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Something that is missing from this thread is a bit of balance. How about his? There is a place for both the 1.8, AND the 2.0. I own the latter, but have experienced both. The 1.8 is ‘adequate’ and especially suitable for the more sedate driver, who isn’t bothered about performance, and would rather save a few £, and take a more relaxed pace. That’s fine, and probably a majority of Toyota hybrid owners. The 2.0 is has much more torque, and surprising performance - contrary to some beliefs, that is relevant, especially if you drive on the motorway with a few passengers or cargo. The 2.0 is more effortless - you don’t have to dig as deep into the pedal travel, and can accelerate with traffic without even breaching the eco zone, and without the slightest movement on the Rev counter. It circumvents much of the CVT traits that frustrate people. It has a bigger battery, and motor than the 1.8. The bigger battery (alongside dynamic force tech) I’m sure, is why it’s so good on fuel. That’s a big list of benefits over the 1.8. the key here is BOTH engines are relevant, and not one size fits all.

The manufacturer cannot void a warranty because you do an oil change, what they can do is void the warranty if what you did was a poor job and resulted in damage caused by doing something wrong. Lets say you put a Chinese oil filter on it and recycled oil in the engine (plenty of companies sell that type of shizzle) then that is not Toyota's fault, and then they could void a claim if they so desired. Nobody will be interested in voiding a warranty by fitting a quality and oil filter change, fleet companies do this all the time

I have had many 1.8, and a couple of 2.0, I consider my MPG as quite good, I get 74 MPG in a 1.8 in the summer, and best I could do in a 2.0 was 58, real world figures for my type of driving (I don't drive like little Miss Daisy)

Why is it slower? My 1.8 can still reach the legal speed limits. And it only gets (slightly) noisy if the nut behind the wheel floors the accelerator - something which is rarely ever needed. The impact on most journey times of more power is minimal to non-existent. Who cares if you save one minute off a typical commute? And in rush hour you'd probably struggle to do that consistently due to the vagaries of congestion at one or both ends. You can make better progress through skill and finesse. Understanding how the traffic is flowing around you and timing your approaches to junctions. In my experience those are skills that the 'power users' tend to lack. Probably because the extra power on tap makes them lazy. But to fair 68.9mpg from a 2.0 version is very, very good. I'd be intrigued to know how you've managed that given that it would be uncommonly high even for a 1.8. The only time I've seen that or better was on very long journeys at a steady 60mph. Still - however you did achieve it we can be pretty certain that if you'd driven a 1.8 the same way on the same journey it would likely return a figure in the mid 70s 😉

I've tried it a few times in the past 4 weeks that i've had my car and i love it. I have to force myself to go back to normal. My advice, don't try it.. 😂

You can service your own car, HOWEVER, proving it has been done correctly is a challenge. You must have documented evidence and be competent to do it. You won't be able to do HHC's, im my opinion, for the man in the street it's not worth it unless you are prepared to keep records

There is no requirement to do oil changes between services. The grade is 0W 16, it takes 3.9 Litres, if you are going to buy your own, stick to known brands to be safe. Why do you need an additional oil change?

There's a bit of crossed wires going on here - Some of you (CPN, Star, CG) are talking about the Mk4 - It DOES have rear seat pressure sensors for sure (If I don't open the back doors and just throw my bag into the back seats DING DING DING *%$$£#&* DING) flash and mike et al were talking about the Mk3, which apparently just guesses based on whether the rear doors were opened or not

The 2.0 is faster in the sense that it has better acceleration, not that it can go faster (Well, it probably can go faster, just not legally ). I can understand the draw tho' as I imagine it's like the difference in characteristics between the Mk3 and Mk4 Yaris hybrids. The Mk3 is okay, but it just doesn't haul-ass on demand in the very satisfying way the Mk4 does. The 2.0 would require a lot more discipline to get high MPGs than the 1.8 because all that extra torque on tap is very hard to resist; My average mpgs have been getting worse even tho it's getting warmer because I can't resist booking it all the time (I'm driving in Eco mode so why is it so easy to put the gauge into the PWR zone?? ) (Then again it might be the weird fuels I've been putting in lately as I play hunt-the-cheapest-petrol-station instead of just filling up at the same place I always do...!)

I think you might be disappointed after getting the check done because they’re looking for whether it works or not, not how it works. These systems are not infallible and it’s impossible for them to take every possibility into account. What they do succeed at is reacting to circumstances that thousands of people a year fail to do because they’re not paying proper attention or otherwise distracted and it ends with someone getting hurt. It’s not that our humble Yaris’s have a cheap and cheerful system either. I was driving a brand new 2022 top spec Lexus recently when a car approached quite abruptly from a side road and the Lexus welded itself to the road. It wasn’t a nice comfy stop, it was a retina detaching affair. It surprised me and my daughter who was in the car with me but if that car hadn’t stopped, it would have avoided a collision. I remember thinking “glad there was nobody behind” but then we always look for reasons why it’s a bad idea and not that it did exactly what it was designed to do. Going back to our humble Yaris, it has a heater inside that enclosure behind the mirror to avoid the glass in there steaming up. A lot of high end cars don’t.

As Kingo said as long as you use the recommended oils and filters then you can service the car yourself and if ever an issue arose regarding the lubrication system then Toyota can see that a Toyota oil filter has been used and if required can lab test the oil to check it conforms to their specification. As long as the oil filter is not hanging off and the work has been done competently then you are o.k. I am a competent home mechanic and intend to keep this car for 10 years or more until electric cars are cheaper and better catered for for charging etc. As such I did a 1500 mile oil change to eliminate any chance of recirculation of swarf particles which are produced by any new engine and hopefully picked up by the oil filter and retained there until the first service. I am a bit "old school" and remember the need to do a 1000 mile oil change with new cars when engineering tolerances were nowhere near as good as they are today. So I am just being cautious and for the sake of £55 quid in parts giving myself peace of mind and hopefully greater longevity with the engine. Access to the oil filter and sump plug is very easy and for those interested the factory fitted oil filter for the 2.0L car is 90915-CA004, but I believe you can also use 90915-YZZM3 which I think is the Lexus equivalent used in this engine. Oil required is Toyota genuine 0W16 and it takes 4.3L with a filter change.

Which is as Toyota intend ... 😉 With the OEM kit (in a 4.4) the wheel goes outside down and the ancillary components sit in the resulting well. Equally obviously, the Road Hero wheel comes in it's own bag which precludes the use of the retaining bolt. (You can obviously take it out of the bag!). And in that case it will just sit in the well and you would need just a little 'packing' to prevent it from sliding around. You really don't need the retaining bolt until you actually roll the car - and then you have rather a lot of other problems ... 🙂

I'm definitely not manly enough for a Bullworker. A shakeweight is more my thing. Thanks for the info about the oil!

When the 2 litre hybrid can still return journey figures like these without trying, why would anyone want the slower & more noisy 1.8 hybrid?

You can set it to repeat if you set the schedule in the car MID rather than the app. But, I too have the HV and prefer to use that to control the schedule.

Thank you 👍 You are right, they do sometimes and I am happy to help mostly with small jobs or free advice. 👌

This is the oil level at which real harm is done and unfortunately only detailed knowledge of the engine internals can pin it down. It used to be quite easy to see the smoke from burning oil coming out of the exhaust at higher engine speeds but modern systems burn it off in the catalytic converters or at least vaporize it.

When I was an apprentice motor mechanic in the 1960s, there was a problem with excessive oil consumption with Morris (BMC) 1800 engines. The company spent time and money modifying the pistons and piston rings etc. with little or no improvement. . Then someone at the factory changed the dip stick min & max markings, which if my memory serves me right, (at my age no guarantee of that) reduced the overall capacity by 2 pints, instantly curing the problem. Apparently the connecting rods were dipping into the oil, frothing it up and forcing it by the piston rings.

Same with my Excel. The display I have is on the dash and shows three sets of concentric bars drawn around the front and rear sides of the vehicle that indicate proximity.

The bonnet and paint do not need any heat protection, I bet it makes minimal change to any noise level as well

Posted in another thread. With my 2008 DCAT I always bought recommended tyres from Toyota. A year ago, after tyre research for my Porsche, I read various reviews, got some quotes and went for Michelin Pilot Sports. The next week on the motorway I felt something was missing. Eventually it occurred to me; noise. I can now talk normally in the car at 75mph, not with raised voice. The last trip across Spain to Andorra was a pleasure. Don’t underestimate the annoyance, and fatigue, from road noise. NB the car never sees off-road.

Your car has been fitted with accessory parking sensors these do not integrate into the displays in any way nor are they the intelligent type like factory integrated sensors, the difference in operation is the rears are triggered in by the reverse light signal no reverse light no sensor operation. i would have to check the trigger for front sensors.

Renewed my roadside assistance in April this year and despite the email confirming that I would receive new membership cards within 10 to 14 days I received nothing. Similar thing to last year when I changed my car and promised cards with new date never materialised. Contacted roadside assistance on the online form and a week later received this update: "We are no longer sending out Roadside Assistance cards for Toyota Roadside Assistance policies in an effort to reduce our environmental impact and carbon footprint. In a breakdown situation we will not ask to see proof of membership on a valid Roadside Assistance card." Thought this might just be useful to someone else expecting them.

It all depends on how much control you have over your right foot. If you can ask for consistent rate of acceleration across each driving mode, the MPG should be the same. The driving modes ONLY change the throttle pedal mapping (as well as steering weight, which doesn’t affect consumption)

Electric showers have an insanely high power requirement, typically requiring a 40A fuse to themselves, so if you have 2 of them, and it's not uncommon to have 60A main supply in older houses, I can see where you run into a problem. That being said, I think you can apply to your DNO to get upgraded to 100A supply for free in most cases, as long as the local supply cabling can tolerate it. A 7.2kw wall charger needs a 32A fuse, tho many can be set up to draw 16A only, if that is preferred due to individual wiring/load management. If the installer is doing things by the book, they are supposed to apply to your DNO to ensure cabling ok, and sign off that your house can tolerate the overall load (as @Lawnmowerman says). You're right however that most quality models incorporate some form of load management, but this also can be different. Eg I think the hive charger that many of us got free from Toyota via British Gas will simply switch itself off if detects overall load at a designated level (set as part of the install), whereas my other wallbox (ohme home pro) will ramp itself down, not off, to dynamically balance the load (again, based on a preset level during install)

The writing was on the wall for the card; The last card I have is just a cheap flimsy piece of the thinnest card. In fact it's more like thick paper than card! I just hope the service doesn't decline in a similar fashion - I just read the renewal documents and I'm a bit concerned about some of the clauses, like they won't come out for the same problem if it happens again within a month - What, so if you have 2 punctures in a month they won't rescue you the second time? That just doesn't seem right...!

I tended to refuel at a quarter tank purely because of paranoia; It's one of the reason I'm so averse to current EVs (The maximum range of most of them isn't much better than the quarter-tank range of all the cars I've owned apart from the Fiesta ) As for the OP, the EV people call their range meters the GOM - Guess-o-meter - It's just the car guessing how much range you have so don't rely on it as it's not very accurate, esp. if you have wildly changing driving styles like me!

It's ok to have the Road Hero facing down (without the bag) but that means you need to buffer the alloy wheel from touching the floor of the boot to avoid noise/vibration, rather than having the rubber tyre against the floor. I also think that the original Toyota alloy is not as concave as the Road Hero and may not present the same issue. Agree about retaining bolt only necessary in extreme situations but the the fact is, there is always provision for one.

each to their own Joe.

Thanks guys. Rattling started around five days ago, just as I was leaving for an 800 mile round trip. Sounded light and around the exhaust, in front of rear right wheel, but I wasn't dressed for crawling around underneath, so left it, and worried, until I got back. Checked online and found this forum, and indeed the heat shield (aluminium) had simply worn/corroded through around the fixing bolt and washer, and dropped down one end. Removed the bolt (10mm socket) after spraying WD40 and a few in/out manoeuvres to ease the thread (not spraying the exhaust!), and cut a large aluminium washer from an old scrap lightweight shelf, drilled a 6mm hole, bolted it on and no more rattle. No facility to get under the car, so did this from one side at road level, but was able to get a phone/camera under, and there isn't another corroded-through bolt, so fingers crossed that's it for a few years.

Just checked the backend and my estimated delivery has moved from 01/07/22 to 30/05/22 that’s quite a jump. Happy days.

i'm talking about the warranty, if you do that type of service would invalidate the warranty

Thanks to both of you. Clearly a different config on mine then. I thought I'd get the same, poor assumption that was..

They are a good bit of kit, I was about to buy one myself until I saw the genuine Toyota one come up (unused) complete with all the tools / inserts etc for £150 . I hope I never need to use it, but it’s there if I do. A can of goo is no good if you have a shredded tyre.

The only recent-ish car I've had with a low washer fluid level warning was a Skoda Octavia, and that particular spec only had it because it was also fitted with headlamp washers. The headlamp washers were great in winter but they used up washer fluid like it was going out of fashion.

Gotcha. Great to know this too. I like estates too but it will be me and my partner sharing the car and for her it would be too big heh.

I suspect that the owner is on occasions starting the car to move it a few inches, then they are switching off. As a result the complete ignition cycle is interrupted, thus leaving an excess of fuel which is flooding the engine. Do not do it Mr or Mrs owner. The can be started by flooring the accelerator whilst turning the ignition on.

If I remember correctly, there are two types of parking sensors for the Corolla: those that are part of the Simple Intelligent Parking Assist system (factory installed, cannot be ordered as an extra but has to be included with the trim) and basic parking sensors (available to order as an extra, can also be installed later by the dealer).

Just remove the existing foam that holds the TRK, put spare wheel in recess, secure with retaining bolt, replace boot floor. I was fortunate enough to get the genuine Toyota Jack, tools and foam insert plus the polystyrene “cushion” but some foam pads have the same effect so all fits nice and neat, I still carry the TRK as well.

I 'finessed' (took large chunks out!) of the moulded polystyrene with my cordless Makita multi-tool (others are available) 😀. Th floor is not quite flush but almost - after a couple of hours 'finessing' I deemed it acceptable!

Yeah it's the EU mandated pedestrian acoustic warning sound. I hardly notice it now, then again I can hardly hear it from inside the vehicle.

I think it's normal; My Yaris ones are always on - If I'm stationary or parked up and e.g. someone walks close to front or back of the car, the proximity alarms start beeping like when you're parking. However, if the obstruction isn't moving and you're also stationary, it fades out after a few seconds, although still displays where the obstruction is on the MFD. It also shows "Press OK to temporarily mute"

Same here, my last car was a Ford Edge, very quiet with Ford's noise cancelling technology which is very effective. The RAV4 is not terrible, but I'm aware of it all the time.

I remember cars I had in the 90’s and naughties had a warning in the cluster when the washer fluid was low. And I’m not talking about premium cars - just normal rep mobiles. It looks like these have been removed from more recent cars - another cost cutting exercise I assume. Not great when a working washer is a legal requirement.

I did some more investigating, where most of the wind noise comes from in my corolla, while driving it. I used some phone app, that acts as a stethoscope and amplify sound from microphone and you can listen it trough headphones. While I was moving the phone next to the door seals, the wind noise was not that bad, it looks like door seals are doing it's job. Also windows itself were not the worst offender. Noise was higher, but was not the worst. I measured my windows thickness, and the front is 4mm and the rear is 3.2mm. I have the non acoustic front windows. According to some thread on hybridlife (cant find it right now, but users measured glass thicknesses of different cars) it is actually not that bad. For example, e-golf, that is much quieter car in comparison, has 4.1mm front and 3.3mm rear, which is only 0.1 mm difference to my corolla. Corolla with the acoustic windows was also measured, and the front, laminated, were 4.5mm, and the rear the same, at 3.2mm. The worst was actual windows and doors seal / interface. It was bay far the loudest part that I found in the vicinity of my head. My first idea is, if the seals were designed for 4.5mm windows, they would probably not seal as good, if windows are 4mm. Don't know if the seal is the same and if performance would degrade with thinner windows, but this is possibility. I than checked windows-doors interface on other cars, and majority of all other cars in the similar price range has additional seal in this place. here is a bad drawing of how it looks. Orange is the seal that corolla (and all other) cars have, and red is additional seal that is probably in place to reduce wind noise. Maybe this is the reason for additional wind noise? I was thinking about two solutions, but was not able to find seals that look like that: 1. weird L shaped seal: 2. tear drop shaped seal: If anybody has any idea what seal could be DIYed, post your idea here. 😄

No matter what car you drive at your mileage, petrol should not be mixing with oil

Just bear this in mind when changing tyre pressures from those the manufacturer reccommends. If you have a serious accident the first thing the police do is check your tyre pressues as part of the evidence gathering process as to how the accident happened and any potential prosecution case. How do I know this? I spent 30 years in the Fire Service and have seen it more times than i care to mention and the second reason, one of my best mates has just retired after 30 years in the Police and has spent the last 20 as a traffic cop, he was also the SIO (senior investigating officer) and coeverd 3 counties for serious and fatal accident investigation. His simple message "stick to what the manufacturer reccomends and not what you think you know, or you could very well end up in the dock"

Have a look at the attached re adjusting your car seat, which may help: Physiomed_Sitting_Guide_-_Driving_Digital.pdf

I find the mk7 and 7.5 golfs were far superior to the mk8 in every regard Leon mk3 was same gen as the mk7 golfs

This link isn't really answering your question, but these Czech bods do take a good photo of the stripped out interior. Google translate will help, but you probably can work it out without. https://www.ahifi.cz/montaze/?filter[]=76881&filter[]=76940&price_interval_from=2987&price_interval_to=257260&order=0&sorting=0 I'm sure that there are very reasonable noise reduction benefits to be had without going to their 'full-on' cover-everything technique. Note that one of the Corollas isn't a hybrid, and in the inside of the door shown, it has one very small grey square of soundproofing evident. The hybrid shown has two small squares. So, twice as much! I did have a look inside all the doors etc. of our Auris to see what effort had been made to quieten the car. The sound insulation does not seem any more comprehensive in the new Corolla.