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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/04/2021 in all areas

  1. 1 point
  2. The small battery (that is now flat) is definitely 12 volts. You definitely need a jump start from a 12 volt battery or booster pack. The Toyota built-in jump start point is inside the fuse box that is under the bonnet - it is on the passenger side. If you unclip the lid (clip is on the front leading edge), then you can remove the lid completely. You can then see a red rectangular plastic clip, about 2.5 cm wide, towards the back of the fuse box. It hinges at one end and has a small clip at the other end that you can operate with a finger nail, and then pivot it up. (There is a map of the fuse box underneath the fuse box lid, btw.) This reveals a vertical metal blade. This is your positive (red lead!) attachment point from your positive terminal of your other battery. The black lead, from the negative (-) terminal of your other battery, can be connected to (clamped around) one of the suspension mount nuts that is just beyond the the fuse box, a bit nearer the windscreen. Good practice is to put the earth (black) lead on last and take it off first when done, but this doesn't really matter. The Auris hybrid won't draw much power before it's able to start up, so it won't take much juice from the other battery. The potential problems from this procedure are overplayed, just don't get the cables connected wrong - positive to positive, negative to negative is what you need. (But using your car to jump start another car is a different story - don't do it.) It's best to have the other car ticking over whilst you are doing this, so you don't flatten that battery too. When your car has successfully started, remove the earth (black) lead first at both ends. Then the positive (red) lead at both ends. Afterwards, It's definitely worth operating the car in 'Ready' (even if just sat on the drive) for an hour, or even more if you can, you don't have to drive fast or far, just have the system in 'Ready', on this car, it will charge the 12v battery at the same speed, regardless of how you are driving it. It is almost essential to trickle charge the battery overnight at the soonest opportunity, just to give yourself the best chance of stopping this happening again.
    1 point
  3. YOU simply devour the Handbook, Sir.
    1 point
  4. Hi, Elliot & welcome to T.O.C. This is what I've learnt, from a daily visitor to the celica-club.co.uk forum since 2004.. Corroded rear subframe Corroded/leaking radiator Corroded shock absorbers Corroded/broken springs Corroded brake pipes Corroded/leaking fuel filler pipe Corroded PAS pipe Corroded/leaking sunroof Corroded/seized calipers Buckled wheels Tired tailgate struts Broken fuel flap hinges Missing remote key I haven't mentioned the obvious "wear & tear" items, such as clutch/battery/exhaust/tyres, which are applicable on almost any used car. As can be seen from the list above, these cars were only built to last around 12 years, so you really need to be aware of what you could be letting yourself in for. The best advice I can give is, buy the newest car you can can afford, and proceed with extreme caution. Don't be tempted by a pre face lift 140, which has an inherent design flaw in the block. Good luck in your search 🙂 Kev.
    1 point
  5. Check the wheel nuts have been tightened properly.
    1 point
  6. PM me your vin and i will look it up there are a few variations, i take it its the longer one of the 2 if the joint is still good clean it out and repack with grease after fitting a new boot cv nut - a cold chisel and hammer, Then a socket on a long bar with someone standing on the brakes The cv is self is only held on the shaft with a circlip/clip
    1 point
  7. Seems a lot of work for an upgrade that will have little effect on a standard road going car as most of the braking effective is achieved by the front discs, unless you are using it for track days ? Expect you will also have to transfer or even modify the handbrake system and modify the brake pipes to fit the Corolla ? You only have to look at some of todays new cars which still use drums on the rears. https://www.wapcar.my/news/if-disc-brakes-are-better-why-do-modern-cars-still-have-drum-brakes-3813
    1 point
  8. If you touch the sensor twice within 5 seconds it activates a double lock, more secure. It’s probably covered in the car owners manual, it is for our 2010 Auris. There is a safety warning. Never double lock the doors when people in the car..... they will not be able to open the doors.
    1 point
  9. Blue coloured bulbs are very poor light source. Any other clear halogen bulb is better than those
    1 point
  10. 1 point
  11. Hi, yes you can do that while pressing on the button located near the front interior lights, remember every time you need to deactivate the interior sensors you will need to press on again before you leave and lock the car. 👍
    1 point
  12. Think the internal sensors can be enabled/disabled via a button by the interior map lights.
    1 point
  13. I was driving car for a couple of days about 2 miles to work (should have cycled instead but was frosty) anyway car didn’t kill me and garage replaced both springs, but I’m kicking myself that I didn’t think to replace both struts at the same time for the sake of £80-£100 anyway car back to normal now thanks for advice
    1 point
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