Leaderboard

Tim is right. I experienced this first hand when a friend was jumpstarting his car. Luckily the battery was up front and bonnet fully open. The top of the battery went skywards and landed quite a few meters away from us after about 5-10 seconds. Goodness knows how high up in the air it went. We were both nearly deaf and my friend had to go to hospital to get battery acid rinsed off his face and burns dressed. To avoid similar 'experiments', on a car with negative earth: ALWAYS connect plus lead to battery first ALWAYS connect negative to chassis, well away from the battery Reverse to disconnect (first earth then positive)

Sound advice from Ireland, computer plays up, switch off, wait min 20 seconds, switch on, should be fine. Occasionally our Sky box freezes, so I do what written above.

When our aygo with mmt did that a few years it got progressively worse and finally the mmt actuator got stuck a couple of times on the road and we had to change the actuator under guarantee. Please take it to the dealer if you are under guarantee as Frosty said. The second actuator is still working though.

If it has climate it's possibly the sunload sensor

Just pull it up from the internal fuse box up the A pillar and across the roof tucking it in to the headlining

Thanks for that, I tried using the left one but it don't show it on mine. I've tried it with lights off and lights on. Still no option to brighten the dash lights once the main lights are switched on.

Thanks for that Dave,will have a go if it ever stops raining!

No, still used on modern efi engines, by doing so the engine control module 'shuts off' fuel delivery into the chambers to prevent more 'flooding' thereby aiding the engine to a spluttering start, once that stage is reached the accelerator pedal can be eased off a little until the engine runs smoothly once again.

Never take anything for granted, you would "hope" it was part synthetic, nothing is guaranteed in this life. Why not go for a branded "fully synthetic" version? It is far better, but slightly more expensive

If you are going to do that, you have to isolate the ignition system, one spark from a lead to earth and it'll go up like a bomb. I've seen it happen, it's not funny.

Modern oils are used for a variety of reasons, they are more stable than "Standard" mineral based cheapo oils, they lower emissions, are more fuel efficient, they also allow for less oil to be used in the engine, reducing weight, less upfront purchase costs, less oil to dispose of in the environment etc. So I would always recommend you pay the least you can for better quality oils, a 5W 30 mineral oil will work well, but not as well as a synthetic based oil with a lower viscosity

Still with dealership. Apparently now going to be raised with Toyota directly as investigations found a difference with AC to how they believe it should be performing. Because it is a new car they don't touch it until someone at Toyota is sent out to see it. To be honest id rather they sort it first time now whilst im very limited with travel etc.

Thanks for that, sounds a good solution. 🙂

The latest hybrids (Corolla, C-HR, Prius, Rav4) and the Aygo use 0W-16, and the new Yaris hybrid uses 0W-8

Inside or outside ? A hair drier or a stripe removal wheel Edit. Doh, do you the ICE badge/emblem ? Hair drier and dental floss/fishing line, - solvent or sticky stuff remover + elbow grease or a stripe removal wheel to remove the glue

Got the car back today, with nav update and Android Auto loaded as well. When I asked how they worked around the non-loading issue, they were advised from Toyota Ireland to do what you would do with a computer that refuses to play ball - unplug it, and plug it back in again. And that did the trick.

According to the owners manual, if the N is flashing and the warning buzzer beeping, move the gear lever to N and then to E, M or R, as appropriate. As the car is still under warranty, and this seems to be occuring frequently, get it booked into a Toyota dealer for investigation.

Your locksmith is taking the proverbial. If you read the manual (I know, the shame!), it tells you how to code in an additional key from memory, I remember having to do it on the XTR before I rescued it. I nicked the transponder/remote out of an old RAV key from ebay, followed the pairing process, had a new blade cut using a photo of the key by an online key cutting place (Timpsons is about £12 if you are in a hurry) and away you go. Total bill was just over £20 from memory. To do this you need a working master key, not the valet key. In extreme cases ‘other’ options exist.