 50 litre tank, as does my current petrol Peugeot 208, which on a full tank can achieve towards 500 miles on long journeys of around 55-60mpg. When looking for a new car my top priority is fuel economy as well as good miles covered on one tank of fuel - which the Peugeot 208 ticks all the right boxes in that regard - but newer cars' fuel tanks are shrinking, meaning the miles-per-tank isn't increasing much (despite better economy) or in some cases are getting less! I believe the fuel tank shrinkage helps with lowering official fuel economy statistics. I've long been interested in a Yaris Hybrid as my next car, but I do wish the fuel tank was bigger. But as others have said it's now not much smaller than many other similar-sized petrol-only cars - or even some much bigger ones!

If you have the X-Touch that will have Mirrorlink. However, to use it your phone has to be Mirrorlink compatible, and not all are.

But probably aren't. Or don't have enough resources to implement what they want to. Software produced by a hardware manufacturer is nearly always lack-lustre and of questionable quality. Companies geared toward producing physical goods often look at software with disdain and it becomes an afterthought. There are a few rare exceptions. Apple is one of them but I think they only manage to make it work by forcing their users to live in a walled garden. I avoid Apple products as much as I can because I prefer freedom but as a software developer it bothers me that it seems to be one of the few ways to ensure good hardware and good software.

Thee wife’s Auris hybrid is 10 years old and about 70k miles and performance of hybrid battery seems ok. I would imagine after 10 years there is some loss, but if there is it is not really noticeable.

Yes, and left on until complete Full instructions can be printed off as can the security code. I recommend you do so, especially the code which you need to start the update. Just be aware, it can take several seconds for the usb stick to be recognised and the unit detect an update. Just be patient.

Not sure why you refer to 6.12L update as it’s not listed on the e-store page. As has been said, if you register on the site, enter your Touch id code and select the Maps tab you will see all available updates. You need to choose 6.15L and follow the instructions that follow for both downloading to the usb stick and for installing the update.

As Martin and others have said above, the updates are free for the first 3 years of ownership as long as you have fully registered you and your car on MyToyota. As to the cost, it's the weird way that the Toyota estore website works. It will appear that you are going to get charged right up to the point where you checkout your basket but at that point, the charge will show as £0.00 (as long as you are correctly registered and logged in)

The update is free for the first 3 years of ownership. You will need your unit's ID from the settings menu, best to take a picture as it's long and a mixture of letters and numbers. Register for My Toyota, as advised above, you'll need you VIN You may be asked to generate a validation code on the car unit, just follow the instructions. I found it easiest to download to a laptop, extract the files and then transfer it to a USB thumb drive. Your car must be running for the update and my last one took around 15 minutes. There is a downloadable PDF guide here, go to HELP https://www.toyota.co.uk/tme#/my-toyota/eStore/2d7de30d-4dec-479d-be62-6b7879725bbf

If you go to the ‘my.toyota’ site you will find everything there. https://www.toyota.co.uk/tme#/my-toyota/ Basically, you first need to register your unit (the code is in settings) then you download the update (free for 3 years) to a usb stick and update your unit. Again full instructions are given at the download page.

I think there are different types of overhead console, maybe dependant on model or market location - so anyone attempting this be careful which type you have. I have fitted LEDs on my 2019 Excel Premium, and the overhead unit came apart very differently. I just removed the edge / cover trim, leaving the lighting units and all the switches in place, unfortunately I did not take any photos, but I did find a different U Tube video to explain the process. The lenses then remove, giving access to the "bulbs" from below. Keep well Paul

Heh, each to their own. But the Corolla has both a tachometer and an eco meter. As it ships all you need to do to make the Corolla display the eco gauge is to press the left up or down arrows. That will display the eco gauge right in the centre of an analogue speedometer where you can read both simultaneously 😉

Fixed it (I think). Just to sum up: 1) Nearside caliper retracts when turned clockwise. I used adapter E in Konrad's pic above. 2) Found out that the pads were seized in due to debris/rust and this was caused all the issue. Had to hammer them out. Best to have some new shims as mine broke apart due to rust. 3) Konrad, I took some pics but forgot to check if the piston "holes" line up with the "tabs" on the back of the brake pads (Doh!). But I did retract the piston ALL the way in so it should (?) be in the right position. 4) Anyway, brake seems to work fine at the moment. Happy that I didn't have to buy a new caliper as this one looked beyond repair from the photos but I spent quite a bit of time cleaning it up and hope it will keep on working. Any questions, please let me know.