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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/18/2021 in all areas

  1. With 16" nordic friction tyres I'm getting between 4,4 and 6 l/100km (64mpg - 47mpg) depending on temperature, distance, type of road etc. Getting much worse MPG going from work, where I park outside, compared to starting from home, where I keep my car in a heated garage. Smaller tyres will affect MPG as well. Still haven't driven my Auris with summer tyres, but I asume MPG will go down since my summer tyres are 17" as opposed to my current 16" winter tyres. Lots of variables. But if conditions are right you can easily drive this car above 70 MPG IMHO Cheers
    2 points
  2. Yippee, all fixed now. Apparently the factory had to get involved and send the Dealer a new software update with specific instructions on how to load, sorry they woulndt share what update etc
    2 points
  3. That's a great idea, thank you. I am comparing it against my old Corolla and my wife's Mokka so thinking about it, it may just be the way Aygo's are. I think I'll wait for the used car garages to fully open and test drive the same aged vehicle. Thank you
    2 points
  4. Don't take it literally. It was just an extreme example (an edge case) to better and stronger describe what my point was. Of course I am not at the age or the mindset to drive like this. Ok, let's try to use more realistic scenario: Long uphill where battery is used a lot to help the ICE and on the top there are only 3 bars left. And there you approach a tractor/slow lorry/something too slow for the speed limit. Now imagine the same, but instead of uphill, it was long descend, battery is fully/almost fully topped and at the bottom you approach the slow vehicle. Acceleration during the takeover in the first case should be slower than in the second...
    2 points
  5. The other day my wife had the key in her bag just outside the passenger door, I was in the drivers seat and it wouldn't allow me to start the car.
    1 point
  6. The answer is no, if your wife has the key and is outside the car than the start button would not operate. There are key proximity sensors in both front doors, tailgate and centre console which triangulate the keys position and it must be within the cabin for the start switch to work
    1 point
  7. Did mine a couple of years ago, 80k miles.Rear is a easy to replace as it's a complete unit, bolt off, bolt on, replacing the fronts would require a press plus longer to do. Source mine from a bearing specialist in Sheffield, think it was about £100. As far as Toyota build quality, unfortunatly it can't be responsable for every outide sourced part, when generally they don't fail as yours has, luck of the draw.
    1 point
  8. I rather doubt that the engine will start if the fob is outside at the back of the car but it will most certainly stop - with load beeping - as soon as the key fob is out of range! (I tried getting out of the car, leaving the engine 'running', to post a letter with the key in my pocket - silly me ...)
    1 point
  9. Whilst I can't say I have noticed the issue on power drop myself, something I have always been able to "feel" is when travelling at a constant speed, I know when the ICE starts to charge the battery, without looking at the instruments. The speed does not drop but the car feels more "laboured" . And when the ICE is no longer charging, you can feel the car being "released". I notice it when driving at 50 mph, the limit on many local roads around here.
    1 point
  10. As above poster stated assuming Mrs still had keyless fob on her person (as you tend to do with keyless) the car would only be of limited use once the engine was stopped by said thief.
    1 point
  11. There are multiple antennas around the car, used for unlocking, however to unlock the car, or the trunk, you need to start very close to it. You can check this at night, when you come close to the car, the lamps will turn on, signalling that you are in range. From what i remember, the 1st gen had like 4 or more antennas, even though it only allowed you to be able to unlock it when standing just next to the drivers door (keeyless). However, to start the car, you need to have the key very close to the star button. For example, if i take the key and put it in my pocket, which is further away from the start button, the car will not find it to be in range, and it wont allow me to start. If you want to check the range, once you start the car, you can remove the key from the vehicle, and it will say no key detected or something like that. The scenario you are describing is unlikely, as you need to be close to the button to start the car. But, as mentioned above, once the car starts, you can drive it just fine without the key, so be aware of that.
    1 point
  12. I used to have a auris hybrid and yes once it was started you could take the key put it in the house and drive the car no problem so in answer to your question more than likely it would be possible for someone to jump in the vehicle and drive it away. I haven’t tried it with the corolla but I bet it’s the same.
    1 point
  13. I don't have a definitive answer, but, on the Auris, a selection can be made (in Techstream, don't think it can be done through the dash on that car) as to where the key must be in order to operate the ignition successfully. The two areas offered are: any where inside the car, or, just the front seat area. I can't remember what the default is. Standing at the rear of the car loading the boot is too close to call as to if you are inside the car or not. On the Auris, I think the actual detection module is at the rear of the rearmost quarter light, not that far from the hatch door. I came across it when I had the interior trim off in that area. On the Carista phone app, they list some of the customizations that are available. For the last model of Rav they listed this:- Which looks promising. They don't list it for your model, but that's probably an oversight. HTH
    1 point
  14. Not sure on that. I have a Corolla without keyless entry but have adjusted setting on infotainment so the fob needs to be close to start/stop button before it will start. Maybe an option
    1 point
  15. Our Yaris rear wheel bearing driver side went at only 42k miles although on an 04 car. I was stunned at the OEM part cost of £357 inc VAT but managed to buy a pattern spare inc ABS for about £35, although I had to send a couple back before getting one with no play. I came across the valve stem thing a few years ago on my Avensis. MOT man said both rear valve stems were perished (tyres only 2 years old) and needed replacing so had them done for £30 the pair. The next year test they said exactly the same thing when I pointed out they had replaced them the previous year-they said they must be faulty and would replace they free of charge but they actually just cleaned them up. Sound like a common way of winkling extra money out of customers, I stopped using that garage!
    1 point
  16. Slightly sideways comment, I have a long steady hill where the throttle can be kept steady and if starting with a fairly full battery, some ev assists the engine which holds a steady medium revs. When the battery runs low, there's no difference in speed or any throttle input but the ice revs considerably higher suddenly. Now the ice is supplying most power to move plus recharge the battery. Really, if you're trying to accelerate hard while battery is low, the engine revs much harder to make up the power. I'm always careful about overtaking, not because of a lack of power but because of the delay while the power kicks in. It's a slipping clutch type of feel but it's never a problem as long as you plan the overtake sensibly
    1 point
  17. Michael, you must report the existence of potholes to your local Authority via its website. It will then become liable for damage caused if it fails to act upon your notifications.
    1 point
  18. It would be interesting to know how toyota test a battery. Where I work we use a hand held tester, if it passes we always recommend to the customer that we recharge and carry out a further test on our grx-3000 discharge tester or the alpha-bat pro tester. While we are carrying out the test over a couple of days we would loan the customer a battery to keep him on the road. We have had occasions where the hand held has passed a battery but a proper discharge test has failed the battery.
    1 point
  19. For me it's a yes. I purchased a 2015 Auris hybrid estate with 26,000miles and it came with 12 months approved used warranty but bought the extra 2 years warranty on top as well as a service plan. £720. The AC packed in 6 months after buying. Dealer explained "if stone damage not covered" Found Condenser leaking on bottom right corner. Refused on phone, then dealer sent photos and thankfully Toyota 12 months used warranty paid for a new condenser and fitting and regas. Sadly had to wait for 3 months to get a Condenser as on back order. I have got my £500 covered there in the one repair. James👍
    1 point
  20. Isn't the answer in Devon Aygo's last post - the one prior to yours.
    1 point
  21. I think it is a case of what different users need from their cars. Some want to see how much economy they can eak from their systems and perfect their Hybrid driving styles. Others have Hybrids for the lower business tax, but need to get to a customer or meeting, so overtaking is a must. On a short journey, the saving in time by over taking may be minimal, but on longer journeys and on some long A and B roads, trundling at 40 mph or less behind a lorry on a 60 mph limit can make quite a difference. When I had my under powered 1.6 Cavalier, it was very difficult to over take some days, not others. Setting off to Cambridge at the same time, my arrival varied by 15 minutes many times, depending on what tractors or Tesco Lorries I managed to over take or not! Safely of course. At the end of the day, however you need to drive your Hybrid, you will make a saving against a normal petrol ICE, and that is largely what owners buy them for, rather than a standard ICE.
    1 point
  22. Hi, theoretically yes there is a difference, but in real world it’s not that bad to cause dangerous situation and once you floor it the car will pull to its best ability, but you need to press harder to the floor and ice needs to be at operating temperature. Especially you have 2.0 should not be a problem at all. I have older 1.8 gen 3 hybrid with 136bhp and never complain about power, a lots of motorway driving. Electric cars, bikes, scooters also suffer a bit but not that much, because they have only battery as power source and we have petrol engine too, which actually is the main source of power, it’s not like 50/50 but 60/40 ice/electric average for example only figures. You can do some experiments though, take the car to a quiet road do some hard acceleration with full battery and then with drained battery and you will see the difference, I reckon 1 second difference. 👍
    1 point
  23. I have hard wired a CETEK connector to the Battery under the boot floor, the connector is accessible now in the boot, so now just have to plug in the CETEK when needed. I have been using this since March without problems. Paul
    1 point
  24. Read the fault codes. I recommend Toyota Techstream.
    1 point
  25. Both the 1.8 and 2.0 have more than enough power for a sensible driver in normal conditions.
    1 point
  26. So car finally went in yesterday to investigate hands free issue, but sadly although they confirmed there is an issue they couldnt find cause and have asked me to bring the car back next week and leave it with them for 2 days minimum. Oh well, at least I got to try a new Yaris Hybrid for the day and I was pleasantly surprised, what a great little car and markedly quicker around town than the Corolla, that 3 cylinder engine mated with the hybrid system is a corker. I asked for a go in this, but unfortunately its already sold:☹️
    1 point
  27. I have the design model with Pearl red paint job and moon roof car drives like a larger car also has radar so car can drive it’s self also with cruise control so no hands no feet and slows down and stops etc etc
    1 point
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