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There is another consideration. Automotive batteries are designed to be kept topped up, which matches an ICE car, but not a hybrid or EV with software-managed charging. It could be that a deep-discharge (i.e. recreational/camping) battery would be a better match, but the challenge would be to find one of the right shape and size. Another possibility is a lithium-ion battery, which self-discharges at only 2% per month. Of course, these batteries are more expensive.

If you used the Recondition facility of the charger, it may have removed a fair amount of sulphation on the battery plates, which should cause an improvement. I don't use my old RAV4 much, so it gets a reconditioning charge about every 6 weeks. I use a battery condition meter to see the results, and with successive charges, the SOH (State of Health) has improved from about 60% (50% is reckoned to be the Replace point) to 94%, so it seems to work. EDIT: Submarines recondition their batteries before each patrol - they call it a "gassing" charge, so it isn't just marketing blether.

I think hell will freeze over before increasing the ethanol content will lead to a price cut 🥶

Re Prius looks. At one time I hated it’s looks, particularly gen1 and2. Gen3 was a bit better in my eyes. But they say beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. I got to like the looks of the Gen3, so bought a second hand one, 9 years old, 105k miles, loved it and 6 months later bought the Gen4 when it was 20 months old. I love it’s looks, love everything about it really, every drive is just wonderful, and this is 3 years on now.

It's not paranoia. The car was fine when new during the first lockdown and started perfectly normally after virtually no driving for 4 months. Only after its first flat occurrence and an AA call-out did I start to learn the differences. After the second flat I got advice on this forum; neither Toyota nor my garage 'reached out' to me. After the third occurrence I got a new battery. As I said before, my garage installed a 52ah in lieu of the defective 45ah original. My usage has increased and I have not had to resort to the charger.

Arrr, they don't make them like they used to. The market for automotive lead/acid batteries demands a low price, so they scrimp on materials. I think we should continue to complain about this problem, to encourage the car makers to modify their hybrid and EV auxiliary charging software, which would help maintain the auxiliary battery in better condition. Whereas a "pure" ICE car charges the battery whenever the engine runs, the hybrid and EV models seem to only charge at widely separated intervals (probably to improve mpg or range). I think this promotes battery plate sulphation, which accounts for the problem. Until that happens, our only recourse is the CTEK. Anecdote: 18 months ago, I bought a two year old KIA Soul EV, and, within weeks, I had a flat auxiliary battery, with SOH only 56%, so I replaced it (it was the KIA original) but kept it in the garage, and occasionally gave it a reconditioning charge. The SOH has recovered to about 80%, so I'm pretty certain the battery was not the problem, but the charging regime was.

Android 11, nothing.

A warning about the camera in the gantry that you are approaching.

See my thread on Ping-demic.............. 😀

OK, I know it's Wednesday :-) Anyway, after last weeks poor showing from Toyota, I went to a different dealer today. What a total difference, this is the way dealers should be. I'd seen a CHR 2.0 Design for sale, with delivery mileage, so I rang them up, and unfortunately, it had just been sold. However, they had an identical one which they are using as a demo ( Jul 21). After a bit of a chat, the deal was done, and I collect her at the end of the month. They are even leaving a top notch dash cam in, and giving me a full tank of fuel. I look forward to getting to know you boys and girls over the coming months. Mal

https://www.forbes.com/sites/peterlyon/2021/08/29/toyota-to-launch-hydrogen-powered-prius-and-corolla-in-2023/?sh=3e6b0d0a2fa1

Hi all Totyota have said that the new E10 fuel shouldn't be used in the follwing: Avensis 2.0 litre with engine 1AZ-FSE made between July 2000 and October 2008. Avensis 2.4 litre with engine 2AZ-FSE made between June 2003 and October 2008. My question is - my 2.4 2004 avensis engine number starts with 2AZ and then a string of numbers, how do I know if its the FSE? According to wikipedia there is the FSE, FE, and FXE? Thanks

Now you've got to wait for PDI and an actual collection date...that's where I am right now, hoping for next week!

I've always given mine a couple of successive tanks of super unleaded each year. Since covid, my annual mileage has dropped to around 2-3K. I don't fancy E10 sitting in my tank unused for that long, so unless I'm doing a long journey, I'll keep using super unleaded all the time.

That's all PHEV stuff, so your problem rather than mine! 😆 (... but since you are paying extra for the service, I suspect that is also going via the ECall SIM )

My local petrol pumps have had E10 stickers on them since July!! I never did find out conclusively whether they were actually dispensing E10 or not at the time tho'...

The 2.0 engines are part of the dynamic force range, which has only been out for about 3 years and is therefore relatively unproven compared to the 1.8 units. They also make use of modern innovations to try and squeeze every last drop of efficiency out, e.g a variable displacement oil pump and a very aggressive VVT system that relies on a small motor to achieve a higher range of adjustment than what is possible with traditional solenoids. I suspect the heart of the engine will last just fine, but some of these ancillary components could give up the ghost at really high miles. Speaking about the Corolla in particular, it's a shame that they've paired the newer engine technology with the old style battery (NimH). It's a higher capacity battery than the lithium one that the 1.8 gets, but lithium can charge & discharge more rapidly, meaning there's potentially better hybrid system efficiency and, of course, a significant weight saving. I can't help but think the economy difference would have been much narrower had they managed to stretch to a lithium battery for both engine sizes.

Prior to today the tanks used for E10 would have had E5 in, and when supplies of E10 are delivered, the E10 will go into the tanks which previously had E5. So for a while there will be a mixture of E5 and E10 in the tanks.

just filled up with E10, will see if any noticeable difference!

if it is like my older version of T2G the internet connection from your phone can be used to provide more current traffic information than the DAB Traffic Information service (although iirc in mine I use bluetooth rather than wifi). At least on mine there are very few "connected services" that you would actually want (several went away when some e.g. Google changed their licence terms).

Same with Ford. If you want connected services like real time traffic or car location you have to let the car talk back to Ford about your journeys.

That's an interesting question and one that has puzzled me from time to time. I believe that: The MyT app reports Trip data via the built in SIM and the ECall system - see here: Data shared with, send to, and over the air updates of the multimedia system are communicated via WiFi and the Internet - the driver must provide the Internet connection either via mobile tethering, a home network or any other available WiFi service. You can also opt to receive traffic updates over the Internet and again you must provide the Internet service to do this. See: HOW DOES MYT WORK? So, Toyota 'spies' on us on their dollar and we have little or no say about that. Optional services that we want are carried over an Internet connection we provide - no Internet = no service. I think ... 😉

You can't. Supposedly from today (1st Sept) new supplies will be E10, but if there is E5 remaining in the fuel company's tanks, which is likely, it will take a few tank replenishments before the fuel supplied is actually just E10. Same with your car's petrol tank.

Not sure how scientific that is? Rog..

I think a tank of v-power is good once in a while for its cleaning properties, but on an Atkinson cycle naturally aspirated engine there is little to be gained in terms of performance or efficiency from using it - at least that was my view when comparing E5 vs E5. ive used pumps branded as E10 over the last couple of weeks and noticed no reduction in performance or fuel economy - assuming they have had E10 in them (there isn’t really any way of knowing). I’ll try v-power in the next few months just for the cleaning additives, but will see if anything else improves with it

So I put the vin number in from the order before I got the car too. When I got it I added the multimedia, connected the car to the wireless and updated the map. I couldn't get connected services to activate until the next day but it was weird. I tried several times but nothing so I gave up. Then I got an email saying my car had been added to another account but in the myt app my registration appeared and connected services worked. It might have been because I verified the car. Search for a thread on here about verifying without the v5. On the passenger door pillar is the code you need. Oh and you will love the car. The more I drive it the more I like it.

You can't do it all until you have the car and the details. You can get the verification number off a panel in the passenger door pillar, you don't need the v5 I found the full functionality of myt both in the app and online took a couple of days to appear after I had got the car.

It depends on the application if the engineers specify something 9/10 times the paper pushers will save money so say a car requires 250 ft lb spec gearbox, and the engineers say it need to be 300-350 ft lb to have longevity, the accountant comes along, nope you can have this one as it's X amount cheaper and made of chinesium

More you drive - longer they lasts, you just need to be a sensible driver and not trashed them, regular services and relaxed drive pretty much all cars will go that far, some easier and cheaper than others., Toyota hybrids are good choice for that purpose and that’s why they are popular within taxi trade around the world. 🚗👍

yes, over the years I have read of a few on Avensis but they usually get to 150,000 miles when they tend to get replaced rather than fixed. Basically the transmission was designed to last the average life of the car with minimal intervention (just checks on fluid level).

If they just put one in twice the size it probably wouldn't break the bank or make any difference to volume.

Brilliant thanks. I guess if the rear caliper pistons retract nicely with just the reservoir cap off I won't need to bleed. But great info.... Thanks so much

It was more that the centre console was really high so it was too much like a cocoon for me. But my sister in law loves it so I guess it's a personal preference. The boot is bigger in the RAV as the roofline doesn't slope down as much

I did wonder how a battery could be rescued, I thought the chemical changes were irreversible. Interesting, cheers. What I meant was it's worth keeping an eye on things but not worrying about it day and night. I can catastrophise with the best of them but I have Toyota breakdown so do I want to buy an expensive booster or be checking my battery every week? Or do I just want to ring them? You don't hear large-scale reports of the millions of hybrid owners out there having issues.

My thoughts were along similar lines (although not as qualified as yours Ian!), especially when I charged/topped-up the battery three times with the car in 'READY' mode before getting the CTEK trickle charger. Each time the battery would appear fine then revert to its old ways of losing voltage - but it hasn't happened after the CTEK charge (yet!). 🙄

...my thoughts exactly - if the 12v auxiliary batteries in hybrids really are now so lackadaisical as to needing such tender care... Or whether owner-paranoia has a large part to play 🙄 ...although the voltage figures I was getting on my battery seemed to indicate something tangible is/was going on rather than pure paranoia 😉

Plenty of Android apps have long press options, but none on my phone for the MyT app (Android 11). The lack of functionality on the app, for self-charge hybrid users, is extremely disappointing.

Yes, I have found some. If I long press on my DuckDuck browser app I get shortcuts. Same with Spotify Gmail eBay, but nothing on MyT yet. Never knew they could do that. It will be interesting if you put a brand new car in and get it, as the forum posts you show talk about removing and readding the car.

Rav4World forum. Long press on Apple and Android. People saying it provides options like lock or unlock that aren't available options inside the App itself. I've seen this in other Apps of mine. Not a new thing. Most of my apps support it. Not set MyT up yet so don't know for this as yet. Will know by weekend. Could be we have a different software version to North America so the long press options are disabled?

It's not paranoia if they (the gremlins) are really out to get you

And forums like this of course. Like many, Haynes have had to adapt to a new environment. It is a bit sad - I had many Haynes manuals over the decades, but these days I don't generally get dirtier than checking the air and liquids. My mountain bike is nearly as complex and maintenance heavy (and expensive) as my cars from the 20th century 🤑

A small tip for everyone and is a habit I've gotten into because of car theft around here: when you are in the house, make sure that both of your keys are on standby (a sort of sleep mode) so that they can't be cloned from outside your house. How to do this? After locking the car, click and hold down the lock button whilst you double click the unlock button at the same time. They key's LED will respond with 4 flashes in two pairs of two and then go out and stop flashing. Your key now cannot be cloned! You're welcome! 🙂 (to "wake up" your key fob, just press either button)

That all sounds pretty good, although I am surprised that the low battery could drag the 14.2V down to 13.7. That could just be a high resistance connection somewhere in the wiring, rather than a fault in the converter. I'd be interested to hear whether it will keep things up to the mark in the future, or whether you will have to bring out the trickle charger again.

Think it warns for speed cameras. Got similar beeps in my Prius PHV 2018

A few years ago there was even someone who turned onto a railway track - because their sat nav told them to 😜 There's no level of stupidity which some people (nobody on here) can show.

You need to swap the ignition & non-ignition wires over - usually the red and yellow ones. Most aftermarket radios have bullet connectors in those wires to make the swapover easy.

I already know that that’s why are use as a esso supreme

the thing to be concerned about is that your engine is not compatible with the E10 fuel that is about to replace regular E5. https://mag.toyota.co.uk/e10-petrol-what-is-it-and-can-i-use-it/

Hi High mileages are possible

You don't mean proper features like being able to see if I remembered to lock the car without having to walk halfway back to see if the mirrors have folded in ?