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The 1.8 has ample power for me and I've never felt the need for more. Possibly it takes more skill to make up for the power difference but that doesn't bother me. I also rarely feel the need to drive fast. Most of the time it doesn't significantly affect the journey time anyway. I've just come back from a vacation in North Wales. At no point did I feel a lack of power despite the Welsh hills. Nor did my 1.8 have any problems keeping up with other vehicles in the outside lane of the motorway - you just have to be prepared to actually press the accelerator all the way down - which is after all why Toyota gave us that much pedal travel and allowed the engine to reach those RPM. The 2.0 probably feels more refined at high speeds on the motorway but apart from one brief section where I was trying to get past Birmingham before rush hour I was happy to sit in lane one and bimble along at 60 mph. As for MPG: 190 miles driving up north and another 100 miles driving to various golf courses - 67 mpg according to the dash, 59 mpg pump to pump (but different pumps). 190 miles back down - dash is currently showing 68 mpg.

I should have said my 5 year plan is £20.86 per month and as the car was bought as a keeping I thought it made sense to spread the cost.

Yeah same. I have no concerns about the 2 litre. 1.8 or 2.0, Toyota know how to make engines and they know how to make hybrids.

I had a 16 plate Auris 1.8 Hybrid Excel TS which was a damn good vehicle by the way. So I tried a 1.8 Corolla test drive and certainly noticed a lack of go when taking off. But the engine was less noisy when revving which it did alot on hills. It was an ok vehicle but when I test drove the 2.0 Corolla it was just on another level. So smooth and refined with effortless power. The engine was very quiet on the same test hills and very little revving in any situation. 1.8 Corolla is a better all round ride than Auris was and a smoother engine. Just down on grunt if you need it, where as the Auris did have a nice power reserve when required. That loss of 14bhp is very noticable as far as I am concerned.

Looks ok in general. Some salt corrosion on the aluminium parts, perhaps been taken on the motorway once during winter. If it’s me I will get it clean, jet wash the entire engine bay. 👍

I imagine there is a cooling fan in there, but I've never heard mine. You need to make sure that the air vents are not covered or blocked by anything. Also I would take the air vent cover off and check the filter and make sure it's clean and not blocked in any way. If so the batteries will overheat and the fan will be working overtime. The kick action may not be fitted to your vehicle?

HI Roger, Really feel for you. I've done over 200 miles in mine in the first week and it is definitely a please to drive. Keep trying to find an excuse to go for a drive. Done just over 200 miles and getting about 66 mpg which is far better than I got with the MOKKA. Longer trip to the midlands tomorrow/Monday so will see how I fare on a longer run. Checked the tyre pressure yesterday and found that the garage had put 7psi more in each tyre, must have put the apprentice on it. Hope you get the news you are waiting for soon!!

It's for engine breaking in a hybrid, I tend to use it for going down steep hills, saves using the brakes as much

I’ve not seen anything ‘official’, but as Tony said above it’s probably best to charge directly to the battery. That said, I’ve always charged mine via the fuse box ‘live’ port under the bonnet with no issues. It’s a jump start connection, so designed to feed power to the battery. It was this logic that led me to use it. My CTEC smart charger seems happy enough using it

It’s true if you drive very gently, the two will be similar. The extra power & torque from the 2.0 is more noticeable in the following circumstances: - accelerating onto & during motorway drives - carrying lots of people / load - driving in hilly terrain (peak district) The difference in 0-60 when driven foot to floor (not often done by anyone) is around 3 seconds, which is a huge difference. If you drive gently with both cars it will be similar (by the same logic a Porsche 911 will also do 0-60 in a similar timeframe). in 20/30mph roads (if this is your predominant driving environment) then the 1.8 is perfectly suitable, reinforced by the taxi drivers engine of choice in the Prius.

At the end of the day, the top of the range Exclusive was test driven, and isn't going to be targeting the 'value' buyer - for that one can go for the Pure which is around £3,000 cheaper whether in manual or automatic form, and certainly compared to the previous generation Aygo is better equipped, has a larger boot, and a bit more room inside. htthttps://mag.toyota.co.uk/toyota-aygo-x-revealed/ps://mag.toyota.co.uk/toyota-aygo-x-revealed/ The base Yaris, although a hybrid, costs around £4,400 more than the base Aygo X auto - which at this price may well be beyond what a lot of prospective Aygo X buyers wish to spend.

Just booked the car in for it’s first service and requested the A/C Compressor ECU update, didn’t seem to know about that but did say there was an recall regarding brakes, reprogramming, which would be done at the same time as the service. Any offers as to what this is about? I’ve not been able to see any information other than a reference to ‘stability control’ systems but nothing concrete.

Given the towing issues are still not resolved entirely to my satisfaction (ride), I am toying with investigating retro fit air suspension, or different shocks. Has anyone any experience or knowledge of specialist companies or Toyota specialists who might recommend aftermarket systems or shockers? In the past I had good experience on Audi’s variously with Koni, Bilstein and Monroe gas shocks.

Well that's good logic 🙂 when i went to Lexus about getting a new vehicle the salesman didn't think the 2 litre was any good for me hence he recommended the Toyota 1.8 gr sport with the HUD which would have cost £5000 extra on the Lexus. i very rarely use the motorway, so there would be no point in getting the 2 litre. Had Lexus had a 1.8 it still would have been not a good match, paying a higher premium for just the cosmetics and insurance etc of course if i were using the motorway daily then it's no-brainer the 2 litre would have been perfect

Toyota themselves do some. Part numbers: PW178-02017 and PW178-02000 for the front bumper and bonnet, I don't think they are full coverage though. Toyota also have PPF for other parts of the car. You can find the manuals and part numbers on toyota-tech.eu

Thanks Tony, I agree salt is a menace.

Still not had the car back. They’re still assessing what needs to be done and if Toyota will pay for the work to be carried out. Getting a bit peed off with it all. Only had the car for a week and it’s been at Toyota now for nearly another week. CR won’t move on anything until they get the assessment of what needs to be done and costs. They will see what the cost will be. If high, they will order us another car and do bare minimum on ours and re-sell. If costs are reasonable, looks like we will be asked to have it back. From what I’ve been told, it could be wings, bonnet and bumper removal to re-adjust hinges and panels. Not happy with having our brand new car stripped! They never go back together the same ( not that I want the same inferior standards ). Will hopefully know more Tuesday/Wednesday next week.

2.0 variant is alot more powerful than older 1.8 by a country mile. 180bhp against 136bhp off the top of my head but fuel consumptoin very similar suprisingly. Going from my old 1.8 Auris to a 2.0 Corolla is a world of differance in terms of power take up. But I did like the Auris alot.

I got nearly £4K off my 2.0 GR. Ordered start of April. They actually bettered the Car Wow discount too.

Thought the same. Used to wash my diesel engines with extra care and no high pressure water, but would not do it on this one, too many cables and connections all around. I tried to clean a bit of the aluminium corrosion with WD40 and wipe it dry after, it looks that work but that is too much detail for the entire engine. Now, those non cast metal brackets with rust are horrible. Car is going back to the dealer next Wednesday to do the full valeting that I did not get on collection (they "forgot" but after showing my face repeatedly at their reception I finally got a set date). They also promised to replace the boot scuff plate and one of side panel protectors that are coming off. Will speak with them about this corrosions. They are still being good and I want to keep a good relationship. Hope they consider customers as individuals with potential to come back or recommend them to others. To be very honest, I will be happy to sort the esthetical bits out, but after such bad experience with the previous car, what I really expect is the reliability of the brand to avoid nasty surprises. Don't have time or money for that, as most of everyone else. Will do a follow up after this valeting and bits to be done.

No problems at all to jet wash your hybrids, actually they are safer than standard petrol or diesel cars. These electronics are properly water sealed and you can not do any damage. All you need to do is to stick a towel into air intake then make sure you have remove it before you start the car. I jet wash my hybrid once or twice a year and I have stopped a lots of rust and dirt accumulation. Under bonnet all nice and clean and pleasure to do weekly checks and service. 👌

I think it looks fine underneath 👍 From the picture I can't really tell what the rod is, but will have look under my vehicle. I wouldn't recommend jet washing the engine bay, especially a hybrid. I would remove the rust/tarnish with some kind of spray on wipe off product. Have a look online or in Halfords, it's amazing what you can buy for this type of task. Even try the good old WD40 first 👍

If you have never heard it that is enough for me to go back to the dealer and have it checked. Thanks for the info. I can't tell from the handbook whether my model should have kick to unlock but there again the handbook doesn't cover the SOS button in the overhead switch set either. Had to Google that to find out about the new laws on SOS devices.

The car comes with a 5-year warranty when first registered and the balance of that warranty would then have passed onto you as the new owner, you can then pay yearly to continue the warranty should you wish to do so. As for the rust, that's not normal and by looking at that rod holding nothing on the exhaust indicates that the vehicle has been neglected by the dealer in the servicing of the vehicle and should have failed the MOT Japanese cars in general do rust, but that normally only kicks in at 10 years and not before.

the conditions of your RAV4 are quite similar to my 2017 Auris Hybrid, even though the mileage of my car is much lower than yours, and if you remove the wheels, you will see more rust behind, it's impossible to keep the car rust free if the car was parked outside and was driven in wet weather🙂

Hello , i am thinking of starting a project car ... My thoughts are to modify my Toyota avensis gen 2 ( 2004 ) and make it my dream car Exterior i my make only some aerodynamic mods like a small back wing and a nail at the top of the back window also a full adjustable under body . I love avensis face so i don't want to change it Inside i want to make a new panel that remains me more like the supra so i can install lots of switches and bottons that like help me jump from efficiency to speed I am thinking of changing the suspension to a better one for my car and having an engine swap ( line 6 ) maybe a turbo system , injection , pumps , filters , exhaust , coolers , brain , transmission and brakes My goal is to make a car that can be very efficient and with the push of a botton very fast . What do you think? Is it doable ? Is there anyone who has tried turning and modifying a avensis ? Do you have any advice or ideas ? Plz i would love talking about that

i did edit my post, rear diff or transfer case fluid ? More than likely never been touched

As it only does it when it's hot, i would suggest a fluid check/change It's not a hybrid is it ? (e-four) if its the standard petrol it will be the K112 or K112F with a transfer case you need to find where the noise is coming from, it could be the front or rear diff or transfer case even a bad shaft - its the same as the Rav4 edit. 2014 will be All Wheel Drive (AWD) iirc it may default to on every time you get in the car - i would think it's either old or cheap tires or something in the rear (coupling, diff, diff mounts or axle(s)

Hi all......further endorsement in today's Daily Mail motoring feature by Ray Massey echoing my support for Toyota reliability. Included in the list of key equipment being sent to Ukraine by the UK to bolster the nations defence is quite telling. Large shipment of modified Toyota Land Cruisers (TLC's) are on the way. These rugged 4x4s in the showrooms continue to be the off-roader of choice favoured by regular & irregular militias throughout the world. More than 10 million TLC's have been sold across 170 countries over eight decades.......my case rest. Barry Wright, Lancashire.

Check and see if the plug is not taped to the door loom - 3 wires for the mirror adjust and 2 for the heated mirrors can you take a pic of the plug on the new mirror edit. it's a 5 pin plug

Thanks for all your advice is really is appreciated, the car most probably has always done it I just haven’t noticed it before and now can’t unhear it lol.

Wish I could help. My part-ex was going that route, but it's now going to a friend, which is beneficial to both of us. I advised Toyota online this *may* happen and they said "fine" if it did (just pay total cost), so I expect I may still get contacted about a part-ex inspection. That contact possibly may be in the next week(s) or so (I hope!). I'll advise when it happens, so you have an idea of timings. The new vehicle allegedly arrived @ the Derbyshire hub yesterday after Zeebrugge, Grimsby etc. There's obvious things like present your part-ex as well as you can. I expect they will try to knock the part-ex value down, but you never know. I know for example, increased offers on inspection, from people like WBAC, do happen sometimes. When I looked at this, the Toyota valuation was about 10% better than WBAC for me. Remember, while used car prices are possibly not as high as they were, I believe trade-in should still really be giving a little bit extra than the "norm". If of interest: The VIN has been visible in the myToyota account data since the vehicle left the factory. The VIN is recognised by the Toyota tecdoc site: https://www.toyota-tech.eu/euro5search/VehicleSpecifications and allegedly everything it should have, is fitted! 😀 The "estimatedDeliveryToFinalDestination" improved a little from 27/05/22 to 24/05/22. Since allegedly arriving in Derbyshire (Burnaston), that date now shows as "1900-01-01"! This tracking information is very useful, but I often get the feeling the underlying system needed more testing! 😀 Just gone through the 26 week mark from order. The original estimate was 34 weeks delivery.

I took out the dealer two year service plan £25 per month, total £600 over the two years. But while booking the first service I found that the first service is £190 and the second service is £340 which equals £530 🤔 Think I've been ripped off ☹️

Reasonably low mileage, one previous owner ? interested to see it underneath. Keep us posted 👍

Only had my Corolla 2 months after 5 yrs with a T25 Avensis but the first things I noticed that were not apparent in the Avensis were wind noise at speed and very thin and dry leather on the steering wheel giving it a cheap feel. I found that spraying silicone lubricant onto a cloth and coating both door surround and door seals has plumped out the seals to an extent that I no longer hear the irritating wind noise at speed due to a better seal and another positive is that it should enable the seals to last longer and with less natural deterioration. The steering wheel has benefited from a good coating of leather conditioner which has improved the feel no end and it now has a more expensive and plusher feel to it.

That is very impressive! No need to go for 1.8l for you Bob with the economy you are getting!

If you aren’t part-exing try ‘drive the deal’ - they often have the biggest discounts

No annoying reversing beep beep sound when selecting reverse like there was in the Auris. Only beeps when sensor detects close proximity to an object

Sounds like a duff regulator (4 diodes in a pack) and the battery is back feeding the alternator effectively turning it in to a motor - the buzz is the rotor trying to turn it could possibly pull 5-40 amps

One of my main suppliers has had two price increases this year, beginning of January and this Monday coming. Averaging a 12.35% increase. Their nearest competitor have had three this year totalling an average 15%. I also remember the dark days - literally (3 day week). Also 17% interest having just moved from a flat to a 3 bed detached house (and MIRAS ending). I'm sure we could all write our own books.

Scottish Gas arrived yesterday morning as arranged. He checked the wiring at and around the Matte box - indeed all of the installation within the house and everything found to be correct. He then checked the charger itself and declared it to be faulty. Whether it caused the power cut or the power cut caused its failure we will never know. He installed a new unit and was keen to make sure it did indeed charge the car - it wouldn't! But only because the car was fully charged. Having run it a few minutes with some consumers on the battery showed a slight discharge which was enough for the wall charger to commence charging. Happy days again 😀.

My included Toyota cover expired recently and they wanted £70+ to renew. I did a bit of digging and instead went with Start Rescue who seem to be highly rated. £25.56 including recovery and home assist. Couldn't see any point in paying £45 more.

Thanks for that, I'm not sure I have enough hands to carry out all of that so should be safe enough in the mean time..😇

My 2021 model is also badged on the rear door as AWD-i

Yes, you do get a membership card and you can carry over any remaining months from a previous car. I got a new car in January and my roadside assistance didn’t expire until September. It now expires September 2023. You just need to phone them

Good move, if you like the CH-R you will like the RAV4 ! I'm on my 5th hybrid, 2nd RAV4 and can honestly say that they get better with each generation.

Sensible advice given already. Just to add, there is a clue on the registration document - check the towing under O - O.1 braked will show 1650 if AWD but only 800 if 2WD. F.1 should be 2215 if AWD. The Type and Variant fields might offer more but I haven't a clue how to decode them !!

The different layouts of the 'mode' selector buttons adjacent to the gear selector - AWD on the left; FWD on the right:

It won't have a prop shaft but you could grovel underneath to spot the rear motor. But easier ... on the infotainment system, press Menu > Info and select the energy monitor. When driving along the AWD will show the energy flows to and from the rear motor ... 😉

I wanted to start a thread about those little things that are cool about the RAV. So here's one: When the satnav is on and a route is live it creates a Quick Message you can send like this: I am driving and will arrive in approximately 34 minutes. I think this is cool.