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The best thing you can do is to test drive one. Mine is the first automatic I have ever owned and I would never go back to a manual car again. I'm sure that when you have driven one you will like it.

Just to clarify, the Toyota Relax Warranty is *NOT* a 10 year extended warranty - It is a *1* Year extended warranty that renews every time you service it at a Toyota garage, and that you can renew up to 10 times.

Remembering 45 years ago is not too much a problem, it’s what went on 5 minutes ago……that is the problem. 🤪

Hi High mileages are possible

Toyota suggest that: "The process of making a car can be roughly divided into stamping, welding, painting, assembly and inspections, which takes about 17-18 hours in total" - so it's not actually 'in' the factory for very long at all! It then has to: Wait for a slot on the boat Travel by sea - Sea freight takes around 40 days, plus a few days either side for loading, unloading and customs clearance, but the vessel may not come directly to the UK - it may have other stops on the way that can extend the journey time I believe they typically unload in Bristol and can be stored there for some time From there they go to Toyota in Burnaston ... ... and then to the dealer for delivery to you If the dealer has said 12-16 weeks that that is probably what it will be! 😉

Just don’t use accessories mode and alway keep the car in ready mode while seated in and use anything like radio, infotainment or charging your phone. The message you get is as preventative measure to stop you doing exactly that, and the car should also switch off automatically all consumables in an hour time or less, but if you do this on regular basis will kill 12v battery. If the car get regular use for half an hour or more at a time you will be ok with your battery long time, I am still fine with my original battery even after 11 years. 👍

Yaris is a city car all models all years. Too small for a frequent long motorway journeys, it’s not just engine power or performance but generally speaking everything. Minimum golf or Jetta class which means Prius or Auris or Corolla if you would like to be a Toyota hybrid, which actually are the best automatic petrol cars available to date. I am using an Auris hybrid for that job covering 200+ miles per day every day 5+ days a week and it’s just fine, anything below would not be comfortable enough IMO, bigger would be better but since I pay my own money for fuel and maintenance I made my choice. My next car eventually will be Corolla or Prius., but I don’t rush to buy and hope I can keep the Auris for another few years before changing it. Been thinking of larger car as those are much more refined to drive on long journeys, something like Camry or Lexus ES, however I will loose at least 10 mpg and if i go Prius / Corolla 1.8 I will eventually gain 10mpg, with my driving will make sense. Yaris is a great car but not a motorway cruiser for sure, ok 10-30 miles a day will be fine but 100+ not really.

If your battery is under the bonnet then as long as your booster battery is accessible no problem. If your battery is in the boot, two options. 1. Use a positive terminal in the engine bay. Or 2. Wire a charging cable to the battery Note battery charger cables can carry only a low current. A battery booster carries a much higher current thus needs heavier duty cables.

The techstream version does not have security clearance to do the immobilizer or VIN write Im not sure if the paperclip method works on these cars https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QocuEYNE6KM

😂 Looking forward to it!

Spoken like a true Brit! I gotta say these TNGA hybrids are really good - It's like Toyota suddenly realized that driving dynamics are a thing and factored it into their designs, unlike the previous gen models! The uprated electric motors and the new Dynamic Force IC engines really make a difference in how they drive. I still feel the power steering is over-assisted, but you can feel that they worked on the handling and driving feel, which felt like something that they just forgot about in older models! Or where they'd say something like "Tuned for european tastes" for some cars, which translated to "The ride is unreasonably hard and the suspension feels like it has scaffolding poles instead of shock absorbers"

Well, think of it this way, all this frustration and annoyance will just make the car seem even more awesome when you finally get it

My Mk4 came with Bridgestone Ecopias on ridiculous 17" alloy rims - Ride was very rough and noisy; Switched to Hankooks on 15" steel rims and the ride was much smoother, quieter and it even seems to have slightly improved mpg and acceleration!

Great, you must be relieved.

Nick, I would feel and react in a very similar manner and unfortunately in my case I’d probably have sleepless nights with the “mind worm” running though the options continuously.

1. yes it can be, especially at higher speeds 2. its fully automated, eco mode reduces throttle response, there is an ev mode button that put the car in EV upto 20-25 mph as soon as you hit the throttle it will drop out of ev mode 3. its like driving a petrol, engine revs will build as you build speed once at speed you can back off the throttle and use the top 1/4 of the pedal to maintain speed, the motor is mainly used under 30 mph and/ or no more than 1/4 throttle, but that depends on the battery charge 4. its not as bad as some i have driven, the climair wind deflectors help It's a different style of driving you let the car build speed, and coast up to junctions and down hills, Mpg takes a hit in the cooler months - high 40's to mid 50's if it's below 5-6ºc Mid 50's to low 60's in the summer - i have seen mid 70's on a few runs Make sure it has decent tyres all round 15" are £40-50 fitted for the mid range, tyres 16" are £10-20 more each the 16" with lower profile tyres can make the ride harsh especially on rough roads All in all, the Mk3 is best suited for around town, a space saver spare is a must ps. be careful around carparks at low speed as people don't hear the car

home from beach nothing to report all went great .....what a day out hot hot hot ....motor was good too used sport mode to-day,driving twisty hilly roads.🤣

Keep us posted 👍 You just need to code the keys and write the vin any shop with a high-end scan tool can do that

First off, check the cabin filter and make sure there is no debris in the box It's likely never been changed £12 for the filter and a 5 min job

@Nick72, more or less what you expected but a right pain in the *****! I’d certainly write to them and lodge a formal complaint but if the truth is that they wanted the Sept. plate then I’m afraid you could probably write the reply you’re likely to get back yourself “very sorry, etc., etc”. It’s sometimes good, however, to vent a frustration as it has a way of settling it in the mind. I’ve had many company cars in the past and the experience has been mixed but those were purchased by the company rather than leased. Nowadays as I once again buy my own I can at least keep track of the delivery and always insist on at least monthly updates by phone and more frequently when the date is near. For me the MyT app was great as I was sometimes ahead of the dealer in tracking a movement or progress stage. Once again I hope it really gets resolved and that you can then have a firm delivery date.

As Tony says, the wear limit is 2mm on front and rear brake pads. And the front pads were likely around 10mm when new. So, unless i'm missing something, that's around 1mm of front pad wear per 13,000 miles of your driving You have 6mm of pad thickness left, so I'd look to you having about 70,000+ miles left on the fronts pads from the measurement you've given. But that's assuming the caliper sliders aren't binding, which can make the pads wear more quickly. It's a simple job to clean and lubricate them, and not different to any regular (non-hybrid) car, so not a specialist job at all, just a bit mucky and time-consuming. Worth thinking about getting that done every 2 - 3 years as well.

Review of the Yaris Cross: Size wise it would suit me and I will have a look at it when it is in the showroom, however my last 2 cars had 3 cylinder engines and I wasn't keen on them. Also I have to agree with ApophisAstros; who thought squared off wheel arches were a good design feature? I haven't had the perfect car yet so it is possible one might appear on my drive sometime in the future.

Thanks very much Tony. I am very reassured by your comments.

Hi, with your mileage probably your brakes will last lifetime of the car 😊, all you will need to do is a brake fluid change once every 2-3 years and cleaning and lubricating the slider pins on the brake callipers periodically, if you do that no joke for the very long lasting. Most of the braking is done by the electric motor and brake pads work only at the end of each stopping. 100k miles are possible with one set of brakes on these cars. 👍

Nice country. Did a 2 week coach tour in 1976 to Katowice, Poland for the World Speedway Final on a Sunday, passed into Czechoslovakian at Ostrava, couple days in Prague ending up in Marianske Lazne the following Sunday for the World Long Track Championship, back to Hamburg to pick up the boat. Being in the communist controlled days it was always interesting when we got to a border control.

I was starting my car just fine in -20C with 5W30, was using Champion new energy oil. You get better lubrication with 5W30, but 0W20, gets you 2-3% better mpg. Usually people switch to 5W30 after the car hits some 100k miles, for better engine protection.

There isn't currently a Lexus equivalent of the Corolla as they have dropped the CT (which was based on the Auris). They would show you an UX "compact SUV".

yes, since 2011 on all new cars.

Exceptional mpg indeed Joe. Warm windless weather,+15 in wheels,+ good fuel+ anticipatory driving skills,+ 56mph max + level geography =best return ? I was bought a Pac a mac by my mum and dad on holiday in a very wet Southampton in probably 1959 when I was 13 ! I`ve not heard the term since, until now.👍 Have a good day.

Hi at 70 years old not the fastest driver around but do keep up 60 to 65 the car was 2 up with luggage

yes my boot would not open...to-day off to the beach again but with battery pack on board if i should need it which i wont after the advice from here ...regards leaving motor in ready mode ......thanks all for the great help much appreciated ..martin

From when this occurs the car ran some highway trips, now it is 3000kms later. The car runs great, no rough idle no noise in high speeds or vibrations. I will wait till the next oil change I plan before winter. Will see how it does after that - in the mean time I will search for some mechanic ✌️

I would give it some more time, maybe it will disappear over time, since you said the car has been running diesel oil. Those plugs look really good, considering the mileage, but then again, they are rated for 60k miles. Since you mentioned that when cold, it works fine, trying a bit thicker oil, 5W30, might remedy the issue. As for a decent mechanic, i had the same issue as you, found mine by checking reviews on google maps, and the guy was quite good and honest, maybe a bit lacking in social skills tho. When people are angry, they tend to write bad reviews, so a shop having like 4.5* must not be that bad.

If it is like an Avensis it only comes on when lights (other than your DRLs) are lit - either manually selected or brought on by falling light levels with the switch in Auto. Your DRLs only can be on with no indication on the dash.

If you're talking about the 'lights on' warning light in the instrument panel, as far as I'm aware the warning light doesn't illuminate when the light switch is on auto. On auto, the headlights work on a light sensor and will come on when the level of light outside reduces, and will turn off when the outside light level increases.

If you have the X-Touch sat nav module installed, there will be a small sliding hatch in the left side of the glove box, and the SD card slot will be behind the hatch.

Was driving our Toyota engined Peugeot 108 today and that is doing over 50 mpg, to be fair it always been over 50 mpg when I be bothered to check in the 4 years we owned it and that's doing mainly local town driving. Personally I never been that over fussed with mpg, other factors like reliability, road tax, insurance, servicing costs more important for me and on all those points both our 107 and 108 been spot on.

Hi Thanks for confirmation of the droplink, i was getting rear discs and pads done today so i included changing both droplinks as per attached pics and video. Got everything done all inclusive of parts and labour for £190.00. Thanks Victor C VID_20210825_162937.mp4

I would like to share my mpg figures with the forum as I keep a record of all tank to tank fill ups that I have done over the first 6000 miles from new. Firstly I keep the vehicle setting in normal mode all the time. I have never used eco or sport mode. I drive it like I would a standard gear shift vehicle. Not really trying for maximum economy or booting it either. A lot of short 20 mile and 50 mile runs mainly. Have not done a big trip yet and no long motorway driving so far. Just some background on the following numbers Total Average over 6000 miles = 57.28 mpg. Best mpg is 65.59. Worst mpg is 41.15. These numbers are better than my previous Auris 1.8 TS Excel by the way. Obviously the 1.8 Corolla will make mincemeat of my mpg's but I am well pleased so far.

sorry to hear that, I've had two automatic aygos now (mk2s) and never had any problems. That sounds like a major manufacturing failure and needs to be investigated. It should be done under warranty as mentioned above.

The headlamp is held by 3 bolts, 2 on the top and one from the side behind the bumper i will pm you

My reply has since been edited.

For the indicated short between 2 pins in the OBD2 contact , atleast on Toyota RAV4 2003 some bluetoth ODB2 adapters shorts these. Did some troubleshooting on why my ABS light started to flash and it took a while before i found a similar post as this one explaining that i have entered a diagnostic mode ( by mistake ).