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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/21/2021 in all areas

  1. We had two cars with black paint - a metallic Nissan and a pearlescent Honda. Both showed every mark, nick and scratch, no matter how slight, and we said we would never have another black car.
    3 points
  2. When I see these posts on flat 12V batteries, I cannot help but think how useful it would been had Toyota provided a multimedia 12V battery status display. And even better, if that info was available via the My T app.
    3 points
  3. I bought a 1 year old TS in black, and due to bad weather have only been able to wash it and inspect it properly for the first time this week, and I am absolutely amazed at the number of small scratches and stone chips for a 4K mileage car. The bonnet alone has in excess of 100 tiny stone chips and every panel has small scratches - not visible from a distance but up close they’re everywhere. I presume the previous Toyota Corporate owner used to throw gravel at it each morning as a form of stress relief. Anyway, I carefully washed it this week with a clean sponge and managed to add 5 or 6 more scratches, down to the undercoat and ‘feelable’ with a thumb nail. I swear I didn’t wash it roughly or with a dirty sponge. I don’t want to sound like a ‘back in my day’ sort of person, but I am sure car paintwork didn’t used to be this delicate. I traded in a Peugeot that Id owned from new for 7 years to buy this and the paint / lacquer just felt thicker and smoother and it didn’t have any similar scratches. Anyone else noticed this?
    2 points
  4. With a saloon I'll always have a get out on those IKEA tips lol
    2 points
  5. Thanks for the feedback and yes agree the Corolla TS is very practical. Love the new RAV4 hybrid but it's just that bit too expensive for me at the moment. Maybe I'm just old but I do like the saloon shape of cars.
    2 points
  6. Hi, these are very different cars in all aspects. Camry is a large car and heavier with bigger drive train and engine will definitely be the more comfortable one, on the other side the Corolla Trek is more modern, much more practical because its higher of the road, has more useful space, seats down plus its estate, it all depends your needs. I will prefer to get the Corolla. Cars like Camry are from last century, even in US Camry has left the league of most selling cars to the RAV4 for that reason. If you do mostly motorway journeys for yourself and people Camry wins, for every day needs , like family car , trips to IKEA etc , holidays Corolla Trek wins IMO. 👍 Both of these are my favourite. , together with RAV4 hybrid in fwd.
    2 points
  7. In addition to all the above, if I remember correctly, the 2 litre Corolla has a petrol particulate filter (PPF), not least because of its part-time direct injection fuel system produces more particulates than a port injection system does. I would imagine this takes some heat out of the exhaust gas, so perhaps it is condensing more in the exhaust system than earlier engines would on account of this? The rotting of exhaust systems from the inside is less of an issue since leaded fuel was phased out (when catalytic converters were coming in), the leaded fuel carried an acid-scavenger that was necessary to prevent excessive lead deposits - this could rot the exhaust insides on shorter journeys. Also, there is a widespread adoption of stainless steel, albeit of the cheapest, lowest grade (409 grade?) in exhaust manufacture of more recent times. It doesn't seem to have stopped the rusting out of welded joints and brackets though. And it is only rust-resistant, not rust-proof!
    2 points
  8. This will be a long post I'm having fuel consumption issueI I'm 99% sure its because of the DPF. I used to get over 400 miles to a tank. Now i'm struggling to get 340/50 miles now.. I shouln't be getting 33/34 mpg on this car. I fitted a new 5th injector the other day in the hopes the original one was possibly leaking, causing the increased consumption and that it may not be able to get the DPF hot enough. I thought this because the lambda sensor reads a dip whilst driving along with a reduction on the MPG readout from 44mpg to 29 ish during this period. Tell tale of a DPF regen. When I manually carry out a DPF regen it never seemed to get hot enough as exhaust only stays around 500/550 Celsius. Now, looking at the image below. Looking at the second from the top graph you can see a jump towards the end. That's the ECU carrying out a DPF Regen to saying completed. Now straight after that, looking at the orange line in the middle. That's the lambda sensor. It's used for feedback during regeneration. As you can see, towards the end AFTER the ECU has completed the regeneration, it starts carrying out, another regeneration, or something..? See how the lambda sensor reading dips every so often. That's a tell tale sign the DPF is regenerating. Also note how the exhaust temperature stays really high. Looking at the second image is after I fitted the new 5th Injector. (genuine Denso etc). Before fitting the new injector the exhaust temperature wouldn't as high as it does now with the new one. You can see how it peaks at 671 degrees Celsius during regeneration, which is more than hot enough to burn off the soot, which burns at around 600 degrees. When I carried out a manual regeneration it would never get this hot. With the new injector it does now. So that's good! The Fuel Addition feedback value is also lower which is also better according to Toyotas documents (1.32 vs 1.45). I can't understand what the car is doing. I can easily achieve 38-41mpg in TOWN! where on the motorway, cruise set the 70mph I get 34/35mpg. Every-time I drive the car, the DPF starts doing a mild regeneration of sorts. Looking at the last image you can see a dip in the Lambda sensor every so often, and look how high the exhaust temperature is.. It shouldn't be this high whilst cruising and NOT carrying out a Regeneration.. Look on the left hand side for example.. The DPF soot and sulphur regen are BOTH on standby... The pressure sensor reads it as unblocked. On another data value, "DPF NO ACTIVATE" IS active. Meaning its not allowing it to regenerate yet it keeps squirting fuel into the exhaust to burn... something?! I'm going to try another ECU and see where that gets me.
    1 point
  9. I hope my fellow forum members will allow me a little understanding and forebearance with this topic.Is it truly a guide or an opinion,am I flying the flag or banging the drum a bit? I don't think so,I have a great appreciation for these engines,for their clever design,the vvt-i in so many ways is far superior to the V-tech although I do wish it gave you the same kick in the pants when you hit 6000 but that's not what it's about nor is it trying to be.Again I hope this post/guide/opinion/ is thought reasonable enough to qualify as I truly do wish to at the very least inform those who may be contemplating that most maligned motor,the 2001-2005 1.8 vvt-i. The most infamous 1ZZ-FE. It's hardly a revelation that the later T22s,the vvt-i's in the late Y-reg to 03 reg range are often considered more of a risky second hand buy than the earlier pre mid-model facelift T22s when it comes to buying the 1.6 and 1.8 petrol engined versions.The 2.0 vvt-i was a different family of engine so wasn't cursed with the ZZ genes which plagued early 1ZZs,2ZZs and 3ZZs.Also the diesels completely sidestep this issue too so unless you're buying a 1.6 or 1.8 vvt-i then by all means read on as it may be interesting but any issues brought up here really don't effect you.Feel completely free to be quietly smug 🙂 That weakness,the infamous deadly curse to all the offspring in the ZZ family,pre 2005 is a prodigious thirst for the amber nectar. i.e 5W 30 fully synthetic motor oil.I've read posts by owners of Corollas,stateside funnily enough of burning through a quart of oil in 50-100 miles.A quart being quarter of a gallon although their puny gallons aren't quite a robust as ours so not quite the full 2 pints I imagine.Nonetheless what,say a litre or litre and half of oil in 100 miles.That is firmly in old oily CVH XR2/XR3 territory.Yes,exactly that bad !! The thing is whether you think exaggeration or suddenly start to feel a lot less keen on that 52 plate Vermont you had in mind the fact Toyota dealers were replacing short blocks on a number of customers cars strongly suggests there was a definite problem here,dealerships do not replace engines or suffer the man hours costs lightly so clearly there was and is fire behind all that blue oily smoke.That I don't think anyone would dispute. Ok,this is Toyota were talking about not Audi or Mercedes (am joking,am just not a fan of AutoUnions but I have owned one in the past,an Audi 80 Sport no less so...).How did Toyota come up with a seemingly badly envisioned lame duck like the ZZ and it's brood.Well,in actual fact it's quite a clever and innovative engine that had some weaknesses designed in,pretty glaringly obvious one with hindsight but I'm sure there's an apt expression concerning hindsight.Maybe we should include some rose tinted glasses for the designers too. Some of the less well thought out areas we can highlight all pretty much centre around the lubrication system.For one,a modern 1800 16 valve engine with only 3.6 litres of oil including the filter seems like asking for trouble but then if you add the variable valve timing/cam phaser system which maybe be triggered and controlled expertly by the ECU,it's plain old oil pressure that moves the moving parts.It does seem like a lot to ask of not exactly a lot of oil.I mean a typical 1.8 or 2.0 twin cam at the time would normally have 4.5 say.I'm thinking Vauxhall and Ford here as those are both makes I've a long history with.In a typical Zetec,Ecotec or Redtop (ah,the Redtop) there's no tricky valve timing nonsense to trouble the oil system with. Again,Toyota aren't stupid,not by a long shot and much of the thinking behind the reduced oil capacity was to avoid a bath of oil laying in the sump as the engine runs.If the big ends are paddling in an oil bath,even just dipping their toes then that's extra drag which absorbs heat,causes friction and even churns up a frothy mist of oil in the crankcase.It's takes some of that precious power churning up the engine oil in the sump,the oil mist can increase crankcase pressure and air bubbles in your lube isn't as cool as it sounds.There are good reasons to try to lessen the effect so less actual oil means you will have a lot less of the oil that's just been around the block,so to speak collecting in the sump.It passes go and straight back up the oil pick up for another lap.Of course,having some of that oil in your sump may cause windage but iut also allows the oil that precious moment to cool down some.The ZZs oil isn't getting that adventageous cooling effect so is running hotter. Hotter oil will break down quicker but if you only use top quality fully synthetic oil and rigourously change it at the specified time or mileage then what could go wrong.Ok,how about lower tension piston rings that aren't forced against the cylinder wall to the same degree as usual.Reduced friction,reduces heat,drag and therefore robs less power and increases efficiency.This engine was expected to return good fuel figures and mine has always been around 39-43 mpg combined.I drive with very little consideration of mpg unless my predicted range is lower than the miles to the next petrol station.That's in town,back roads,country lanes,dual carriageways daily,to me that's pretty good for a car approaching 19 and over 200,000 miles on the clock. I digress,rings.If the rings aren't as hard against the cylinder wall they're not creating as much friction or heat but they're not sealing the cylinder as effectively either which afterall is important.While we're on the subject of rings,the cooling holes under the oil control ring are incredibly small compared to the typical piston in similar engines plus they are only 4 of them. Maybe initially not a great concern but in an engine running a little hotter,possibly experiencing more combustion gases being blown by the lower tension piston rings,the oil overworked,a little hotter than it need be and if not changed religiously carrying some contaminants then being forced through narrow holes in the very hot piston lands tarnishing and deposits can build up remarkably quickly blocking those precious holes also robbing the pistons of the scant cooling they require.Take a look at the size of the oil filter,it's so dinky it's cute lol. The 7A-FE engine used in the initial run of T22s had an oil cooler without any of the potential inbuilt oil woes,why didn't the 1ZZ ? Have no idea but it would surely help unless the extra piping and diversion of so low a volume of oil would further reduce oil pressure,it makes sense in some way.Well,much like war where the battle plan is foolproof until the first shot is fired these engines where inspired until people started to buy cars with them and didn't treat them quite as dillegently as they so obviously require.A few missed oil changes,cheap oil,leave out changing the filter this time and..... So,in a world where fossil fuels are clearly a finite resource the last thing anyone needs in to buy a cheap 2nd hand motor that requires almost as much oil as petrol.Why would anyone want to buy one of these just to burn oil and money out the tailpipe.Well,in my experience even a half decently cared for 1ZZ-FE with 160,000 miles won't necessarily be an oil burner.Itcould have had it's block replaced under warranty.All the problems were ironed out by 2005 or 2006 so a T25 with a 1ZZ or 3ZZ can be a truly viable proposition but so can a T22 if you take a little time to check the thing out.Even one on it's original engine can have a solid motor that sips the oil like a teetotller,not all are rampant oilaholics.A lot of the T22s still on the road and on the market have been looked after and cared for.Probably had all their required oil changes,services and used the right oil of good quality.If that's the case it's a winner and if the oil changes are maintained it may never turn to the dark side. I own a 2002 Vermont with the dread 1ZZ-FE.I've had it for over 6 years now and have done 70,00+ miles in it and I can categorically say it goes through oil like I go through tea and water.Worse,even especially if my right foot starts getting a little heavy.I do 350-450 miles a week typically and can use anything from a litre to several over a month.It seems excessive to me and in any other engine I'd be greatly concerned but not with this one.It doesn't use oil or burn oil but has an annoyingly impossible to get to oil leak that although it isn't messy in terms of driveway or even for that matter engine bay none the less it's an issue which I suspect troubles and has troubled a lot more ZZs than people realise.When at first I got the car I only then began to read about the oil dangers I could expect to face so I kept a troubled eye on my oil use,which after running /ford motors for years I was already well schooled in but it felt like it was an inevitable future.Not if but when and when did come to pass. Yet it baffled me becasue once it began it seemed to use a fair bit at times so why were there no cat issues,oily spark plugs,fault codes or cloulds of blue smoke.If it wasn't using it was losing yet never was there a tiny oil stain on the tarmac or oily gunk in every corner of the engine bay. It took replacing a bottom radiator hose or more to the point jacking up the front,removing the driverside wheel and wheelarch liner to inspect the bottom hose for me to see the fresh oil around the power steering pump area.In fact,.my very first M.O.T owning it came back with a leaking power steering hose advisory except it wasn't wet with power steering fluid but reasonably clean full synthetic oil. Have you done an oil change with brand new,good quality 5W 30 fully synthetic.You top up,let it settle and check the dipstick and are surprised to see no oil on it.except there is.It's fresh,the colour of water,as this and viscous as water being fully synthetic so careful oil level checking is required. With a leak around the area of the timing chain cover and chain tensioner the oil doesn't leak exactly but is forced out as the engine is running,the faster the engine is running the greater the volume of oil is evacuated but seeing as it is being constantly replenished with fresh oil almost weekly it rarely turns black or gets thick and gloopy so is incredibly hard to actually see any sign of,with no chance looking from above.You would have to look from underneath,in the right area and either be lucky or suspect it already.Otherwis the chance of confirming that's what's happening are very low. And why would you even look,there is a massive reputation that blights this poor engines name so when you're going through oil faster than normal you don't require an answer because it's already there,these engines burn oil like nobody's business,dealers changed blocks under warranty.It's not a conspiracy theory it's fact and depending on the car and it's history a solid gold one at that but don't be so quick to play the oil burning card.As I said,I personally though cannot in anyway proove it but I do suspect a lot of them were leaking rather than burning.The bad name though earned to a degree although it's just like dogs,there's no bad dogs just bad,awful dog owners well there's is and has been terrible Avensis owners,it's not the fault of the Avensis. The T22 in particular is a fine car that's still on the road aplenty despite being replaced almost 18 years ago.Look on ebay,autocar or your local paper there's no shortage of good,well looked after T22s for sale with some still commanding good money for a car that old.I mean,when was the last time you saw a T22 in the scrapyard. How many Hondas,Audis,Mondeos and Passats or Golfs were there,a fair few I bet. A 1.8 vvt-i is a great 2nd hand car if it's in good shape,I'm sure the 1.6 vvt-i would be too but sounds a little underpowered for my tastes but for others it would be ideal. And again in it's own right the 1ZZ-FE is a really good engine,especially in it's 143bhp Celica version.The variable valve is completely different to a V-tech which is really about power,the vvt-i is about producing good levels of torque low down,power towards the upper end of the rev range plus good economy at all times,which it does.I find it easier to think of as having variable valve overlap rather than variable timing./cam advance but it's essentially the same thing,a bit like Zebras are the white with black stripes or are black striped over white...same thing !! When they work,they're smooth,quiet,torquey low down,propell the Avensis along nicely,relaible as it gets whether consuming masses of oil or not,that's the weirdest thing they may get through oil one way or another but they still start every morning and pass emissions tests every year. Now,that really is a clever trick it beats even pea and ham from a chicken
    1 point
  10. Hi just about to collect new supra pro next week .... excited. Look I know it’s Frankenstein BMW but looks great and had amazing test drive - anyone any advice ?
    1 point
  11. The trick to removing the rear hub is to slghtly loosen the 4 hub securing bolts and then with a socket on the bolt head use a short socket extension to hammer on with a lump hammer which will loosen the hub ok. Some of the hubs have the bolt head to the outside and some to the inside but the procedure is the same. Perhaps a french/japanese manufacturing difference?
    1 point
  12. Thanks, that's interesting. I'm in no rush to change but there's a really good deal on a nearly new GR Sport that I'm considering. Worst case if it does scrape I could drive front ways up the drive and reverse out but that's not ideal.
    1 point
  13. Watch out for the police vans, the latest police radar trap and cameras are accurate to 1km, it can practically see if you have spinach between your front teeth the camera is that good, notwithstanding it can also see what may be in your hand!
    1 point
  14. A dab of blue Loctite and 90Nm (66 ft lb), It's the same spec for drum and disc rears 2011-2018 (TMMF built)
    1 point
  15. Oh, and I forgot to add, don’t waste your time with Chipex paint repair kits. I bought one thinking I could easily correct many of the larger marks, but despite multiple attempts and carefully following the instructions to the letter (and as an engineer with a delicate hand, I feel I understand how to use the Chipex system artistically), 9 out of 10 repairs end up as they began, without any improvement.
    1 point
  16. A just had 5 mins to look it all up this is from a later car but the same series of gearbox EA62 destruct.pdf hope that is of some use,
    1 point
  17. Company supplied lease car mate, i dont spend anything
    1 point
  18. ah its not the c50/53 box It's the EA61 the shaft and lever is one piece eg. https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/toyota/auris-corolla-42429/ade157-56080/ade157l-dhfnxw-919222/gear-shift-fork-lever-shaft-mtm-17853328
    1 point
  19. With this mileage you have nothing to worry about your car and batteries, just regular weekly checks under the bonnet, oil, fluids and tyre pressures etc and more often pollen filter, don’t wait for the dealer to change at every service as they might not, just change it yourself every 10k miles, trust me it’s worth it, it’s cheap and the difference in the air we breathe inside the car is huge. 👍
    1 point
  20. Im doing nearly 500 miles per week at present, probably gonna jump to 700 in a few weeks as I start a new post over in Wiltshire, but if all goes well may move nearer next year and then it could drop significantly
    1 point
  21. Try measuring for 1-2 minutes after you switched off the car, done on mine and voltage when from 12.95V down to 12.61V and stayed there, when I did measure before starting the car was 12.27V car was parked for 3 days. Your new models with infotainment screens and Toyota connected services might cause trouble adding that small capacity 12V battery and here we go. Having voltage meter on dashboard like older cars would be great . 👍🚘
    1 point
  22. Hi Nigel Are you going for the 2.0 or 3.0 litre engine? I'm sure either will be great. I remember seeing the original supra back in the early 1990's, it was a real head turner. Good luck with your new car
    1 point
  23. Beautiful. Love that look. Are these really a straight forward swap? No modifications required at all? Wow.
    1 point
  24. Hi Jimi, You've come a very long way in a short time......Cracking job and your Aygo looks superb! Well done, Matey.....All the best.
    1 point
  25. Whilst I can't say I have noticed the issue on power drop myself, something I have always been able to "feel" is when travelling at a constant speed, I know when the ICE starts to charge the battery, without looking at the instruments. The speed does not drop but the car feels more "laboured" . And when the ICE is no longer charging, you can feel the car being "released". I notice it when driving at 50 mph, the limit on many local roads around here.
    1 point
  26. Decided to measure my 12v battery today. Car haven’t been used for two day. On the first attempt after I unlocked the car and removed all my stuff from the boot to access the battery I got stable 12.27V , then I started the car and kept in ready mode for 40 min I measured during that time showed charging at 14.74V then after I switched off the car quickly measured again showed 12.95V and voltage starts dropping, went down to 12.61V stable after around 2min. I believe I have the oem battery, at least look like it and I never changed during my ownership of over 5 years. That’s some numbers for reference if anyone measure theirs.
    1 point
  27. Another update! Reconnected the injector and as you can probably guess my MPG plummeted to 35/36 instead of the 45 it was before. As I was curious I decided to clear the degradation of the DPF to see if that had an effect but it did not. Just does what it usually does. Looking at the air fuel ratio sensor you can see how erratic it is in the middle, compared to the relative smooth line of the previous update. This is when i'm pinned at 70mph, and as you can see it's constantly injecting fuel. Also note how hot the exhaust temperature is. Near enough at a constant 550 Celsius! Was an average of 350 without the injector plugged in. The ECU is also allowing a post injection to heat the exhaust further. I imagine this is only done in town and at varrying speeds where this is used in conjunction with the 5th injector to heat it up. Now I know its not stuck open as it's a brand new one and the ECU is giving me the same behaviour as the original one, and Toyota documents claim exhaust temperature will not go over 700-750 unless it's stuck open and that it wont go over 800 degrees at idle if it's stuck open. I also know the exhaust pipes going to the Differential Pressure Sensor aren't blocked. Get slight pulses from them and the sensor reads well. I blew compressed air down them just to make sure, though i'm not entirely sure its within specification so I think that will be my next step. I have a day off on Friday so I think i'll jack the car up and inspect the DPF to make sure there's nothing lose or one of the exhaust pipes going to the sensor has a pinhole leak, leading the sensor to thinking it's blocked. Even so, the ECU is still saying NO BLOCK as well as regeneration on standby rather than ready/ operate.
    1 point
  28. Thanks for the update, and excellent troubleshooting!
    1 point
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