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Same here although to be honest I don't really think about it. I typically fill up at my local Tesco more out of habit than anything else. I don't even look at the price since in my experience it's only a couple of pence difference per litre anyway although with Tesco I will earn points for my purchase. But I've always taken the view that you fill 'er up, you burn it and the car moves. To me there's normally(*) no need to make it any more complicated than that 🙂 (*)With the rare significant change like introduction of unleaded or increased ethanol.

Andrue, after I got these I told the dealer they were nonsense. My car has just been serviced in March when they tried to get me to pay for a spring health check. I asked them what they would do that they had neglected to do in the Service. I also asked why they were trying to sell me a new car having just sold me a new car. Message received and not a peep since.

Yup, sometimes you think Toyota push their luck a bit with most owners accepting a very low bar in exchange for their legendary reliability and robustness. However, it shouldn't have to be that way. Just think of the success they could achieve with offering (and including) features that even Fiesta owners take for granted.............

Just marketing drivel. It's one aspect of owning a Toyota that annoys me. I've reported my dealer and Toyota Financial Services to the ICO because they keep sending me letters and texts despite me asking them to stop. The dealer even has the cheek to call periodically claiming that it's a 'financial health check'. It's disgusting how quickly they move the conversation from asking if I can still meet the payments (which has nothing to do with them anyway) to trying to push a new car and loan onto me. It's put me off ever buying a new car through any Steven Eagell dealership again. They even used Covid as a justification for being worried about 'their customers' financial situations. I detest all forms of advertising and marketing with a passion. I read The Space Merchants when I was a child and it's stuck with me ever since.

Yeah, my view is they need to have subsidised/free chargers at every single car parking space, esp. at gyms, shopping centres, anywhere where people will be parked for a significant amount of time; That's the only way to get around the current "Home charging is essential" problem. Fast chargers should only be for occasional use, e.g. on a road trip where you'd have to take a short rest stop anyway - The more you fast charge an EV, esp. at these 100's of amps levels, the shorter the battery's lifespan will be. For me the lynchpin is the battery - We either need a huge breakthrough in battery tech, or discover a new way of storing lighting in a bottle (Or Mr Fusion! ). I'm not optimistic, as Lithium ion charge capacity has barely changed since it was invented. The Mk4's battery is tiny but I already feel how much heavier the car is compared to my previous Mk2 and especially my old Mk1 D4D (Ironic that the diesel was lighter than the petrol and the hybrid! ). Given that an EV needs a battery with 80-100 times the capacity of the Mk4's to be worthwhile to me, I just can't see how a vehicle I consider suitable will exist within the next 10 years. They keep touting that EVs are getting longer and longer range but this is a fallacy - They're just getting BIGGER; Every EV with more than 200 miles of real range (i.e. not things like the Zoe and its 235-miles-but-actually-130) is a giant landboat, as this is the only way to fit enough cells on, but the problem is I don't want a giant landboat...

Perhaps the air temperature, last year was better weather through out the whole of the summer, higher average temperatures. Wind, rain and low temperatures affects the hybrids as twice as much in comparison with standard ice cars since those are affecting not only the engine but the battery too. 👍

Similar picture here - average MPG this year not as good as last year. This year, it's not got past 62.8 where last year it was 65+ on average. Hard to put a finger on the reason as my driving isn't that much different. I work from home 100% and have been doing so for well over a decade so the pandemic this year hasn't changed my driving behaviour other than driving less than I did before and mostly on shorter trips overall. I tend to pay more attention to MPG and other metrics for individual trips. With many of those, I'm frequently seeing MPG figures beyond 75 MPG with matching high figures for battery power instead of engine. Even on motorway cruises, most trips are in the high 60s. On one recent trip I was in a huge jam on the M25, stop/start driving, for about an hour. That helped get the MPG figure for that trip into the low 70s. E10 isn't a factor at all as I've always used 99-octane fuel, nearly always Shell V-Power. Topping up with Shell E10 since the beginning of September, giving it a whirl, but not seeing any difference at all yet.

It's the centre heater vent, and it connected to the main duct - constant flow means you have the recirc set to fresh air the centre vent will be the path of least resistance pic for reference https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/toyota/aygo-38483/kgb40-56115/kgb40r-agmgkw-919810/heating-air-conditioning-control-air-duct-17856862?nid=10333226#g17856862/heating-amp-air-conditioning-control-amp-air-duct/il-413570439-10333226-10333226 manual A/C or Climate ? https://d24bc9lyrt5en5.cloudfront.net/Customer-Portal-Admin/emanuals/TOYOTA/OM99U33E.pdf TBH it's just a case of setting up the airflow mode (mode 4 - feet and screen) If you still have an issue, take it to the dealers as it may have a blend door / motor problem

It's certainly more challenging in places like the Norfolk coast, where I live. Back in 2012 I bought a Gen 3 Prius, my 6th Prius, and I thought this would be my last petrol-consuming car (and possibly my last car depending on how long my health holds up sufficiently to retain my driving licence). I had previously hoped to buy a Plug-in Prius when it was launched in 2012, despite it's low EV range, but the lack of a spare wheel and little space for one scuppered that. I test drove a BMW i3 with range extender in 2014, but the spare wheel thing did it again, plus having got used to a Head Up Display in the Prius it was something I never wanted to be without again. When the Gen 4 Prius was announced, the raft of safety features and general improvements made it very appealing, but I still hoped to go EV. I priced up a Tesla Model S, and after a government grant of £5k it still came to nearly £80k including a £4k battery upgrade, all wheel drive and one or two other extras. It had a claimed potential range of just over 300 miles, well ample for my use for all but about 20 days a year. But it was those 20 days that made it a non starter, at least living where I do. Also, I eventually ruled it out because of a few missing features I regard as must-haves. At that time there wasn't a single Tesla Supercharger station this side of the A1 (only one last time I looked), and one of my periodic trips to Hull was over 350 miles return plus some local driving (easily done on one tank in the Prius). The Tesla web site was quite helpful; you could select IIRC the spec of car, air temperature, climate control temperature, cruising speed etc. and it would calculate the estimated range given those conditions. The 300+ range quickly dived towards 200. It would also estimate charge times given the spec of the car and the changing station used. Since using all available site like ZapMap and various hotel searches came up with precisely zero suitable options, my enthusiasm for an EV started to seriously wane! In the worst case, if I could only find a hotel that would somehow allow me to plug into a standard wall socket, worst case was a recharge time of nearly 30 hours! Occasionally, I did the whole trip in a day - that would be really challenging! For a while, on each of the long trips I did I tried to simulate an EV journey and look for charging opportunities on the route. A regular 250-300 mile round trip to Bedfordshire & Hertfordshire (always in a day) for a while only had quite modest charging speeds at a couple of Little Chefs, which have now disappeared along with their charging points. By the time I stopped looking it was still challenging to find a route with reliable access to sufficient charging facilities. The final issue is that the various legs of the Bedfordshire journeys add up to some 6-7 hours of driving in a very long day, so a couple of extra 20-40 minute charge stops would be rather unwelcome. The London based Private Hire firm I worked for from their inception in 2006 until I retired now has over 50 Mirai Hydrogen cars and access to a number of fuelling sites that manufacture Hydrogen on-site using electrolysis. Now, I'm not prepared to predict whether Hydrogen will gain favour, but simply observe that when the Prius (and Honda Insight) Hybrids were launched in 1997 the majority of the motoring world poured scorn on the idea and many major manufacturers hinted they would never follow suit. Wind forward 24 years, and...

EV will not work anywhere in remote areas, UK included. However I do agree that electric propulsion is by far the best solution for transport of any kind. I love drivi g my PHEV in EV mode. However It is generation and supply/storage that is the big problem and we are nowhere near solving it.

Before the days of electric vehicles, the US Army researched storage of hydrogen in vehicles to power IC engines. They developed a spongelike material which adsorbed hydrogen under mild pressure, and released it when the pressure was reduced in controllable fashion. The tank did not explode when penetrated by bullets, just released the gas through the hole. That technology would be very suitable for hydrogen fuel cell vehicles, and I'm sure it is receiving attention. The concept of a fuel cell/battery EV or PHEV is very attractive, and particularly so for trucks. The characteristics of the fuel cell are to impose delay on ramping up and down output, and that is ideally addressed by the battery delivering power on start-up and acceleration, and storing it on deceleration and shut-down.

2 hours ago, preperationlaunch said: "Vehicle connector terminal 16 is designated Unswitched Vehicle Battery Positive and must be implemented in the vehicle connector. This terminal must be connected directly (i.e., unswitched) to the DC Positive of the vehicle's battery. This connection does not preclude the use of a fuse or other circuit protection elements. This circuit may be grouped with other similar circuits. This terminal must be able to supply a minimum of 4.0 A." Bingo! (...and thank you! I can stop beating my head against a wall now! 🤣)

OBD2 is also designed to be able to power scan tools that use it, hence battery voltage on pin 16. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics The current specification for the connector can be found in SAE J1962, which is the American standard, and equivalent to the ISO standard used elsewhere for OBD2. See the excerpt below. From the ISO standard document here: https://www.obdiicable.com/download/ISO 15031-3-2004.pdf

Hi all.....Sure this is a well worn topic. Further fueled by a friend asking me why I have chosen a PHEV over an EV. Stop to refuel, stop to plug in & charge what's the difference ? Stock reply, my badge of choice Toyota don't offer an EV. When they do I'll take a look. His take on this was that the window for PHEV's is 5 years max. Once the public charging network has caught up & EV's become cheaper, PHEV's will have had their day. He has a point but what about the thousands of tuggers ? How do EV's fair towing a caravan, a boat, a trailer etc. no small demand ? Seems the PHEV & particularly the RAV 4 could well have its day IMO. Barry Wright Lancashire.

Clearly a better dealer than mine.

It’s real Nick, NO kick sensor. I know we have covered this before but what’s frustrating is that other models in the Toyota line up have some of the features not included in the PHEV.

Could spend ages on that site - very interesting. Thanks.

mine has the camera icons there although dont think ive went past one yet for it to trigger! what really annoys me is how I can't connect apple car play without Siri working - which my work have disabled so im working with Toyota sat nav so my work phone can connect and when im out and about at nights or weekends I plug in my Samsung and use google maps and my amazon unlimited.

Whenever the car 'tramlines', 99% of the time it's the LTA, which turns on every time you start the car. A lot of people dislike it and always hold down the button for 5 seconds to disable it, but as I am constantly (ab)using the cruise control and steer assist I just put up with it! So what were the issues exactly? The descriptions don't really help me! I've not had to use the Ecall yet (And god willing never will!!) and I've never gotten it to skid either (The TCS and ESP work really well in this car! )

I used to have a massaging seat in the last car. How do I enable that? Is that an option in the MID or more of an infotainment thing? I can only assume my car is just not that interested in me. Like my wife.

But it doesn’t answer Where will all that electricity come from and how the occupant on floor 39 of a tower block built 20 years ago charges their car? So which manufacturers are you talking about? Let’s wait and see.

I do a lot of deep tech analysis. Electric motors set to increase power density by a factor of 3 in the next ten years. Battery tech specific energy set to increase by a factor of 3 in the next ten to twelve years. Nothing weird or at the fringe of science required here. 90 percent probable. Basically, your EV in 10 years will weigh significantly less than today, have significantly more hp and torque, and 600 to 700 mile winter motorway range will be common. All with dual, triple, or quad motor (note that Rivian R1T R1S are quad motor). And they'll cost less. About 20 to 25pc less by my maths. No need for an ICE or PHEV in any circumstances. But that's by 10 or 12 years. Next 5 years there will still be a choice for most people to make but the PHEVs will be marginalised by that point. I'll be going full EV in 3 years depending on winter range at 70 to 75mph if I don't buy the company car then and only to keep it for perhaps another 2 years then swap to an even better EV option than is available 3 years from now. Inevitable.

Just to confirm, that it was the 3 way jet part that was knackered again. Let's see how long this non Toyota cheap one lasts. I also got the black plastic grommets from eBay, not identical to the existing Toyota ones, but they do they job. Thanks

Indeed, and as Scott has said, you may not have to go through the reset procedure as long as you monitor your summer tyres pressures during the winter period. After a short drive, the system will realise you have them back on again (they use Bluetooth to connect). As Scott has also pointed out (and it is relevant now that you have a 2021 Yaris that displays the wheels/pressures) I also have marked wheel covers so that the tyres/wheels go back on exactly the same way. Another way is to use a black felt tip pen on the inside of the wheel somewhere and put "FR", "FL", "RR" & "RL" so that you don't forget...

Correct answer is ‘a’ only the Auris its a hybrid. 👍

I have smart ventilation in the RAV, it's set off the climate settings on the touchscreen. It's supposed to use the seat sensors to intelligently send air to the appropriate vents

Turns out it was a fuse. Specifically ecu 2 fuse which was in the passenger footwell. Then codes cleared. All is good

actually this is what mine is doing sorry. Passenger side closes just before the driver side. At least I know its not a result of the prang ! thank you for checking this for me !!!

The only issue i've had was the 2 days after picking up my car the trips didn't appear and then after the missing trips where eventually added. I can't say i've had a situation with my previous car with stuff not pulling through, doesn't mean to say it won't happen to me in the future tho!

I'm a mere 5' 11" but I can't say I've noticed the air coming out this vent even though I have definitely heard the radio cooling fan running - you must have very sensitive skin?

The PHEV Rav 4 would have been my preferred choice, but the extra purchase cost was sufficient to persuade me that the ordinary Hybrid would suffice. This despite knowing that the pure electric element would have covered near 100% of our driving needs "for free". But the upfront savings will pay for a LOT of petrol. N.B. Pure electric ruled out due to some towing requirements. mth

Progress of technology is a journey, it starts in one or two particular niches where it fits well then progresses outwards as the technology develops and costs fall, BEVs are just the same, it's still early days, they are competitive for certain uses but not all as yet. Look at HEVs, Prius launched in 1997, RAV4 was already being made at that point but it wasn't until almost 20 years later that the RAV4 HEV was introduced. It took that long until hybrid technology was competitive for that size and class of vehicle. As big heavy vehicles with high energy storage requirements, meaning lots of expensive battery capacity, I'd expect RAV4 vehicles and others in that class will be some of the last to go full electric, staying with HEV/PHEV until later because of the high cost of batteries.

If rear seats are not used by passengers frequently why not keep all three seats in the fastened position, just like a lot of times when the car has come out from a MOT test.

Maybe your car's got a screw loose! *badum tissss* ... Okay okay I'm going...!

Awesome. Ordering. Here's the PIR light. I just stuck velcro hot tape on the back. Slapped it on the back seat. Very bright. Missun Motion Sensor Light... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08V1KZDFN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Ask someone to sit to the passenger seat and press alternately every single thing (air vent, speaker grills etc.) on dashboard wich could make that rattle. This is how I found my rattling air vent on dash. Oh, and those interior rattle sounds can be little tricky that You think You know 100% sure wich area rattle comes from and after all because a sound reflection it can be whole different place. It is easy to check if You think that the problem is under speaker grill on dash, all You need is a credit card (or similar, there is a risk to break credit card)

Yes, loved that - especially "you have reached your destination but I'm not going to carry your bags!"

Go for it - start as many threads as you like 😂😂😂

My commute home was missed this afternoon, might be issues with the server or down for maintenance etc. Missed trips usually appear a day or so later

It's a range / 'recharge' speed question for me. The PHEV / HEV has a range of around 500 miles. When that's exhausted you pull in and fill up - another 500 miles in, say, 10 minutes or a 'recharge' rate of 3,000 mph. A good EV available today - an eNiro for example - has a range of 230 miles and a recharge rate of 220 mph (from a fast charger assuming that you can find one). If you need another 200 miles range you'll need to stop for a leisurely lunch. This recharge 'delay' is the real 'crimp' for many in switching to an EV. The next generation of EVs - an EV6 say - has a range of 255 miles and a recharge rate of 590 mph (again from a fast charger assuming that you can find one). Now if you need another 200 miles range all you need to do is stop for a coffee (and I need a coffee every 200 miles anyway). So, once the next generation of EVs is affordable, and the recharging infrastructure is in place and as readily available as petrol filling stations are today, I'll be in an EV. Until then, hybrids are us ... There's still quite an issue for folk who don't have the facilities to recharge an EV at 'home'.

86140-YV020 is the Triple play aka CarPlay/Android Auto unit

The results of my tests are as such; I’ve used nothing but the cheapest supermarket fuel I can get my hands on for as long as I can remember, probably since the supermarkets started to dominate the fuel market and, I can honestly say that I’ve not seen any deterioration in performance, economy, or reliability.

Welcome to the steering knock club. Knocking happens on the splines of u-joint, down in the foot well. Just turn the wheel around until you see the bolt. Doubt it will fix the issue, you need to undo the bolt, take the splines apart, clean, and apply fresh lithium grease.

I occasionally want to switch it to recirculate for a while but I've never had a problem with the buttons. For the most part I just leave it at 19.5c and let it do its job. That is, after all, the whole point of climate control.

I use Esso, BP or Shell - I think their formulations are worth the premium. Having said that, I view my car purchases as keepers - if you follow the modern trend and lease for 2 or 3 years then perhaps it doesn't matter so much. Trouble is, every time I think I have a keeper I change it within 2 or 3 years - duh (circumstances dear boy - OK I like young cars). I was quite happy to keep my current RAV until the price drop on the PHEV happened - I am easily swayed it seems. However, in the main I use Esso. I have a fuel card from Fuelpecker (anyone can get one) and it is used like a charge card. You are debited 2 or 3 days later. The real bonus being that you save 3p per litre on Esso fuel stations prices for their standard unleaded fuel and more for Supreme. After all every little helps - oops I don't use theirs. These are the discounts that apply........... Discount at Esso sites Discount Fuel type 3p Synergy unleaded 4p Synergy diesel 5p Synergy supreme + unleaded 6p Synergy supreme + diesel Discount at all Shell sites Discount Fuel type 1p FuelSave Unleaded 1p FuelSave Diesel 1p V-Power Unleaded 1p V-Power Diesel

I ordered the clips, they came today. I disconnected the rubber pipes from three way water jet hose valve (part number 85321-28020, in photo number three) and the water shoots out the passenger side end of the valve and just trickles out of the driver side. Tried blowing through the valve, steeped it in hot soapy water, in case it was blocked, but has made no difference. This valve was a original toyota part, costing around £15 at the time and at todays price at Toyota, its about £18. Its less that two years old, so not happy with the longevity of this original Toyota part and I'm not prepared to shell out £18 again, so I'm taking a punt on one off ebay for £4.50. Let's see how this one works.

I think that's fair Philip. I'd even suggest higher losses. I think there are two calcs I'm interested in. One about how much money it costs me per mile in petrol vs electricity from my 7.4kW wall box. The other is about the environment, which is very hard. It's pretty hard for EVs too. Got to consider whole life from cradle to grave and not just where the leccy came from (coal, gas, nuke, solar, wind, hydro).

HI Andy,you say you removed the horn,there are two in the iq3 ,one is in the left engine compartement which is the key warning sounder and the main horn is behind the front bumper on the right side,The easiest way to check the main horn is to poke a test probe into the horn cable from the front to see if there is voltage. Hope this helps.

When considering moving to the RAV4 I had concerns regarding the CVT - there are many types. I was relieved (and heartened) to see it used an epicyclic type CVT (the most robust type given the use of suitably robust materials - which it does). I had previously fallen foul of Nissan's weedy 'belt type' transmission but of course that wouldn't suit such a heavy vehicle as the RAV4. I have had experience of Audi/VW group DSG transmissions - another kettle of fish. And whilst they were a pleasure in use they had significant reliability issues (and multiple types - dry clutch/wet clutch). And the worst part of the Audi/VW set up being the Haldex rear drive. Numerous failures of rear drive traced to blocked filters and users only realising (too late) they have been driving around in 2wd mode for ages not knowing their rear drive failed! Not only is the filter not a serviced item with Audi/VW group - they even deny its existence! 🙂

You are welcome. I was sceptical about Toyota hybrids when I first tried their cars with Prius gen 2 and Lexus gs450h back in 2007,although I liked how they drives I had no information about their system and how do they work. Then in 2012 I had a driving job with Prius gen 3, then Prius plus and after driving those for few thousand miles I was fully converted ever since. Now I am driving an old Auris hybrid from 2010, I do quite a bit of miles ever week and so far the car is excellent in all aspects., efficiency, drivability and reliability, plus it’s easy to maintain since I do most of the work by myself. So yes, if a friend or family member ask me what car should I buy now I can easily recommend two best options as long term money well spent: 1. Buy Toyota/Lexus hybrid, any model you like 2. Buy an electric car- any make and model you like the third one is just buy the cheapest and simplest small hatchback with petrol engine and manual transmission. 👍 Happy driving everyone 🚗👌