Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Leaderboard

  1. AisinW

    AisinW

    Registered Member


    • Points

      6

    • Posts

      1,368


  2. flash22

    flash22

    Established Member


    • Points

      3

    • Posts

      13,089


  3. TonyHSD

    TonyHSD

    Established Member


    • Points

      2

    • Posts

      10,145


  4. Wooster

    Wooster

    Registered Member


    • Points

      2

    • Posts

      223


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/06/2021 in all areas

  1. A 10 amp fuse will blow at around 14 amp - the horn fuse supplies the control and feed sides, The horn switch is on the negative side a horn push is momentary so doesn't have a constant current like a blower fan, the horn relay is in the 20-30 amp range the average horn is 3-6 amps Electric trumpet horns or air horns pull circa 12 amps (car type ones)
    2 points
  2. today i found away to change the horn on a facelift mk2 auris without removing the bumper since the grill doesn't seem to be removed easily. 1) i removed all clips holding the plastic panel between the grill and bonnet locking plate 2) turned the panel through 90 degrees to gain access behind the grill 3) removed original horn. 4) fitted new horns see photos below i hope this may help others
    1 point
  3. Hello Chu - welcome to Toyota Owners Club.
    1 point
  4. For the clubs benefit (and for the interest of other Auris owners), tonight I ran my petrol down as low as I’d dare go. I had 5 miles range left, then the range indicator went to all dashes. - - - - 😳 Range anxiety!! I had 2.5 miles to go to reach the safety of the petrol station 😬 Would I make it?…. I’m pleased to report that I made it to the petrol ⛽️ pump safely. Phew! 😰
    1 point
  5. Well it looks like i have had no joy from the garage that did the disc and pad change .... they said they can hear the noise [like something ratchering up] and tell me they had it on the ramp , checked it and it is normal but they did not take the wheel off it seems as the locking wheel nut was not touched , I said as an ex engineer it seems that something is catching somewhwere ,but no sir it is just the cable stretching... I am 78, and next time its the main dealer for me ,not the garage 100 yds from my house THANKYOU GUYS . i COULD TAKE IT FURTHER, BUT SORRY ,AT MY AGE I CANT STAND THE HASSLE ANY MORE
    1 point
  6. I wouldn't bother with the stickers. Why give them the heads up on what security you have. They then know if done a Catloc before what tools they will need to remove. They will look under anyway, hoping no security. James.👍
    1 point
  7. Those are good choice. I chose Zimmermann Zn coated disc and Aisin pads because AISIN (€25) has GG pad grade, GF pad on Brembo or TRW. Anything higher than FF are good. Cheap pads are usually EE or FE. I think Ferrodo is also great. I thought AISIN will be the same as original pads from Advics (€190) but they are not. Aisin is OEM toyota for transmission, waterpump, etc. Also I have corrosion on the outher rims of the old disc because they are not painted or coated
    1 point
  8. My 2018 Auris had the same Denso Noddy-Car horn. Replaced it with a pair of Hella disc horns. Used the existing wiring and it all worked, but the Toyota wiring isn't really up to the job. It's surprisingly thin and I'll replace it soon with something more substantial. There is a 10Amp fuse and a relay in the horn circuit.
    1 point
  9. You most certainly should have received the window stickers. I had a Catloc fitted to my old Prius - and received stickers. I've very recently had a Catloc fitted to my Auris and received the stickers. I'd recommend you contact the Toyota dealership again and ask for the name of the After Sales Manager. But - not sure what use the stickers are. As you said, you can buy stickers on eBay, so they don't prove you have a Catloc fitted. It only takes the thieving scum a few seconds to look under you car - stickers or not.
    1 point
  10. I recommend you not to replace balljoint with 10x worse from aftermarket. There is no single case balljoint failure in Corolla or Auris unless it is aftrrmarket balljoint or bad accident.
    1 point
  11. The thread direction is to prevent it 'walking' off, which is usually the opposite direction to that people expect (by drag from friction). It's worth googling it - which is what I did when one of my bike pedals unscrewed itself and I was thinking WTF?
    1 point
  12. The Mirai is fuel cell/battery. This is what I would prefer for the future. Fill up in a few minutes, and get a proper range, doesn't need massive battery packs. I did ponder EV next, I have a garage to house a decent charger and a driveway. But I'm not ready yet to give up the ease and range of ICE-based, which is why I've gone hybrid. But yes, the key is to be able to produce hydrogen cheaply and cleanly. I've been reading about that new fusion experiment, that's great but in the meanwhile we are an island surrounded by wind and water. Let's use these.
    1 point
  13. Think how I felt reading that, we had them all parked up from 2nd gen to 5th gen on the drive last week - where am I going to get rid of a collection like that now the secrets out 😄
    1 point
  14. No, just covered the blue tint with black wrapping foil., my car is old model no sensors inside. Easy job done and if I want to return to hybrid appearance I can easily too, done already on one car. Pictures of the front and rear emblem, rear one just removed the blue plastic, can put back as background when needed. 👍 used this video for information
    1 point
  15. I thought that the dealer/garage standard was 'too much for anyone without an air gun to undo'.
    1 point
  16. I have fitted mainly PIAA horns over the years, it's on my to do list for the yaris, tee hee I can't stand a noddy horn on a car
    1 point
  17. I changed mine with a pair of Hella for VW, they sound great and I didn't fitted any additional relay, the car has one fitted by factory and it's enough; since then I hadn't any problem...
    1 point
  18. What make / model of horn did you fit? The standard (single) horn on the 2016 Auris is embarrassingly feeble. 😳 (Its a DENSO ND-012 disc type horn). I’ve had a look at mine through the grille. Is yours a pre-facelift? Or a post-facelift model?
    1 point
  19. Yes, Blue print is decent aftermarket, but not at the same level as KYB, Bilstein, KOYO, SKF, AISIN, Lemfoerder, or Schaeffler. But no one sell Toyota Original/Genuine Balljoint, Oil seals, or Bushings. Only dealer sell it. The front stabilizer links could be made by SKF and Struts/shocks by KYB or Billstein, not blueprint. However, they are not identical but very close. Struts mount from KYB and from Toyota-KYB are not identical, the OEM parts has better finish and constructions. The only thing that identical are AISIN waterpump, lower control arms, and offcourse Mobil1 0w-20 or 0w16, it is just resticker with Toyota badge. I love Blueprint filters for non suspension parts like busings like balljoints, engine mounts, or control arms. I always go with AISIN or Toyota. The control arm from Aisin/Toyota could last 200k miles or more but aftermarket always fail within 30-50k miles, the rubber crack or torn pretty fast, and balljoints knocking. For brake disc, Bosch, Brembo, or Zimmermann are great but for pads Toyota with ZYYxxxxxx part numbers are actually aftermarket with Toyota box (approved by Toyota) and usually made by Aisin or Textar.
    1 point
  20. For Japanese cars the first company for spare parts that should look for except oem obviously is Blueprint. These are of the highest quality aftermarket parts and very often are the same as the original one only difference is that they comes in blue boxes not red and white. 👍 all of the above can be good too, although I will look at blueprint first.
    1 point
  21. Febi Bilstein is cheap decent aftermarket. Bilstein shock/struts is high-end struts, as good as OEM KYB, completely different company as Febi/Swag. There are good brands: SKF, KYB, INA/!Removed!/RUVILLE, Bilstein, KOYO, Aisin, NTN, Timken, TRP, Sach/Stabillus. Stick with those for front end and suspension parts.
    1 point
  22. Catloc is important in UK and USA with tons of Cat thieves. thick 3mm steel plate will not rattle. Do not change any Original genuine parts. Especially ball joint, they never go bad forever, literally 1 Million miles. The tie-rod and stabilizer links are 10x more expensive than aftermarket because it is indeed 10x more durable. There is no point replacing excellent part with inferior aftermarket. The nuts and bolts may be rusted and removing them often destroy it, especially stabilizer links. The links form Toyota are freely and smoothly moving, not stiff like aftermarket because it has composite polymer housing and very-very durable. Aftermarket with old tech metal housing are stiff at the beginning and wear out fast and start knocking. What I found that can go bad are the rubber bottom on rear stabilizer bar links and rarely the front stabilizer bar bushing.
    1 point
  23. For front ends noise, I never get any solution on regular mechanics or Stealership. Only specialist Front ends or alignment shop found what my problems in the past. They really know how to diagnose suspension parts. Back in 2010, they found how the dealership installed wrong direction of the crossmember reinforcement and missing 1 bolt on the exhaust causing crazy vibration at 1500 rpm. Just my suggestions, go to very reputable Alignment shop.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership