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    TonyHSD

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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/03/2021 in Posts

  1. Very often rubber bushes dried for real and become hard or too soft, they trap sometimes some dirt especially in winter and dry weather, like debris from the road and all that causes creaking suspension. You have two options, take the car for an hour drive tomorrow in the heavy rain on the motorway, or buy some wd-40 silicone spray and spray all rubber components on your suspension, no more creaking. My car had developed recently exactly same thing, been very dry for the last 6-7 weeks, try my advice and remember: never use red classic wd-40 spray on any rubber parts as this is harmful. Only use silicone spray that helps protect rubber and rejuvenate, make it elastic again. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402820450753
    2 points
  2. Our local cat converter is a Vet.
    2 points
  3. Even though the OP has got the answers, I notice he has a T27 from his profile. Since all manual T27's regardless of fuel type have 6 speed, I would only assume it is difficult to source a replacement petrol version, since there are more diesel gearboxes available! Unless the housing is destroyed, it would better to find a gearbox specialist to replace any damaged/worn internals. Otherwise wait until a suitable matching second hand gearbox becomes available.
    2 points
  4. Depends really. The newer models are quieter than the older ones i think. The newer cvt's are only noisy under harsh acceleration. Driven smoothly they're really quiet. If you push hard they hold at high revs.
    1 point
  5. I had a similar 'tracking' problem years ago on a car after having front wheel alignment done, because the garage had done the front alignment with the steering lock ON, rather than doing it properly with steering lock off and using special tool holding the steering wheel in the straight ahead position in the driver's seat. The car drove straight and true, but wheel was off centre, so drove it straight back and they did it properly.
    1 point
  6. kwik fit ? i wouldn't let them service a wheelbarrow
    1 point
  7. quoted 600 to a 1000 to fit new water pump on a 57 plate avensis 2.2 d4d estate. Was told engine needed taken out to do it. I bought water pump and done it myself without removing engine. Took me 10hr from start to finish. The pump is easy it's the getting to it that takes the time. I'm a joiner to trade not a mechanic but gathered as much info as possible before I tackled it
    1 point
  8. Very difficult to say from that video. It appears to me that the car is pulling to the left on its own and that periodically you correct it by straightening the wheel. You mention tyres. Are both of the same manufacture and tread pattern. It may or may not be an alignment issue. You can have an issue where the wheel is not centred but the car still tracks straight and true or you can have a problem where the car only runs straight if the wheel is held in the straight ahead position. A bent suspension part, unequally set track rods, all can do this. It needs a proper 4 wheel alignment imo to rule things out and get to the bottom of the problem.
    1 point
  9. I pulled into a service station which was almost as soon as the Blackpool illumination happened. I switched off the car and contacted Toyota. They told me to start the car to see if the engine would start, when I started the car it still had the malfunction but drove in EV mode in the car park. He then told me to wait for the AA man. I was concerned about leaving the car because it said Smart Entry might not be working, and I decided to move the car to a better place in the car park, that was when the problem resolved itself. The AA man could not find anything wrong on his diagnostic check. I now wonder when this may happen again.
    1 point
  10. I'd start from basics. Remove battery, clean terminals and ALL connections, particularly earths. Then proceed from there.
    1 point
  11. Thanks for your reply Joe. The attitude I have taken to paying to have the catloc fitted is purely as to provide a deterrent. If the thieves really want your cat one way or another they’ll get it no matter what you do. My gripe is purely with the law that doesn’t seem to support us as victims of crime & if anything that’s how this should be dealt with & compensation should be paid to cover the complete cost & inconvenience for the theft. Of course someone has to pay for this compensation & it should be the those that perpetrate this crime & get caught. All that they own should be taken off them to pay into this compensation scheme. Some of these characters are likely to be paying off their debts for the rest of their lives but I bet you if the law did this, cat thefts would soon become a thing of the past! It needs the punishment to fit the crime, it’s the only way it’ll be stamped out. Also thank you to Frosty for pointing out 10,000 signatures to the petition only gets a reply from the government. I always thought it was discussed at 10,000 but as you pointed out that doesn’t happen until 100,000 people sign.
    1 point
  12. I posted on the 3rd feb in reply to the original poster. My wife’s Yaris had this issue with me driving and my wife in the passenger seat. No fault codes, nothing to see. I got mixed feed back from the dealer. Depends on who you speak with. Statistically the problem experienced by forum members warrants Toyota interest. Rather than the dealerships attitude. This fault has never replicated itself. My wife’s Yaris still has an issue ( mentioned in another post by myself) with an intermittent high frequency sound produced under certain conditions. As it’s intermittent and they won’t accept a video and sound recording of the noise I’ve moved no further forward in getting this issue resolved. My wife loves the Yaris to drive, as do I. But as a retired engineer with more experience than the Toyota staff I have spoken with there are doubts in my mind about reliability. If this problem occurred on a smart motorway, I would be thinking of getting rid of the car. Confidence would be lost, all the garage would say “well there’s no data available on the fault” . Yes your dash cam might have recorded the audible sounds of the alarms but that’s not good enough for us. Sad but true. Just to make it clear when the fault happened the only residual fault displayed was the dash warning about a fault with the hybrid system. This had to be cleared by the garage. No other fault data was shown when the diagnostic system was interrogated.
    1 point
  13. Yes even on rough road surfaces it is quieter and road holding in the wet is a big improvement.
    1 point
  14. My new Yaris that I collected recently came with two remotes.
    1 point
  15. My apologies Alexandru, the tablet program takes over spelling at times, too often. 😀
    1 point
  16. No, You can't pair diesel gearbox to petrol engine. Petrol gearbox: Diesel gearbox: Bolts position doesn't match. Clutch housing (to engine block) have also bolts lot different places between diesel and petrol. And then there is problem with gear ratio etc..
    1 point
  17. Who accepts a brand new car with only one remote fob? It would be left on the forecourt until either a pair of remote fobs were supplied or a written confirmation that a second would be provided at an agreeable date, the only exception would be if for some reason you had knowingly agreed to this prior to purchase. At this stage it’s a little more complicated to resolve as you have accepted the car, but I would start at the dealership and escalate as required, nobody expects to buy a new car with only one fob and be hit with a surprise bill for £250, that’s not OK.
    1 point
  18. Before I got my newer one with the hill assist, I used the handbrake. Like the manual, set the gas pedal so its ready to go, then release the handbrake.
    1 point
  19. 1 point
  20. Well, very late reply and apologies, the car was taken off sale back then as my gf cancelled her order however she ordered again few months later and the Auris was sold three days ago to a car buying company, therefore will be on the market soon. It’s in very good condition with all new tyres, brakes and had only covered 65000 miles., 100k miles less than mine 🤭, Clean and tidy car. Now only one Auris left and new electric Hyundai which looks and feels a lot like Toyota. 😊
    1 point
  21. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-9YgNB5y7dbx/learn/learningcenter/car/noise_suppressors_installation_guide.html
    1 point
  22. dude i had that problem the other day in mine .did you do this https://www.fanaticaudio.com/posts/toyota-avensis-t27-kaiuttimien-vaihto/ well if youdid it the same way dose the sound come from the dash tweeters as well i was trying to find a gromit where i can run a positive wire from the battery threw the firewall as i did that same speaker upgrade and well i am going one step further with a PIONEER GM-D1004 wiring that in . well back to the problem when i was trying to fing where to put in the amp wire i took off my glove box and behind mine is my fuse box i moved the big cap that is on my dash left tweeter and well i moved it close to the main wires coming into the fuze box and i got that anoying buzzing that went up and down with me revving the car.really anoying. well i reached up and moved the cap which i had it covered in speaker foam and the sound went away thank god. i hope thats the same problem u have and can fix it .
    1 point
  23. After testing my friend 2018 Auris hybrid touring sport, I realized my 2006 feels not as Stabil as his when cornering and driving in winding road in Alps. So this spring I changed the REAR stabilizer bushing with Polyurethane from Siberian Bushing. The replacement takes less than 10 minutes after the car is jacked securely on the jackstands. The old stabilizer bushing from TRP (original Toyota) does not look bad and I feel no difference after the replacement. Next, change the stabilizer links. On the passenger side, it was really hard to remove. The hex keys starts to get seared of and vice-grip does not help either. I finally cut it with my electric reciprocal saw from LIDL and takes only 2 minutes. I replace it with !Removed! €23 (silver and has square 10mm) and return the KAVO €24(Junk). !Removed! stabilizer link is really well machine, galvanized, and really-really smooth tread and nuts. The rubber is very firm and fit well. KAVO metal part are all rounded not like TOYOTA OEM(cut link), very stiff, not smooth, painted. Overall !Removed! is 90% like original Toyota that cost €195 per peace. For The bushing, don't buy GSP, the picture shows like Toyota Bushing made by TRP, but actual product has no label and much softer than Toyota original bushing. In conclusions: Original Bushing and stabilizer links(balljoint parts) are still really good. Only the rubber parts are bad. Toyota sell it for €50 per corner, 2x more than Polyurethane that last much longer. I only have 63k miles and Toyota rubber parts on the links are already swelling and cause the car like a boat. Save your money and gets polyurethane instead, or buy !Removed! stabilizer links, and takes only the rubber if needed. Removing the links is pain in the nuts if the tread is already corroded. Siberian bushing 22mm fits perfectly and very smooth, no squeaks as long as you add the silicon grease+teflon tape on the metal bar.
    1 point
  24. This is all good stuff forumneers 🙂 - Engine sounds normal and the YT video in one of the threads with a dodgy water pump bearing doesn't seem to be the same in my case. It is a bit difficult to tell though as the diesel lump is a bit noisy when you have your head buried in there Going to pop the car to the garage I know and see if he can fit it in.... He's pretty good and allows me to buy the parts and then just charge labour..... I think I'll have to leave it for a couple of days as he will have other stuff on..... At least today looks like a good day for a cycle🚴👍
    1 point
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