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Another garage fan here, but also find it a close fit for the Corolla. Precision parking is a must have skill! I love having a cool car to get into in summer and a frost free start in winter. Reassuringly more secure too. I am definitely the oddball in my road, though. Nobody else uses their garage for their car around here! 😅

Also good for protecting catalytic convertors too.

I have a 2020 Excel that has dark-grey headliner and A-pillars. Doesn't feel gloomy or too dark. Indeed, quite the opposite: for me it sets just the right ambience. Complements the overall interior colour scheme. It's one of the reasons I bought the Excel. Love it actually 🙂

It's worth to spend more money getting genuine oil for transmission. I had mine changed 2x on my other car, both times they were really expensive oil, but not directly from manufacturer. Just made things worse, lot of crunching, unable to get the car in gear unless the car is warm, etc.

I know! Keeps it cleaner, rubber seals don’t deteriorate as quickly, and you don’t need to defrost it in winter. I love my garage!

Thank you @Bernard Foy She is definitely a little bit special, inside we have purple padded velvet everywhere, mirrored ceilings and chandeliers! Because why not!?!

I've installed map updates four times now on my 2019 Design hatchback (no Apple/Android here). All have been with a USB stick and I have never been given any choice in what was installed. It would seem to be all or nothing, unless I've missed something blindingly obvious.

Mine is a non-hybrid petrol - they stole it in February

Yeah, I think the knee-***** switch to EVs really wrong-footed Toyota; I reckon they were expecting to get another decade or so to refine the hybrid tech even further. We might have seen a PHEV Yaris! The difference between the Mk3 and Mk4 Yaris hybrids feels so huge I really wonder what they could have done by the time we got to the Mk5! (I'm still secretly hoping they dust off the old Hybrid R concept ) I intend to keep this one for as long as possible to justify the eye-watering cost - Hopefully someone will have invented much better batteries or Energon cubes or Mr Fusion or something by the time I have to change again, so this trend of short-ranged giant land barge EVs can be reversed!

I asked the question as well as you saw!!! Basically their answer is a non answer! If there's a problem take it to your garage and they'll decide whether it's covered or not. Doesn't give much confidence but then I suppose there are lots of variables and they can't say the complete handbrake system is all covered. I suspect it covers the electronic element as that's not subject to wear and tear. As that's the expensive bit, as I understand it, I'm hoping failure of it would be covered but I'm not completely confident. I think this demonstrates the need to keep on good terms with your local dealership to get them on your side if a claim ever needs to be made.

Took one from an Avensis up the road from me yesterday - no hybrid Avensis so either thought it was an auris or they are starting to take them from anything.

@StevieJ Re: creaking try this: This also happened to on our 2007 Yaris, I used 'Wurth Rubber care on all rubber bushings and cv boots under the car. This stuff softens/rejuvenates the rubber components and also got rid of the creaking when driving over speed humps. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-X-300ml-WURTH-GUMMI-PFLEGE-RUBBER-CARE-AEROSOL-SPRAY-CAN/273956522313?epid=1027127667&hash=item3fc914c949:g:qk8AAOSwMkJdSEJy I also use White lithium spray grease to lubricate the bearings that sit on top of the front shock absorbers, this cures the creaking when pulling away slowly as 'shavestick' mentions in his post. To do this I turn the steering full lock and then 'pop' the bonnet, using a large flat screwdriver I gently prise the driver's side black rubber/plastic cover that sits on top of the strut on the inner wing, then using the straw to spray grease onto the bearings (it's a bit hit and miss at first and you may need to do this on more than one occasion to hit the spot by angling the straw downwards slightly.) I then turn the steering to the opposite lock and proceed to do the same on the passenger side. The alternative is to strip the front suspension down and replace the bearings due to the grease drying out, I know which option I would choose every time! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WD40-High-Performance-White-Lithium-Grease-Spray-Rust-and-Corrosion-250ml-New/293274161295?hash=item444880908f:g:hrYAAOSwOKlcjyTf Hope you find this tip useful.

Only in the wet road or loose chippings...dont remove the bumper though 😂

This is what concerns me about the new Toyota 1 year warranty extension after a service. Will advisory work start to increase for customers? If the work isn't carried out then the 1 year warranty will be void? Hopefully Toyota won't turn into a business where you take your car in for a service but come out needing a complete set of new brakes, wiper blades, tyres etc even when they are not necessarily required.

My recommendation would be to have a Catloc (or similar) installed for peace of mind. Friend of mine has a non hybrid Toyota where the catalytic converter is tucked up near the engine. The local scum sawed off his silencer - probably thinking it was the Cat.

The dealer will have access to it on Euro 5/6 through the portal - its paid access, what it I don't have at the moment A Brief description is.......................... 19 Data Communication Module, Multiple issues (DTC B15C464, DTC B15A804 & ROB 2210) i will pm you a link to relevant info

All it ever did on my corolla was stop spraying the car behind on a rainy day on the motorways....I've noticed other drivers tend to get too close behind you. With out mud guard, they keep their distance as they don't want muck on their screen, so my Auris doesn't have one. 😃

1.7L, API GL-4 or SAE 75w The recommended oil is. Toyota manual transmission gear oil LV 75W

Sorry i remember your other post now, If you have your owners manual you will find all the information on warning lights (page 352) https://www.dropbox.com/s/g8popivn3wo9bl3/aygo.pdf?dl=0

Thanks for your replies everyone, I actually passed my test in 1988, but never drove for various reasons. Having recently taken early retirement from teaching (yay!!!) I have invested in some refresher lessons which are still ongoing. I have just started doing local drives on my own-to the shops etc and am really enjoying it and becoming less nervous. I tried a manual car but much prefer an automatic as I feel I'm not having to multitask as much and can concentrate on the road, it makes me feel less nervous. My driving instructor teaches me in my own car. I will wait and see the verdict and make my decision then. It does sound as if it may be the clutch from flash22's post above.

The grey door mouldings look so much better against darker paint colours. 👍🏻 They just stand out like a sore thumb on pale silver.

When you say you got the car to practice in, I take you have passed your test or have a suitable experienced driver and displaying L plates ? Your car is an automatic but not a traditional automatic, it's an automated Manual The error you have is usually the clutch overheating, potentially cause by a worn, slipping clutch

It seems house / garage builders still think we drive around in Austin A35s! Showing my age here 😁

How dare you. Mine are not painted. But, yes, much better aesthetically than naked black. However, my car is Decuma Grey, quite a dark grey, and there's less of a contrast than those on the lighter grey (your) car in the picture. Add to that, I am a cheapskate too!

If you have recently bought the car from a dealer you should have a warranty

Yes, heating with a hairdryer (not too much!) certainly helps and I've also read recommendations to spray the top of the moulding (or whatever is stuck in place) with WD40 first and let it penetrate (acts as lubricant or attacks the adhesive?). Also I've never used fishing/strimmer wire but, don't be alarmed, a flat steel paint scraper with the blade wrapped in a microfibre cloth has worked for me. Fishing line has worked (sawing motion) for me in removing a dashcam from a windscreen.

See what your brother-in-law says after he has looked at it before considering changing it. The Aygo/Citroen C1/Peugeot 107 are basically the same car and the 'auto option' is the same with all three - a manual gearbox with automated clutch. The later Aygo/C1/108 from mid 2014 use a developed form of the same gearbox. Do you need an auto, or would you be able to cope with a manual?

Helen, Sorry, didnt check my spelling, should have read "a standard gearbox with gear stick" ie what is called a manual gear change .Dave - thats what I said in my post.

Remember that the Aygo 'automatic' isn't a real automatic - it's a semi-manual. What that means is it's a normal manual gearbox and clutch but they are controlled by an ECU using mechanical actuators.

A couple of weeks ago the ambient temperature was less than 10 degrees. It makes a big difference. Last Friday I had to reduce my tyres from 39f/38r back to the 35/34 they were set at at the beginning of May. Motoring got quieter!

unusual to hear people still use their garage to keep the car in!

Yeah i really love the car. It's pretty quick, reliable and has decent fuel economy. However it has a serious drinking problem, namely the fuel goes bye bye when you're having fun 😄 haha

Keep them. I have them on my Prius Excel and I think they look fine. Mor importantly, they do a job well.

Took a 2.0L C-HR Design out for a decent test drive of nearly 60 miles , mix of M Way , A/B roads and some town driving , drove at the relevant speed limit and the onboard computer was reading 60.7 mpg, even if the computer is 5% optimistic that’s still an impressive 57.7 mpg. The 2.0l engine never felt underpowered and overall very impressed with the car👍

My 2016 Auris Excel hybrid hatchback does. One of a bank of three switches near the gear selector: EV mode ECO mode PWR mode

Toyota GB has a recall checker owners can use to check for recalls - if a brand new recall, check today and in a couple weeks: https://forms.toyota.co.uk/recall-checker

To get the real world average from the car computer you will need to drive the car more or on few occasions. Because if only done a trip of 150 miles you might had achieved 74mpg average indeed, however before that and after that the real world average will adjust since the car will get used in not so ideal conditions, start at cold, traffic jams, climbing uphill, waiting on traffic lights etc, using air con, the latest uses a lot of battery power and when on and it’s working hard to cool of the cabin the ice kicks in a lot more often to preserve the battery for propelling the car and ice uses petrol even when is running as a generator. There are many factors to add to do overall picture of fuel consumption. My car is ultra accurate, but I drive a lot and on long journeys in pretty much all conditions and when compare pump with dashboard are almost equal. 👍