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Went in to sort some paperwork this afternoon and nipped into the dealer compund to see the car.... dirty Rav to trade-in in the background. GR Sport in Obsidian Blue. Getting excited now, pick up on 1st March.

Before the NDEC tests, economy figures used to be quoted at (from memory) a town cycle, constant 56 mph (90kph) and 75 mph (120kph). Cars would often be programmed to flat spot at these speeds to improve the official figures.

Well, another couple of weeks. Two Sundays ago I took the Avensis into the garage, shut the doors and put the central heating on and got her waxed up. Washed with some of that Turtle Wax 'extreme' stuff that you can use different concentrations of, I did about 400mls to a 10 litre (the strongest one) to get the old waxes and grime off. I must admit, it came up well. Then some of that Turtle Wax carnauba wax. With my last car I dabbled in some of those high end products and DIY ceramic jobs but I think to be honest, Turtle Wax is as good as anything. Protects the paint, and does leave it a nice glass smooth finish to the touch. I think around May time I'll give it another wax. I'd recommend that 'wax it wet' spray wax for doing your door sills and places like that, gives them some kind of protection. Another job I did was to spray some white grease on to the hinges... bit messy really, maybe a tub would be better than a spray. The license plates were cracked and instead of asking the dealer to replace it with a hideous cheap one with faded printed lettering and their name at the bottom, I ordered some metal pressed plates (legal and all) to put on her. It's a lot more subtle than I thought it would be, but looks clean and won't crack! £30 delivered online. I'll get some photos up later. Next job is to get the windows tinted, thinking 20% as I had 5% (really dark) on my black Fiat Panda - was great on a black car but might look silly on silver. I'm getting around 40mpg on trips to the office and back (6.5 miles city driving) - people tell me that's good, but compared to my DS3 it's not the best. I've been putting £66 a week in. Even on long trips I'm getting just over 50 which is a little disappointing. This car is phenomenal - the size and comfort are great. But I think I shot myself in the foot, as it uses a lot of fuel. As someone who likes doing a lot of pointless trips, I might have been better going for that A-Class or Auris... The slowness of the 1.6 doesn't bother me that much. I really, really hope the BMW engine proves reliable. But I don't hear too many stories of 300,000 mile plus Mini diesels or BMW 1 series........ Nothing I can do now , I've got 13k (including the finance interest) left on this car so I'm kind of stuck with it! It is nice, but the fuel drinking problem - though it's 'good' - is more tha I should have agreed to by moving up to the large saloon segment... lesson learnt. That's the latest update on my Avensis for anyone who likes to hear about it 🙂

True... I think my eagerness is just showing 🤣 I'm in that "I want it and I want it now!" stage of the process haha.

Who said it’s a storm today with high winds of 100mph., I just had washed my car 😂, all safety precautions were taken 👷🏻‍♂️🥽☢️.

Just saying: the master cylinder in our 2003 Yaris is original and works perfectly so far (MOT passed again today)

If you lose ALL the keys on any Toyota you are up the creek. The key tag only gets you a key number, the key number is the least of the problems, when you lose all the keys the only way is new ECU/Lock set, OR find a locksmith who can re-programme the ECU, I have a chap who is very good, but he cannot do all models, Aygo is a particular problem car, the whole dash has to come out to change the theft relay. It would have been far cheaper to have a spare key, never ever ever only have one key to the car, you are in for a big bill if you lose the only key

I spend a lot of time rummaging in my boot for work stuff, the little light on the side isn't too good (bulb or LED) so I got this super thin rechargeable 40cm LED strip light. It has strong magnets in it so I had hoped it would stick to the underside if the boot cover, but its Aluminium.. oops! forgot to test! But, it comes with a couple of steel mounting clips with very strong sticky pads you can leave in place and then magnetically latch the light to the mounts. so no problem. Held by its magnets it will be easy to detach and take for a charge up when needed. Has a switch, Off, On and Auto: where its activated for a couple of minutes by a PIR sensor, I have found just waving my hand in the boot does it. But it won't activate if ambient light is sufficient anyway. I will see how it fares in action, got it from China, Aliexpress for about a tenner. Standard light With extra light

Topics merged

Ok, so much for being certain the noise was coming from the engine!, had some time today to investigate and a quick look underneath revealed the rear end of the fuel tank heat shield was hanging down onto the exhaust, the rear mounting had rotted through!. So, half an hour later and a bit of fabricating and it’s end of doom laden noise!!.

I think my car was pretty cheap for what it is. But people don't seem to be interested in them. Big saloons in general on a decline. Fuel prices going up. Tax through the roof (mines 155). Toyota fans don't like the BMW engine and reject them. BMW / German car fans would never give up the vanity or superficial benefits of their cars for something like reliability at the cost of the cool looks and sound proofing and chrome air vent rings etc lol I think that's why they're so cheap

Images as promised... Metal stamped license plates.... pre-waxing in the garage... this morning in the snow (disappointingly the snow wiped off in one go...really wanted to test how quickly it went from snowed in to ready to go) lol

That’s not Tony, it is his other half. Tony’s not that brave.😄

You're a braver man than I!!

It sounds like you don't live in the big city, in my view anything that obscures what you may have left on the back seat is a good thing. In the Yaris, I can't tell that the rear windows are tinted when looking out.

Tinting just the rear windows (rear doors and rear windows) or front door windows as well? Check what is legal where you are - for example in mainland Britain window tinting can legally be no more than 30% for the front windows/windscreen, and the existing factory tint already equates to approx 25% or more.

Hi Roger, sure.. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002185047094.html Took 3 weeks for me.

When cars were supplied new there would have been a small metal tag usually attached to the key ring. This is the key number which main dealers can use to produce new keys. As an outside chance have you still got the tag anywhere - car document folder, for example. Sometimes the key number was noted in the front of the service book. I always keep a note of the key number (in the service book and on my phone) when we change our cars.

Nice looking t sport there,is it the thunder grey ? Mine is a 2003 five door, standard spec. Same as cat lover modded cars are not for me to own , but I do admire and like the looks of them. It sounds as though you know what you're doing , the Mx 5 looks superb,nice job.

Yes, assuming that it is indeed the crankshaft seal and not just oil leaking down to the bell housing from somewhere higher up. A UV dye + torch kit can sometimes be helpful in tracing the source, especially when access to do a thorough clean of the engine is difficult.

Never understood why Toyota think the boot lighting is adequate especially when the boot is loaded. I think there should be a light in the roof above but it does mean having to roll the boot cover back. My solution was to buy a LED multi angle light from Wickes and I hook it onto the top of the rear door opening. Cheap and works for me but might not work if you were having to get into your boot a lot.

Same! I check everyday, knowing it's not going to make it go any quicker haha

That's about right, manufactures figures are done in a controlled lab not the real world, the engine hasn't even broken in yet

Nice looking car: very clean underneath. Envy🤑

As far as I know, this behavior ( windows up and down with key fob) can be programed by the dealer. I would guess, that it is not package dependent. When I asked the salesman about it, he said, that they can do it, but they advised against it because: if you have key in your back pocket, sit down, accidentally press unlock button for period of time, windows will go down, it can then start raining, interior will get wet and they would not be responsible for it and it wont be covered by the warranty. Mod edit! 😀 Never heard of this scenario before. 😀

Plenty of videos on YouTube. I'd prefer the dealer to do it, in case there are any issues about warranty. They can get funny about 3rd party installations.

Okey i will see Thankyou

Your salesman can hear it but you can’t. Either the salesman is fibbing or your hearing is not what it was…… hearing aids on the nhs are free you know…..I got two, one for each ear. 😄 I remember my dad, he wouldn’t go for hearing aids…. he said it was us talking lower. Funnily, the older he got the softer we spoke. 😂. We still loved him.

It is an interchangeable supersession, so you could fit either. There will have been some material product change to the newer number, it could be a different manufacture process or material change, I don't think you could ever find out, but on the basis it is a solid flywheel, I doubt it would cause a vibration. I think you need to look elsewhere for that. If you think it is in the clutch, the most likely problem is the clutch is not aligned properly, or a problem in the clutch like a broken spring or bearing issue

Mind you some of the cars are designed and tuned to be most optimal at 90kmh. Years ago I had a BMW E90 2.0d and the consumption at 70kmh was crazy... Get up to 90 and it was sometimes 2L/100 less!!

Welcome, Ari

Shame about the dark interior, but hurray for the 16" rims. If Toyota France had that option when I bought mine I may well have gone for it.

Yeah they are good, definitely notice there is less chat about them in the Facebook groups than the other hatches of the era. It's a shame really, some nice bits around for them but options are fairly limited for some stuff. I'm used to 5s though, so anything seems more limited, there's so much stuff available for them it's crazy. Ah god the dreaded ULEZ haha, I see that as a main selling point when people are selling used cars now, when they're compliant. Nothing like that down in Brighton, yet! Cheers mate, planning to do a couple of little bits, I've heard rear upper strut braces are quite well recommended on these?

Bet the DAB works better on that! 😬

If you see the schematic of the HVAC system in Toyota, it has humidity sensor and the AC is actually functioning as dehumidifier in winter. As we turn the heater on, we breath and add humidity, the ac evaporator is cold and condense the water. Yes, we need the AC to be on in winter to reduce the humidity and purge it to the drain. In summer it is obvious how AC reduce humidity. The HVAC in post 2004 cars are smart, if it has climate control, it adjust humidity and temperature too using both AC and heater at the same time. The AC is at the front of the air intake in the HVAC box. The air pass the AC first, moisture is removed and then flow to the heater. You do not need special dehumidifier if you drive the car. If it is in garage and it was wet before from leak or any water spill, dehumidifier may be needed. I know 2nd gen Prius was notorious for water leaks from crack roof near the hatch. I put JB weld on it and it holds well for many years until i sold it. Not sure about Auris . So far I do not have problems with water leak. I do have problem with fogging on the windows if the AC is off in winter in recirculation moxe. The windshield fogging is easy to deal with by pressing defogger but not the windows.

When was driving a Prius as part of a large fleet we had a 1000 miles window to book in a service, therefore when the car go past 9000 miles on the daily trip meter we were booking in. I was doing 3 times per year and never been late for it, now is even easier, just lift the car up and do it myself, easy job and cheaper.

Yeah, definitely more warm-hatch; It's a bit gutless until you get the revs up but is hilarious fun on bendy roads and it really really loves being revved! Definitely a lot more fun than a 107 and more practical while being not that much bigger! It's a very underrated car IMHO, but do I have a mild obsession with the Mk1's; I had a Mk1 D4D and it was the best car I ever had - Spades of torque in a car that weighs nothing, very hoonable and still returned 60mpg; Was stupidly fun to drive! Had to get rid of it due to our money grubbing scumbag mayor Sadiq KHAAAAAAN! and am still a bit sad about that. The Mk4 I have now is surprisingly fun to drive despite not being a manual, but I do find myself missing the gear stick, and you really feel the extra weight around corners! It also cost me nearly 10 times as much, but it's definitely not 10 times as good...! The old T-Sports do seem to be becoming more popular lately - A future classic perhaps! It does make me happy the T-Sport is having a small revival on this forum - I missed the T-Sport crowd here (Both Yaris and Corolla!) talking about different performance mods and such

Yes, if you want to coat the terminals, there is a product called ACF-50 that is widely used in the aviation and haulage industries for preserving electrical contacts. It's expensive but very effective. Comes in aerosols or 1 litre bottles. Having said that, do not try to access or tamper with the hybrid system electrical connections unless you know what you are doing.

Keeping clean interior and ventilated, no need to be always ac on, even opposite, winter times ac can introduce more moisture than help prevent it. Summer time when 20 C° or more then ac is good to have. Cleaning fan filter or fan is must have and regular checks under floor spare wheel area for water ingress if you have gen 3 hybrids with battery located in boot. I have done all that also placed a moisture absorption bag next to the spare wheel just in case. I have another dehumidifier in the cabin too, placed in rear door card., and yes does collect water, I change that every now and then. That’s pretty much all.

Last two days even in a heavy winds I am rocking 53mpg, slightly more than my typical average for that time of the year., I didn’t kept the car in ready mode for heating as it wasn’t that cold at least and been driving mostly at around 60mph with more only when the wind was helping 😉👌 btw my dash displays dead on accurate 👍

Thanks. Yes it does have the old BS number so should be OK

The RAC-approved garage gave it a look look over today and said no issues! The underside had been sealed and was solid - so no further corrosion there. Pleased!

The efficiency will depend of how much the internal combustion engine is loaded, since the ice works to propel the car and also to recharge the battery at slightly higher speeds the inertia of the car is greater and therefore it’s easier on the fuel because the high rotational speed of the wheels can help the ice turn the MG1 using less energy (fuel). Basically your Toyota hybrid is most efficient when your engine is quieter. There is also one more thing, when you drive with 50mph the car switches to ev more often and drains the battery faster then recharging again where if you drive with 60mph the ice will be the major power source with little help from e motor and longer battery drain intervals. Speeds of around 60-65mph are the most suitable for our hybrids.

Very difficult to say. However I am of the opinion that 50 mph is not optimal. I think that because it seems like the HSD struggles to keep the battery charged at 50 mph. If you're doing a mostly steady 60 mph there will often be moments when the ICE stops charging the battery but it's rare to see that if you're only doing 50 mph. On the other hand that's complicated by why the ICE might be doing a better job. I think that the ECU has a complicated algorithm for choosing how/when it charges the battery. It will always charge it if it thinks it's low but otherwise I assume it looks as the difference in ICE efficiency between 'maintaining speed' and 'maintaining speed and charging' then considers the losses involved in using the battery to move the vehicle (it's the difference between the two that is responsible for the overall lower fuel consumption that we enjoy). ICE efficiency isn't linear so it's possible that making the ICE work harder can make it more efficient (more fuel burnt per distance travelled but more energy extracted from the fuel). Maybe at 50 it's just that much better to 'overrun' the ICE whereas at 60 charging the battery actually makes the ICE less efficient.

I think it can make sense, but I expect that there's a "super optimal" speed for cruising, where all the planets line up and you get maximum efficiency from the ICE, and perfect reutilisation of the excess energy pumped into the traction battery. As @Catlover is implying, I suspect over any given stretch of road, you are never going to have the exact same conditions from one day to another. There's wind speed, temperature and the coffee you drank that morning/afternoon, whatever, all make a difference !

hey guys, thought i would give you all an update, the MAF sensor replacement did NOT solve my problem, after breaking down once again i had the car transported to a toyota dealer (not the same as the first one i went to) and after providing written consent for them to download the vehicle control history they where able to pinpoint the first time the error code appeared and right along side it was another code which turned out to be the Fuel Pump relay switch, which they replaced and now thankfully after 12 days of driving its safe to say all is good, i will however be putting an official complaint in to Toyota regarding the service i received from the first dealer as its believed by all involved that had they done what the second dealer did it would have saved me almost £2k as i most likely wouldnt have had to replace the cat and sensors including MAF, will let you guys know how i get on with complaint ;-)

Have you got the MY22 model?

Have you you used Toyota for service since 1st June 2021 if you have you should have a Relax warranty from Toyota which should cover a faulty Brake master cylinder.

So, it was a nice day today, this morning quick washed the car, this afternoon polished it using a Carnuba wax polish. It was Renault waterless wash/wax which is Carnuba wax based with a ceramic coat included - not seen that feature before in these waterless wash/wax. It took me about 70 minutes to do the whole car with the Carnuba wax and then polish it, plus two largish microfibre cloths, one for applying wax, other for buffing. Just got the tyres to black up now.

This is the list of adjustable settings using Carista, including the window settings, read from my Corolla this morning. I've turned the annoying seat dings off on mine, as I use the car for work, and the rear seats are far too sensitive to having boxes on etc. The warning still flashes on the display (which is fine for me) but I'm no longer being deafened when transporting heavy items. Dings & Warnings: Seat belt warning ding (driver) ENABLED / *DISABLED* Seat belt warning ding (front passenger) ENABLED / *DISABLED* Seat belt warninig ding (rear right passenger) ENABLED / *DISABLED* Seat belt warninig ding (rear left passenger) ENABLED / *DISABLED* Seat belt warninig ding (rear center passenger) ENABLED / *DISABLED* Ding when key is left in the car *ENABLED* / DISABLED Ding when key is out of the car and ignition is on *YES* / NO Ding when headlights are left on *YES* / NO Remote low battery warning *ON* / OFF Driver Assist: Default distance for Pre-Collision System (PCS) alarm when the PCS switch is turned off and back on *NORMAL* / REMEMBER LAST DISTANCE Default distance for Pre-Collision System (PCS) alarm when the ignition is turned on with the PCS switch off *NORMAL* / REMEMBER LAST DISTANCE Heater & A/C: Auto-turn on A/C when AUTO button pressed (if needed) *YES* / NO Auto-turn on recirculate mode when A/C is on *YES* / NO Open vents to outside air when ignition is turned off *YES* / NO Auto-increase blower speed when front defroster is on *YES* / NO Open air flow to footwell when AUTO button pressed *YES* / NO Ambient temperature calibration -3°C / -2°C / -1°C / *NORMAL* / +1°C / +2°C / +3°C A/C ECO mode *ENABLED* / DISABLED A/C compressor noise reduction ENABLED / *DISABLED* S-Flow function *ENABLED* / DISABLED Instruments: Displays & Nav: Instrument lights dimming sensitivity DARKEST / DARKER / *NORMAL* / LIGHTER / LIGHTEST Instrument lights restoring sensitivity DARKEST / DARKER / *NORMAL* / LIGHTER / LIGHTEST Engine start indicator *ON* / OFF Display odometer after ignition is turned off for… *30 SECONDS* / 1 MINUTE / 10 MINUTES / OFF Lights: Automatic: Auto headlights activation threshold DARKEST / DARKER / *NORMAL* / LIGHTER / LIGHTEST Lights: Exterior: Lane-change turn signal auto-flasher count OFF / *3 FLASHES* / 4 FLASHES / 5 FLASHES / 6 FLASHES / 7 FLASHES Turn signal click volume LOW / *MEDIUM* / HIGH Coming-home lights duration *30 SECONDS* / 60 SECONDS / 90 SECONDS / 120 SECONDS Lights: Interior: Interior light control *ENABLED* / DISABLED Turn on interior lights when you shut off engine *YES* / NO Turn on interior lights when you unlock doors *YES* / NO Turn on interior lights when smart key in range *YES* / NO Dim interior lights after… 7 SECONDS / *15 SECONDS* / 30 SECONDS Interior footlight (bright when doors open, dim when driving) *YES* / NO Interior lights linked to footlight *YES* / NO Turn on interior door-handle & center console lights dimly (flood lights) when ignition is on and shifter is not in park (P) *YES* / NO Locking: Automatic: Wireless door locking *ENABLED* / DISABLED Re-lock doors automatically if you unlock, but don't open a door within… *30 SECONDS* / 60 SECONDS / 120 SECONDS Locking: Doors & Alarm: Unlock doors via remote DRIVER'S DOOR ON 1ST PRESS, ALL ON 2ND / *ALL DOORS ON 1ST PRESS* Unlock doors via physical key DRIVER'S DOOR ON 1ST PRESS, ALL ON 2ND / *ALL DOORS ON 1ST PRESS* Unlock doors via smart key (door handle button) DRIVER'S DOOR ON 1ST PRESS, ALL ON 2ND / *ALL DOORS ON 1ST PRESS* Warn (beep) when door can't be locked because it's still open *YES* / NO Warn (beep) when a window is still open when locking doors *YES* / NO Warn (beep) when sunroof is still open when locking doors *YES* / NO Disarm the alarm when unlocking with key from door lock YES / *NO* Locking: Smart Key: Stop monitoring for car key signal after… 5.0 Touch-to-unlock-doors minimum duration OFF / SHORT / *MEDIUM* / LONG After locking with smart key, don't allow re-opening within… 0.5 SECONDS / 1.5 SECONDS / *2.5 SECONDS* / 5 SECONDS Smart key location to start car FRONT SEATS / *ANYWHERE IN VEHICLE* Open trunk via smart key DISABLED / DOUBLE CLICK / *LONG PRESS* Mirrors: Auto fold side-view mirrors (req. power folding mirrors) WITH IGNITION / *WITH DOOR LOCKS* / DISABLED Parking Sensors: Parking sensor beep volume LOW / *MEDIUM* / HIGH Rear center parking sensor range SHORT / *LONG* Trunk: Open trunk lid with remote SINGLE CLICK / DOUBLE CLICK / *LONG PRESS* / VERY LONG PRESS / DISABLED Unlock trunk when doors are unlocked *ON* / OFF Windows & Sunroof: Open windows and sunroof via long-press on remote ON / *OFF* Close windows and sunroof via long-press on remote ON / *OFF* Open windows and sunroof by turning and holding key in door lock ON / *OFF* Close windows and sunroof by turning and holding key in door lock ON / *OFF* Beep when opening/closing windows with remote *YES* / NO Open driver's window using single button press *YES* / NO Close driver's window using single button press *YES* / NO Open passenger's window using single button press *YES* / NO Close passenger's window using single button press *YES* / NO Rear-left window single-touch-close *YES* / NO Rear-left window single-touch-close *YES* / NO Rear-right window single-touch-close *YES* / NO Rear-right window single-touch-close *YES* / NO Passenger window single-touch-open from driver's switch *YES* / NO Passenger window single-touch-close from driver's switch *YES* / NO Rear-left window single-touch-open from driver's switch *YES* / NO Rear-left window single-touch-close from driver's switch *YES* / NO Rear-right window single-touch-open from driver's switch *YES* / NO Rear-right window single-touch-close from driver's switch *YES* / NO Obtained with Carista 5.0.1 for Android. If an app on a mobile phone can make these changes, then the dealer certainly should be able to, it's just a matter of how helpful and willing they are.