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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/20/2021 in all areas

  1. I must admit i got worried about this with my second car a nearly 18 years ago, it was the first one that had AC and i freaked out because i saw this wet/damp looking patch on the road under the car, i did go full "Due South" (the TV show from years ago where the Mountie tasted everything) and dabbed the ground with my finger at least to find out if it tasted like oil (and no i don't know what that tastes like), i then realised that the it was the AC condensing/drainage pipe and yes i felt like a complete idiot at the time but i learnt some valuable lessons 1) i'm not a Mountie 2) you shouldn't just randomly taste things on the floor even if it does happen on a TV show 3) it tasted of damp road 4) i still don't know what oil tasks like and nor do I want to Hope this helps 😄
    5 points
  2. 3 points
  3. No obvious paint chips on my bonnet but if I can get 20k miles out of a set of front tyres I'm doing well. I don't drive fast (far from it) and nor do I use my brakes if I can avoid it but I know what my car can do and I won't slow for bends more than I have to. Many years ago I owned a Nissan Almera and they had some kind of snazzy (at the time) rear suspension that kept the tyres vertical with respect to the road surface. That car could corner like it was on rails. But the rear tyres wore as fast as the front tyres which was a bit painful on the old wallet 😕
    2 points
  4. White van man is the biggest culprit, or the old boy without his hearing aid in/on You could wear an earpiece, but that may make you look like a BMW/Audi driver
    2 points
  5. Just a word of caution- Reactolite and Transitions glasses use photochromic glass, they are not polarising. I'm not saying polarising glasses won't be OK but they are very different to photochromic glasses.
    2 points
  6. The Manual, for the Yaris, states that the car can be left a few months without driving, so I guess I and many others are worrying unduly. Waiting too long for one's car to be built can lead to paranoia, it seems 😉;
    2 points
  7. Thanks i'm glad i'm not totally insane, it's more of a feeling i guess than a technical/mechanical thing. 😄 The situation happened more recently yesterday when going from 40mph (slow car) to 60mph to overtake, I think i just wasn't expecting the "punch" with associated nice sounds from the engine 😄
    2 points
  8. Part of the issue is the volume is turned up to compensate for engine noise, etc when the car is being driven, and, when parked with the engine off, the volume is too loud. We often hear phones, etc from other cars - not only Toyotas.
    2 points
  9. Hello all you fine people. My name is daryl. I just picked up the other night a 2002 avensis 1.8 gs. Absolutely love these cars after really liking my old R plate auto cdx and always said I'd have another. Seeing prices of the early ones rising though I didn't think it would be possible any more. This one has loads of receipts,service stamped and even original bill of sale. Ac is ice cold as well. Thanks and take care folks
    1 point
  10. Yes I bought one of those online a few years ago. They are very very good quality but expensive. I can’t remember the name of the company, but they were made in Italy. It was someone on this forum who put me on to them. I will troll my laptop and see if I can get more information. I still have it before I traded in my Yaris I installed it in my wife’s 2015 Yaris. It is actually very much better than the one in my new Yaris.
    1 point
  11. First thing is check where yours was made - If your VIN starts with JTD it's Japanese, if it starts with VNK you have a French one. I remember quite a few posts about this problem back in the day (Use google instead of the forum search to search the site for "power steering not centering" and you'll find loads of threads ) - From what I remember almost every one was due to a power steering problem. The Japanese-built ones all had much more reliable hydraulic power steering, which I've yet to see any failures of, but the French-built models had a relatively new electric power steering system, and the electric motors tended to die as the cars aged. A replacement should be pretty easy and cheap to source nowadays, but not sure how hard it is to replace...! You may need to get it centre-calibrated once it's been changed too. Other things it might be are suspension problems affecting the caster angles, or tyres that are worn weirdly, but from what I remember the failed power steering motor was the most common (and hard to diagnose!) reason.
    1 point
  12. You can slap the door sensor switch to stop it bonging! (It's the rubbery thing near the B-pillar door latch.) One thing I dislike about the PDF manual is it's just a dumb-print out. You can't click on the index/contents sections to jump to that section, but have to search the number and keep skipping through all the other references to that page until you get to the right one! I don't know what they use to create the manual, but I know MS Word and LO Writer both have automatic contents building functions where you use the header styles to tell it what the section and sub section titles are and it can automatically build a numbered index/contents from those - Surely they could do something like that to the PDFs to put in some hyperlinks! The fancy brochure ones do, so why not the manuals?!
    1 point
  13. The Mk2 Aygos X shift autos are not too bad, they have got better with reliability. I haven't had an aygo with a Funroof, not my cup of tea, but even the solid roofs with the dipped shape look funky to me anyway. Apart from when you're trying to balance a cup of coffee on the top when having to close or open the boot.
    1 point
  14. It's just you No, I'm sure it isn't, but definitely not an issue I've had (yet).
    1 point
  15. Philip when you go to the corner please don’t sit on my chair! 😆 The thing I feel about that test is the double switch at such sharp turns which I find most unlikely, I can understand an avoidance move but I’d hope that the driver and the inbuilt aids would have kicked in to help the situation. The real winner in this is the guy making the videos he has so many followers, views, the advertising must make him a good living, the more cars he fails the better his revenue. At the speeds I drive the car does feel planted, comfortable and safe. I’ve driven and owned a lot of cars for comparison. For an example of a car I did not like to drive at any speed into a corner I’d give you the LR Freelander (first model) double rate suspension that rocked and rolled under the slightest provocation.
    1 point
  16. Sorry Ernie - I'll go stand in the corner ... 🙂 It is a real world test - for those who need to avoid moose, rogue cyclists etc. - but I agree we will only do stuff like that in an emergency. The car tested is the revised version (software changes) - the earlier HEVs were even worse. And, yes, as stated in the test video none of the SUV style cars really do that well. I'd hope that the Supra would be a lot more planted ... 😉
    1 point
  17. Not a real life test in my view and was on an early model, I believe that Toyota rejigged the tyre pressures. I really don’t believe anyone is going to drive their car like that and frankly not many cars perform well under those situations.
    1 point
  18. Trouble is we still use a lot of gas to produce electricity.
    1 point
  19. Nick, the thing is the RAV PHEV just does not look like it has the performance it can produce when needed and yet feels very planted.
    1 point
  20. Halfords stuff isn't usually bad, just over-priced. You can get better stuff cheaper elsewhere for sure, but if you need something in a pinch and don't want to think too much they're not the worst place to go if you don't know a better local shop, or motorfactors as people call them for some reason!
    1 point
  21. Yup, not just a Toyota thing - Any time I have my windows down I've always been able to hear people using their phone with the car's handsfree system! Sometimes even without my windows down!!
    1 point
  22. 2.0 TS left on the drive untouched for four weeks several times during lock down with only 2 to 3 miles drives occasionally between and never a problem with the 12 v battery.
    1 point
  23. Battery charge before initial acceleration also play a role in the car behaviour and how you can feel it. Even at high speeds the electric motors help a lot, I am usually a relaxed driver but sometimes do experiments and I had some hard acceleration from around 50-70mph pushed to the max done three times in a row and I noticed that battery went down, almost completely drained, something that you will never see if you are driving smooth. 👍 Toyota hybrids are interesting cars, there is always something new and surprising. 😉
    1 point
  24. Told you I liked a spreadsheet. I did this when I was considering the PHEV. The green line shows the cost per mile (left axis) v cost per KwH (bottom axis). The red line is based on the current cost of diesel. At standard domestic rates (assume 25p/kWh) currently, cost per mile is about 50% of diesel. The break point where it costs the same is when electricity is about 49p/kWh (assuming diesel stays the same). Some of the super fast public chargers on motorways, etc. charge 65p to 75p per kWh which make it around 20% more expensive than diesel already! As I've mentioned before, off peak charging at 5p/kWh brings the cost down to 1.4p/mile, about a tenth the cost of diesel.
    1 point
  25. Looks like it, smells like it, feels like it, tastes like it, thank goodness I didn't step in it (the old dog mess joke🙃)
    1 point
  26. Sport Vs Normal/Eco in the 2.0 seems to me to be less dramatic difference than in the 1.8 Auris. The extra low down torque on the 1.8 was very noticeable in "Power" mode. I think it is more a case of the newer tech seems to use the Electric Motor assistance far more. Not really experimented much but nearly at 1K miles now so will try and do some comparisons on same road/same conditions. I also think that in normal driving, you wont notice the extra power and torque from the 2.0 HSD but more at higher speeds. Definitely on A road/Dual Carriageway/Motorway - joining and mid-range acceleration (50-70 MPH) the 2.0 is more drivable.
    1 point
  27. I was going to suggest a single to 3 ph converter which in theory is possible but after checking myself found it would take all the capacity of the single phase incoming supply. Seems there is no way around it if you want 22kw fast charging other than a full mains upgrade to 3 phase which would cost £K's
    1 point
  28. That’s the one 👍 I have seen same thing happens with people in ultra luxury cars like Range Rovers and mercs etc.
    1 point
  29. I ordered a Yaris Design at beginning of August and was told delivery date of beginning of October. Currently being told 10th November and the app is now showing it as in build - hooray!
    1 point
  30. I have gone from the capacious boot of an E Class to a Toyota HB. I am delighted with the HB and it would meet your needs of occasional motorway and 3 people and not luggage requirements. Yesterday we just did 350 miles mostly motorway at a true 70 most of the way. Only on the third segment did the consumption rise to below 50. But We were 3 up, the larger half of the back seat was folded. We had a dog carry kennel, small overnight bags for a weeks visits away from home, and really missed the larger boot. For a winter trip there would have been no room for winter there would have been no room for winter coats, boots etc. Our next Corolla will be a TS.
    1 point
  31. I've had no issues with my polarising/reactions/transitions (whatever you want to call them) glasses with any of the displays (including HUD) in my GR Sport.
    1 point
  32. I saw some on Amazon the other day. They are not model specific but probably do the job and are £11.99
    1 point
  33. Agreed, very lucky indeed, I just wonder what will happen next year?
    1 point
  34. It does look like the shape is symmetrical so should work for RH drive.
    1 point
  35. To share my experiences of removing the alternator on this car and to offer some advice. This is the model with the alternator mounted behind the engine. The Haynes manual is not much help for this model. Before starting the job I would suggest checking to see if the alternator lower mounting bolt is seized - this is the bit that can make this job a bit of a pita. Just undo the top alternator mounting bolt and lower nut and see if the alternator can be moved to tension the belt. If it can't then chances are that the lower bolt is seized. The reason for checking this before starting is because you are very likely going to damage the nut and bolt banging it out - so best to get a new nut and bolt from Toyota before starting - it is less than £10. To do the job - Obviously disconnect the battery negative lead; then remove the washer tank for access - one 10mm head bolt, remove the pipes and connection to the pump and lift the tank. away. Slacken the two 14mm mounting bolts on the power steering pump, then undo the adjuster lock nut then wind the adjuster anticlockwise to take the tension off the belt - then remove the PS belt. It's a 5pk1050 belt on there. Remove the two electrical connections from the alternator. Undo the lower mounting nut on the alternator and the top mount bolt. In theory you should be able to move the alternator to take the tension off the belt (this one is 4pk820) - if so great - remove the belt remove the lower bolt, top bolt and lift the alternator away. If however the lower bolt is seized solid (as mine was) then it gets a bit more tricky. First thing to do is to cut the belt off - to get better access to the mounting bolt. I tried hitting the end of the bolt (with the nut on the end of course) in situ but access is a bit limited and no space to get a drift in there. I tried penetrating fluid and a big pry bar but that did not work. I tried a socket and breaker bar underneath the car on the bolt end of the bolt - it would not move; it was stuck. The alternator is mounted to the rear of the engine block on a plate that is fixed with two 12mm head size bolts. These are accessible (ish) from underneath the car. One is easy to get at - the other is between the alternator and the engine so is a bit fiddly but it can be done. Leave the top alternator mounting bolt in place to take the weight of the alternator and then working underneath the car remove the two 12mm bolts - one needs a slim open ended spanner and care and patience. Remove the accessible bolt first, then move the alternator back as the second bolt is undone. Once both are out it is then a case of going back to the top, remove the one remaining bolt and carefully lift the alternator complete with mounting bracket away from the car. It is a bit tight getting past the AC pipes and other bits but it is doable. Once the alternator is on the bench I got the bolt out by using more penetrating fluid, an impact driver on the bolt and then hammered the bolt out with a punch. It was not easy even on the bench. Hope this is helpful to someone - I could not find a huge amount of info about this job on the net.
    1 point
  36. Bi-annual brake fluid changes are a standard scheduled maintenance procedure on any vehicle that uses hygroscopic mineral fluid (i.e. DOT 4 or 5.1). It needs doing by time interval, mileage is irrelevant. Doing this diligently can prevent a lot of expensive trouble with seized caliper pistons or cylinder failures in later years. The fluid is dirt cheap but it does take a bit of time to replace it properly. Testing the boiling point at the reservoir is a complete cop-out. It's down at the business end inside the calipers where you need the fluid to be in good condition, not the stuff in the reservoir that never sees any action. Same thing with coolant - refractometer tests are only useful for checking the freezing point, but they don't tell you anything about the effectiveness of the corrosion inhibitors.
    1 point
  37. Had the hatchback until the grandchild arrived. Not enough room for a modern childseat, so swapped for the TS. Best decision ever! More room, space saver spare, handy boot stowage to name but a few bonuses. I reckon the handling and ride are better too, possibly because if the longer wheelbase.
    1 point
  38. So basically only loosing power when under load and you have checked air flow as described, now you will need to check fuel supply and exhaust. If a fuel filter is clogged to the point that may reduce fuel delivery it will eventually splutter when going uphill but not to loose power completely, if it’s a fuel pump going bad usually this comes along with difficult engine starts. Exhaust blockage is also a think as been noted on earlier posts, you will need to look at these two possibilities. Perhaps you may try some fuel additives first to see if there is any positive change. Good luck
    1 point
  39. I mentioned this in another thread, but I am wondering if being an old Yaris, the fuel filler neck pipe has corroded into a hole, and with this pipe being behind the rear wheel and having no protection from spray and water ingress, then water has got into the fuel tank, and this is what is causing the bad running issues, as water being drawn into the cylinders will cause white smoke and low power. Putting more fuel in the tank may improve the matter as it is mixed with the water in the tank, but essentially, water is more dense than petrol so the water will sink to the bottom of the tank and more likely to be drawn into the fuel pickup pipe if the fluid level in the tank is lower - ie, putting more petrol in the tank improves the situation. Check the filler neck pipe from the tank to the filler flap on the rear wing, and check its smaller diameter breather pipe. Any holes from rust in these pipes will allow water from road spray into the fuel tank and the more water that gets in the tank, the worse the engine running problems will be.
    1 point
  40. Hi. Just to let you know that a number of our insurance schemes offer premium discounts for the fitment of a HD dash cam. Regards, Dan.
    1 point
  41. Example: Competed a 114 mile trip today, early so lights on, windscreen wipers, heater/AC, outside temp 16oC so not too cold. I got 51 miles on the EV which took an hour of mixed driving and when the HEV mode kicked in averaged 504 mpg for the rest of the trip. I just used the EV for the first part of the trip and let HEV kick in when EV mode was depleted, my normal driving mode for this type of trip. This is equivalent to an overall 91 mpg, which is the way the MyT app records the data.
    1 point
  42. Michelin PS 4 don't last well but they have good dry and wet grip
    1 point
  43. The OP is in the US, so the above post is largely irrelevant.
    1 point
  44. Are you sure its not just the air conditioning system? If the liquid is clear then it will be condensation that has exited the car via the drain pipe - perfectly normal.
    1 point
  45. Updates an be done by dealers under warranty in response to a reported fault, out of warranty you could pay a dealer ( or if you use them regularly just ask ) otherwise pay for a few hours access @ www.toyota-tech.eu and download what you require.
    1 point
  46. When my wife drives her 2021 Yaris again it will have sat at least 2 weeks on the drive, possibly 3. I'll report back on if we get any issues.
    1 point
  47. Hi. I came across this video of a strip down of a high mileage 1.5 hybrid engine. Didn’t seem to be many issues except possibly out of spec oil causing sludging in sump, and stuck oil control ring on pistons. Again, might be because of excess intervals. Could be of interest. It was to me. https://www.motor1.com/news/539563/toyota-prius-high-mileage-engine/
    1 point
  48. Having driven both the TS has (or feels like it has) slightly softer suspension than the hatch if that matters to you
    1 point
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