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  1. Hussain17

    Hussain17

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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/26/2020 in all areas

  1. The dealership have had a look at the pan roof and advised there is an issue and have asked Toyota for guidance on the best way to resolve it
    2 points
  2. yes and much more detailed, the carista device, is just a standard ELM based device just with a fancy app (what they charge a fortune to unlock and a big mark up
    1 point
  3. Auris it’s not that difficult and not many fasteners to undo, few bolts few of those and you are done. It’s much easier than it looks on the videos, I have done mine that summer and wasn’t bad at all, however I never had pets in, and I don’t drive with open windows, plus keep the car sparkling clean inside and change pollen filter every two-three months. If you keep you car same condition, there is nothing to worry much, you can look through the inlet vent and check how much of dirt is accumulated on the intake pipe and this will give you an idea how your fan thins are. Regards
    1 point
  4. Yesterday I cleaned this high voltage cooling fan air filter on my Gen4 Prius. Simple, took me 20 minutes, next time it will be 10 minutes.. Haedly any dirt anyway. Just wish the wife’s 2010 Auris hybrid would be as easy, sadly it’s a big job with lots of plastic fasteners to release, I nervous I would break them and then be stuck putting back together.
    1 point
  5. 2008 1.4D-4D still going strong!
    1 point
  6. Welcome to the forum Mick
    1 point
  7. The trick is to learn how to keep the gauge within the appropriate ranges. To stay in EV you've got to keep it in one of the first two areas. As soon as the indicator enters the third area the ICE will come on. And you should always keep it out of the fourth area (marked PWR on the digital gauge) because that means the battery is being used to boost the power which is a very inefficient thing to do. When I first got the Corolla I kept the economy gauge on screen but the eco gauge is far more useful for good economy. I've never had a problem reading it as it's right in the middle of the dash, underneath the speed.
    1 point
  8. Thanks for the feedback Mark. Glad you had a good trip, and your positive comments. I found my EV time rose as time went on. My T was not connected for me until Sept 2019, soI have a full year now, and EV time for the year is 43% cumulatively, but for the last month alone it is 53%. This will be partly down to my driving style adapting to Hybrid driving, and the systems "bedding in". I have little city driving, mainly open rural roads and some motorway, so I am happy with that. I expect you will find the same, so enjoy your new hybrid experience.
    1 point
  9. I recently removed the seat to inspect the fan (Auris gen2 phase1). I couldn't work out how to manoeuvre the trims to get access without lifting the seat base. After finally deciding to lift the seat, I still couldn't see how I could have done this any other way. This link explains a bit more about the fan, and someone has put some pictures of seat removal at the end of it. It's the last page of the thread that is the most relevant.
    1 point
  10. Hello Mike - welcome to Toyota Owners Club.
    1 point
  11. Thought it might be. Anyway to tell which one? I reset it and drove around this afternoon and it’s not come back yet so can’t see it being the catalytic converter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  12. Tethering by bluetooth was the culprit for me, too. Many thanks....
    1 point
  13. Yes. It is nothing to do with having a "mobile hotspot" enabled. Your phone needs to be tethering via the bluetooth link (see screenshot)
    1 point
  14. Hi all, I have a 2010 Auris 1.33 VVTi (I believe the engine is a 1NR-FE) and my front driveshaft seal has a leak so I plan on replacing it soonish when I do a full service. I can't seem to find a workshop manual for these anywhere so could do with someone to just confirm the torque specs for me and if I need to replace the nuts aswell. If anyone knows of any software manuals available then that would also be of some help, cheers. Also I know the engine oil sump plug requires a new seal every time, is that also the case for the gearbox fill and drain? Track rod end - 40Nm (possibly new nut?) Front hub - 216Nm (new nut required) Oil Filter - 40Nm (that seems quite high for an oil filter to me) Sump drain - 30Nm
    1 point
  15. Just a thought could it be a noisy wheel bearing? The one I had a few months back started off being noisy only above 50MPH. Fitting quieter tyres has quite an effect for reducing the overall noise. I've got some house carpet underlay tucked away ready to be used on the boot and rear seat/footwell area whenever I find the time. Once the carpet is up there will be a chance to fit a switch to activate the interior light when the front passenger door is opened. Luxury !
    1 point
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