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A couple of photos as it's parked right at the end of the drive - to protect from delivery guy ! ! Got 3 cars now so not much room until the Yeti finds a new home !

Thanks for help. I tried all the suggestions, and whilst they didnt work, they lead me to look in the right place - my phone had disabled the central Google app itself! I think I have turned on a feature to disable apps that I haven't used in a long time, and because everything has Google integrated, I've not had a reason to open the main Google app itself. Or at least that's my working theory. Much obliged 👍

So I've jock'd my way out of the ticket situation. It seems until September this year you can change the day of an advance ticket and just pay any price difference. I'll be going down on Monday for the car!! Pics to follow in another thread.

I have a chap who does it. He's based at my local dealer and he does it annually 🙂

I'm waiting for the Full English Breakfast edition ...

Keep it and sell the wheel kit when you sell the car. And use the compressor for occasional tyre top-ups.

I doubt it too, never seen it on ANY Hybrid/Plug in. The oil is difficult to see on most RAV's, especially very clean new ish oil. You also cannot "feel" the viscosity of the oil, all modern oils in Hybrid are like water, I would not rely on the feel of it. Change the oil and replace it with the correct quantity, put in just below the amount needed, check the stick and top up to the line. Then keep your eye on it over time, I really cannot see there would be petrol in the oil

Keep in mind there’s polish and wax. Polish is a fine abrasive that restores the shine. It shouldn’t need doing frequently. Wax is the water repellent to protect the paint. I recommend Collinite 476 which is extremely durable and easy to use. Autoglym Super Resin Polish is a good compromise because it’s a wax with a fine abrasive combined.

Had the first service done today 6400mls and one year old. All tyres shown as 7mm on service checksheet. They have been rotated but not sure which way. I've checked the pressures and all set at 35psi. I dropped them back to 34psi for the moment.

I do valet my car once a week including undercarriage spray with a lots of water for the obvious reason particularly in the winter - salt salt salt. Once or twice a year I do engine bay wash too for the same reasons as above. Exterior hand polish (wax) once or twice a year too. My car is old and there is not much left to protect, it’s full of dings and dots, paint pealing, and some deeper scratches however I like clean cars and for maintenance reasons. I recently bought this pre wash snow foam and works great, https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B072VFY5MN?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_AYQGHJQRTGQSD4RE7YKR it gives the car plastic trims a new life like appearance and smells great. Then I use hand wash bucket with mitt and this shampoo https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MA75TZC?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_6TC7MBZ7Z0QTK79RNVQ6 Results are great. In winter I also use tfr mixed with water on the wheels , arches and half the doors and engine bay. Car plan orange is currently what I have non acidic. For wax some members recommended this one : https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002P3ZO2E?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_M3DN7JZR8TJ4G8YC7WJH I haven’t bought yet as I still have some stuff left over my valeter years 😉👍 I also used clay bar set from these brand https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001MPSTK0?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_1SP9379BHM3HHD8FQXEV Perhaps you may not need on a new car, but the rest of the stuff are good, tested by me. 👌👍

14 mile (each way) commute twice per day and with a little splash of electricity between both journeys I usually don't need the ICE. Once a week a 35 mile journey out and the same back - so the ICE kicks in on the return.

Interesting what Firecycle has been saying. I'd imagine that anything very much below the recommended setting would be a potential problem as under-inflated tyres are clearly going to affect a car's handling. Indeed, by the time that they look like they may need a bit of air by visual inspection alone, they are likely to be getting down towards just 10-15psi. Going a bit above would seem to be less of an issue, as the handbook usually specifies a higher pressure for carrying heavy loads or for travelling at sustained high speeds. I used to tow heavy loads, so I generally used to keep my pressures on the upper setting, even when not towing. As long as the pressures aren't materially above the upper pressure recommendation, can this really be seen to be an issue? If it can, please let us know!!!

Not a silly question at all. Sometimes the wrong grease is used (eg copper grease) which dries out leaving a non-lubricated surface. Brakes experience some very high temperatures and not all lubes are designed to operate under these conditions. Some high pressure cleaners can just blast away any lube. But it can also be if the pads don't float properly or if surfaces are not properly cleaned and smoothed prior to install. Regreasing brakes should really be a part of an annual service, imho

For my money i would be looking else where speaker wise and go with 2 way component speakers - tweeter in the dash and mids/bass in the door - i think this is the factory setup on the later Mk2's Have a look at the Alpine S series, Focal Auditor or Pioneer TS-D65 I usually go with rainbow speakers, but they are unobtainium ATM

Good question - they are manufactured by Pioneer, with any audio equipment you want to look for the RMS or true power not Max Power (this is the theoretical maximum the IC can output for less than 10 seconds) don't think i have seen the actual specs, TBH i haven't been looking Pioneer AVH-7148zc it will drive 2 way components with an inline crossover and uprated rears you may want to run a power pack style amp eg. https://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/amplifiers/pioneer-gm-d1004-4-channel-car-amp-with-tvc-concept-and-input-sensor-400w-gm-d1004 OR https://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alpine-ktp-445a-head-unit-power-pack-amplifier https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/SingleView/ktp-445a To save cutting up the factor wiring, i suggest a connects2 CT10TY01 best upgrade sound wise is sound deadening the doors

It's the old fashioned way of doing it, other vehicle manufacturers removed the on / off button & green status light but Toyota are just keeping it old school 😂

I'm so glad I ordered the dynamic model last August, I've had the car since mid January and love it. In my opinion the interior is so much better than the GR sport option on offer today, for once I feel like a winner.

The CRV in question was a 2 litre SE version, so it have the sun roof, rear camera, parking sensors, heated electric leather seats, privacy glass, cornering headlights. I traded it in for a ex demonstration Aygo at the local Toyota dealership trade in price was £11,500 so i had to Pay £495 for the Aygo. I was sad to see the CRV go, it was a great vehicle to own but our lifestyle had changed over the six or more years we had it.

Auto mirror dimming. Help stops glare from headlights behind you. The mirror glass will automatically darken when light hits the sensor on the mirror.

That was our experience with the dealer as well. No helpful guidance just a lecture from the service receptionist.

I’ve posted this before but will post it again here.. TS in Obsidian Blue. Lovely!

Looking nice Tony. I'll be well pleased if mine looks the same in 12 years

my car failed due to a fault code (possibly caused by 12 v battery disconnection), was re checked after 500 miles and then the test passed.

The function just isn't in the software for European Corolla so there is nothing to change. There are Chinese OBD devices available that stay connected to the port that can lock the doors as you drive away - that's if you wanna trust your vehicle electrical system to some cheap Chinese electronics obtained from the internet.

these can be polished using a green kitchen scourer if there are any uneven areas. Then use the right grease - i use Red Rubber Grease, which as its name suggests, is red! A small tin lasts ages, you only really need a small amount

Correct. Something that a lot of people get confused about. There are also sealants. I'm current using Poorboy's EXP which although it isn't hugely durable does have really nice beading and sheeting properties. If you're in to that sort of thing.. it's also really easy to use. I've had a can of Colly 476 for quite a number of years, it was one of the first products I bought. I'm not sure if it's seen the light of day since we moved to our current house in 2014.

I just came back from my local dealer and sat in Corolla gr sport and love it, I think grabs my attention the most and this beautiful dark blue colour and black roof on the hatchback really suit my taste 👌🚙 I did try to close the bonnet Porsche way and I didn’t work, therefore Toyota way should be, slam it down from 20 -30cm should work best 👍 The car is very nice, and hatchback with 2.0 engine is a killer TS even better but more expensive. Space on rear seats is limited but set with my driver seat seems ok to me, nut most importantly the rear seats lie completely flat , it’s like a small estate 👍 Here some photos.

Hi All, Fixed now. I watched a YT vid on how to remove the radio, re-plugged all the connectors at the rear and it's working like a good 'un. If it fails again Stivino I might be in touch! Thanks for your replies chaps :-)

just had the car serviced (10,209 miles & 7 1/2 months old). Tried to set up charging by MyT app but an error shows - dealer has not removed repair mode, this will automatically reset after 24 hours. Great. Had a look at the Visual Health Check supplied and apparently my N/S/F tyre is a Yokohama VR whilst all the others are Bridgestone HR - even the spare! I don't think so. Fronts reading an even 6.5mm and the rears an even 7mm. The spare 3mm. It also states - add 3 notes and they are only found on the invoice which are: 1: Remove rear window sticker (it was right at the top and I didn't even see it for months - hate any stickers over the rear window elements). 2: Carried out recall X4422 3: Carried out ECU software update They couldn't hear the wind noise - not surprised as it was a wet day. I had checked progress during the day via the MyT app and the latest info. showed that it moved 86yds at 8:30 (and still does - no updates since). It had in fact covered 7 miles since I dropped it off - it obviously goes off-piste when in repair mode so no opportunity to find out how they used it. The journey history does show a cascading series of 'E's on the display which I take it to be part of the the Hybrid Health Check process. The invoice suggest that the hourly rate is £61.28 + vat (but FOC as I have a service plan).

Or an application with remote reading of the car battery voltage. Such as the Pandora protection I use. It obtains data directly from CANBUS.

Thanks, Tony, most useful to know

every journalist goes crazy on VAG vehicles, I rent a lot (not a small amount of international travel) and find VAG cars to be the absolute worst whether in manual form or dsg, the manuals cars have to be kept in a very specific rev range to accelarate and 1st gear can at random times at too high revs begin jumping randomly dependent on how steep the road is and who knows what) whilst the DSG is the worst thing to drive in town or to park, the cart is guaratneed to jump around during stop start driving. Plus the seats are usually pretty uncomfortable, their electronic assist systems are quite unimpressive and theyre not even that economical. the nly good point is that theyre rarely underpowered like a citroen 301 but they donbt usually have such amaing power either so... whenever I reach a rental counter I chat up the rep and trhen ask what cars they have in stock and theyre usually very happy to let me choose.

I've got a vast array of stuff. Some of which I've paid silly money for. I mainly either use SRP or Blackhole as unlike some of the other products I have they're easy to use. No faffing just apply, work in and buff off. I've also got some proper machine polishes but as I'm lazy my DA hasn't been out in years, so if I can deal with any marks by hand I do.

I'm very familiar with the Conwy area having lived in Llandudno for several years and had relatives there for a couple of decades. I've just come back from a week spent based in Denbigh, visiting golf courses all over North Wales. I only had to push my 1.8 into the PWR on a few occasions. Mine will climb Rhuallt hill at 60 mph without going into the PWR zone. I've owned a 1.8 Excel for over three years and it's unusual to have to push the car into the PWR zone. Almost the only time it happens is when I have a reason to get a shift on and that just isn't very often. I can keep up with the rest of the traffic without going into PWR. As others say - you just need to moderate your right foot. A heavy right foot consumes fuel but in most cases it doesn't make much difference to the journey time 😉

I have stuck with E5 for the Aygo for two main reasons, firstly the car uses so little petrol the saving from using E10 instead of E5 is minimal. Secondly we do not use the car that often so that the fuel sits in the tank absorbing water, more so with E10 than E5.

My Yaris Cross arrived at Derby 1 week ago and I am so so lucky that the dealer is 30 min from Toyota Derby, so car arrived at dealer today.. Collecting next Wednesday.. at last. Ordered Sept 2021

Very difficult to diagnose these things as it could be a whole manner of different causes and it's often trial and error. It does sound like it's phone settings rather than multimedia settings though but it sounds like multiple different issues Here's a few general things you could try..... There is a lot of posts on the internet about messages not being read out. This is supposed fixed. May sure you have the latest version of AA and messages app installed. Find the AA app on the phone, long press and select app info. In Storage, clear the Cache. In permissions, check access is granted to everything (especially microphone). Either go into the app, or go to settings and search for Android Auto. Make sure use OK Google is enabled. Check other preferences are as you want them while you're there. If all else fails, either uninstall the app and connect to the car to reinitiate the set up, or forget the connection to your car and do the same (the former should give a cleaner install but might not be possible depending on your phone and whether the app is there as a standalone or embedded in the background) One of the workarounds suggested for the read out of messages was to check the text to speech settings in settings->accessibility has the Google engine enabled. You could try that also.

testing the same measurement system Based on this test, I decided to buy https://youtu.be/FeN8ULJnIas I have the same values for the CTEK charger before charging 12.1V - 12.3V charging time up to 100% 4-5 hours I left the last charging "float mode" longer - 30 hours pandora showed a stable voltage of 13.9 V (at an outdoor temperature of 10 ° C) I have already inserted the conversion table here The 12V car battery has been in much better condition since then I recommend not turning off CTEK after reaching 100% it is better to leave it in "floating mode" for a while.

Excellent. I have never had a car this small (engine and size), just wondering what grade of fuel to use, obviously not supermarket fuel, but would you use normal unleaded or premium unleaded ?

I have two cheap cigarette lighter voltmeters; bought at different times and from different sellers, but both through Aliexpress. They have a simple digital display, so not like your one. On one occasion, I was trying them 'back to back' as I was getting readings that were a little unexpected on several cars. I had the use of an adjustable, table-top DC power supply, so attached them to that. What I found was that their displayed reading on a slowly rising voltage differed by as much as 0.15v over that displayed on a slowly lowering voltage. This was on both plug-in meters, and confirmed with a standalone conventional DVM at the same time. Whilst this a very small mis-measurement, and not on the same type of meter as yours, with the level of accuracy you are working with I thought this was worth mentioning as a possible small variable. Similarly to you, on my daughter's Auris hybrid, after a having a variety of long drives in daylight, a CTEK MX5 charger was used on the 12v battery, just as an experiment (that charger is quite new to me). It took 4 hours to report that it had finished charging. Pre-charging, the battery sat at 12.2 volts. But, the battery is 9 years old, so maybe that is not representative! Although that battery has never failed to start the car.

Collecting the Auto X on Friday after the Toyota Approved Body Shop has taken days to resolve the Transit paint chip. Frustration is almost over but, trust me, I will inspect the car thoroughly before purchase. Tel

May 14, 2022 car open at 09:05 - 12.5V the ride starts at 09:15 total drive 200 km = more than 4 hours drive (2 hours there, 2 hours back, the rest of the parking time) when driving on the road, the battery charged 12.9V about 99% of the time return at 18:20, car closed at 18:45 measured - 12.5V -------------------------------------------------- May 15, 2022 car open at 05:30 - 12.3V = 60% battery capacity this day without driving - solar panel connection -------------------------------------------------- - result: after more than 4 hours of driving without lights a day, the battery is charged so that the next morning it has a capacity of 60% =============================== May 16 car open at 06:20 - 12.6V disconnecting the solar panel drive 60 minutes in the morning with lights - when driving 14.4V evening return 45 minutes with lights - when driving 14.2V return 21:00, car closed at 21:20 measured 12.7V -------------------------------------------------- ---------------------- May 17, 2022 car open at 05:45 - 12.5V = 90% of battery capacity -------------------------------------------------- ---------------------- result: after 1 hour and 45 minutes of driving with lights per day, the battery is charged so that the next morning it has a capacity of 90% =================================== paradox: 20W solar panel charges the car battery from 60% to 90% in 1 day, driving without lights charges the car battery from 90% to 60% in 1 day

All above is sound advice. Main thing is oil changes at 10k miles or once per year whichever is first. Apart from that the car will be fine. It's a Toyota. Change the oil and it will last longer than you will.

Getting excited now - collecting 11am tomorrow

There are class android touchscreen headunits that can get for these cars just make sure u get a newer one with dab+ great radios .think pioneer dose really good ones

There is only 1 reverse light, if you want 2 you will have to wire it your self if you just had a blanking plate it the light its self, but it has the connector it's just not wire up as it's meant for a different market - LHD and RHD have the rear fog light and reverse light swapped to opposite sides IIRC reverse light on the left makes it a RHD car, so you're possibly in Australia 2 reasons for only one reverse light, cost savings, they don't have to produce LHD and RHD lights and only 1 type of wiring loom, the lights are also designed that way to make the rear look symmetrical and more ascetically pleasing

In Europe, the Corolla only has one reversing light.

Are you comparing costs before and after the massive fuel price hike tho'? I could say my Mk1 Yaris only cost me £30 for >600miles vs the ~£40ish I'm paying for >400 miles in the Mk4, but that would be blatantly unfair since the diesel was less than £1/L back then vs the £1.60/L I'm paying now! I will say you can't drive the hybrids as hard as a diesel and still get high mpg's tho - Diesels just have a much higher thermal efficiency than petrol and that will always be the case. With the hybrids, you really need to leverage the wasted energy captured by the battery to get the higher mpgs; If you can drive the car in the Eco/Eco+ zone as much as possible that helps - If you push into the Power zone of the gauge the car assumes you want to get a move on and don't care about fuel economy and it will just throw fuel at the engine like it doesn't matter.

You're doing really well mpg-wise; My colleague doesn't get anywhere near your mpg normally, but he drives like I do and lives at the bottom of a hill so his first journey of the day is dragging a poor cold engine up a long steepish hill! (He was amazed when he first took it on a holiday trip and got 60mpg - He didn't believe me when I told him it was capable of doing that ) As for the korean cars, yeah they have come a looong way compared to what they were - Gotta respect that. I think they still have the most efficient EV drive trains, and considering they were up against Tesla for that, who had a massive head start, that's pretty impressive! I honestly consider them Toyota's biggest up-coming rivals at the moment, esp. since the germans have been dropping the ball so hard on the reliability stakes lately. It's a good thing Toyota have upped their game so much lately as the koreans were getting close to eating their lunch, as it were! But the koreans are totally different to the chinese - I personally would still try to avoid buying a Chinese vehicle; I try not to support countries with such draconian policies - I still haven't forgotten about what they're doing to Hong Kong, even tho' the press has gotten bored of reporting on it (Probably because most of them have been arrested...!). At least the Koreans are a more reasonable people... (Well, the south koreans anyway!) My fear is they do what they always do - Come in and undercut everyone with low quality garbage that then puts the higher-quality domestic manufacturers out of business, then suddenly we're dependent on them for another sector of manufacturing. They already make so much stuff the world depends on - If they did what Russia is doing, none of the sanctioning strategies could be used against them. If this has taught us anything it's that we need to diversify to avoid getting held hostage!

If it fails should the fault not be covered by the extended hybrid warranty?