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https://www.derbytelegraph.co.uk/news/local-news/couples-toyota-yaris-flips-over-5956514 Was it you ?

I got a new job. Daily drive is 65 km each way, 45 km. is motorway going east/west. I was nervous, that my MPG would suffer, but that doesn't seem to be a issue. It's possible to get 57 MPG in average with speed not higher than 115 kmh/71 mph. I do overtake 2-3 times each way, speeds do get higher for at short period, up to 80 mph, and then back on cruise control. I'm pleased with the result, not bad for a petrol powered Touring Sport. Tyres are stock 205/55R16.

A substantial amount of stolen catalytic converters found in Lincolnshire police raid: https://thelincolnite.co.uk/2021/09/bitcoin-machine-cash-and-tonnes-of-catalytic-converters-found-in-long-sutton-raid/

If I am typical then I defend myself by saying that the difference in economy at an average 65 and an average 70mph is marginal. But the difference in driving is immense. I find that there are few occasions on motorways when a relaxed cruise is possible and, being a police-taught defensive driver, I vary my speed according to the needs of the traffic and other conditions. This often ,means going at 70 or even a little more, to break out of clusters where in most cases people are travelling too close together, lorries are bunched in the slower lanes and forward visibility is limited. I count the pennies, but I put safety first as I'm sure you do, too. A principal reason for choosing motorhomes over caravans (I owned several of both) was the restriction on lane 3/4 and the 60mph limit. Far too often I'd be stuck for miles behind a driver doing 50 - 55 who never looked in their mirror and refused to move over. (And, yes, with a properly set up rig a car and caravan are quite safe at 60!) Although I rarely did 70 in a motorhome in the UK, abroad was a different question....and economy lost out to the need to cover long distances as quickly as possible. Finally I should add that having driven the C-HR Excel Hybrid for five months I think its speed and economy are outstanding.

Toyota hybrids are very relaxing to drive on motorways and also efficient all you need to drive within certain speeds which seems slow for many people. 60-65mph its an efficient cruising speed that blends with most of the traffic flow, and yes lorries are the one who usually push a lot many drivers to drive faster, the thing is that there are cars that can do 90-100mph cruise speed and deliver same or even better fuel consumption than Toyota hybrids and here it comes the negative comments and these are mostly from auto journalists, who only have driven them for a short time and often knows nothing about the cars they are talking about or people who expect golf R performance from Corolla hybrid.

I does amuse me the number of times I read comments about Hybrids not having any benefits when cruising at motorway speeds. I've just not found that to be true. OK, maybe if you're constantly thrashing the car, but I've found the smooth, quiet drive makes me a more chilled driver. When I had a Gen 1 Prius for some time I commuted 40 miles each way across country with low traffic and calculated tank averages stayed at about 55 mpg. Later I charged jobs and went a similar distance but much of it on the M1. MPG stayed the same. I think because the system is optimised to share the propulsion from the engine and motor, and the engine is set up on the basis it gets help when needed and doesn't have to have as much power and a comparable car with only the petrol engine it still has its advantages. Add to that the battery/motor helping some of the time and recouping energy every time you lift off the throttle.

Sounds to me that with all functions operating normally, it could be pregnant with a baby Lexus! 🤣🤣

Indeed, and as Scott has said, you may not have to go through the reset procedure as long as you monitor your summer tyres pressures during the winter period. After a short drive, the system will realise you have them back on again (they use Bluetooth to connect). As Scott has also pointed out (and it is relevant now that you have a 2021 Yaris that displays the wheels/pressures) I also have marked wheel covers so that the tyres/wheels go back on exactly the same way. Another way is to use a black felt tip pen on the inside of the wheel somewhere and put "FR", "FL", "RR" & "RL" so that you don't forget...

Thanks Cyker for your comprehensive reply, I’ve had the red flash warnings a couple of times which I couldn’t understand the reason for. However your reply has the possible reasons. I agree that the system isn’t suitable for our narrow streets and the lane departure correctional system isn’t really suitable for the narrow roads I mostly drive on. It is sometimes inclined to pull the steering wheel out of the hands. It would be scary for someone not expecting it.

My Excel AWD company car arrived last Friday and has now got just under 300 miles of mixed driving under its belt. First impressions are very positive. Coming from a 3008, I'm finding the cabin more comfortable but the controls - as another poster has commented - slightly industrial...and I love them! Never had an automatic before and rarely driven one - my wife has never driven one at all but I seem to have lost my new toy as she's grabbed it. I think the only slight disappointment is the sunroof as the 3008 was full length but my fault for not checking I'm sure I'll have a few questions along the way but the main one at the moment is around the wing mirrors folding when the car is locked. Before I started messing around with various settings they did...and now they don't! Any ideas please - I couldn't find anything in the handbook.

The boxing comes from truck A travelling at 59.9 mpg and truck B at 60.1 with you travelling at a comfortable 59.9 at 3 separation bars from the truck in front. Truck B can see there is room in front of you for him and sits on your rear bumper.

I hate being boxed in by lorries, I wouldn't find that relaxing at all. Nor do I want to do 90mph everywhere.

OP's post - Intermittent crank no start Where to start - Codes, fuel, air, spark, no comms from the ecu, fuses, power and ground

Glad it went Ok with the reversing lights as you say and easy one. I ordered these but I was changing more than the one bulb as they occur in a few places plus I wanted a spare. All the ones I’ve installed work first time, no flickering or errors. There are plenty of options and you might want to seek out an alternative W5W LED. It’s a bit more fiddly but I think worth it. I used some plastic trim tools which are also pretty good, again plenty of alternatives out there. https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B085DMDTPF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08XMD85YR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This sounds so sad but I like the look of the reversing LED’s when they are off and you can see the bulbs, like small yellow eyes, I said it was sad!

Exactly as Keith says: snippet from the handbook! 🙂

Hi Wellfed. Regarding the folding wing mirrors there is a rocker switch in front of the widow switches on the drivers door. From memory one way is open the other closed and when in the middle position the mirrors open and close automatically. enjoy your new car.

What a terrible situation to be put in. I'm sure you've considered going to another Toyota dealer. I imagine that the dealer you have been to is one of the Steven Eagell chain. I have no knowledge of them except as a customer, but I have met/chatted to people who have met the man himself - he exists and is still very much in charge! There seems to be a consensus that he is actually a decent bloke, and takes letters and emails sent to him very seriously. You might try explaining the situation directly to him. I don't have an email address, but I'm certain it could easily be found. He runs the biggest Toyota dealer network in Europe now, fwiw. I suspect that you're the guinea pig here, there will probably be a TSB when enough people report this problem, but you've caught all the cr@p whilst this problem is established/logged at Toyota GB. I think the silencer itself is a very low grade of stainless steel (type 409 is normal across brands, I understand)), but what good is that if the welded-on brackets fail after 2 years!?

Some insurers class a hard wired dashcam as a modification, as it is a permanent addition to the vehicle. Check with your insurer.

The Yaris uses a Direct TPMS system - see: https://mag.toyota.co.uk/how-does-tpms-work/

Yes, +1 on Hybrid myths quashed 😀 My best ever (indicated) MPG was from empty - reset, drive to St Albans, mixed roads, a lot of Motorway and 69MPG. That's without really trying. This was in 1.8 Auris Excel, and it wasn't that run in or that great weather. File poor MPG on "highway" along with poor economy "once the battery has gone flat" and other useless comments made by people who have probably never driven or lived with the cars. Have only fannyied around for less than 200 miles in my 2.0, including sitting with engine on/Ready for extended periods (playing with settings 😋) and still getting over 50MPG indicated on a tight engine, cold days and no real attention paid to the driving.

Irish car or imported originally UK car? It sounds to me similar to a DPF trying to regenerate. p.s. welcome to TOC

You're not wrong there hahaha😂😂

If Halfords are fitting it you would like to think they would position it where legally acceptable, but, there is always a but….. The 322GW is designed so the front camera can be bought solely as a front camera…… like I did. The rear camera is an attachment I could buy but choose not too. Whether Nextbase do a rear camera holder such that the rear camera for the 322GW can fit to ….. you would have to go to Nextbase website. You obviously will also see Nextbase full range too.

This is one of the reasons I've updated to Android Auto and now never use the in built Satnav

The UK gen4 yaris doesn't have Wi-Fi, system updates are done by USB there are currently none available

Hi Terry. I have a next base front and rear view dash cam in my Yaris. The rear camera is mounted on the rear window just below the high level brake light with the wiring routed under the brake light housing. The dash cam was in the vehicle when bought as it was an ex demo. Here is a link to the model which is approved by Toyota. https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/parts/lexus-ux/lexus-ux-2018-present/lexus-ux-accessories/lexus-nextbase-1080p-front-and-rear-integrated-dash-cam/ Link for a Lexus but the same model dash cam.

I dont want to go that slow. Danish motorway has speed limits set at 68 (110 kmh) or 80 (130 kmh) mph, so 55 mph may seem most fuel efficient, but I'll find my self holding up traffic, since no one expects passenger cars to drive that slow. The 45 km. to my work is limited to 80 (130 kmh) all the way. I find 71 mph (115 kmh) to be the best speed overall, that gives the most time with cruise control enabled. I can still overtake a truck, if no one comes from behind, and I loose 2 minuttes compared to my GPS suggested time of arrival.

Hi Terry and welcome to TOC I got the 322GW, had it just 1 year. Mine tools neatly half hidden by the interior drivers mirror BUT I do not half the rear view module which attaches to the main body by removing a cover then the rear view module attaches magnetically. It’s a strong magnet so will be stable. Problem is, where to attach the unit, as said, mine Is half tucked behind the internal mirror it, I don’t think that is an option because of the rear view camera. Check the legal situation as if it is placed intruding too much into the windscreen wiper sweep it will fail it’s MOT, and before your next MOT you could get stopped. Cable run can be tucked into the headliner, no problem, you should get a plastic tool in the box just to help, then tucked inside the windscreen pillar trim coming down to the dash, and so on till you get under the dash near where foot pedals are. Then you need to choose do you want to go to a fuse box, or 12v cig lighter, or as I do to a USB port. Quality of recording is good.

Been to a small auto garage: the whining sound comes from the gearbox, probably, and the repair should be covered by warranty, probably. Still a mistery, this is.

You're overthinking it. I once glued my heat shield back to the bodywork using a mix of mamut glue and sawdust, that thing held like a champ, and it was rubbery/flexible, so no issues. It held fine for some 3 yrs, then i sold the car. Or just do as other people here, unscrew original screws, make big washers out of aluminium cans, screw back, problem solved.

It certainly has not been the case on my 2017 Avensis. Other than the warning light on the dash no issues & when I put the summers with TPMS back on I don't have to do anything (NB my wheels go into marked covers so that they go back onto the hub that they came off).

Oh that's good news - EGR isn't a common problem on the 1.4 D4D; It gets filled with all sorts of crap and gets a bit sticky but usually stays working enough that the system is happy. One related common issue is there is a tiny channel that goes from the EGR to the turbo throttlebody (It's connected to the big fat intercooler pipe) that gets blocked up with soot to the point where you wouldn't know the little port is there when looking inside the throttlebody, and it causes the idle to keep dropping to near-stall then surging. Have had to have that cleaned on both the D4Ds I've owned, but thanks to the magical power of Carb Cleaner, A Metal Bowl and A Sacrificial Toothbrush it's really easy to clean it out. (Trying to clean it without soaking it in carb cleaner first is almost impossible! It's amazing how easily that stuff shifts baked in soot!) Yours is the later 1.4 D4D tho' so they might have fixed that problem in yours...! If I may make a suggestion - If the majority of your journeys is going to be short ones, I'd highly recommend switching to Shell V-Power diesel - It's considerably more expensive, but if you drive so little you'll hardly notice the extra cost, and it'll be a lot better for your engine as it burns a lot cleaner, which will reduce the exhaust deposits, and has a lot of cleaning additives which will help stop crud building up on the injectors and fuel system, which diesels are prone to if they don't get hot.