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Well if you can't way go get a good battery charger and charge the battery slowly for 8-12 hours and it should revive it. If the battery if so dead that the charger refuses to charge it but the battery in series with a good one and charge both for 3-4 hours that will force some juice into the bad battery so it is recognized by the charger Another way to force a bad battery to charge is connect it directly to a 12v power supply for a few hours and they charge it properly. You have to repeat the process every week if you don't drive much but I am pretty sure you can make it last 1 month if you baby it Always charge car batteries in a well ventilated room.

Simples - cars are for driving, not for spending hours looking through data that may not be of any practical use. It’s a new car - just drive it. That’s my opinion, agree or not.

I have a 2001 Corolla 1.6 auto vvti & think it`s a great, well made car. Mine has about 65K miles on it, so lightly used & too good to trade in!

The app thinks it's connected, but at no time in the process was I asked to enter my mileage. In the 'services' section of the App (Android btw) I have: "Service and Maintenance" (not much in there since it's only done 6 miles) "Send to car" (completely pointless - why is it even there) "Find My Car" which just says 'There has been a connection issue. Please drag the screen down to refresh' (clearly that option is wrong on Android - but pressing the refresh button next to the text doesn't fix it. "Hybrid Coaching" which is completely empty and doesn't have even trip back from dealership in there "Warning Lights" "Car Calendar" I'm going for a long drive tomorrow so maybe something will kick into life. I think that's just the way it works. I can only compare with my Focus. You can't play bluetooth from your phone (or another phone) when you are connected via AA. Can't see why you would need to though. You can play everything through AA anyway using a variety of apps - Cloudplayer, MD Player, Poweramp (my favourite), Media Monkey - even Emby. One 'odd' thing I noticed is that if you start something playing in AA, when you jump back to Toyota in the AA menu and go into media, it shows what is playing there too. Gracenote has a lot of stuff, but I have pretty diverse range of stuff and some (eg Hans Zimmer / Rain Man) just display either a "Soundtrack" stock image, or the Artist image (in the case of Rain Man, a picture of Hans Zimmer). I've check the mp3s and the tracks definitely have embedded art. Ford had to add an extra menu item to use the embedded artwork. The current option for Gracenote is likely to pull other data from that database, eg, in my Focus, when Gracenote was on, anything by Kitaro was displayed as 喜多郎. I imagine the Toyota option is likely to do the same thing. Another thing I will test tomorrow. Thanks for you help so far...

I too was waiting for a new 12 volt battery. My 2015 Auris Hybrid sometimes used to fail to start. Let it rest with ignition on and retry and always then started. Dealer said battery tested ok. Had issues again, tested ok. Car ready so went to set off and failed to start on dealership! Informed them and said we can either jump start or fit a new battery, tomorrow. Great, I'll go for the new battery. Went and checked and none in stock, on back order! Waited 5 weeks and phoned to say in stock/booked appointment. Got there and dealer had been sent a non hybrid version! Waited another week and finally fitted! I had ordered a battery charger for AMG/lead acid options cheap off Ebay. Plan was to fully charge the battery if it failed, thankfully I was using the car far more and it kept working. I was also in the fortunate position to have another car, a 1996 Volvo 940. This one. 8 Amp Intelligent Car Battery Charger Pulse Repair Starter 12V/24V AGM/GEL UK!! | eBay Only had to use it on my Volvo battery as failed to start as left interior light on. Not used on my Auris. I would give it an overnight charge and if it works great. If it conks out when out use recovery if you have it or just charge it weekly. James.

Topics merged. Topics that affect the Toyota range rather than one model (such as Toyota Relax) tend to be posted in General Discussions, rather than individual clubs.

Nothing in this forum (I checked before posting) but you are of course quite right to make me aware that I failed to check others. My most profound apologies for the inconvenience caused.

Useful diagnostics ? As it's a new car the only thing that will fully interface with the car is Techstream what is a paid subscription service what works with proper J2354 VCI (Mini VCI will not work with the genuine software) Toyota TS2+ (OTC in the US) £890 (VCI only) Bosch Mastertech 2 £1200 Autel Maxi £500-2500 If you want OBD2 PID's and Packet content, Toyota will licence them to you There are 100's of companies that do this sort of work already, and even more companies in China that will rip off any research and information and build a product for 1/10th of the cost

got call to-day from dealer tow bar fitted expected in n.i. 12th so pickup dayys later,i hope

Sounds a lot better. The video played fine on my laptop - 2012 Samsung with Nvidia graphics and i7 16GB SSD and 1TB, running latest Windows 10, sorry for the tech nerd. 🤓 Great work and I wouldn't worry too much about the condensation. Keep an eye on it. So long as the bolts are done tight, I think everything is all good. 👍

Just seen that its the old model, ignore me.

Is it a gen2 prius? Could be 12V battery on the way out.

Thanks for the replies and the photos are very useful. This creaking is very annoying at low speeds and it's almost continuous. The area of the seat that it comes from is quite localised, don't know about rust as it happened from only a few months old, but I think I'll try to pick a suitable fluid and risk damage, though I'll proceed very carefully

Hi, we have had 3 smart cars, 2 from new, both the new ones were ok for the first 2 years of ownership and the week after the warranty ran out { only 2 year warranty with smarts } they started getting intermittent faults, engine management faults and going into limp mode which smart could not rectify!! first couple of visits were FOC goodwill repair they called it, if the truth be known they probably plugged into the diagnostics and just put the light out, then the next time it went back they decided it needed a new wiring loom at a cost to me of £1250, so part ex for a new diesel one, very similar story after 2 years the EML and limp mode started, and surprise surprise they couldn't fix it, and again suggested a new wiring loom and to top it all the price had gone up to £1900 and they were not 100% sure that it would cure the fault, LOL Well I started looking round the service department for Jeremy Beadle to jump out on me and tell me it was all a prank, but no he was not there. I drove from there straight to Car Giant and part Ex'd it for a year old IQ auto with only 3800 miles on the clock, we bought this as a second car but to be honest the Mercedes stays in the garage most of the time and like mick787 says only comes out for long journeys or when the Mrs has got the IQ, we love this car, in the 8 years we have owned it it hasnt missed a beat and it has only cost us a new set of tyres and regular servicing, its a great little car to drive, comfortable, enough room in the back for picking up the grandkids from school occasionally, and a fantastic turning circle, we would really miss this car if anything ever happened to it and we would have to get another one, just a shame they have stopped making them. So UKjonathon I would not hesitate getting one, you wont regret it

For different reasons (seat base clicking and a lumber adjust installation)I have taken the seat apart. On our older model the seats did have some superficial rust on the frame - there is no paint put on these seats frames. If you unzip the rear of the driver's seat cover whilst sat in the rear of the car (some elasticated loops may need removing from underneath the seat for this to come free, it is not intuitive how these fit, a photo with a camera phone on the car floor might help you later on to see how they clip on). The first picture where rust was located on our car (arrows pointing to behind the frame piece) with the seat cover completely removed. The second picture shows the rust, but from a perspective you won't get! You can see the inside of the seat without removing the cover, just by unzipping the two vertical zips (with no 'tangs', btw, can be a little painful on the fingers). When the rust rubs against the foam upholstery, it does seem to creak. I don't know if this is what you are suffering from. But some furniture polish or such like in that area might help you. I removed the rust with a 3M Scotchbrite pad, so no grit was left behind. It's a bit of a squeeze if the seat is still in the car - it depends how big you are and if you've got nimble fingers.

Can we just go back to this that you said in the first post. Are you saying that if you allow the key to touch the bodywork then it locks and unlocks every single time and that if you then move the key away from the car it does not work. You touch or alter nothing else. Is what you said here something that is repeatable time after time? If it is then I think you have to be looking at a problem with the radio receiver part of the central locking and it being low sensitivity for some reason.

Of no help to you David, but there seems to be an increase in persons who do something like that and drive off. Daughter and Son-in-Law bought a new to them car three weeks ago, absolutely pristine and 12 months old. In a parking spot, a week ago, and someone reversed out and scraped the car's front bumper. They got out, checked their car for damage and drove off. Fortunately a taxi driver witnessed it, has the incident on his dashcam and he's made a statement and will provide the video to the perpetrator's insurance. They have denied all knowledge and "weren't there"! Some charming people around.

Update: Fitted the exhaust today, omg what a difference, silence is a bliss. 🙂 I was feeling bit lazy so tried to use the old gasket, it looked to be in good condition so tried it but then took it off as there was a bit weeping of water. I then took off the old gasket, got rid of the debris and cleaned surface with mini wire brush, inserted the new gasket as per the service guide, torqued bolts to 43Nm. Also, measured springs, 39.2mm (service guide says min 38.5mm), but forgot to measure the gap between the flanges but it looks even. Now there is more weeping of water than the old gasket, video attache.I am hoping this will seal up once its had a chance to heat up properly.... 20210529_175322_1.mp4

I agree, once the manufacturer warranty expires after the 5th year it might be a better option to service the car at local trusted independent or by yourself as diy. It will all depend of personal circumstances of course and ability to do so. Toyota cars in general are well made and easy to maintain, plus they last for longer than any other cars. In my case I use my old Auris for work and travel sometimes excess of 1000 miles per week, do my own service with genuine parts as per the manual. The savings from not going to the dealer garages are huge, savings from fuel bill are good too, so far happy days. Hybrid battery health check it’s not really necessary if no future claim is available since it’s only check, I carry this myself, plus cleaning the battery cooling fan myself too. Covered 110000 miles since the summer of 2018, got its 170k service yesterday, to date the car only needed regular service and few times brakes all around due to a rust when the car wasn’t much in use previously. , and wheel bearings because of the same reason and that’s all, anything else is original including the two batteries 12v and the 200v.

Cheapest fix ever, although took a lot of time to find out. Both Water temp and Itake temp plugs had bad contact. Both sensors measured to be within specs checked STA/IGN also and was good and tested to jump +50ohms when heated. Although I don't understand why it gave 51 AC error even after reset, but I don't actually mind much about that. So it is running fine. Now bit of a testing drive and then forward to E85 conversion with speeduino for more power. :)

I have changed my rear brake pads, and when winding back the pistons (left and right handed as using the kit shown), makes sure the piston cut outs are horizontal to the caliper when you finish! This is important at it aids fitting the caliper over the new pads, which have a nipple on the back of the pads. If the caliper has to be forced on, then the piston or inner brake pad will be force to work at an angle, causing the pad to wear at a slant or the piston jam against the inside of caliper bore. The inner pad will wear faster than the outer pad, but because it is not as visible as the out brake pad, not easy to spot! Apart that, no diagnostic should be needed when replacing the rear brake pads. Not everyone has diagnostics anyway, plus using the wrong diagnostic tool can cripple the auto parking brake, as I learnt to my cost. Wrong diagnostics reset will delete the zero point setting of the g-force and clutch settings, giving warning/fault lights and message. The parking brake can only be operated manually, using the button. I fixed it myself using Techstream.

Well, its arrived, £110 delivered, £23 for the donut gasket. Hoping for a dry weekend to find out if the gamble paid off. 🤔